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  1. After quite a few failed attempts at making damascus style blades, I finally had one succeed. The steel used is 5160 spring steel and some medium carbon steel from the railroad. I have 64 layers total. The scales are made from Osage Orange, which is another first for me, and the pins are copper. I am rather pleased (and relieved) about how this one came out.
  2. Hi ! During summer I build a new workshop, made a new power hammer and now I start a new project, Polish saber, karabela type. I decided to made it from damascus steel, I choose 1045 and ncv1 steel, 3 billets, 18 layers each, 450 g. weight. After the first weld: Heating to the welding temperature in my gas-forge: And after forging on the power hammer: After forging I use the stell rolling mill to get flat surface and equal thickness on the lenght: 3 billets after forging: After grinding and forging the weight get loss from 1350 to 1083 gram. Each billet cut into the 5 pieces, restack and after forging i get the 90 layers: Forging: and all three billet after forging process: Now I loose less weight then previous time: And now all three prevous billets weld together to make one big billet, after forging I get 270 layers: And ready to forging 7mm thickness bar: It has 3 cm width, 60 cm length, and 870 g. weight. Here is the bar after the forging process, I got the 85 cm length blade, in the widest point is 34mm, After first grinding I mark the fullers and start to grinding the blade: During the forging and grinding I did not notice any delamination, so I'm very happy of welding quality in this piece. Now it is after the grinding, near the tang I got 2 wide fullers and 1 narrow fuller on the back of blade, in the middle near blade is 1 wide fuller, near back is 3 narrow fullers, and at the point there is 2 wide fullers. I hardened the blade already, and now hand grinding the blade, after that I made a video showing flexibility of the blade Regards, Rafał Garbacik
  3. Damascus 1095/15N20/1070. Etched heavy, then CERAKOTE Black. Polished to expose highlights. Enjoy, Jim
  4. Got the final pics back on this guy enjoy! comments welcome! 27" blade 15n20/1095 (welded up totally fluxless) steel fittings wood and leather grip. engraving by Michael Coffey
  5. Both bars are 19c27 and 302 stainless steel with a random pattern. The first bar on the top is 12" long, 1 3/4" wide, and .168" thick for $138.30. The second bar on the bottom is 10 1/2" long, 1 3/4" wide, and .135" thick for $111.13. Properly heat treated this steel is great! It cuts very well. It has good contrast and is easy to etch. I know many knife makers who prefer to work with this steel! This is how we heat treat our stainless steel Damascus when the layers are AEB-L and 301. In case anyone needs some tips for stainless: HEAT TREATING: Preheat furnace to Austenizing temperature Place blade in furnace​ Allow furnace to cycle back to Austenizing temperature Soak for 15 minutes Quench in oil Temper 2 times for 1 hour each time Quench in liquid nitrogen for 4 hours and re-temper 1 time HEAT TREATING TEMPERATURE MATERIAL AUSTENIZING TEMPER Stainless 1925F 350F FINISHING: Take blade to 400 grit finish (must be a sharp belt) Do not buff before etching To etch, submerse blade in a 50/50 solution of ferric chloride and distilled water for 10 minutes Remove blade and rinse under running water Repeat every 5 minutes until desired results are obtained For a brighter blade, buff and reetch 1 time Neutralize with tri sodium phosphate
  6. Hello, I'm looking for a source to buy a cable Damascus billet from but haven't been able to find anything recent. If you know of any people let me know. A few months ago i started playing around with forge welding and learned to forge weld a high carbon bit into a mild steel axe head. Anyways, it turned out really nicely and it got me thinking it would be pretty cool looking to forge weld a cable Damascus bit into tomahawk head. Like i said before let me know if anybody sells it.
  7. This is a blade which I started on my own with a little bit of steel I had left over from a short sword that I was (and still am) working on. JD did me the favor of finishing polishing it for me as I was still a student at Massachusetts College of Art and Design and very short on time with finals. Upon seeing the steel JD asked me if he could come up with and make a handle and scabbard for it. How could I turn down an offer like that? The images that follow show what can be created when two individuals combine powers.
  8. Here's a Kukri I'm working on, still have to figure out how to guard/bolster/handle it, and that's getting tough for me! I've got some difficult choices to make.
  9. Hi all, This is my first Post here but I have been reading page after page here for weeks. I know that their is a ton of posting on much of this, which is why I am mostly looking for some Opinions on what YOU think would be best. Also if anyone lives near me (Ellicott City Maryland) that is okay with offering help and advise when I run into a situation where I need it, let me know. Okay so here goes First up........ Anvil. I can get my hands on some 1045 round stock 4" Dia by 7" or 5" dia x 8.6". 4" is around $50 and the 5" $80. no luck yet with finding a local supplier with a decent size drop, but I am Stil looking. I was also considering the 4140 4"x4" from Old world. 4" 1045 is about 24 Lb the 5" is about 47 Lb and Old world is 25 but its also heat treat and free shipping. which one should i go for? Next for the Damascus.... I am going to be ordering from Aldo at NJSteelBaron.com but Was thinking of doing up a billet of 1095, 1084, and 15N20. Was wondering if anyone has seen anything with this mixture or If you think i should just use either 1084/15N20 or 1095/15N20 mix to keep it simple. I am hoping to make a dagger that has a subtle variation; kinda like someone making a pattern wielded/Damascus out of 1095/1050 mix (Walter Sorrels had a vid he did this in), with the addition of the higher contrast from the 15N20..... Hopefully that came out right and you know what I mean lol. Again Super happy to be here Im working on setting up my own personal setup right now (for my house) and I am getting the forge built hopefully done within a week or so. Thanks in advance
  10. When I became engaged a year and a half ago I had every intention of making my wedding rings, little did I know what a challenge it would be. I wanted them to be pattern welded steel with a gold inlay like J. Arthur Loose's rings, I thought it should be relatively simple to do, but man was I wrong... It ended up taking me seven rings to get them right (seven busted rings) but as of yesterday I finally got them down. After ruining a bit of gold (saved and remelted down) I decided to go with bronze as I have always been fond of that metal. Also because the pattern weld was not stainless it needed to be sealed anyway so there shouldn't be any discoloration. All that being said here they are and I would love to hear what you think of them. I still have a long way to go until I get this technique under my belt, but for a first attempt I think it went well. Robert
  11. 1095 and nickel 201 in the blade. Nickel Silver guard, Dyed green Box Elder and Ebony in the handle.
  12. Here is a little knife I finished not to long ago. Patten welded sides of 15n20 and 1084 with a core of 1084. The blade is four inches, eight overall. The scales and scabbard are made of Kingwood. The back of the scabbard is leather and it is held together with copper "staple rivets" Let me know what you think and thank you for looking!
  13. So I have a few projects to through up as I have not been on here in a while. I figured I would space the postings out a little bit though. BloodwoodBlade Pattern Welded Steel (15N20, 1084), Silver, Bloodwood Scabbard Bloodwood, Leather, Brass I hope you like it!
  14. 2 in cocobolo, 1 Ebony, 1 Ziricote and 1 antler. Thanks for looking.
  15. Drop point hunter forged from 1095 and Pure Nickel, dressed with Box Elder Burl and Antler spacer. Thanks for looking.
  16. This Seax was inspired by David DelaGardelles drawings and Dave Stephens Seax knife. I have always loved Seax knives but could never find a blade shape that I liked. This one I like. My idea in this sketch was to forge weld a piece of plain steel with a piece of Damascus steel at an angle, much like patterned welded knives, but different in the sense that the Damascus is not part of the cutting edge. Is there any reason this would not work? I have never seen this blade steel design/composition on any other knife. How could I keep this weld in a straight line? I am also looking for handle and "guard" material suggestions. I am thinking some type of wood and a bronze guard/fittings. What Damascus pattern would look good with this knife? I am unfamiliar with the names of specific patterns.
  17. first is a 8" chefs in 15n20 and 1095 this one was entirely welded in atmosphere, no oil or flux, the handle is Bubinga with brass pins second is a 6" kitchen in 80 CRV2 clay hardened with a curly maple and copper handle last is a carving knife in 1084 with brass and curly maple handle
  18. Have not posted anything in a while, thought I would throw these two out there. Custom order for a friend in N.C. Matched pair of clip point and small horizontal carry drop point. Blades are 99 layer voodoo (left –then right twist) 1095-15N20 damascus, roughly forged to shape, ground, oil quenched tempered twice. 304 stainless bolsters-pins-guards, All peened . Brass inserts in guard that do not show up in photo – once again phone photo challenged. I tried a bit of file work on the backs, need to practise that some more. Scales are lacewood that I stabilized with epoxy under vacuum. Sheaths are 9-10 oz cowhide. I used a tri-weave stamp for tooling and swiped black dye over the high spots in one direction before dying the entire sheath. Gives a different look. As always comments/suggestions welcome. Matt
  19. Here she be! the etching didn't quite work as well as I had hoped. steel is 0-1 and what I think is 5160 - a railway spring. handle is ironwood
  20. I carved this handle out of deer antler...the eyes are a matched set of mandarin garnets...the blade is damascus...the sheath was custom made by a friend...I am asking 400.00 for it.
  21. Dear All, I have today finally finished my first shortsword! This has been the first blade I have made just for myself and I love it, razor sharp and perfectly weighted for me (though this was luck and not skill!) I hope you like it, I welcome any comments as I kind of let this one go its own way. Specs: Blade: 100-layer Mild/Bandsaw damascus - 15'', widest point: 1.5'', thinnest: 1'' Handle: Mahogany with celtic knotwork pattern (my first attempt at carving) - 9.5'' Crossguard: Mild steel beaten from 16mm bar Sorry about all the photos! Cheers for looking, James
  22. Knife I made for my dad because he was in need of a good cooking knife. Not much else to say about it. Hard to see but this is my family crest. The motto at the bottom reads "finis coronat opus" which means "the end crowns the work". I know the carving isn't particularly good but it was done with a pocket knife and I have no idea how to actually engrave metal. I also posted pictures of this knife in its new sheath here. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=27238
  23. I just finished this on for the family of a fallen soldier. 7" Damascus blade Brass bolsters and spacers and a elk handle Oal is 12 3/4" and its a 1/2" wide at the bolster. Thanks for looking!!! Kip
  24. I finally got around to finishing the scabbard for this sword (pics here if you are unfamiliar with this work: http://bigrockforge.com/tiodhlac-gift-of-the-ghillie-dhu/ These are the final pictures before sending it off. The scabbard is Lake Superior diver-salvaged 'Flame Birch'. Three piece construction.. two morticed pieces and then a birch spacer in between. It is goatskin lined with fox fur at the throat. There is a copper chape and the throat is copper, birch bark with goat skin extending out to provide a nice soft landing for the cross guard. The fit is firm and secure. The wood is glued together but backed up with two twisted wire 'clamps' that would support it well in case of a glue failure. Not to mention the chape and throat pieces. The flame birch was hollow ground like the blade and finished with danish oil. The suspension is a simple braided tie of no particular time period. Just a simple system that I liked. The poem that accompanies the sword (Gift of the Ghillie Dhu) is laminated onto birch bark and shellaqued with copper nails and leather thong. Sad they always have to go.
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