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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Al Massey

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Al Massey last won the day on March 14 2016

Al Massey had the most liked content!

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    Nova Scotia, Canada
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    Swords of all kinds, damascus steel (all kinds), fencing, redheads, fiddle music both listening and playing, good Chinese food, pretty Chinese waitresses, Martial arts flicks so bad they're funny, redheads, really bad horror flicks, home-brewed beer and wine, and Futurama. (did I mention redheads?)

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  1. What grit are you sanding these to before buffing? I use L6/1084 or 15N20/1080 and have had no problem with getting a well-defined pattern. Sand to a 400 or 600 grit and then buff to a high finish, before or after heat treat, then after the heat treat, clean things up before etching. I recommend ferric chloride diluted about 2-1 with distilled water. Make sure the blade is degreased before etching. That being said, 5-10 minutes should be plenty of time to bring things up.
  2. buffing compound

    A buffer is a tool, and a good one. It is dangerous- but it doesn't have to be dangerous to you if you know what you're doing. A lot of people have good tips- my personal addition is let the wheel, and the compound, do the work- not pressure.
  3. testing hardness

    Save up for a set of files rather than go for the guesswork route. They seem expensive- how much is your time worth? How much is good quality wasted steel going to run you? I picked up a set nearly 20 years ago and never regretted the cost.
  4. Tanto forged from Gun Barrel

    If I recall, the "Mantetsu" swords were produced with a very similar method. I would think gun barrel steel would be on the low side for carbon, maybe about 40 points?
  5. Issues with a round file

    It actually looks like you were working at too high a temperature as the steel at the end looks burned.
  6. If you don't mind, what is the name of your pottery supply place in PA? Thanks.
  7. Spring steel won't skate a file

    One of the ways I check for a successful hardening is the post-quench appearance. The black scale basically either pops off completely because of the crystalline change or is easily wiped off with a rag, anywhere the blade has been hardened. If the steel hasn't hardened, it is still sticking.
  8. Full flat bevel vs Partial bevel

    Don't knock hollow-grinds too much, remember many swords were made with various hollow-ground cross sections.
  9. Should I harden already hard steel?

    Don't quench at any point regardless of heat glow if you want the steel soft. Let things cool down either in a dying fire (no air blast ) or a bed of warm ashes.
  10. Heat Treating the Harbor Freight Anvil??

    My late wife once said to me "If you ever stop looking, then I'll worry. It'll be time to get you to a doctor."
  11. Should I harden already hard steel?

    A good source for blade steel is leaf springs. It's commonly used for tools and blades worldwide, most of the kukhri knives made in Nepal are made from this, and the steel is fairly easy to harden and temper.
  12. Heat Treating the Harbor Freight Anvil??

    Well, some good guys tried to give you the benefit of their experience and knowledge. Fortunately there's free health care your neck of the woods.
  13. Secets of the Shining Knight NOVA

    It is watchable on Youtube.
  14. Dealing with tapering of sword blades

    Ok, the termnology- is the bottom scale thickness in cm and the y axis distance from guard? Which scale?