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Hi y'all, I am really new. Like this is my first design and I haven't made it yet new. I accidentally bought 1095 instead of 1084 and I realize the issues there but Im going to work through it and then switch to 1084 from when this is used up. Any ways. Here is my knife design. The idea is sort of camp cooking knife as I want to make kitchen knives but not start at a full 10" chef knife. Please let me know what you think of the dimensions and what have you. Thanks in advance.

Hi guys! I've finished this knife quite a while back but never got around to edit the videos I took and post the photos here. I chose to go with 440C for a more maintenance friendly knife since I was going to be using it a lot. After using it for over a year, I'm very surprised and satisfied with the steel's performance. Good edge retention, easy to sharpen, does not scracth as easily as 5160, for example and didn't get a patina so far. Here is a video with most of the process I went though: https://youtu.be/ELHezsRhMa8 Let me know what you guys think and how I can improove on the process, geometry, heat treat, etc... Before Sharpening: Kydex stealth molding: Finished Knife and Stealth:

Hi All, My first knife was not too good (tried to make from stainless, screwed up HT), but my second one I'm quite proud of. Made by stock removal from an old file (the one I dulled filing stainless....), using only hand tools, except for drilling the two holes in the handle. No Jigs used, mostly filing by hand (and eye) and using grindstones from my lansky-set to smooth the surfaces. HT done in purposebuilt charcoal forge from bricks, quench in sunflower oil. For my next one I hope to start with a bit of forging before I start the filing. video of het treat: 22222625_1617613648262066_7814047959703617536_n.mp4

As the title suggests this knife was something different for me and my first time working with carbon fiber. The customer approached me about wanting a larger camp knife with out the extra weight and without decreasing performance so I came up with this. The spine is 1/4 in thick (as per customers request) and has a tapered full tang that reduces to slightly under 1/8 inch. The tang was also skeletonized by drilling out holes throughout and then hollow grinding the tang to further reduce weight. The knife was also given a high flat grind to also decrease weight. The steel is Aldo's 1084 and I clayed it to achieve a hamon. The customer requested that I place the flint striker notch on the blade its self as opposed to on the ricasso or another area. Because the temper was going to be effected anyway I only hardened the blade up to the striker notch. The final weight of the knife came to 7.5 ounces which for a 1/4 inch thick spine and 12 inch long knife I think is not too bad. It could have been made lighter but I think this will do the task. As always thank you for looking and all comments, questions, and critiques welcome. Robert

Well... despite the title of this thread, I do know the Sax is not an African design. My brother is moving to Africa in a few months, courtesy of Uncle Sam. A few weeks ago he purchased a Savage Long Range Hunter rifle, the week after that he bought a Range Rover. Obviously the next thing he will need is a knife capable of taking care of, well whatever chores might happen to go along with a plains game rifle and a Land Rover. So I imediately knew I had to do a Sax, mostly because I haven't yet had the pleasure of doing my first one. Maybe second, but not sure I should cound my first since it has a RR spike handle...but that is a different story. Anyway I sat down to sketch it out and after a bit of fiddling, this is what I have: (Handle is drawn "transparent" to allow me to fit the tang into the image.) The drawing is full scale on the paper so I didn't think to put measurements on it. As currently drawn; Blade is 7 inches tip to guard/ferrule OAL is right at 12 inches. Edge to Hump on spine is 1.75 inches. The notation on wood choice (Afromosia aka African Teak) is my nod towards the blade's destination, it also happens to be georgeous and nearly as hard as steel. I am actually quite happy with the design so far, but I am debating a couple items, Layer count in the edge (288 or 576) Twist counter-twist or twist and split for cores Brass vs Nickel Silver for furniture and Oval or Octagonal cross section for the handle and furniture. Ok so thats more than a couple... I welcome any and all advice or suggestions, especially if your beard is blazing when you give it! Thanks, James