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This one was fun to build, just a little guy for a coworker to give as a gift. Steel is 1095 that has been cold blued. The handle is ebony with black G10 liners and brass tube for the pins. Paracord lanyard and a coyote tan kydex sheath. I etched my maker's mark and the end users initials in the blade, no fancy setup just a big 6V battery and a couple alligator clips. Spine thickness is about 4mm. Thanks for looking! Constructive criticism is always welcome. I'm here to learn how to be as good as possible.

So I had a friend reach out to me looking for a very specific kind of sheath. It was a weird request since normally it's the other way people looking for knives haha. He wanted a sheath he could connect to molle for when he's backcountry dirtbiking. He said I have creative freedom with the knife. 1095 steel cold blued "Sans Peur" without fear etched into the blade (his family motto) The scales are aluminum honeycomb and black resin with black g10 liners. The sheath is kydex with a plastic molle strap for mounting. edit* will definitely post from my computer next time haha the photos rotated themselves for some reason

So I've been working on this little blacksmiths knife for a couple days (I only get about an hour a day max) and so far I love making them. Few things I'd do differently is make the blade about 20% bigger so it's more proportional. I would also move the twist up the handle by about 2". I will definitely take this one all the way but I'll likely keep it for myself. Steel=mystery steel, likely 8670 as its from an old (40yrs +) Allen wrench. The sheath on completion will be kydex. Any constructive criticism is welcome!

Ok fellow smiths. Here is my first forged knife. It’s from an old willys Jeep leaf spring (so I’m assuming it’s 5160). Took me quite a while to get it to this point as when I first started I had WAAAAYYYY too much material for the design I had. I ended up cutting a bunch off and re forging my edge. Once I was down to the correct amount of material I was able to get it down to the correct feeling and balance. Next time I make this design I will make the handle shorter so it has a more controlled feel. Next will be to do the heat treatment process and make a sheath! Hope you enjoy! Ok, here’s the update!!! A while ago I finished up my first ever forged knife! I used instant coffee to get that dark grey petina. The kydex sheath I also made myself.

Recently finished a simple EDC for myself, for once! 5160 blade with a ferric chloride forced patina, Wenge handle scales, and stainless pins. I don't normally grind out my hammer marks or completely get rid of forge scale, because it's my preferred aesthetic, but I figured I might as well play with it.

A friend of mine is getting married, so I told him I was going to make him something out of metal. A few months pass and I haven't decided what it'll be yet - luckily he makes a suggestion. He's a big Liam Hoffman fan, and he likes his Jaegers, but he wants an EDC size. So here she is. 3" blade, 6" overall. Cocobolo handle!

Hello, I wanted to show you the design of small EDC knives for urban environment. Any comment or criticism is welcome 4534DE93-E380-4765-BA3A-F0A8CB733663.mp4

4.5" blade 15N20 1088 steels 9.25 OAL Fossil walrus scales Damascus bolsters Yup, I still make stuff like this...just not that often.

Hey everyone, just wanted to post a few custom orders I recently finished. First up is a Damascus EDC Neck Knife with a full saya and a tethered mekugi. Furniture is wenge and spalted maple + leather and copper and mosaic pins Next up is an extended blade version of the cleaver, this time with a horizontal leather hip holster. Furniture is a nice cut of cocobolo + copper and mosaic pin. Finally, a damascus friction folder. Blade is a drop point, furniture is walnut with a bubinga spacer and copper pins Thanks for looking! All comments/discussion welcome -Grant

Hello all, I've got a few EDC's I mocked up. Same design and steel, just a different handle material. Any input is always appreciated. All blades are 1095 and about 3/16" thick at the spine, flat grind. Top to bottom, the handle materials are Ebony, Cocobolo (both heartwood and sapwood), and Ziricote. VID_20170813_201013.mp4

I have a new design that I am very excited to show you all today! I recently saw a traditional kiridashi from Japan, it had a wood saya and it got me thinking about a new knife design. This knife features a full shirasaya and a necklace. The blade is held firmly within the saya and can be worn around the neck using the necklace. It can then be easily drawn with one hand, and the saya will be left around your neck attached to the necklace. Now here's the really cool part, if you don't want to wear it around your neck, the necklace has clasps that can be opened and allow the necklace portion to be easily removed. Once you remove the necklace, you can carry the blade around in your pocket like a pocket knife. The shirasaya and blade are designed to be very compact and lightweight, creating a very versatile blade for many situations. Now for the specs: OAL of shirasaya: 5.5" Blade length from tip to start of handle: just under 3" Blade width: ~.75" Blade thickness: .17" Furniture: Walnut with cocobolo spacers, leather wrap and necklace with aged brass clasps, and a mosaic pin I see this blade being used best as a self defense and utility knife. It would also function very well for woodworking uses like as a marking knife or for carving. I'm asking $SOLD for this one, ships free USPS priority in the contiguous USA. PayPal preferred Feel free to post questions or comments, first one to say "I'll take it" gets it. You can also contact me at YozakuraForge@gmail.com. Thanks for looking! -Grant

I have for you today a cleaver style damascus neck knife with a full wood saya and leather necklace. The blade is made out of 15n20 and 1095 damascus with a teardrop pattern. It has a convex bevel, and features a ricasso near the handle. The handle itself is a sandwich style and is made of wenge and zebrawood. There are two pins used in the handle, one small copper one and one larger copper and brass mosaic pin. The saya is hand carved and made of zebrawood. There is a leather wrap around the saya that connects to a leather necklace via two brass clasps with an aged patina. The blade is held in the saya by a small wenge pin attached to a short leather string. The pin can be easily popped out and will hang from the leather string that is attached to the necklace so that you won't lose it. The blade has been sharpened up to 6000 grit on waterstones, and is etched enough that you can feel the texture of the steel. OAL: 4.25"Blade Length: 2"Blade Width: just under 1.5"Thickness: 3/16"Materials: 1095 and 15n20 damascus, wenge, zebrawood, copper, brass, leatherThis would be a great EDC blade for self defense and utility. It is very compact and easily carried, while still having a comfortable two-fingered grip. The lack of a stabbing tip on this blade means it can be legally carried concealed or unconcealed in many states. I'm asking $SOLD for this blade, ships free anywhere in the contig. U.S. First one to say I'll take it gets it, feel free to email me at YozakuraForge@gmail.com, PM me, or post a comment if you have any questions or would like to claim the blade.Thanks,Grant

A while back, a coworker of mine gave me some truck leaf springs, and I cut a piece to forge into a full-tang clip point EDC. Unfortunately, I overdid correcting a slight warp near the tip and snapped it off, so I rounded off the end and made it more of a utility knife. I feel like I did fairly well forging it close to shape, though, and didn't need much grinding on the blade. Of course, I also like forge finish and hammer marks--it's kind of my aesthetic :P. I also soaked it in vinegar overnight to give it a bit of a patina. The handle scales are red oak that I shaped, inspired by a Scandinavian design, then dyed/distressed in a similar manner to my leatherwork, gave two coats of tung oil, and sealed with a soft wax. Not the prettiest thing, but it works--it already bit me, and I haven't put the final touches on the edge yet.

working away at things...but time to emerge from the shop for a few minutes and post... Satoyama are the managed forest areas that border the cultivated fields and the mountain wilds in Japan. Historically they provided fertilizer, firewood, edible plants, mushrooms, fish, and game, and supported local industries such as farming, construction, and charcoal making. Balancing the interaction of wetlands, streams, forests, and fields is an important component of the satoyama landscape and allows for sustainable use of the rich resources they offer. About the Tools for Satoyama Project (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/03/tools-for-satoyama) The Tools for Satoyama project is inspired by this mutually beneficial interaction between humans and the natural world, a robust way of life that sustained both for centuries. Among the goals of the project are contributing to the growing awareness of the satoyama concept, sustainable practices, thoughtful approaches to intentional living, and related historical learning. The four styles of kotanto knives designed for the project are named for the four main areas found within the satoyama landscape: stream, field, forest, and mountain. In addition, the forest and mountain models also come in a full sized tanto configuration. Some of the core characteristics of the knives produced for this project are the reclaimed and natural source materials, use of traditional techniques, and a humble and simple style of carving and finishing. About the Mountain Kotanto (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/08/process-making-the-mountain-kotanto) The wider profile of the mountain style kotanto is inspired by a kamakura sword and has a more deeply curved tip (fukura-tsuku) and shorter drop point. The simple and humble mounting style is inspired by the age-old style of farming and foresting tools traditionally used in managing satoyama lands. Project Overview Video

I just finished these two little guys last week. Both are made from high-carbon steel (farrier's rasps). And just in time for Christmas, these adorable knives are looking for their forever owners. Are you the kind of person who can give a good knife a loving home? Please keep in mind, these aren't display pieces. They were made and meant to be used. The best compliment you could ever give me is to tell me how much you like using your knife. Knife #1 is 6 1/2" inches long, with maple and black walnut scales, and 1/8 inch brass pins. Made to be a good every day carry knife, with jimping on the spine and a finger notch for when you need more control. Knife #2 is 7 1/2" inches long, with rosewood scales and 1/8 inch brass pins. The handle is a little wider at the pommel, and it's very comfortable in your hand. Asking $100.00 for either. Haggling is acceptable and expected, of course. I don't have sheaths for them, because I'm out of decent leather at the moment. HOWEVER, I had the fortune to meet an excellent leather worker in Idaho Falls. I've seen his work firsthand, and his prices are good. I'd be happy to pass his name along if you desire. Terms are pretty simple: I'm located in McCammon, Idaho. Cash accepted from in-person transactions only. Cashier's checks or money orders for all others. Buyer pays shipping if necessary. Since the buyer pays the shipping, they also determine how it gets shipped, and I'm willing to ship worldwide. Buyer is responsible for compliance with their local laws. I respond to PMs or email at buck.hedges@gmail.com. You can see more pictures (including some of when these were under construction) at facebook.com/stormsforge. You can also message me here. PM me for my phone number and I will get it to you, if you like. Both knives together. This is the rosewood handle. First time I've ever worked with rosewood. Black Walnut and Maple scales. I like the contrast in the colors. I actually REALLY like the feel of this little knife. Maybe the handle could be a bit longer, but for a nice knife you can carry without it getting in the way, I think this one is great. In Nevada, right now, the style is to wear a knife like this in a horizontal sheath on your belt. Buckaroos often use them to castrate cattle. That's the style (and possibly the purpose) I had in mind when I built this one. Of all the set of 5 I started with, I think this is my favorite one. The dark areas on the blade are reflections of me, and an overhead speaker in the ceiling. I polished them from 36 grit up to 1200, and finally buffing wheel. Closeup of the handle. Both knives were hand-rubbed with linseed oil when I was finished. Nice shiny blade. The Rosewood-handled knife.

Hi guys just wanted post my little sheepsfoot Dashi I made out of some scrap steel (1084 or O1) def one, not sure which. I was just screwing around building my vertical forge and decided to bust out the ol two brick forge and forged this little guy. It's nothing pretty and I can't believe how handy and using it is for EDC, especially since I didn't even play to really carry it. Took a wicked edge too.

It has been awhile since I had photo documentation of a whole knife from start to finish, so I wrote this freshly minted minimalist kotanto project up as an exploration of implementing nihonto geometry and construction into a fusion style edc/outdoor knife. "The Japanese swordsmithing tradition has been in place for generations and many of the design elements have been tested and refined for centuries. With careful study and practice, this can be a solid foundation for today's bladesmiths and knifemakers to build their work upon." Here is where we are headed... ...hang on!

I made this one a while ago, and I totally forgot to post it. The design is basically an extended version of the knives I made as groomsmen's gifts for a friend's wedding. The steel on this one is again 1075, and the handle is, starting from the layer nearest the blade, cherry, maple, and bloodwood. I'm getting better at making these, although the handle for this one didn't come out quite like I wanted it to. It ended up thinner than I would have liked due to the holes I drilled in the maple being just a little bit lopsided. The customer was very happy with it, though, and I guess that's what really counts. I left some of the scale marks in from heat treatment, and the finish is a high satin. The reason I say this is my last blade for a while is that I am currently in the process of building a new shop. I'm making good progress there, though, so I expect to be back up and running again by December. I poured the anvil pad yesterday, which was an important milestone. Lots of excitement there. I am still looking for a name for this design, so if you have any ideas, I would appreciate the input. Without further ado, though, here are the pictures:

Here is a small EDC knife for sale. It is made out of 5160 and has been precisely heated treated for this specific metal. It is 6.5" overall with a 3.5 inch blade. The tang is 1/4inch thick at the thickest then goes into a distal taper like all forged knives should! The handle wrap is tan Para cord. The blade was edge quenched (differential HT) properly normalized 3X, hardened in oil and tempered 3X for 2 hours at 370 degrees. for an extra 15 dollars I will make and include a leather sheath. Please let me know if you have any questions. I am asking $115 shipped + optional $15 for sheath. Vets, law enforcement and current military get discount. I prefer paypal but will accept a money order P.S sorry the pictures are so huge, didn't intend for that

Hi this is a beautiful full tang Tactical/Fighter forged out of Aldo's 52100. It is 1/4" at the thickest and gentle tapers with the distal taper. The blade overall length is 10" with a 6" blade and 4" handle. The wood is an exotic hardwood called bocote that has been hand polished, oiled and sealed. It has two 1/8" brass pins and has epoxied to hold everything together permanently. The blade has been differentially heat treated using Master Smith Ed Fowlers method. It has been 4x normalized, 3x hardened, and finally tempered 3x for 2 hours each time. Between each step it has been placed in the freezer overnight. Ed Fowler states this will add a few extra points of Rc hardness. This knife is extremely sharp and easily shaves hair and whatever else you throw at it! (within reason of course!) I first saw this design when I was learning to forge at Bronk's knife work's a few year ago and finally got around to making it. I made it with extremely hard use in mind. This is a very tough, sharp knife that was made to cut and take abuse. (Although you should never abuse a knife! ) With proper care this knife will last you a life time and more. On the ricasso it has my maker mark of the letter "H". It comes with a handmade sheath. This would be a great knife for a soldier or hunter! Asking price is $200 shipped. PM me if interested though. PayPal preferred but I accept money orders as well. Thank you for looking!

Hi All, Just getting back to knife making after being sick for 6 weeks. So this is what I was able to do this week. It’s a small EDC or hold out that fits snugly and unobtrusively in the small of you back. This one is made from Aldo’s 1/8th inch 1084 hardened and tempered twice to a Rockwell 60. Rose wood scales and brass pins, hair popping sharp. Almost impossible to see you are carrying if you leave your shirt out or are wearing a jacket. Comes with the sheath. Paypal is preferred. Thanks for looking. Price shipped to the lower 48 is $80.00 Thanks for looking feedback is always appreciated. Ken

Hi All, Something a little different today. A nice little Wharncliffe Bladed knife. This one is made from 154 CM thickness from the distributer is at .103 to .113 a little thinner now. 154 CM is a HI-Carbon stainless, if stainless is the way you want to go this would be a good choice of steels. Hardened and tempered twice to a solid Rockwell 59. The scales are made from black paper Micarta and 1/8 “ brass pins. The finish is a hand rubbed satin and the blade is hair popping sharp. I mean really sharp. During the final cleanup I took the top of the second knuckle on my ring finger off and did not feel it till I saw the blood. Can anyone out there relate? While I was just using some hand tools no less. Anyway............This would make a nice EDC, Trout and Bird or if my wife gets her way a really nice Paring knife. No sheath with this one but if you must have one ask and we will work something out. Price shipped to the lower 48 is $70.00 Thanks for looking and comments are always welcome. Ken

Just finished this handforged edc, 1084 blade Natural micarta handle w/ ss pins and red vulcanized liners. Oal -7 3/4" Blade 3 1/2" It has a definite swedge, but as it's forged in and wasn't ground at all, it'd harder to make out in photos. (this handle material is to lovely not to get a closeup)....

Finished this some time last week. I encountered a few problems, but it was easier than I thought and will be making more fiction folders. Its my new personal edc. I think I'm finally getting the hang of this knife making thing Materials are curly oak I was given by Dave DellaGardelle, 1075, and unrolled copper plumbing pipe. Pretty useful little knife. The tail I forged a little too thick, so it has to wedge tightly between the liners. I was somewhat annoyed with it at first, but I actually find it quite useful now because it locks the blade in place pretty securely when open. I took a bunch of pictures from multiple angles as usual because I feel it gives a better impression of the knife.