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New maker, here. I am working on an order that is a 52100 12 inch long, 3/16 inch thick Bowie styled blade. I do alot of my research and studying on youtube (it's just how I learn best) watching videos made by reputable knife makers (i.e. Jason Knight, Kyle Royer, Fire Creek Forge, etc.) And their processes of working with certain types of steel and so on. I saw that on one of the videos I had studied for 52100 steel, the maker heat treated, cryo treated and then tempered. My reason for posting this, is to obtain a detailed proper description on the steps taken to complete this process. I use a homemade coal forge that gets more than hot enough to attain fairly controllable heat treat temps for doing my own heat treatments (I will soon be upgrading my entire setup to an actual professional level very soon, I know that my described setup isn't really ideal). The cryogenic treatment was achieved with dry ice and ethanol and I would like to use this method to acquire a few extra points of hardness in this 52100 knife and give my customer a super strong blade. If this is the wrong place to post this, I apologize. Please let me know where to move it to or where to go to read about this specific process, if that is indeed the case. Thanks!!

Hey guys! Was finally able to finish another knife and a video of the process! https://youtu.be/SX1Nr2pbgWA Hand forged the blade out of- 52100 1" stock using my gas forge. Tried to forge down as close to the final shape as possible to minimize grinding, but some profiling was needed... Heat treated it using a furnace since this steel doest take overheating very kindly. Used a homemade micarta spacer and hard wood for the handle. Decided to go for an aluminum inlay for the handle pin drilling and used damascus steel for the pin (I bought this, didn't make it). Really liked the way it turned out, but let me know what you guys think, ideas and improvements for the next ones! Forged out of 52100 1" round stock: Finished forging: After profiling: Going into the quench: After tempering (and brainstorming on handle shape): Bevels ground to 150 grit and handle wood ready: Ready for glue up! Shaping the handle: Finished knife: Much more detailed take on the finish knife on the video. Check it out!

Inspired from the work of Mastersmith Jerry Fisk I tryed something new for me.. Differentially water quench 5160 and 52100 hand forged blades.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEsVS5kaHtU All went perfect ! Just after quench 20180129_194319 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr20180129_194401 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr After 1500 grit and a 1 minute in pcb.. 20180131_212748 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr20180131_212913 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr20180131_213005 by theodore Anastoulis, on Flickr Thank you all

Forged from 52100, 5 1/8" blade with 3/4" smooth ricasso, sheep horn spacers and buffalo horn handle, bronze guard. 9 7/8" overall length. Heavy leather pouch sheath, etched blade finish. I take check, money order, or PayPal. If paying by check or money order I will ship once the check clears the bank. If using PayPal I will ship next business day, or same day if post office is still open. I ship priority mail and include tracking number. Please email for more pictures or questions. William Courtney SOLD

Hello again I have recently ventured into making kitchen knives, initially because i needed some kitchen cutlery for myself. This is the latest result to come out of the forge, the blade is 205mm long (8") and about 32mm wide (1 1/4") at the widest point, it is also quite thin, around 3,5mm at the thickest, tapering to the point and edge, the blade is flat ground, transitioning to a convex for the last 8mm, these factors lead me to believe it is a carver or sujihiki, but i may very well be wrong, since typology is not my strong point, feel free to educate me if you please! The blade was edge quenched, and after finishing i did a 15 minute etch in ferric chloride, to combat the inevitable oxidation that will occur in the kitchen, this also revealed a simple quench line, and alloy banding of the parts that were left unquenched. The handle is simple, it is maple and bocote, the handle is attached by drilling a 10mm hole partway through the handle block, and then drilling a 6mm hole a bit deeper, to guide the thinner end of the tang, so it is not a sloppy fit. The gaps around the tang at the top are then filled with two tapering hardwood wedges, in this case beech dowel, the wedges are glued to the handle itself with regular woodglue, but are just a friction fit to the tang, this may or may not be a strong enough constrution, that will be proved during testing. But seeing as lots of handmade japanese kitchen cutlery is also just put together with a friction fit, i think this will be allright. Regards Peder Visti

Hello, i just finished these 2 knives. The blades are 52100 and flat ground. The handles are plum and yew, guard piece is brass. Let me know what you think: Peder Visti

This is a little integral that I forged as an impromptu demonstration, years ago, at the Branson Hammer-In. The steel is from a bar of 52100 that Ray Kirk provided along with tremendously helpful advice on how to approach finishing an integral knife. This knife was donated to the "Iron in the Hat" at this years Branson Hammer-In. I ended up sharpening it there and putting the final finish on the sheath. My daughter was kind enough to run down the battery on the cameral so, these pictures from her phone are all I've got. There were some colorful planters and the grasshopper was kind enough to let me set my knife down on the leaf without moving on to greener pastures, at least for the first few pictures. Handle is whitetail deer antler, copper spacer and butt cap, through tang, riveted construction. ~Bruce~