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  1. Update: SOLD This is a piece built around undulation, from the waves of the twin serpents in the blade steel and sheath, to the bursting stars of the twists and the wavy grain of the maple in the handle. The blade is made with a W1 edge, 1095/15n20 pattern welding, and mild steel in parts of the serpent. The handle is made from curly maple stained to bring out the figure and the sheath is leather with hand textured brass fittings. The front side of the sheath has a serpent tooled onto it to match the steel of the blade. I should mention that on the rear side of the sheath, there is a s
  2. This project started in earnest last summer when I had a whole day to personally examine three late iron age archeological finds from Finland; two seax blades and one ”ango” spearpoint. I want to thank Finland’s National Board of Antiquities and especially Intendant Leena Ruonavaara for the wonderful opportunity and professional insight. My main focus was on one of the knife blades; namely the KM7752:2 a ”straight backed Finnish seax” from Perniö. It is mentioned in ”Puukon Historia I”, by Anssi Ruusuvuori, p. 64. This particular knife blade caught my imagination (to put it mildly) and I’v
  3. Forged with 150 year old wrought iron, this seax is the result of a successful experiment in fixing flaws in old material. A crack in the wrought was filed out and filled with a small piece with matching grain direction to make an almost imperceptible fix and adding to the knife's story and character. The blade is made from a three bar of composite of W1 tool steel, twisted 14 layer 1095/15n20 and a spine from antique wrought iron window bars. The handle is made from a piece of scrap walnut and matches the blade at 5" (~12 cm) long with a very subtle hourglass shape. A sheath is not in
  4. Dear fellow keepers of the flame, One of the projects on my bench is a seax that has been very long in the making. The blade was forged many years ago and has been sleeping undisturbed for a long while. When Owen organised his "Axe and Seax" event the other year I decided to bring along this seax to have something to show. It never made it, as I as distracted and could not finish it in time. Now I have set about to finally completing it. Between other projects over the past few weeks I have been working on its hilt. Attached are some photos of what it currently looks like. The grip is fr
  5. Hello, recently I forged and finished two knives. Both pattern wleded with wrough iron. The cutting edges are made of 80CrV2 tool steel. The bigger one's handle is made of: brass, leather, deer antler, leather, black oak. The smaller one's handle is made of: brass, leather, black locust burl, leather, elm wood. I hope you like them They both are looking for new owner http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=33579
  6. Just forged these three knives out, the largest one has an 8 inch blade. The seax/bowie hybrid and the large bowie are made from 5160 and will be edge quenched, the smaller Bowie is made from a rail anchor(modified 1060) and will be clay quenched in an interrupted water-oil quench to obtain a hamon.
  7. According to the Örvar-Odds saga, Hafgufa was the mother of all sea monsters and fed on whales, ships, men, and anything it could catch. Hafgufa was said to have lived underwater, and when the tide was low at night, her nose and head would rise out of the water. The only physical description provided in the saga is the nose sticking out of the water, which was mistaken for two massive rocks rising from the sea. Source: Wikipedia Blade: 5.625″ Wrought Iron Spine, 1095/15N20 Twist, 1095 Edge This blade was forged to feel like a sea creature. The middle bar is oddly twisted to look like ten
  8. Hi, everyone I was always fascinated by those wolf teeth patterns found on viking age spears and saxes but the only time I tried to make it before it was a complete failure. Anyway, I decided to make it again, excited due to a video from Niels Provos about it on Youtube. Here are some of the steps: First, with an angle grinder, I just marked the area on which I would put the "teeth". My cutting discs are about 1,5mm (1/16in) thick, then I decided to use a 2mm thick sheet of mild steel for it. As it where a bit thicker than the hole, I ground it a little, so it would be both s
  9. Hello everyone, This here is my first ever attempt at making a blade. It's forged out of 1095, 17 1/2" in length overall, with a 12" blade. What do you think of the overall blade geometry? My thought is the tip is too pointy, and I need to grind the break down to a steeper angle. Also, is the tang too wide? I think I'm probably going to burn on a simple wooden handle.
  10. I'm very excited about this project! Owen Bush has asked me to create a "Dwinesque" (similar to a seax I made in 2013) hilt and scabbard for a massive and beautiful bear-tooth pattern-welded Seax blade he forged while creating seaxes for the national geographic program about the staffordshire hoard. He wanted it to have a bear theme. Here is the initial concept sketch. I'm now waiting for bronze and working on the wood for the hilt. and here's a glimpse of the pattern—
  11. Hey all, This is a blade about 6 months in the making. The billet is 1095 with a wrought iron core, and I had forged this out at Scott Roush's place last fall. This is nothing but firsts for me, from the seax, to the fittings on the sheath. It was a great learning experience and am looking forward to making another one soon with my new found experience. As always, advice and critique are appreciated. Thanks in advance. Stats: OAL: 10 1/4 inches blade: 5 3/8, 1/4 thick at the break Vegetable tanned leather with brass sheet used for the fittings.
  12. MY FB PAGE: https://www.facebook.com/kovarstvikundera Knife inspired by the Vikings, price 100 dollars plus shipping. overall length 25 cm Blade length 14 cm Blade thickness 3 mm !! Handle 11 cm Blade: damask of top is from chain of chainsaws linear pattern. Middle damask from chain of chainsaws wild patern. Blades welded butt of 19,312 (high carbon steel) guard bronze, ash with engraving, bronze. Construction on the pin and riveted plus epoxy for sure. Handle surface : Bath from linseed oil and beeswax. cowhide leather of 3.5 mm Knife inspired by the Vikings, price is 100 dol
  13. Hi All. Some time ago I finished seven blades and handles. Actually I did my first steps with making handles. I learned a lot doing them. I think the next level after blades and handles will be sheath making :-) I put some more pictures and details on my blog: http://lipinskimetalart.blogspot.com/2015/12/kolejne-dziwery-next-pattern-welds.html If you are interested in anything more about these blades just ask.
  14. Originally seen in this thread... http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32346&hl= The commission on this knife fell through, so I am putting it up for sale. It is not my usual style, it and it's brother are the first bowies I've made in a decade, and also they are my first frame handles. A bowie in the style of Woodhead and Butcher, overall length of 17 1/2 inches. The blade is 1084 and 15n20 in a 4-bar composite pattern, with a frame-style handle of brass and Jobillo. The rearmost pin goes through the tang, scales, and handle frame. The sheath is a side-seam with
  15. Trying to replicate knife 2808 from Coppergate, York. All the information I got on it was on the book Anglo-Saxon ironwork from Coppergate, by Patrick Ottaway. This is a project that came into my mind some time ago and I got so excited about that I had to make it. Last month I made a bloomery furnace on the workshop as an experience with some friends, to show them a little of how steel was made back in time. As it was the first time I worked properly with the results of a successful furnace, I wasted almost everything on refining, cutting, folding, cleaning and so forth, as well a forging it b
  16. Huginn + Muninn “O'er Mithgarth Hugin and Munin both Each day set forth to fly; For Hugin I fear lest he come not home, But for Munin my care is more.” Above excerpt from the Poetic Edda poem Grímnismál Fast and light it swings Like Huginn’s feathered wings. Quick and brute the seax Like Muninn’s angry beak. 15″ Blade (wrought iron, 1084, 15n20, 80crv2) 5/5” Handle (wrought iron, elk antler, teak) 20.5” Overall 1.2 Pounds 2.125” POB from the hilt If you check out the build thread here you will see where this went from being a 21" blade seax to a 15" blade sea
  17. I'm pretty new and the few comments i've gotten so far on the things i've posted are very respectable, no crap from people nay saying things just constructive feedback so i figured i'd share some of my older stuff try to make a few friends and stay a while, i been doing this for 15ish years i started learning from my great grandpa when i was around 11 he passed away and i took it upon myself to try to finish learning.
  18. Double Twist Seax I’ve been sneaking in some morning practice before work this week. So far this week I was able to prep some previously forged out 10 layers stacks. I twisted two 8 inch bars and stacked them between some wrought iron from old wagon wheels. Then I welded those bars with the 1095 edge bar together with a handle for ease of forging. Next I forge welded that whole set together. That’s a fun and tricky process. The hard part is keeping the temperature consistent throughout the whole piece since the wrought iron needs to be worked at a temperature where carbon steel can burn up
  19. Hello! I have mostly lurked about this forum a lot because I'm not really a smith like you other guys. However, I would like to think I've made some decent knifes over the years and would like to show you some of my work. Short introduction. My name is Edvin Sjöberg, I'm from Sweden, 34 years and made my first knife in 2007. I studied Archaeology at Gothenburg University and also have a Bachelor degrees in Industrial Design from Gotland University. Now I have a small business named Audhumbla that makes viking style knifes and takes on different kinds of design work. I recently finished t
  20. Weston Hunting Camp: 1976 This is the finished blade that my cousins (Dan, Ken, Nick and Matt) and I made over the weekend in my forge. This will be the trophy knife that will be used like the Stanley Cup for our annual shooting contest at hunting camp. The handle still needs to be finished. It will be made from deer leg bones we found in the woods last year. Edge is 1095 center is wrought iron then a 10 layer stack of 1095/15n20 and a wrought iron spine. The blade is 5.75" with an overall of 9". I did have some problems with some of the welds only sticking halfway through. I o
  21. Here is a big seax I've been working on based around one of Greg Verizhnikov's excellent damascus blades (see the For Sale forum). 22" OAL, 15" of blade. Handle is maple and browned wrought iron. Sheath is leather with browned steel and bronze fittings. Darkened the maple with potassium permanganate. Hope you enjoy!
  22. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=27605&hl= I had not realized this blade had been setting around the shop for almost 2 years, waiting for me to notice it. The blade is 4 3/8" long, composed of 1095 (some of Aldo's old batch with the vanadium) and wrought iron joined together in a wolfstooth weld. The handle is masur birch, and the overall length is a hair over 9 inches. The sheath is made from leather, bronze, and brass. Not much else to say about it, other than I'm glad it is done. There are lots of pictures because I couldn't decide which were my favorites..
  23. Hi all, below are a few of the projects I've been dorking around with, the past couple weeks. The first from the left, is a wrought-iron pattern-welded seax, with a 1095 edge. I intentionally over-etched it, to really define the layers, unfortunately, it had some really heavy pitting in a few spots, that maim the aesthetics. The second-over is a file-knife that I've been procrastinating; It's effectively a test piece for a later project--it'll have "dagger-ized" Petersen L hilt, when finished--it needs a bit more draw-filing before HT. Next is my KITH Puukko, and a test knife (trying out Ald
  24. Greetings everyone. I got lost this winter making jewelry, but I've found my way back onto the path and finally finished a seax. I believe it's a broad seax, but I've never been good at categorizing. It's 18" overall, with an 11" blade. The blade is Aldo's 1075, 1/4" thick at the spine with no distal taper. It's 1 1/3" wide. I meant it to be straight, but it has a slight upward bend - the quench didn't curve it down quite as far as I had thought it would. I've inlaid NuGold wire (85% copper, 15% zinc) down the blade on both sides. I did it before heat treat and left the wire pro
  25. I have three spots left in my April 20-25 Patternwelded seax class at the New England School of Metalwork. last years class went amazingly well and this year should go even better in the new shop space!
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