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Found 21 results

  1. My most recent puukko, in 80crv2 and birds-eye maple with traditional Scandinavian wedged handle construction. The blade has a rhombic cross section with a high scandi grind polished/sharpened on a surface plate to ensure flatness. I find these little blades excel at wood working, and all sorts of other tasks. The blade is held into the handle with a pair of pine wedges along with eposy to increase strength and water resistance. The knife comes with a custom fit leather sheath with a wooden blade liner and a "dangler" style belt loop. Here are the dimensions: -3” (76mm) blade-7/8” (22mm) wide -3/16” (4mm) thick spine at the thickest point- 7 1/8” (181mm) overall length Price is $120 plus shipping, if you are interested you can PM me here or find it in my Etsy shop at https://www.etsy.com/listing/588066369/hand-forged-puukko-knife-with-birdseye Thanks for looking!
  2. There's something about old knives that have seen some use I really like. I don't often buy knives, but when I saw this one I decided it was worth it. From what I was told, it's Swedish and looking at it, I would guess it's in the Southern Saami style (smaller knob, less bend in the blade cover in the sheath). Also, I'm pretty sure it wasn't made by a cutler. The blade shows evidence of forging, it looks like it was shaped with a grinding wheel, but not the large (2-3' diameter) wheels that were used to hollow grind blades like this. The handle also seems home made, still showing rasp and knife marks. I think it's pretty cool to see a knife made this way that's also this old (have no idea exactly when it was made) I tried to forge the blade as close as possible, it ended up a bit thinner and I gave it a rhombic cross-section since I like that on this type of knife. It's made from 80crv2. It was a little tricky to grind, it's almost like doing a double edged blade, since there are no parallel sides. I'll heat treat it tonight, along with a small skew chisel I made to do the sheath carving. This has been really fun, I have some other old knives I may try to do this with at some point.
  3. I've been making knives since 2006, but I've never made one for myself. Of course there has been a "workhorse" or two, but nothing fancy. More than once this has created a problem, because I haven't had anything worth showing available. Finally I decided it was time to address this issue. This puukko is my final work as a student at Mikkeli Vocational College, Arts&Crafts. Two years of hard work to begin the process of becoming a professional knife maker. Blade on this one is Uddeholm Elmax Superclean high carbon stainless steel. It was made by grinding alone, not to disturb the original structure of the steel, that has been created by powder metallurgy. Heat treatment process was quite different from what I'm used to, with 3 step progression in heating. It was quenched in warm oil for a couple of seconds, and the job finished with pressurized air. After the quench the blade was cryogenically treated in liquid nitrogen, then tempered. Blade length 9cm, 4,8 mm at the thickest point and with an edge angle of about 19 degrees. Tapers towards the tip, and has a diamond cross section typical for (forged) puukko blades. -161,4 C after almost three hours in the box. I was tempted to try if my tongue would stick to the stainless steel tube.. Handle is antler, birch bark and sterling silver. The antler I had had a pleasing shape that I tried to preserve as much as possible. This left the handle a bit thicker than I would normally make it, but it is very comfortable still. The sheath without its decorative sterling silver fittings and coloring. The sheath has a birch wood "last" inside to keep everything in shape This knife was made to go with the Finnish seax I made earlier. I will photograph them together once the light returns. Happy winter solstice everyone! TallennaTallenna
  4. These are a couple of puukkos I just finished. They are based on the maasepän style with the partial tang burned in to an all wood handle. Over the past few years, I've fallen in love with the simplicity of this style and personally use one for a lot of tasks around the shop. Both have scandi grinds with the final polishing/sharpening done on stones to make a flat surface that will be easier to re-sharpen. The blades are both forged from 80crv2 with a rhombic cross section. They have traditional leather sheathes with wooden inserts to protect the blade. Both are listed on Etsy, but if you are interested you can also send me a PM. #1, Birdseye Maple handle -82mm (~3 1/4") long blade -20 mm (~3/4") wide -4 mm (~3/16") thick at the thickest point -190 mm (~7 1/2") overall length SOLD https://www.etsy.com/listing/480894573/hand-forged-puukko-knife-with-birdseye #2, Flame Birch Handle -78 mm (~3 1/8") long blade -20 mm (~3/4") wide -4 mm (~3/16") thick -187 mm (~7 3/8") overall length SOLD https://www.etsy.com/listing/467410784/hand-forged-puukko-knife-with-flame Thanks for looking! Aiden Carley-Clopton
  5. Cherry handle and wrought iron and 1095 San Mai steel blade. A Scandinavian style puukko with a 6 1/4 inch over all length and a 2 3/8inch blade. The carving on the top of the handle is a Swedish design has been around for centuries, and is adorned with a copper pin in the center. Thanks,
  6. OAL: 6 1/2 inches Blade Length: 2 1/2 inches A simple leather sheath to let the knife really shine on it's own. This was a real joy to make, and I hope you enjoy it as much as I have. Thanks, -Tim
  7. Well I've struck again, working to do well in this style before I want to move on to others. I've got a wrought iron and 1095 San Mai Puukko, with a birds eye maple handle. Simple but useful. OAL - 6.5 inches Blade Length - 2.5 inches Blade thickness - 3/16 of an inch Handle - A smidgeon under 4 inches All comments are welcome, I won't improve otherwise. Thanks for looking everyone. -Tim
  8. So I was procrastinating on my KITH project, and I made a puukko. I love these knives, and I would like to make more. So if you guys could have a look, and let me know how I can improve on the next puukko I make that would be awesome! Blade material was a bandsaw blade from work that I cut up and welded together, wrought, copper, and some ash. Unfortunately I didn't have a block, just a 1/2in thick piece. I used it as it was my only choice, and it was very pretty. Sadly I was unable to join the halves as well as I intended, which left a visible seam. I am pretty bummed about that. All work was done by hand so I am pretty happy overall. And now, back to my KITH!
  9. Finished work on this one last week. It's been a while since I made a puukko, and maybe because of that I struggled with some parts of the process. For example, I had to redo the front bolster seven (yes, seven) times before achieving a satisfactory fit. Thanks for looking!
  10. I have noticed that there seems to be some confusion and/or questions concerning the basics of forging a puukko. I thought it would benefit some of you to see at least one way of achieving the ‘traditional’ blade geometry of a puukko-knife. This might not be the best way to do it, but, it works for me and for many others. Furthermore, this is by no means meant to be a complete or detailed guide. A brief explanation and a quick sketch of each major step of the process: 1. I usually start with about 4mm x 22mm x enough-not-to-burn-my-fingers flat barstock, like this; When I use a steel that is only available in round bar I go for 11mm or 12 mm in diameter, and flatten it first. 2. Use a suitable corner of the anvil to make one shoulder 3. Stretch out the tang. Forge meticulously, so that the thickest part is at the shoulder and there is a smooth taper towards the tip (of the tang) 4. Cut & remove burr - a bit shorter than the intended blade lenght. Like so; 5. Form the spine. Thickest part is where the shoulder is. Again there is a taper toward the tip. However, this time the taper need not be as pronounced, because you need material for the tip of the blade. Part B of the picture shows you what you should be aiming for. 6. Hammer the edge bevel. I start from the tang and work towards the tip. The piece starts to curve noticeably. Work both sides symmetrically 7. When making the edge bevel you can keep the blade straighter by simultanously hammering a bevel into the spine. Like so; This is where you get the 'diamond' cross section. To get a good result you will probably have to alternate between step 6. and 7., and also, straighten the blade by hitting the edge gently, the spine against the anvil. 8. Refine the shape of the blade until you get something like this 9. Make the other shoulder* just like the first, and at the same time straighten the tang. Notice the angle of the tang! *difficult to get this step right - It is often necessary to adjust the shoulders afterwards (grinding, filing) 10. Bevel & stretch the tang 11. Refine the tang until you reach something like this 12. Add makers mark, straighten, normalize..... etc. etc. If everything went well there should be relatively little grinding work to be done, and it should be easy to fit bolsters. If you are making a puukko with a birch bark handle make the tang as broad as you can.
  11. Hiya Guys, Yesterday I started my puukko for the KITH. I had an old file and wrought lying around and thought "why not?". I have never forge welded wrought and steel together before and yesterday was a bit of the ol' trial by fire (sorry, just had to be said). I got them welded up, so far so good, but now I got to forge out the shape. I am using Charcoal but can just as easily switch to coal with an old brick 1800's style forge and hand bellows. I was wondering if anyone had any pointers or advice on forging it out (i.e. how hot should I be working the steel and wrought billet)? -Gabriel
  12. Hey guys, Seeing the progress and results from this years KITH I was bitten by the bug and decided to make a puuko myself. While I didn't register for the KITH because I wasn't sure I'd be able to submit one to everyone's skill level, I wanted to participate in my own way. Forge from some left of 1075 I had laying around the blade is 4.75 in length, still playing with how long the handle will be but will have wrought iron bolster and pommel that I'll etch out. I'm planning on making a birch bark handle and am in the process of selecting, cleaning, and cutting the bark to suit. But I'm also considering doing a wooden handle as well, though not sure which variety yet. My one regret is that I didn't truly flat grind the edge bevel, I made a rookie mistake and ground the tip too thin early on and ended up burning the tip and having to re-profile to correct my mistake. So it will have a secondary bevel. Please let me know what you guys think, any hints, tips, tricks are appreciated. The wrought iron bolster is propping the blade up, still need to drill, file, and fit it.
  13. Hi all, below are a few of the projects I've been dorking around with, the past couple weeks. The first from the left, is a wrought-iron pattern-welded seax, with a 1095 edge. I intentionally over-etched it, to really define the layers, unfortunately, it had some really heavy pitting in a few spots, that maim the aesthetics. The second-over is a file-knife that I've been procrastinating; It's effectively a test piece for a later project--it'll have "dagger-ized" Petersen L hilt, when finished--it needs a bit more draw-filing before HT. Next is my KITH Puukko, and a test knife (trying out Aldo's steel); experimenting with how it works. Last one is another fiddley knife; just playing with negative space, etching, and handle-work. A bit more of the seax My KITH puukko is a 4 bar composite--a layer of wrought, two opposing 1095/"refined" wrought twists, and an edge of 1085. The inside twists were my first attempt at Damascus; really interesting to work with. I haven't found an etchant I'm thrilled with yet--once I do, some pictures will be posted. Sadly, I think I deleted my WIP of this knife, I'll try to take some more as the project progresses. More detail of the junker knives, both etched in sulfuric acid (~4M). The first, like the seax, was left in the solution for a couple hours.
  14. June is fast approaching and it is about time to get this project moving. Forged this out of 115 CrV3, because I didn't have any interesting scrap.
  15. New puukko "Kuras" is archaic Finnish and simply means "a knife". This one has a 95mm long blade (115 CrV3), edge hardened to about 62 (+/-1) Rc hardness. Edge angle 20, no secondary bevel. Cuts really nice. The handle is curly birch with brass bolsters and 100mm long. The sheath is wet formed 2mm tanned leather, with a wooden insert. It secures the knife with a satisfying "click". Any comments appreciated! P.S. sorry about the poor images (bad jpg compression).
  16. hey guys wanted to show my test/practice piece since I've never made a puukko with the nice flat grind and diamond cross section, or done a scandi style sheath. the blade is 4 7/8 and the handle is just shy of 4 1/4. coil spring curly oak and antler. let me know what you think.
  17. These days I've been making puukkos with pacific yew handles. I picked up the wood myself a couple years ago back in the mountains. Its hard stuff, between maple and hickory in hardness, as I recall. Real nice grain and color. Blades are by a Finnish smith Jaaranen. I've enjoyed the challenge of traditional Scandinavian sheathes and the various clever suspensions. Here are the pics with a few notes: Blackened wrought iron fittings Bronze fittings More bronze: AND more bronze: And my favorite: brass with vine maple, another wood I brought back from the mountains.
  18. Here are some pictures of a few recent pieces. ~Bruce~
  19. Hello all I just finished up this little puukko. This pattern welded puukko has a stacked birch bark handle. The blade is 1084, 1095, and 15N20 at about 500 layers and 1 inch wide and 4 inches long. Total length is 7 1/2 inches Unfortunately when I took the picture I didn't notice the smudge of grease but it has since been cleaned off. The fittings are brass and the sheath is basic black leather wrapped around a cedar core. This knife is razor sharp and ready for immediate use and shipping. I'm asking $300 for this knife + free shipping in the USA. PM if interested.
  20. Hello, I have been lurking around the forums for some months now and finally managed to gather enough courage for my first post. This is the very first knife I have ever made and so far only one aswell. I made it in local community college course in January this year. College provided the tools but everything from forging to sheath is self made. (You can see it in the level of finish) The blade is highcarbon steel, unfortunately I don't know any name or specifics for it. Handle is made of brass, bogote (80% sure) and curly birch. Tang goes through the whole handle and is striked flat against last brass mounting, so basically handle is attached for eternity. I'll appreciate any kudos, critique or advice you have to offer. I already have my second project ongoing but since I'm student and don't have garage, tools, time nor money it might take a while -Teemu
  21. Finished some knives... Both are wrought iron san mai with super pretty curley maple ( cut from the same block...thanks to Jared Stier!) for the handles. You really have to move it around in the light for the full effect. Not really any similarities beyond that First is a little quickie puukko-esque knife I made for fun. I did a bit of carving on it because I hadnt done any in a long time. I learned with this one that carving and buffing are, for all intents and purposes, mutually excusive . I'm still digging white compound out of the cracks...I'll probaby make a sheath for this one and put it up for sale.. The other one is something I finally finished up after about a year. A friend of mine is into film and we filmed a short video of me making the blade, but we never really got around to shooting the handle process Maybe I'll talk him into letting me post what we finished...Anyway, I had to finish this one up for a birthday. Wrought iron gaurd, nickle silver bolster, and copper spacers from an "unrolled" plumbers pipe. These last few I was just messin' about with the camera. Plants are cool. Before you ask...yeah we didnt really get a "winter" this year in the first place and most of the plants are confused and think its spring already... Thanks fer lookin'
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