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These were both for my table at NYCKS, the blades are two differnet patternes of mosaic damascus, we got a new shop mate here at Dragons breath forge, Mereko Maumasi he is a bit of a wizard with mosaic and some of his ideas have infected me. The spidy pattern came about after showing him the parent bar and he had an idea and drew out the pattern..looked so cool I went with it. the shooting star pattern was one i came up with, putting together some things I have been playing with along with some of Marekos methods. Totally looking forward to exploring these ideas further. the spidy pattern is maple with bronze and G10 spacers the shooting star is Koa with nickle silver and G10.

Hey Folks, Here are the finished photos of a pattern welded kitchen knife I recently finished. Thanks for looking. Recycled bandsaw blade, 1084, recycled wrought iron Rosewood, brass, Birds Eye Maple, Walnut

9.5" and 7.5" Steel; BS1407 Handle; African blackwood with nickel silver pins.

Here are two kitchen knives i just finished, a gyuto and a funayuki. Both are forged from a composite bar of 4 alternating twists with a straight laminate edge. They are both symmetrical double grind and full convex with a micro bevel. Here's a link showing some of the making process. Critique and criticism very welcome, it will help me make the next ones better! Gyuto Total length: 395mm Blade length: 250mm Height: 46mm Point of balance: right at choil Weight: 230 grams Thickness after collar: 3mm Full distal taper Funayuki Total length: 280mm Blade length: 147mm Height: 44mm Point of balance: Where copper collar meets wood Weight: 195 grams Thickness after collar: 3.4mm Full distal taper Thanks for looking

In between all of the travel I have been adn doing, I managed to get theses two comissions finished up. The chef knife is 1095/15n20 in a ladder patter around 75 layers and forged close to shape. the handle is Mahogony with silver inlay and domed brass pins anf the triskel knot engraved on the blade. this is a very thin blade the spine at its thickest is just about 1/8" with full distel taper and I took the edge to aroud 0.002 before sharpening. the spear is forged from 1075/ and mild steel. the socket is brazed on as is the ring the center ridge is forge welded

I've been working with a chefs knife for a while now, and for some inconceivable reason it was to be an integral. More on that and it's farrier rasp / wrought wagon axle makeup and why I cut the tip off later. The plan is to make a set with knife for carving dried ham and sausages, a fork and maybe I'll throw in a small knife for carving hard-to-reach places on a sheeps leg. The fork is also to be made of wagon axle. This test had a rather large flaw in one tine, so it split and I had to cut it. But I'm not happy with how this rather traditional and self-given shape harmonizes with the shape of the knife. I'm thinking maybe I have to tighten up the lines a bit like the sketch in the next picture, but then I'm not sure how to forge it? It's not the easiest place to upset. It's an easy shape to make before I split the stock down the middle, but I think it'll be hard to keep it nice as I radius the web between the tines. Weld on tines could be done, but there's risk and since it's going to be etched I'd rather have a natural flow of grain. The plan is to rough bend and flatten the one I have and grind and file to refine the shape, but it'll cut the grain. Other fork suggestions?

15N20, 1095, 1080 random. Blades approximatley 7" blade with 440C full tang. The tangs are overlength for eae of handleing. HT, triple temper. Etched, ready to go, tangs are not hardened, easy drill. I have 6 left. No time to finish. $100.00 plus shipping. Contact: knives@threesistersforge.com