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Found 7 results

  1. Trying to figure out why I have these "blisters" on my steel. It is leaf spring steel and didn't develop these marks until quench. I used clean motor oil and preheated it beforehand. And does this mean I need to start over?
  2. Hi, I'm new to bladesmithing, but I've got a fair amount of practice with wood. I just got the material for my first quench tube, an old Argon tank, and wondered if anyone had any ideas of what else I need to make it everything I need. I'll post pictures as I get things done. So fast I plan on cutting it open tomorrow and building a stand to hold and raise it. I'm not sure what I'll do for a living though. Also, if any of you live in DFW Texas the guy who supplied me with the tank said he'd love more business. Here's his most recent Craigslist, https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bfs/d/irving-120-aluminium-and-steel/7046444072.html
  3. So this will be my first official quench but my question is, since this will be a quench at home using oil, what do I use to put the oil in so I can get it up to temp before the quench? I was thinking of using a ammo can as I have a few of them lying around. How would I go about getting the oil up to temp safely? Thx
  4. Forgive the crude drawing, but a friend had an idea. Because oil and water separate, would it be possible to quench through the oil into the water very quickly then pull the blade back into the oil and out. My friend had fairly decent success going quickly into a bucket of water and then into a tank of oil. I realize that it would probably depend on the steel, but what do you think this process could potentially do for a blade. I am fairly new to bladesmithing and only just completed my first pattern welded piece. I would imagine that the forces of both mediums would create different forces on the steel. would it increase/ decrease warping? I would love to hear your thoughts.
  5. I came across some pretty cool info (I love getting new books) and wanted to share some of the highlights with you all. I did a search and couldn't find a single thread with a ton of quenchant specs so I figured it would be cool to start one where we could all just accumulate our various data. I'm thinking cooling rates, flash points, speed comparisons for different manufacturers, etc. Here is the cool stuff I wanted to start with. (I take no responsibility for the units here, they can in C and I wasn't going to re-create them just to get F.) As you can see, it looks like with water, your temperature is hugely important, but with oil, not so much. Choosing the right oil has a much larger effect than the oil temperature. Personally I'm hoping someone with a cooling curves for canola oil and engine oil (because it is asked about a lot due to the ease of access) can add them here too.
  6. I've read in different places that putting a blade through 2 or 3 heat/soak/quench cycles produces a more thoroughly hardened edge (particularly if you are using a limiter block to do an edge quench). Can anyone substantiate this? Wouldn't the process of re-heating the quenched blade effectively "wipe out" the hardening process from the initial quench? Just wondering. Thanks! - Dan Hurtado
  7. Hey Y'all I had a thought; does quenching a piece in oil prevent as much firescale, or is all the scale formed in the forge, not the quench? Also, does heating a piece in a clay sleeve prevent scale from forming? Thanks and Cheers!
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