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Hurl Vreeland

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About Hurl Vreeland

  • Birthday 03/17/1964

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    hvknives@hotmail.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oxford,Ohio
  • Interests
    My Family. Manipulating materials to my liking. Hunting, fishing, etc

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  1. This is what I was looking for: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.mhi-inc.com/IMAGES/coil012.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mhi-inc.com/PG5/CoilQuote.htm&usg=__Fibk6eUNQ7nPa_xlfLcL7L8v2Yo=&h=229&w=320&sz=14&hl=en&start=131&um=1&tbnid=gGOoZVqipqTVAM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=118&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcoiled%2Bheater%2Belements%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DN%26start%3D126%26um%3D1 Rigid, just like an oven and like an oven if metal does contact the element no shorting. No sagging either and not as fragile as the wire element. I wondered if you could heat an element out of an old oven and remold it around an mandrel. Thanks for all the replies!!
  2. I feel it would work I just wanted to know if anyone has made this before. I was going to wrap the element around a 4" mandrel about a foot long. Wrap about 3 to 4" of Kaowool around that and sheath it with a piece of pipe. I would be well within the temp range of the elements. I don't see why it wouldnt work for a salt tank assuming the sheathing for the elements was rated for it. I would have the element coming out of the salt a bit though so you wouldnt get any bubbles. The salt stuff is out of my realm though so its all a guess. I just wanted something to use at work that is low profile and I could just plug it in and treat my blades.
  3. I was thinking of using these http://www.mcmaster.com/#3540k35/=53ss87 (scroll down to the bendable elements) and molding a cork screw type shape and insulating with kaowool on the OD of the elements. It can go as high as 1700 but I need only 1400 or so. Coupled with a controller this would seem to work nicely. Has anyone used or made someting like this? I would go with a salt bath but it is too much money and time in relation to my limited use.
  4. Another explanantion for the dots may be the cement. As I recall that stuff is gritty and depending on where the larger pieces lay againist the steel can affect the quench rate. I recall this happening with furnace cement. I can't recall the technique but the Japanese did something like that but used iron/steel filings mixed with the clay.
  5. Yeh, Blackboogers. That didnt last too long. More like black fingers now. Years of wrench turning is hell on your fingers. They only come clean competely when I'm on vacation. I've been away a bit so my knife looks kinda old school. I really got into messing with the hamon stuff and got so focused with it I lost the bigger picture. Like making knives. Got to creep slowly....................
  6. waiting and watching......................

  7. I used to visit this forum quite often many years ago. I delved heavily into the Japanese polishing and went way overboard. I burned myself out rapidly in the process and basically quit making knives for a couple years. Fastforward to about 2 weeks ago and I had an old bare blade in my tool box at work that I used to cut packing with (fibrous, impregnated material used to seal pump shafts with). I thought what the hell and finished it in about 2 weeks of 1/2 lunches at work. Cut out the sheath and tooled it a bit and stitched her up. Everything is handmade by me. It's going to be a gift for my Son who is joining the Marines. http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6778/1st12012009copy.jpg The stats are: 1080 steel, selectively hardened at 4 1/2". Elk antler handle and capped with a piece of Snakewood. Nickle Silver for the guard. I'm want to ease back into it and it was kinda cool how the techniques stay with you and you cruise right into it. I also have to say the quality of knives I see here today is amazing. Anyhow, compared to alot of you all my work now seems a bit simple but it is functional. Anyhow, take care all..............
  8. I used to use modeling clay if I got really stuck. If nothing else a nice set of French curves and grid paper works well.
  9. Since I didnt have much interest in the frame of the hydraulic press I will sell and ship the individual parts. As follows: 5" bore 8" travel 3000 psi hydraulic ram. 2 stage 13 gpm 3000 psi pump. 10 gallon tank. Single spool 3000 psi valve with internal relief valve. In line return filter. I can ship UPS in cont. U.S. $500.00 Check Surplus Parts.com you are saving well over $150.00.
  10. I'd love to get an FFL but the documentation isnt my deal. I havent filled out a form in over 20 years. I always went to the Gunshow and traded, sometimes up and sometimes down. With newly elected Congress and House you may want to buy and stock up. I'm sure the Anti's can't wait to renew the Brady bill. My fave's though are 22's and my Enfield. Ammo though is harder to find.
  11. From your video its appears that once you crank the psi up you get a decent roar but I don't like the licking flame (sorry about the description) mixed with the blue cone. You want a nice blue cone that roar's. I still say your forge diameter is too small. You don't have enough volume for the gas to burn. Cut that forge into thirds, cut a burner hole in the middle of one third and try that. I suspect it will work better than what you have now. The insulating value of that stuff your using is very important as well but first fig. out the correct forge volume for your burner. Have you been to Ron Reil's web site? He covers everything you would want to know about venturi burners, design, use, construction, etc.
  12. Your original design will work. No need to get fancy and reinvent the wheel. Your issue is not enough volume inside your forge. All you need is 1500 degrees. I once made a heat treat forge out of "I" beams stacked on a steel table (my burner was a weed killer torch) to treat a short sword and it worked fine. I bet if you just made a square retangular box forge using that material and the I.D. is the size of one of those blocks, it would work fine. You will have a hot spot and you just have to work the blade back and forth. Anyhow think volume, flame development, etc.
  13. Your forge interior is too small. It is burning way to rich. That's why it wasnt getting hot. There is no way you could get an even heat with that forge I.D. and one burner. You basically made a giant burner. I'll bet that was cranking out some CO2. To get an even heat you need volume so fluctuating tempertures are evened out and the gas has a chance to burn evenly and completely. Well maybe a tiny rich to cut on scale. Read up on Don's heat treating drum and you will get the idea. The satanite will fall off or at least some of it. It only needs to be there for an extremely short time. If you try to treat that again make sure you anneal it real well.
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