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Found 13 results

  1. So I gave this a try: San Mai of 1095 core and 410SS jacket. Starting pieces are 3/16" thick and either 5-1/2" or 6" long by 1-1/2" wide I then used the TIG welder to fuse all the edges closed. And welded the billet to a handle. After forge-welding in the press, I ground the edges clean (or sort of clean) Intermediate forging pic of tapering the end to a point. I didn't get many photos during the forging process, but eventually, I went to grinding and HT. Here are three blades at 320 grit finish. The secret lies hidden.
  2. I did a site search on Google foor this topic and only found one discussion that didn't yield much, so I'm asking again. I recently started using 1095 in my Damascus and I have this multi-bar pattern all welded up and ready to accordion cut. I normalized 3X and set the bar to anneal. The bar measures 1-1/2" x 7/8" x 8" Into the Paragon: Ramp up to 1450 @ 250 degrees per hour, hold for 1.5 hours Ramp down to 1200 @ 100 degrees per hour hold for 1 hour Turn off oven. This would not cut on the bandsaw (at least not very easily, it killed two blades before cutting 6 lines each about 3/4" long) A
  3. Have a quick question. Is it possible to get a hamon besides using clay? Ive never messed with hamons at all yet but seems like i have a faint one going on in my recent blade. its a damascus chefs knife comprised of 1095,15N20 and nickel sheet. any ideas? Heres a picture and ill try and take a better one to show you what I'm seeing. along the edge is a faint shadow. Thanks
  4. walnut scales, copper pins wth high test epoxy, 1095 blade steel with wedge grind, kept it slightly rustic so that it wuld have charicter, full tang, and first attempt at a sellable knife.
  5. Well Its been a while, but I am back in Thunder Bay Ontario and back in the shop. I have finished a half dozen blades or so, and decided to work on something for myself. I also decided to take some pictures to remember the process. I bit the bullet and ordered some 1095 and 15n20 steel to do a Pattern welded blade. I have done low layer count blades in the past and also worked with steel cable, but this was to start with a 21 layer count, and hopefully end up some where around 200 including a 1095 core. If you have any questions or general tips for me, feel free to drop a comment.
  6. Ok I've used 1095 O1 and 1080 for blades but it's been hard to come by but I have a ready supply of 440C stainless can I use this during stock removal or is it useless
  7. Hi all, I've been lurking here for a while, but wanted to share what your collective knowledge helped me achieve. This is my first real attempt at forging a knife. It is my take on a yanagi ba style knife. It is made from 1095 steel differentially quenched in brine for 3 seconds and then into canola oil. I ultimately decided that I liked the hamon better without etching it so I polished it back out. You can almost see it in one of the pics. There are a lot of flaws in the knife, but the pics hide them pretty well. I learned a lot from this one and it won't be my last. Here ar
  8. I'm almost done with my new knife. All I have left is the sharpening. Till I get that done, here's some pics of the process starting with the blade with clay on. The clay I use is Rutland's Furnace Cement. Helpful criticism very welcome. Also, after this knife is complete, I'm going to make a Japanese style straight razor. But the only belt sander I have is the Harbor Freight 1 x 30. So any tips on how to go about doing a hollow grind on one side would be appreciated.
  9. Last night I got home from work at about 5:30 and went straight to the forge. After about 4.5 hours of forging, I then annealed the blade in sand over night. This morning I got up good and early and began grinding. I've only got the rough grinding done, but I thought I'd post a pics as I go. As always, your criticism is welcome, And I appreciate your time! -=James Fuller=-
  10. Kitchen knife I made for the wife. 1095 with paper micarta handle. Let me know what you guys think.
  11. Kitchen knife I made for the wife with paper micarta handle.
  12. Howdy folks, I am happy to announce that I finally have my new shop up and running as good as opening day at Disney Land. So far, in the last month, I have had more failures than in the whole of my knife making experience. I started using new steels (1095 and L6) and experimenting with them to find a good heat treat has been actually a lot of fun. I now have a grand total of 5 broken blades! 1095 blade after the quench. A total of six cracks are visible I had it stuck in my mind after the first broken blade that no matter what, I was going to quench my 1095 in water. I
  13. SAM_6068 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6069 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6070 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6072 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6075 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6078 by djs1984, on Flickr This Knife is one of our first two narrow tang knives, this is our first attempt at a blind tang. We used 1095, Cocobolo Handle and brass for the guard and 3/16 pin. This knife was clay coated and differentially heat treated. A high polish, and Acid etched to give it a more rust Resistant finish, and bring out the Nice activity in the hamon. ---------------------------------Knife Details-----
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