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  1. Hello, I am new to blacksmithing/ knifemaking. I have been looking at everyone's posts for a while, so I thought that I should show some of my stuff. I have been forging since late October 2014. I post a lot of my process pictures on Imgur. I am not just a bladesmith. I like making other things too! My First knife: The whole process: http://imgur.com/gallery/AJqIB My second knife & first folder: a freaky forged ring dagger: a forged butterfly knife. It was a "see if i can do it" project: A curved knife that a friend ordered: , process: http://imgur.com/gallery/pt028 the strangest folder I have ever made. I messed up on the hole & had to design the handle around the knife: And my latest and favorite knife, a forged tanto that can be taken completely apart. I used Dave J. Friesen's tutorials to make it, so thank you Mr. Friesen! : , the whole process: http://imgur.com/gallery/TQAYw I hope all of the links work for you. The lone pictures might not work but the process pictures probably will. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Wes Alberson
  2. Hi guys. Finished a new blade today. 1095 with hamon quenched in warm water then warm oil. First time using Satanite and it followed the clay pattern. Also first time using my new JF#1 burner. Works great. After the blade turns red, even on the lowest setting it keeps the blade bright red. Anyway, I need opinion on a few things: 1: What do you guys think about the Hamon? Good? Bad? Where does it need to improve? Constructive criticism welcome. 2: On all my knives the Hamon is more clear on one side. The side when the blade is lying flat and the tip is pointing to the right. Its clearer on that side on every knife I've made. Why could that be? 3: In the two pics of the close ups, there's thin cracks on each side of the blade. I'm sure they're cracks because I can feel them with my nails. They became more obvious when I got to the finer sand paper. Why would the blade be cracked in that area? 4: With the light on, the Hamon doesn't show well, unlike my previous knives. Why? 5: Not the best polishing job for 2000 grits. I used Gator sandpaper from Lowes instead of 3m. Is Gator inferior or is it me? Anything else I need to work on? Close up of the blade show cracks on one side Close up of another side showing the thin cracks
  3. Blade Pattern Welded Steel (15N20, 1084), Mastodon Ivory, Silver, Gold, Green Diamonds Scabbard Flame Maple, Leather, Silver, Brass I am currently re-making the handle and scabbard. They were damaged, and I decided I would rather have a second go at it then fix the damage. Pictures of the update will soon follow
  4. Hello everyone, my name is Manuel and i come from Italy and this is my first post here. Here's one of my first blades, not forged 1050 steel, gunome hamon with thick nioi line. Hope is good enough, tho i've seen truly amazing works here. (Pictures are made by a good friend of mine who's actual owner of the blade now)
  5. Here is a small EDC knife for sale. It is made out of 5160 and has been precisely heated treated for this specific metal. It is 6.5" overall with a 3.5 inch blade. The tang is 1/4inch thick at the thickest then goes into a distal taper like all forged knives should! The handle wrap is tan Para cord. The blade was edge quenched (differential HT) properly normalized 3X, hardened in oil and tempered 3X for 2 hours at 370 degrees. for an extra 15 dollars I will make and include a leather sheath. Please let me know if you have any questions. I am asking $115 shipped + optional $15 for sheath. Vets, law enforcement and current military get discount. I prefer paypal but will accept a money order P.S sorry the pictures are so huge, didn't intend for that
  6. Magpie and Tiger Knife This was a quick build I just finished last night around midnight. I had some new challenges with the carving style and a new type of wood. The Osage Orange was easy to cut but I had to be careful about stripping chunks with the grain. It has a nice color and glow. I wish it were a little bit more orange though. Embossing the Magpie was also new. I used a couple homemade shapes and tried to fill the space. I would have loved to have time to construct an actual stamp but this worked just fine. I discovered something new on this as well. I left the blade in the vinegar for about 36 hours and it ate away the steel that had not been hardened in the heat treating. Fortunately this left a really cool pattern on the blade so I ran with it. I sanded it down with a finer grit so it would leave some of the new grain textures in the steel. I still need to get a pixel smith mark/stamp made. The tiger carving was a huge challenge. I'm not thrilled with how it turned out. I messed up the first scabbard by grinding through it so that set me back quite a bit on an already tight commission timeline. It was definitely a rushed carving and much flatter than I wanted but I just didn't have time for any more than that. I think I made this whole knife in just over a week, which is my fastest so far. I don't like working at a rushed pace. No I don't. The pictures did turn out pretty nice though. See the full process here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/magpie%20and%20tiger
  7. hello, i've been looking through this forum for some time now, learning lots of things, and appreciating lots of nice work by you guys! this is my first finished knife. it's made out of an old nicholson file, redgum, brass and copper. the blade was hardened, tempered to a light golden brown and then the spine was tempered further with the edge in water. it's a scandi grind with a tiny secondary bevel? is there a name for this sort of grind? it looks a bit battered, but i had to test it out, and i think i prefer it than the shiny new look anyway. i would very much appreciate any constructive criticism or thoughts cheers
  8. Done and done. Reclaimed steel from a coil spring hardened, tempered and sharpened (does pop some hair but could be sharper). Pink lady wood handle with deer antler inlay. Balances exactly on the index finger right behind the forward brass pin. Hand sanded and polished to 600 grit, which as you can see leaves a nice reflective surface. Perfect for a kitchen with some “Medieval” or “Old World” flair. It is one of the knives I will be selling at the Battle of Charleston this upcoming weekend. If it doesn’t sell there it will go straight to my Etsy shop. Overall length: 10.5" Blade length: 5.5" cutting Blade thickness: .125" (where handle and blade meet, tapering to the point) Handle: 5"
  9. This is a beautiful knife. Coming into the circuit from Charleston, SC this knife weighs in with a 3.5" blade and 7.25" overall with a 1084 steel blade with a warthog snout notch, iron fittings and deer leg bone handle. The hardware lines up nicely together for a snug, tight fit. The filled handle gives the overall balance a nice hefty feel. It’s packed with warthog stabbing power. This will be for sale this weekend at the Battle of Charleston Reenactment this weekend. I will be in the Blacksmith area where we will have live demonstrations going on and fulfilling custom orders on the spot. It was a blast making this one although there were some tricky aspects. I had to fill the inside to fit the blade securely. No problem, enter wood filler epoxy. The blade is secured three ways, 1) Filler epoxies, 2) Solder and 3) Tang peening. This knife build came together quite a bit easier than some of my other projects (I must be getting better... I hope that's what that means). Check out the full set of final shots here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/warthog%20knife
  10. Both are 1084, the throwing knife clay hardened and tempered to 420 Fahrenheit , the hunter hardened and tempered at 375 for 45 minutes then 350 for another five minutes, snap cooled with water in between cycles. THROWING KNIFE. A drilled hole serves as the marker for the CG. Once I figger out the right distance and stay consistent in form, it sticks almost every throw. This one I'm trading for a wallet from a leatherworker. HUNTER. Guard is scrap 1084, soldered on with the simple tin lead alloy solder. Antler secured with epoxy and hidden pins, sheet brass for spacers. The wood is driftwood I found down by the Sacramento River, oiled and stained, and secured with rifle cartridge pins and epoxy. Full tang. Still gotta do the detail filing, but I like this one . Any tips and suggestions? Thanks, Caleb.
  11. Hey everyone! It's been a long time since I have posted anything! Life has taken some turns for me and I have found my passion for smithing again! I think I lost it in the grind of work over the last two years! But I am happy to say it's back and I am not letting it go! I have been forging some small simple blades to give as presents to my inlaws for Christmas. It's been very fun and I wanted to get some practice in before I start doing more complicated knives. So here are two of the five knives I have been working on. I hope to finsh up the last one on thursday. Any comments would be great! This is the basic shape that I have forged from coil spring bar stock. The tongs in this image I made two weeks ago and I am very happy with them! They are the second pare I have made! Here is the finished blade. It has an oil wax mix burned onto the handle. This is a straight edge razor design that came to me as I was forging it. I am very happy with the proportions and flow of this one. What do you all think? Thanks for looking! And Merry Christmas!
  12. so I've started working on a Knife assigned to me by a client, I've begun the rough shape of the blade and am working on making sure it's all nice and even. this is probably the largest blade I've ever made and it's coming along perfectly right now. I'll post some images every day and should be done with it by the end of about a week or two. I'm also going to start another post about setting up my forge down here in the sunny state of Florida, but right now this is what I've gotten done on the knife. I'm using a little anvil that seems cast Iron but bounces the hammer off pretty darn nicely, I also have several makeshift anvils that I rig up to use for certain jobs, the forge itself is still in early production seeing as how I just recently moved to Florida and all my good stuff was sold by my parents who decided I didn't need it........................ But I've moved past this trivial matter and the lost of 60% of my equipment sold for practically nothing and am starting anew in somewhat greener pastures. so this is it, enjoy, post, comment, tell me what I should and shouldn't do despite my years of experience (sarcasm), and tell me what i should do next. I just pointed it and have not started the full drawing out process, also if you were wondering, I'm using W1..... I think..... but i'm still gonna quench it in oil despite it being what it is. Post Script are these images too big? I read something about not having over a certain sized photo, but i can't remember what it was and I was just skimming through trying to find something actually interesting, if they are I'll re-size them
  13. Thought I'd show off some more of our knives and leather work.... questions, critiques, comments, and especially compliments welcome... ha ha Blind tang, 1095, Clay & oil hamon, Cocobolo and Brass SAM_6068 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6069 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6070 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6072 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6073 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6075 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6078 by djs1984, on Flickr
  14. I thought I should share this despite how unimpressive it is compared to other work shown here because everyone has to start somwhere. I started with a peice of what I think was half-inch grounding wire, it was definetly high carbon steel from all the bright yellow sparks it gave off when I cut it and how well it hardened. I hammered it until it was about 1/8th inch thick then I forged the curve of the knife and the point before I made the bevels. the edge was about 5/64 inch when I quenched it. after It was quenched I reheated it and quenched it again because it was uneven. after I quenched it I tempered it at 475 F for 1 hour 15 minutes. . I cut the bevels with a file and sharpened it with auto body sandpaper up to 2000 grit. next I made the handle out of what I think was once a small fruit tree or a shrub. The trunk and roots were dead in the backyard when I moved here. I took four inches and drilled a 1/2 inch hole through it then glued the handle to the blade. the tang was too long so I cut about an inch off of it. I shaped the handle using a chisel but cut too deep once so I used wood glue to save it. I finally coated it in olive oil (I had no other oil besided conola) it was easy to file and sharpen yet it can do some serious choping and shave paper after. overall I am calling this a success (for a first knife!). the spine is about 1/8 in thick and the blade is about 6 in long.
  15. I have ten of these bushcraft knives available for sale. They are all hand forged from 1095. The knife includes sheath and fire steel with curly maple handle. While these knives are basically the same each one has slight nuances that make it unique. Each blade comes razor sharp and the only thing missing from the photo is my logo featuring a compass. Specs: Blade: 4 inches long and 1 inch wide Handle: 4 1/2 inches long Materials: Curly maple, leather spacers, walnut, textured aluminum. Price: $150 -Free shipping within the continental US. PM me for details. The first ten to respond will receive the knives. Thank you for looking. Robert
  16. So im very green and new to the bladesmithing community. Im currently teaching myself with the aides of " The Complete Bladesmith" by Jim Hrisoulas (very helpful), this EXCELLENT FORUM, youtube (of course) and by trial and error. I wanted to just share a few items that I've forged. I haven't completely finished any pieces yet as I have been practicing forging blades. Ive done some grinding and filing and am now starting to focus on that as well as the heat treating process. So I've been trying to learn in stages (not sure if thats the best way to do it or not so I welcome the correction if thats the case). These two are the same knife. After a few throwaway railroad spike attempts i got this and then grinded the heck out of it with tiny harbor freight belt sander. Another railroad spike knife I was messing around with a piece of rebar and forged this I got very ambitious and tried my hand at damascus just to see if i could do it. With the help of a couple of volunteer strikers (poor man's power hammer) I came out with a somewhat successful piece and learned a lot. So I forged a mjolnir pendant. This is a knife I'm working on at the moment and filing alot. I will make my first attempts at heat treating with this blade. These are my most recent endeavors. Once again I may be getting ahead of myself but I started working on a short sword as well. Im learning slowly and my challenges right now are grinding/filing with uniformity ( which will be my biggest challenge with that short sword and welcome any tips that would be given). I also need to learn some techniques on grinding/filing with uniformity. Also if there are any tips on heat treating and also what sort of thickness I need to forge to. There's no way to adjust the environment of the forge I have that I can figure (I purchased a ck forge. if that rings any bells and know of any modifications that would be most helpful) and Im sure it shows in my work with all of the pitting of scale in the blades. I've been searching the forum as best I can, when I can but if there can be any quick tips given I'd greatly appreciate it. Ive only been at it for a few months so I need all of the help I can muster. I'm sure this will not be the last time I ask questions. Thank you very much! Also this is my setup...
  17. The following knife is an experiment of sorts. It's the first blade I have forged from our Wootz-ish crucible steel (~1.7%C?) and meant to resemble a small seax. The ring-and-dot motif on bone is reminiscent of Viking-age bone decoration, although the motif is much older and common to many different cultures. The bolster is a simple copper plate that I drifted to the shape of the tang. The handle is scavenged ironwood from a flooring job. Unfortunately, I messed up the heat treat on the knife. Tempering at 500F for an hour left the blade very brittle and not suited for anything but kitchen duty. I wonder what a proper tempering temperature for Wootz-ish knife might be. For the next one, I will try 800F and see how that goes. I would also like some suggestions on handle decoration. For my taste it is too unadorned, but the ironwood is very hard and brittle. I had a hard time chiseling out even the tang. Blade Length: 7 1/4in Blade Width: 1 5/8in Handle Length: 6 7/8in Let me know what you think, Niels.
  18. Hey Y'all, Just finished my knife. I'm very pleased with the handle color. This was posted earlier as "saex-like knife" in design and critique, but now I'm done. I've used it to cut meat in the kitchen and I'm very pleased with the edge. The handle is maple(maybe, its storm damage wood) stained with prussian blue dye. I sealed that dye in with polyurenthane. It took a long time for it to dry because of the humidity, but it's finally done. Just needs a sheath, but that's for another day.
  19. hello Gents! i offer you a sneak peek to my latest accomplishments all coments are welcomed
  20. First, A HUGE thanks to all those who post information and work in progress threads. This knife was made possible with all of your help. This is one of our first 2 hidden tang knives, our very first stacked leather handle as well as our first peened tang. Learned a lot of tricks off this website along the way. Thank you! Second, a short introduction, My brother Marcelino and I work together on our knives. Neither one of us is a great knife maker, but we work together and use each of our strengths to make something more beautiful than if we worked seperately. My brother ghosts this forum regularly, since I'm better with typing, here I am. I'm still new to this forum, but I love what I see already. great atmosphere and helpful, knowledgable people. We hope to contribute and give back what we can considering how much we have learned from here. so without further ado, The knife.... SAM_6042 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6035 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6031 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6034 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6037 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6038 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6041 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6043 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6045 by djs1984, on Flickr 1095, clayed and differentially heat treated, Black Micarta guard/pommel, compressed stacked leather handle with a peened tang. No glue. Has anyone seen a carved / tooled stacked leather handle before? Curious... comments, critiques welcome Thanks for looking.
  21. Hey Y'all, I just quenched this one an hour and a half to two hours ago! It has been oil quenched and I'm pleased with it. There is a little warpage on the spine. I heard that one could straighten a blade with a vice and pliers. Is this true? should I do this before or after tempering? Anyway I hope to clean it up more and put on its scales and let y'all see them. They'll be blue! I'm so freaking excited! Cheers!
  22. Ok so I got two sets of leaf springs from my ladies dad and I have recently used a bit to make this knife. my question is since this is a bigger knife and a small propane torch just isn't gonna cut it how long do I leave it in the oven. I know this is a dumb question but the knives i've been making have been a lot smaller so didn't need an oven. I have a picture on here and the blade is 11 and a half by 2 and a quarter wide. thanks for the help
  23. Hey Y'all This is my first post of a project. I've made some knives before, but I felt good about posting this one. You can see that the blade is an unusual shape, but I like my happy little accident. There's only a single brass tube keeping the tang in place, but half the handle is carved out so that it won't wiggle at all. The sheath and handle are white oak. They have been stained with the leftovers of an acid bath (apple cider vinegar) for cleaning rust and firescale. Basically it's Iron II and Iron III acetates in water. Iron reacts with white oak to make a very dark color. The other piece of wood illustrates the difference in appearance on non-oak wood. I'm very happy with the highlights in the wood. The lanyard is a bit of paracord I had liying around. I intend to get some leather or something and make a belt loop for it to hang around (after all, it's like my grandpa said, "I didn't get it to look at it"). It fits well in my hand and I enjoyed making it. Right now, I need a bit of advice/tips, it needs a little more sharpening, and it needs a name so I can etch into the blade. Cheers! Made a leather cover to put it on my belt. It's been a few months, but I already love this knife can't wait for my next one. It's going to have blue stained maple grips. I can't wait, but I have to... =(
  24. Here is a RR Spike Knife I forged a bunch of years ago and finally got cleaned up for a customer. Spike is from Southern Texas, was pretty rusty and marked HC. They harden surprisingly well for the amount of carbon in them but, high performance it is not. This twist is a copy of one used in a window grill by Samuel Yellin. ~Bruce~
  25. This in my latest knife project and i was wondering what category this might fall into. I know there is a placement with swords via the oakshot i believe might be wrong, but either way its a big knife thing. I also would appreciate any tips or some helpful criticism.
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