Al Massey

You should easily be able to get 1/4" spring stock of appropriate width from any truck shop brand-new. Most stock is 5160, some is 6150, in this type of application the difference is theoretical rather than practical.

Usually langets were either forge-welded or brazed to the guard material.

If I ever make one it's going to be comfortable seated level. After several knee surgeries in the service of Her Majesty and a new knee that sets off security alarms, I ain't kneeling for anything bar Sofia Vergara.

330 layers of 1084/15N20, hardened and tempered to about 52-53 RC best estimate, blade is 30" long. Based on a funeral brass effigy.

I second you'd be better with a sheet metal shell with an innswool (high temperature ceramic insulation) layer(s) on the inside, coated with satanite or some other refractory.

You could try a die grinder with a piece of metal bent at one end and hoseclamped to it for a guide. Do it before HT and finish with files.

My 1796 HC sword scabbard has enough room for a liner and I had little trouble making one and placing it inside. Same deal with the small pieces in the mouth seeming to keep the point from jamming into the liner. I can see traces of brass on the scabbard which is in slightly darkened but otherwise very good condition. I'm assuming then that these were sheet iron or steel, formed around a mandrel and brazed. I want to make one for a 1796 LC I'm putting a guard and grip on but until my sheet metal skills improve I'll probably stick to wood and leather.

Other way is after the basic forging and prior to HT, curve it laterally around the horn of the anvil and then clamp it in a vise when cool and cut it in with a half-round file and then straighten out the blade. You should have a nice nail nick tapering in width towards each end, no problem.

...Does anyone have more info on this? I know he was around my age. Complicated man, I considered him a friend, gave me lots of useful info wrt press building and forgewelding. Sad to see people disappearing, have to get used to it now that I'm over 60.

Just had my right knee replaced a little over a week ago. Legally I cannot drive until at least mid-Febuary. How long should I stay out of the shop for?

Perfect example of simple is good.

I used green glass as a vanadium source BUT- I also used borax flux. Started cracking early, I suspect graphite formation as you said.

Someone asked me the other day if someone, who because of injury, body size or other reasons could not sit low to the ground in the Japanese manner couldn't do "workarounds" so as not to be in agony, which tends in my experience to also detract from the quality of finished work. (I have upcoming major knee surgery and the remark was "good thing you forge western style swords!) I know that there are guys forging Japanese-style swords in traditional styles, with hamon and using home-made steels but working in typical Western forge setups. I honest to gods can't see why someone who can't kneel like that couldn't "jig up" a setup where they could do stone polishing in a more user-friendly position. Not trying to start a flamewar here, but I really can't see an issue if the traditional stones and steps are used by someone with the training if it matters a damn whether one or both legs were folded up when they did it or if they were sitting on a comfy chair. Hell, sitting here writing this I've been able to picture a rig.

Would a ribbon burner work in a crucible melting furnace setup? Cheers, Al