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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Al Massey

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Al Massey last won the day on March 14 2016

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    http://armbladesmith.webplus.net
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
  • Interests
    Swords of all kinds, damascus steel (all kinds), fencing, redheads, fiddle music both listening and playing, good Chinese food, pretty Chinese waitresses, Martial arts flicks so bad they're funny, redheads, really bad horror flicks, home-brewed beer and wine, and Futurama. (did I mention redheads?)

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  1. Issues with a round file

    It actually looks like you were working at too high a temperature as the steel at the end looks burned.
  2. If you don't mind, what is the name of your pottery supply place in PA? Thanks.
  3. Spring steel won't skate a file

    One of the ways I check for a successful hardening is the post-quench appearance. The black scale basically either pops off completely because of the crystalline change or is easily wiped off with a rag, anywhere the blade has been hardened. If the steel hasn't hardened, it is still sticking.
  4. Full flat bevel vs Partial bevel

    Don't knock hollow-grinds too much, remember many swords were made with various hollow-ground cross sections.
  5. Should I harden already hard steel?

    Don't quench at any point regardless of heat glow if you want the steel soft. Let things cool down either in a dying fire (no air blast ) or a bed of warm ashes.
  6. Heat Treating the Harbor Freight Anvil??

    My late wife once said to me "If you ever stop looking, then I'll worry. It'll be time to get you to a doctor."
  7. Should I harden already hard steel?

    A good source for blade steel is leaf springs. It's commonly used for tools and blades worldwide, most of the kukhri knives made in Nepal are made from this, and the steel is fairly easy to harden and temper.
  8. Heat Treating the Harbor Freight Anvil??

    Well, some good guys tried to give you the benefit of their experience and knowledge. Fortunately there's free health care your neck of the woods.
  9. Secets of the Shining Knight NOVA

    It is watchable on Youtube.
  10. Dealing with tapering of sword blades

    Ok, the termnology- is the bottom scale thickness in cm and the y axis distance from guard? Which scale?
  11. Burned metal

    You've got tons of material left to work with. Forge-weld a tang extension and rework the tang.
  12. Dealing with tapering of sword blades

    Here's some stats from a Napoleonic heavy cavalry sword, 1796 pattern, I acquired last year. Note the extreme degree of thickness taper: Weight w/scabbard 2.035 kg or 4.49 lbs. Weight sword alone 1.093 kg or 2.41 lbs (2 lbs 6.5 oz.) Blade length (spear point mod)- 34.5 ". (There is a small chip at the tip- without the chip I estimate it would've been 34.625") Overall (unsheathed)- 39.5". Inner grip length about 4.25". Thickness at guard- 8.35 mm or 0.329" "" PoB- 5.1mm or 0.200" "" midpoint- 4.25 mm or 0.167" "" end of fuller (about 6.5" from tip) - 2.1 mm or 0.083" Width at guard- 39.5 mm or 1.55" "" at midpoint of blade- 35 mm or 1.38" "" at end of fuller- 35 mm. Not a lot of profile taper but the thickness 6" from the tip is barely a quarter of what the blade at the guard is.
  13. Throwing knife temper and material

    Another choice is 1045, otherwise known as PGS or shafting steel. Cheap and tough.
  14. Peening a tang to a pommel

    If I'm going to peen down a tang end, I forge-weld a section of mild to the tang. Historically, this was SOP for swords for a long time.
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