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Found 47 results

  1. Hello again! I have yet to get bored of axemaking, and i am always finding myself coming back to the subject. Here is another one, the construction method is symmetrically wrapped with a medium-carbon edge bit! It started out as a piece of mild steel, with the dimensions 12x35x190mm, and a small piece of ø25 round ck60 forged out to form an edge insert. The handle material is elm, and the axe is hafted from the top like a trade axe. Here it is, as forged and normalized And here it is after grinding, heat treat and polishing. And here it is as hafted. If anybody has any idea on which Petersen typology this might fit under i would be happy to hear about it.( type G maybe?) Best regards Peder Visti
  2. Hi, everyone! There is my latest work, splitting axe. Made from mild steel with 52100 steel blade. Handle material - ash tree. Weight of axe head - 1,5 kg. overall - 2 kg. Thanks for watching!
  3. Selling my tactical tomahawk made by the folks over at Zombie Tools Forge. Bought it for $250 + shipping. Selling for 215 Shipped. Don't want to sell it but I have other expenses. Its absolutely Awesome Here are the Specs Total Length: 16 in (.41m) Head Width: 7.25 in (.18m) Edge Length: 4.25 in (.11m) Steel Width: 0.187 in (4.75mm) Steel Type: 6150 Weight: 2lbs (.91kg) Send me a PM if interested. The owner has a warranty from the workshop
  4. Wrought iron has such a beautiful look. The life and lines of the wrought bring a special dimension to the body of work. This axe represents my first successful wrought iron axe body with a carbon cutting edge. The trick for success was to keep the cross section of the eye very thick. I started out with about 700 grams of weight and ended around 400 but I was able to keep that cross section quite thick. It was still tricky to shape the eye without the wrought crumbling but the wrought I used for this is very good quality. The blade shape is shark inspired, hammer head to be more precise. The cutting edge feels like a shark fin or head protruding out of a sea of wrought iron. It is shaped much like a fin and comes complete with a mouth full of teeth in the underside. It throws like a dream and cuts like sharpened shark teeth. It’s ready to be-head the toughest of fish. I forged this from some of the anchor chain I ordered from Craig Hashimoto. It's some lovely stuff. Holds together well and has some great patterns.
  5. Hello, I made this axe (along many others) and decided it was time i tried myself with an axe mask. Leatherwork is not really my cup of tea, and so i made it as simple as i could, which worked out alright i think! I chose a stud button for the snap, also out of simplicity, i quite like simple stuff! A large tapered welt was needed at the bottom for a good fit. any suggestions for improvements to the next one would be welcome! Peder Visti
  6. How to Forge a Railroad Spike Axe (by thepxsmith) Smash the point into the shaft. Keep smashing. Try to keep it from bending while smashing. When you get to 4”-4.5” you can stop smashing (Your forearms will be super tight and your fingers curled permanently around your hammer by now). Make a slit in the top side. I use a slot punch, usually takes 3-4 heat cycles for me to get it through. Drift the hole out just a wee bit. No need to get crazy here, we will come back and refine this later. Flip it back to the side and hammer the “ears” down a little. This will also open the drift hole more so be subtle. Work the inside over the horn or some other smaller round bar to create the starting indentation for the beard. Continue to heat and work that beard. Use the cross-peen hammer to start fanning out the edge shape. Before the edge is thinned all the way beat that beard down in from the top to curl it inward. Keep the inside shape cleaned up over the horn. Once you have your blade/edge shape 95% finished go back into the eye and spread it the remainder of the way. Clean up the ears and then align the edge over the center using your final drift and a vice. Grind it, sand it, polish and buff to your hearts content. Remember: Whatever you do to one side of the axe you must do to the other. I even keep track of my hammer blows so I know what to replicate on the other side. Keep things aligned as you go. It takes time and patience but keeping it where you want it will help you finish it balanced and symmetrical. Use the proper tongs/tools. I use three different tongs to make mine: Gooseneck V-Bit Tongs Railroad Spike Tongs Bent Long Reach Pliers
  7. Hi there! I am currently working on a slightly different axe, i have always wanted to make some larger axes, and so i thought i would give it a go! The starting material was 50x10x180mm mild steel, the cunstruction method was symmetric wrap with an 80crv2 edge insert! i started by forging the center down to 10x30mm: Then some marking of the poll and cheeks. After this i forged out the cheeks and folded over to get ready to weld the body to itself: then fast forward through a few mistakes (including forgetting to take pictures ) and here i am now: Edge length is right at 125mm (5") and thats about the most that will fit in my kiln. Unfortunately i ended up with a weld flaw right at the eye, i tried to repair it but didn't succeed since at that time the cheeks were so thin i couldn't get a welding heat on the area without burning the eye I will still finish it, and hang it on the wall or something, to remind me of the mistake Any feedback would be appreciated Peder Visti
  8. Hello there! Took the plunge on a different approach to axe making today! I recently bought James Austins dvd on how to forge an asymetric axe head, and wanted to explore this method myself. However, i was not exactly thrilled about forging down such massive stock which it requires! So as a compromise i decided to try a symmetric wrap instead, this allowed me to use smaller stock, since the material is effectively doubled on itself! Starting material was 10 x 35 x 205 mild steel flat, with a bit of ck60 running all the way through the weld! The axe weighs 450 grams, and the cutting edge is 70mm (2 3/4") Here the axe is as forged, the mild steel forged much easier than the medium carbon core, and so i had to take a fair bit of material off to expose the seam: Here the axe is ground: I etched the edges quickly to see the welds (sort of): And a picture with the starting material: Overall i am happy with it, the welding went very well, and i will definitely do more this way! It was also faster to forge than the axes i slit and drift! Feedback would be greatly appreciated! Best regards Peder Visti
  9. today i had the day off, and i had decided to have a go at another axe, it started out as a piece of mild steel, 20x40x100 mm, and a piece of ck60 for the cutting edge. The body was slit and drifted, this time with a new shield style drift, that i am really starting to like, it is a lot more elegant than my old one! These pictures are as forged, i will get it ground tomorrow: The axe looks enormous in this picture, but i just have a very small anvil! I also tried out a new makers mark stamp i made, it is quite simple, but i like it! I really like the shield shaped eye on this one! Best regards Peder visti
  10. I started this axe head about two years ago as an exercise in shallow relief and inlay. (I posted some WIP photos at that time but they seemed to have disappeared into the nether regions of this forum.) Last week a client visited me at home and he saw the axe head. The next day he called me and asked me to finish it for him. I had a bit of clean-up left to do on some of the carving, or so I thought. More than a year of practising carving since I last worked on this axe has gone by and I was horrified at all the mistakes that suddenly became visible. I managed to fix the obvious ones and left the rest for posterity. The head is copper, the blade is wrought iron. The fitting of the two is akin to a jigsaw puzzle. I did some silver wire inlay to hide the places where the joint went off kilter. Questions and comments welcome.
  11. 30 piercing saw blades, a lot of cursing and a lot of work remaining: The edge on this one is O1 and nickel. The blade was supposed to be mild steel, turned out I used some "HSLA" (High strength low alloy) instead, so a minute of sharpening for every five minutes of carving. I will post pictures whenever I have made some visible progress on these.
  12. I made a few different axes ...
  13. Hello to all of you. I am new to this forum and to bladesmithing. I'm a 24 year old man from Norway, and is an educated mechanic. As the title said "One hobby lead to another", and here is why. At the very first day of this year I was out swinging my metal detector when I came across a real Viking sword. Which turned out to be parts of the goods of a viking grave. (Archaeologists did the excavation) And I have to say, that feeling of holding that pice of iron in your hands. Then realizing it is a sword, a weapon of fear that quite possibly have killed men more then a thousand years ago. And also when holding the sword play with the thought of that the last person that had it in his hand was a Viking. Then, about 4 months later I discovered another grave! This time from the period before the viking age, Merovingian age. (if that is what it is called in English?) This time I realized it was a grave before pulling any artefacts out of the ground, The grave contained a sword, spearhead, axe, scythes, arrowheads, and more. I also a few days later found a viking age spearhed So now I really want to learn the art of bladesmithing to hopefully be able to replicate my finds. I do not yet have any tools or furnace, so thet will have to be built and bought first. Thank you for leting me into this forum
  14. Hello, I just got done with my new forge, and decided the maiden voyage should be an axe of course It started out as a bit of 20x40x100mm mild steel for the body, and 52100 for the business end. I notched the cutting insert ala James Austin (Thanks a bunch btw!), which made welding much easier. The eye was slit and drifted, but one of these days i have to try an assymetric wrap instead (when i build up the skill/courage) I found that my new forge would not stand a chance getting to a welding heat, so i had to do the weld in my old coal forge. I have since then upgraded my burner and some blower piping, and now it's good to go The weight is 460 grams and it has an edge length of 85mm Now i just need to go fetch some ash for the handle. Any input would be appreciated Best regards Peder Visti
  15. Hello there, i finished this little one up the other day and tought i would show it here... It started out as 1" ck60 roundstock with the eye being slit and drifted... The handle is ash... It only weighs about 450 gram's (1lb) Peder Visti
  16. Hey guys I'm thinking about using stock removal to make an axe head and had some questions. Basically what i want to do is weld a piece of 1095 flat stock onto a low carbon piece. I'll stock removal it into shape and eventually the 1095 will become the cutting edge. I'm thinking about having my friend full penetration mig or tig welding the pieces together. I'm worried however that the weld won't be strong enough and the edge will eventually snap off where it was welded on. What do you guys think? Any help will be much appreciated.these are the two pictures i sent to my friend to illustrate what I'm thinking . I included the cross sectional drawing because the axe geometry will be refined into the wedge shape and to show that the axe will be ground smooth so it needs to be full penetration weld. Let me what you guys think, obviously I'm not a welder haha
  17. While I have known Jeff Pringle for quite a while, I got to know him much better in 2009, while I was attending a university in California for my Masters degree. I was invited several times to drive up to Oakland for the weekend, slept on his couch, fondled his artifacts, read from his library, and worked in Jim Austin's shop down the road. During this time Jeff and I started tossing the phrase back and forth, "the price of knowledge." It might apply to any sacrifice one had to make in order to learn something. Usually it's our time, or the price of rare books, or the cost of a bribe to get a more experienced smith to open up a little more about closely-held information. At this year's Axe-n Sax-In, we used the phrase liberally, and many got to hear it for the first time. During Jeff's excellent presentation of his original artifacts, there was a brief nod to the work I was starting to undergo with an Axe I'd bought back in 2009, and I've just recently decided to pay the price to know more about it. So, to the grinder we went. First, actually, I sand-blasted the piece, removing most of the original protective coating. I wanted to really see the structure, and instead of the smoothed-out paraffin product used to conserve it, I prefered to apply a thin coat of Renaissance Wax while it was warm, which protects the iron from oxygen (not as durably) but lets me see much more of the structure. Then, in a fit of whimsical desire, I took the axe over to the stone grinder in Jim's shop, invited a couple friends to witness a rare event, and sparked not just the blade, but the neck, and the back of the eye as well. We found that it was very uniform, and depending on how your Mark-1 Eyeball is calibrated, we figure it's between 0.3 and 0.4% C, and observing the slaggy nature of the entire piece (with only some refinement from heavier forging near the edge), consider the axe to be made entirely of steely bloom. No inset bit, no lap-welded edge, no carburized bits apart from others, just a well-built piece made of material just hardenable enough, probably water quenched and not tempered. Not unlike a RR spike of today, if a RR spike were made of wrought iron and was otherwise generally alloy-free. I ground a window open on the piece and applied a little ferric etchant, and we saw a wonderful hint of what was to come... non-homogeneous carbon distribution in the metal, clear layer boundaries as the folding up to make a large enough piece was accomplished, and clear evidence in the way the layer lines flow of how the material was pushed around a bit to get the shape established. Last night, I completed the exercise, and opened most of the right face. The lower beard is too pitted to get completely down to clean metal, but there's enough flat and polished you can clearly see what's going on. Having observed the grain from the top, the left face is clearly the bias side - there are no end-grain boundaries to observe, everything slopes off the right. We had previously supposed it was an asymmetrical eye wrap, and this work confirms that - the weld line is just forward of where the neck begins to slope down the beard. What I did not expect, though, was another very clear weld line forward of that, angled from far forward at the top, to back about halfway down the beard, just behind that corrosion artifact that looks like a river system. After pondering this, tracing the line back to the top grain, what is obvious now, is that the full beard, neck, and eye were made with a piece of steel about the same thickness across the entire profile. This new piece seems welded into place to add thickness to the neck where it was needed, terminating at the front of the eye, and upon which the lap weld of the eye was forged. It is very suggestive that the maker worked with bars of steel of generally the same thickness, and upsetting wasn't much part of the process. There is still speculation that the beard is the result of an "L" bend in the original bar, and my examination of the right side hasn't gotten that far, but from these images you all are free to speculate. Anyway, that's my report. It took spending a few hundred dollars to get this piece, and it took wanting to know about it's guts more than a desire to preserve it forever in black wax, in order to learn what I've shared here. I've paid the price of knowledge on this one, and hope you enjoy my take on it. The polished face is waxed against the weather, and I think I'll put it away for a while now and ponder, while I finish other work that's still on the bench and in my head.
  18. This is a reproduction of a so-called duckbill axe. It's a style battle-axe that was common in the bronze age of Levant (Israël and surroundings). It's 12cm long, and weighs 400grams. The composition is around 12% tin, and a little bit of lead, and the rest copper. The edge is hammerhardened.The price is 125 euro OBO. Hafting possible, but that's extra:)
  19. This is a copper age reproduction of a copper axe-adze, typical for the copper age of eastern Europe. The original is from Bozuriste, Bulgaria, and dates to around 3500-3000BC. It is cast in pure copper, just like the originals. Edges are hardened by hammering (though still pretty soft due to being copper). It's also my first pure copper casting of such a size. It's 26cm long, and it weighs 1.2kg. I've left some of the roughness on, such as around the socket, as well as keeping the casting seems visible, keeping it as close to the looks of the originals as possible. Price as is 200 euro OBO, hafting is extra. As it came out of the mould:
  20. So here is a fun project I was working on while hanging out at Dave Delagardelle's this past weekend, this axe head was greatly exaggerated from one of his sketches but I think it came out well. Dave was kind enough to give me some wrought iron he had to use in the axe body and to kindly let me use his press. I welded up a 16 layer mini billet of 1095 and 15N20 to make the edge and wrapped it in the body of wrought iron. Having almost no experience working with wrought this certainly was interesting and I will definitely be experimenting with it in the future. I also decided that since this axe head was a bit over the top I might as well go all the way in making it crazy. So I pulled out my wood encyclopedia (no joke it's very handy) and looked for exotic woods that have similar properties to hickory so that I could laminate the handle to give it character without really sacrificing strength. And this is what came out of it: 21 inches long of laminated rosewood and hickory, a 9 1/4 inch long head with a 4 3/4 inch long edge. So thanks for looking and I hope you all enjoy a laugh at least at this viking goofiness.
  21. Hello all! I wanted to share an axe that I made between yesterday and this morning. It is a wrap and weld construction made from 1/2 x 2 1/12 inch flat bar with a 3/16 x 2 1/2 inch piece of 1095 for the edge. The edge on this one is 5 3/4 inches long, the head is 8 inches long, and the handle is nearly 27 inches long made from curly maple. This axe is wicked sharp and I'll be sad to see it head out the door. Oh well I guess I will just have to make one for myself... P.S. The runes read "Chopper" Thanks for looking! Robert
  22. This set I made a while ago for a client. The axe is D2 Tool Steel and the Sword is L6, I used varius hard woods for the handles.
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