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So im new to the forum and knife making all together. I just recently decided to purchase a 2x72 belt grinder from Diktator because of another blade forums recommendation. as you can see in one of the videos the tooling arm is very sloppy so I've shimmed it up and down. I put my feeler gauge in the side and when I tighten the tool arm down it moves .09". so after shimming the tooling arm I can get it plum vertically and the platinum plate wheels plum with the drive wheel. the issue is my tension arm no matter what I do I can not get my belt to track correctly. can anyone watch these videos and see something im obviously not???? IMG_2610.MOV IMG_2611.MOV IMG_2614.MOV IMG_2613 2.MOV

Hey guys I just purchased a new drill press ( 1 hp motor), and now I'm in the marked for a belt grinder. The one i've found has a 2" belt and a 2 hp (1.5 KW), but is that enough power for grinding scale off of steel and making stock removal knives ?

Hello, I have located what seems like a great deal- a Bader BM-2 with all sorts of wheels and attachments. The owner claims good condition. Is there anything I should look out for with these machines? How do they compare to the newer B3s? Are they compatible with B3 parts? Looking for any info I can get before jumping. Thanks in advance,

I needed to square the platen to the table on my belt grinder. I came up with the jig shown below as a way to first square the platen to the table, and second to adjust the platen to a predetermined proud distance from the wheels. I have checked around and there does not seem to be a consensus as to how proud the platen should be. I chose 1/32 inch. I made the jig by machining a 1/32 recess in a flat bar for the platen to sit in. In retrospect an easier way would have been to epoxy a piece of sheet metal 1/32 inch thick (21 gauge) to each end of a flat bar. First clamp the jig to the platen with the platen bolts loose. Next you slide the platen until it contacts one of the wheels, and tighten the platen bolts. Finally adjust the second wheel so it contacts the jig.

After only a few years of use, my 4x36 Ryobi grinder is starting to give me issues. I was flat grinding something when it started to stall. I let up on the pressure, but it persisted even when grinding small 1/8" rod with light pressure. The stalling is continuous and gets to the point where the grinder stops moving but it keeps humming like it's trying keep going. This is making me think that it's something with motor. Anyone have any ideas what I could do to fix this?

I went to the ABS Symposium in Clyde, NC and had a blast. Being a beginner I went to the sessions that were about the basics. One session was by Chris Williams of Wilmont Grinders ( wilmontgrinders.com ). His grinder has three slots for accepting the grinder attachments, tool rests, and tables. It is a bit of a chore loosening the two bolts to slide the table on and off my KMG grinding attachments so I decided to add a slot to my grinder. I purchased the cold roll steel from a local supplier (Metal Supermarket). I got a piece of 1/2 X 1 1/2 X 22 inch cold roll flat bar. and 3 X 1/2 X 11 inch cold roll flat bar. I wanted 2 1/2 wide flat bar but they did not have it. I decided to keep it at 3 inches width so it sticks out 1/4 inch on each side. The cost for those two pieces was about $35.00. I cut them down to three pieces 10 7/8 inches long each. I also purchased a piece of cold roll 1 1/2 inch square bar for about $35.00. It was a fun project. I attached photos including my drawing. If anyone decides to make one, don't forget that the holes in the uprights are .0125 inches off center. I marked the inside so I would put it together correctly. I now have to make a table.

My recently built mini grinder works OK, but it has several disadvantages due to my initial lack of experience. Several years and a lot of lessons later, now I decided to build high-end piece that suits my needs for many years to come. As a design engineer, I start all my projects with CAD, this one being no exception. The attached document is the result of many-many hours of thinking and modelling, and now I can say that the model is complete to the last screw. The machine accepts 2x72" belts both in horizontal and vertical position. Most of its plates can be cut by hand or at your local steel yard (all but one plates are 10mm thick) and welded together with some experience, while the turned components can be made with a bench lathe. It accepts most motor sizes around 1.5Hp and an optional VFD. The tooling arm and the attached components can be easily changed. I tried really hard to think about everything. But now I need your help. Many members have a lot more experience with belt grinders than me, and I could really use some input should something be changed. I greatly appreciate any opinion regarding the design. If I complete the machine, I'm gonna document the process and make all the blueprints available for free. Now let the process begin. kmg_clone_01.pdf

Hey all! I have been working on this belt grinder since last friday and I was able to complete it today! This is another tool I have been planing to build for years and it is so exciting to finaly have it in my shop! Here is a video showing how it works.