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Found 14 results

  1. Hi guys I have just finished this one up. Its a japanese inspired petty knife hand forged by me.Steel:Hitachi Shirogami (white steel) number 1 laminated with SUS 410 stainless with pure nickel in between them.Blade:~4.375" long featuring a full distal taperHandle:~4.25" Wa handle featuring old growth mahogany bolster paired with beautiful light colored ringed gidgee This blade is wicked sharp and has a rounded choil and spine. I also took time to chamfer the sharp edges on the front of the handle and round the back of the handle. The blade was hand finished to 800 grit and etched to show the frosty mountain-like scenery in the blade caused by the carbon diffusion between the stainless jacket and high carbon core steel. The handle was finished to 2500 grit, buffed, rubbed with teak oil, and finally finished with paste wax.ASKING $300 Thanks for checking this out guys. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Now for some pictures.
  2. I've got two nice hand forged honyaki usuba for sale here, both are made for right-handers and are terrific slicers. First up is the zebra wood usuba. It has a nice octagonal handle of zebra wood with a wenge spacer, and a full hidden tang. Blade material is 1095, I gave it an angular gunome style hamon that is showing some great activity. The blade has a chisel geometry with one face convex to the edge and the other face flat. Comes with a full spalted maple saya that has a matching wenge spacer and wenge pin. OAL is 12.25" and the blade length is 6". The blade is approximately 1/8" thick. Sharpened up to 6000 grit on a waterstone, this knife makes for a fantastic slicer. Asking $SOLD ships free in the contig. U.S. PayPal preferred Next is the spalted maple wood usuba. It has an octagonal handle of spalted with two wenge spacers, and a full hidden tang. Blade material is 1095, with a gunome style hamon. Again, the blade has a chisel geometry with one face convex to the edge and the other face flat. Comes with a full spalted maple saya that has a matching wenge spacer and wenge pin. OAL is 11.5" and the blade length is 5.25". The blade is approximately 1/8" thick. Sharpened up to 6000 grit on a waterstone, this knife also makes for a fantastic slicer. Asking $SOLD ships free in the contig. U.S. PayPal preferred First to ask gets them, please make it clear which of them you'd like. Contact me at YozakuraForge@gmail.com, PM me, or post a comment if you have any questions or would like to claim a blade. Thanks for looking, -Grant
  3. hey guys just finished this one up Blade: ~5" of tekefu white no. 2 suminigashi. This thing is a laser and tapers down to a needle point. Handle: Wa style featuring black g10, copper and old growth cocobolo PRICE: $450 If you have any questions feel free to comment/inbox me. Thanks for checking it out!
  4. Hey guys I finished this one up about a month ago and thought I would share it with you. The blade is made out of .100' thick CPM154 stainless and is 8" long. Handle is g10 with brass pins. The grind is slightly convex and was taken to .005" before sharpening. The spine and chill were crowned for maximum comfort. Now for the pics... Thanks for checking it out. Please feel free to comment/Critique -Jeff Fogleboch
  5. Pictured is a new knife I made. It would make a great steak knife or kitchen knife, but could also be used as a carry knife. Here's some info on the blade: OAL: 8.5" from back of handle to tip Blade Width: 1.25" at widest point Blade Thickness: 1/8" thick at thickest point with a distal taper to the tip Blade Material: 1095 with a hot brine quench Blade Finish: Nice reflective satin finish Scales: Bocote with a REALLY nice grain pattern The blade is HAND FORGED - not stock removal - and the handle is secured with three brass pins and adhesive Asking $200 $170 $125 and ships FREE in the contig. U.S. The transaction will be made through PayPal First to ask gets it, shoot me an email at YozakuraForge@gmail.com or PM me Thanks for looking, I appreciate it. -Grant
  6. Hello again I have recently ventured into making kitchen knives, initially because i needed some kitchen cutlery for myself. This is the latest result to come out of the forge, the blade is 205mm long (8") and about 32mm wide (1 1/4") at the widest point, it is also quite thin, around 3,5mm at the thickest, tapering to the point and edge, the blade is flat ground, transitioning to a convex for the last 8mm, these factors lead me to believe it is a carver or sujihiki, but i may very well be wrong, since typology is not my strong point, feel free to educate me if you please! The blade was edge quenched, and after finishing i did a 15 minute etch in ferric chloride, to combat the inevitable oxidation that will occur in the kitchen, this also revealed a simple quench line, and alloy banding of the parts that were left unquenched. The handle is simple, it is maple and bocote, the handle is attached by drilling a 10mm hole partway through the handle block, and then drilling a 6mm hole a bit deeper, to guide the thinner end of the tang, so it is not a sloppy fit. The gaps around the tang at the top are then filled with two tapering hardwood wedges, in this case beech dowel, the wedges are glued to the handle itself with regular woodglue, but are just a friction fit to the tang, this may or may not be a strong enough constrution, that will be proved during testing. But seeing as lots of handmade japanese kitchen cutlery is also just put together with a friction fit, i think this will be allright. Regards Peder Visti
  7. Hi all I want to make a kitchen knife, a Santoku What I want to know is what type of steel do you masters recommend me? I don't want to use Inox steel, because, well, it sucks, I would like to use some kind of carbon steel but the problem is to wash it in the dish washing machine and prevent that it will get rusty. Is there any kind of treatment to prevent rusty? Thank you
  8. Things got a bit strange when I started taking pictures of this new knife More or less normal, but then... To the other side Maybe this happened because I just watched Galaxy Quest + some Star Trek. Also, shocking news about the "discovery" of the ninth planet might have destabilized the time/space between my ears. Steel is Stenco Leuku, Handle bog oak (thank you Hloh!) with sterling silver pins and bolsters. Blade edge is very very thin and sharp, and as hard as possible - got to have that for mushrooms, cucumber, garlic, chili and other demanding stuff like that.
  9. 9.5" and 7.5" Steel; BS1407 Handle; African blackwood with nickel silver pins.
  10. Santoku kitchen knife WIP, first blade of mine that i have posted here. 5" cutting edge, 9" Overall length, 1.6" at widest point, approx 1mm thick blade. Skeletonized tang slot fit into solid oak handle .75" x 1" x 3.75" Still trying to get the tool marks totally removed and a nice polish on the blade, and the Oak handle will not be shaped fully until i get to a belt sander next weekend. Makers mark is my last name in Traditional Chinese
  11. Here are two kitchen knives i just finished, a gyuto and a funayuki. Both are forged from a composite bar of 4 alternating twists with a straight laminate edge. They are both symmetrical double grind and full convex with a micro bevel. Here's a link showing some of the making process. Critique and criticism very welcome, it will help me make the next ones better! Gyuto Total length: 395mm Blade length: 250mm Height: 46mm Point of balance: right at choil Weight: 230 grams Thickness after collar: 3mm Full distal taper Funayuki Total length: 280mm Blade length: 147mm Height: 44mm Point of balance: Where copper collar meets wood Weight: 195 grams Thickness after collar: 3.4mm Full distal taper Thanks for looking
  12. Hi all, This knife is the first one that I'm actually proud of despite the flaws (my mistakes). I had made the blade a while ago and was having trouble figuring out what to do for the handle so it was sitting around. When I saw Dave J's post: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/06/making-a-hon-yaki-nata/ I had my inspiration. The blade is 1084 and formed by stock removal using an angle grinder for rough profiling, a drill for the pin hole, and files and sandpaper for the rest. The bolster is copper salvaged from plumbing fittings silver soldered (poorly). I over filed the opening for the blade and as this knife was destined for the kitchen, it seemed that silver soldering it to the blade might be a good solution (fix the gap and seal it). The handle is wood from a pallet. It has been charred to blacken and polished with beeswax. I over cut the setback for the bolster and I may yet replace the handle to improve the fit. The pin is oceanspray (ironwood) also inspired by Dave J. Any criticism, comments are welcome! I'd also like to thank everyone on here for providing such an amazing resource for a beginner bladesmith! Also, sorry for the crappy cell phone pics...
  13. Hi all, I am knifemaker from Czech republic, and I want to share and offer my work. this one is forged from old file, parcialy hardened and on handles is cherry wood from my garden :-) lengh is 28cm price is 100dolars
  14. Hey Everyone, This seems like a great place and a little more homie than some of the other general forging forums I've found. I've been drawing a lot, after looking at a lot of blades and wanted to show some of my progress. I'd like some feedback on the patterns, and maybe some help in figuring out what to start on first. Thanks for looking.
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