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Hurl Vreeland

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Everything posted by Hurl Vreeland

  1. This is what I was looking for: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.mhi-inc.com/IMAGES/coil012.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mhi-inc.com/PG5/CoilQuote.htm&usg=__Fibk6eUNQ7nPa_xlfLcL7L8v2Yo=&h=229&w=320&sz=14&hl=en&start=131&um=1&tbnid=gGOoZVqipqTVAM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=118&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcoiled%2Bheater%2Belements%26ndsp%3D21%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DN%26start%3D126%26um%3D1 Rigid, just like an oven and like an oven if metal does contact the element no shorting. No sagging either and not as fragile as the wire element. I wondered if you could heat an element out of an old oven and remold it around an mandrel. Thanks for all the replies!!
  2. I feel it would work I just wanted to know if anyone has made this before. I was going to wrap the element around a 4" mandrel about a foot long. Wrap about 3 to 4" of Kaowool around that and sheath it with a piece of pipe. I would be well within the temp range of the elements. I don't see why it wouldnt work for a salt tank assuming the sheathing for the elements was rated for it. I would have the element coming out of the salt a bit though so you wouldnt get any bubbles. The salt stuff is out of my realm though so its all a guess. I just wanted something to use at work that is low profile and I could just plug it in and treat my blades.
  3. I was thinking of using these http://www.mcmaster.com/#3540k35/=53ss87 (scroll down to the bendable elements) and molding a cork screw type shape and insulating with kaowool on the OD of the elements. It can go as high as 1700 but I need only 1400 or so. Coupled with a controller this would seem to work nicely. Has anyone used or made someting like this? I would go with a salt bath but it is too much money and time in relation to my limited use.
  4. Another explanantion for the dots may be the cement. As I recall that stuff is gritty and depending on where the larger pieces lay againist the steel can affect the quench rate. I recall this happening with furnace cement. I can't recall the technique but the Japanese did something like that but used iron/steel filings mixed with the clay.
  5. Yeh, Blackboogers. That didnt last too long. More like black fingers now. Years of wrench turning is hell on your fingers. They only come clean competely when I'm on vacation. I've been away a bit so my knife looks kinda old school. I really got into messing with the hamon stuff and got so focused with it I lost the bigger picture. Like making knives. Got to creep slowly....................
  6. waiting and watching......................

  7. I used to visit this forum quite often many years ago. I delved heavily into the Japanese polishing and went way overboard. I burned myself out rapidly in the process and basically quit making knives for a couple years. Fastforward to about 2 weeks ago and I had an old bare blade in my tool box at work that I used to cut packing with (fibrous, impregnated material used to seal pump shafts with). I thought what the hell and finished it in about 2 weeks of 1/2 lunches at work. Cut out the sheath and tooled it a bit and stitched her up. Everything is handmade by me. It's going to be a gift for my Son who is joining the Marines. http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6778/1st12012009copy.jpg The stats are: 1080 steel, selectively hardened at 4 1/2". Elk antler handle and capped with a piece of Snakewood. Nickle Silver for the guard. I'm want to ease back into it and it was kinda cool how the techniques stay with you and you cruise right into it. I also have to say the quality of knives I see here today is amazing. Anyhow, compared to alot of you all my work now seems a bit simple but it is functional. Anyhow, take care all..............
  8. I used to use modeling clay if I got really stuck. If nothing else a nice set of French curves and grid paper works well.
  9. Since I didnt have much interest in the frame of the hydraulic press I will sell and ship the individual parts. As follows: 5" bore 8" travel 3000 psi hydraulic ram. 2 stage 13 gpm 3000 psi pump. 10 gallon tank. Single spool 3000 psi valve with internal relief valve. In line return filter. I can ship UPS in cont. U.S. $500.00 Check Surplus Parts.com you are saving well over $150.00.
  10. I'd love to get an FFL but the documentation isnt my deal. I havent filled out a form in over 20 years. I always went to the Gunshow and traded, sometimes up and sometimes down. With newly elected Congress and House you may want to buy and stock up. I'm sure the Anti's can't wait to renew the Brady bill. My fave's though are 22's and my Enfield. Ammo though is harder to find.
  11. From your video its appears that once you crank the psi up you get a decent roar but I don't like the licking flame (sorry about the description) mixed with the blue cone. You want a nice blue cone that roar's. I still say your forge diameter is too small. You don't have enough volume for the gas to burn. Cut that forge into thirds, cut a burner hole in the middle of one third and try that. I suspect it will work better than what you have now. The insulating value of that stuff your using is very important as well but first fig. out the correct forge volume for your burner. Have you been to Ron Reil's web site? He covers everything you would want to know about venturi burners, design, use, construction, etc.
  12. Your original design will work. No need to get fancy and reinvent the wheel. Your issue is not enough volume inside your forge. All you need is 1500 degrees. I once made a heat treat forge out of "I" beams stacked on a steel table (my burner was a weed killer torch) to treat a short sword and it worked fine. I bet if you just made a square retangular box forge using that material and the I.D. is the size of one of those blocks, it would work fine. You will have a hot spot and you just have to work the blade back and forth. Anyhow think volume, flame development, etc.
  13. Your forge interior is too small. It is burning way to rich. That's why it wasnt getting hot. There is no way you could get an even heat with that forge I.D. and one burner. You basically made a giant burner. I'll bet that was cranking out some CO2. To get an even heat you need volume so fluctuating tempertures are evened out and the gas has a chance to burn evenly and completely. Well maybe a tiny rich to cut on scale. Read up on Don's heat treating drum and you will get the idea. The satanite will fall off or at least some of it. It only needs to be there for an extremely short time. If you try to treat that again make sure you anneal it real well.
  14. All the above is sold. Thanks to all who replied.
  15. I replied to the email you asked me to send to.
  16. To clarify, I would rather make a package deal or if anyone isnt interested than I will entertain selling individual items in a week or so. I have a large, full propane bottle to get rid of and if the forges and burners are sold its more diffcult to get rid of it. Also, I cannot ship the grinder. I will meet someone halfway perhaps but I would like it to be picked up. Thanks, Hurl
  17. Due to my financial difficulties I am selling my grinder. KMG Flat Grinder. It has a GE VFD, the VFD accepts 220 single phase and puts out 220 3 phase. This is very useful as 3 phase motors are alot cheaper than single as well as the electric savings (draws 8 amps). The motor is 2 hp. I have an extra motor as well. The whole unit has about 30 hrs of run time. Includes about 50 belts most of which are new. The platen is hard chromed, a file wont nick it so it is very hard and wont wear. Stand is included. I also have about 50 or so pounds of 1080 stell in widths from 1" to 1 1/4 and 1/4 thick. 2 forges with 2 Reil style burners. The burners arent your average Reil burners as I machined the Bell out of a 2" coupling (slots) and the burner nipple is 316 ss. One unit is complete with reg. and gauge. 1 bottle of propane (I don't know the gallon but the bottle is about 5' tall) which is full. 1 Omron thermocouple. A bunch of files/woods/bone,etc. I listed all the misc, stuff in case someone would a package deal. I also don't want to ship anything and would prefer pick up but I will go halfway depending on the distance. Asking price for the grinder is $900.00 total (belts included plus new extra 2 hp motor). Send me email for the package price. Thanks for the replies in advance.
  18. I think you have 2 aspects here. You can shape with stones and polish with stones. Unless your shooting for temperlines or "hamon" polishing with stones may be overkill. While it will polish you would be wasting expensive materials. Shaping with stones is another matter. You can refine and really control convex shapes on a blade of any size. Depending on the stone it can remove material rather quickly and yet have a beautiful convex shape with an extremely sharp edge at the same time. I think if you bought a Binsui and a Kaisei stone (middle range shaping stones) and set up a stand you could work it out on your own. I apologize for the Japanese names but the names are correct for the grit stone you want. Just try to be over the work. The polishing however is a very time consuming and expensive venture. If you really want to play with it I suggest getting some Hazuya and skip the Jizuya. You will also need some Nugui. Its easy to make, basically just ground iron slag and thick mineral oil. When I mean ground I mean superfine. I use a flat piece of steel and a hammerhead. like a morter and pestle. Take your blade up to 2000 grit and then use the Hazuya. I've found the Jizuya is too hard and easily scraches the blade. Obviously there is alot more to polishing then I am saying here but if you surf the subject on the web you will find tons of info. Try the shaping part. You can get the stones easily and they do last a longtime if set up properly (use the ends and not the middle). Hope theis helps.
  19. I thought about making my own KMG. I work at a shop that has a complete machine shop and I have full access. After buying the aluminum for the pulleys I dropped the project. The money spent for a quality product far outweighed the time involved in completing the grinder. Plus Columbus isnt that far from Cincinnati.
  20. This weekend I'll send you some detailed pictures of the tracking device. It is a very simple device but effective. The bar I was talking about is the tooling arm or arm that supports the grinding wheel or platen if it were a flat grinder.
  21. That is a very ambitious project. You have more courage than I did and I have complete access to a full machine shop. I was going to copy the KMG fully and Rob was kind enough to post pictures on how the tracking wheels were made or at least the parts thereof. I decided in the end I would just buy one, I got a flat grinder though. Go with 2 hp if you can, 3200 rpm. Are you going to put a locking arm on the wheel support? Looks good so far. I do alot of fabrication where I work and layout is no sweat as long as everything is square in your cut and measurement. A sliding square and a long "T" square is a big help. Always use a center punch and start your first hole with your smallest bit and work up from there. Be careful with your taps its really gonna suck if you break one in a hole. Get 3 flute taps whenever you can, the 4 flute break real easy. Good luck and measure twice!!!!
  22. Everybody is right to a degree. What is important is how far in the mouth of the pipe you go. You want the tip (I use a .035) about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches into the 3/4 pipe. You want the maximum velocity you can get. The length of the Tweeco tip is irrevelant. Tap the Tweeco tip into a 1/8 inch pipe and adjust accordingly. As long as you can get a flame to hold you can tweak everything from there, just tweak one thing at time so you can go back if it doesnt work. If you want fancy get a tapered tip or the one's at Home Depot will work just fine. Mine is a homebuilt and it will hold a flame from 2 psi and roar at 35 psi. Once you grasp the principle there easy to use.
  23. Good job!! Looks good!! I think you have the best compromise if you want a powered hammer. The costs to run a compressor that would be effective for a hammer would be large. I'll bet that if you compared the costs to run your hammer vs. an air hammer you will be ahead.
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