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Here is a camp chopper knife I made from a 12 layer Damascus billet I made from 4 layers each of 1095, 1084, and 15N20 steels. I just did an edge quench on this. The handle is made from stabilized walnut, with copper pins. Knife is very well balanced, straight, and feels light in the hands. It's kind of like a Kukri, but not quite. It's very sharp and chops great. I chopped up a piece of hard Eucalyptus branch with it and it chopped very well, and didn't loose it's edge at all, and would still slice paper and shave hair afterwards. I left some imperfections in it to give it an older, hand forged look. This is the 6'th knife I have made.

So I'm finishing my first multi bar knife, an integral chef i'm pretty happy with considering it has taken 5 tries to get there (5 forging tries, 3 handles...). I etched it three times in ferric and thought the contrast wasn't to my liking, so decided to try out instant coffee etching. I first tried it out on a former, smaller knife i had, and absolutely loved it, so in went my new knife, as well as all the others I had. Coffee etching rules!! Only one problem: Where before i had a not so contrast-ful but clean pattern, I end up with a good contrast, but lines have appeared on one side of the knife. all the other blades came out great, but not my latest, as luck would have it... any idea why? Picture attached!

Help! Newbie possibly in over his head A good co-worker of mine passed on to me a handful of steel rods. I "spark" tested them and was content with the results. I lack welding equipment so I improvised by using rebar tie wire and wrapping it in twisted knots. It's more to hold in place than anything. Tossed newly wrapped wad of 1/4" steel rods in my home made charcoal forge and heated that bad boy up. I tried to simply forge weld the ends but to no avail. Boraxed it to hell and back and re heated. Now to the over my head part.....I through the wad into the vise and started twisting them into a cable looking...thing. I've heated till it started to spark and continued to slap it with my 4lb hammer to no avail. So bear in mind: newb! Minimal equipment, lots of ambition, and willing to listen and try. Thanks for any input.

Hi, I'm new to the forum, and to knife making. This is my first post. Thought I would post a pic of the first 3 Damsacus knives I made. These are the 4'th and 5'th knives I have ever made. The two matching knives I made for my parents, and they are made from 1084,1095, and 15N20. They are 64 layers with some raindrop pattern in them. The other knife is 1095, and 15N20, and is only 24 layers. Handles are Cocobolo. The handles on the two matching knives have a partially hidden guard that I came up with as a way to fix a mistake I made. I drilled the forward tang hole too close to the guard and it would have left less than 1/4" of wood if I butted the wood up against the guard. I was afraid that would crack over time, so I wrapped the wood around the guard by cutting it out in a mill. All together I have about 70 hours in the two matching knives. Those two knives were made from the same piece of steel, and the handle scales were all four cut from one piece of wood, then one scale from each pair was used on each knife so they are truly matching knives. I tried to make a cross pattern with the raindrop pattern, but didn't come out the way I planned, so they are hard to see. Hope you like them. Any constructive criticism is welcome as I am learning. I started making knives in September. Thanks for looking!

So, I have a really large pattern welding contract coming up, and I'm working on the final prototype pieces. This set a new record for me today, so I figured sharing would be as good as excuse as any to return to one of the forums that I've neglected for way too long. I can't say what the end product is yet, but trust me, as soon as I can, I will. Today's work was a billet of 1045/1075/15n20. Just a wee tiny thing, it started at 2"x4-3/4"x10" (about 30lbs). This is to date the largest billet I've ever done, and provided that everything works out, I'll only have to do somewhere between 25 and 50 more of them! After the first weld/draw it was down to 3"x1-1/2"x~21" usable That was cut, ground, and re-stacked by 3 for 75 layers and drawn to 2-1/4"x2-3/4"x~13" usable Tomorrow I'll cut, grind, and re-stack this by 2 once more for 150 layers. Then, it will get drawn to 2-1/2" square and get the living bejeezus twisted out of it on the twisting machine I finished building not long ago, dubbed "Screwcifer". Here's a little video of the first "real" test twisting a 2" square billet. screwcifer_first_twist_2_inch.lrv I'm gonna go find some Advil....

Hey all, I know I haven't been around in a while, but it's been crazy here in Dekerville as the shop has been undergoing MASSIVE changes. Change isn't free though, and so I have a bunch of barstock here available for sale. There will be more coming, and I'm also always up for custom orders if you need something special. My shop capabilities have changed dramatically, and so I can now work much larger stock than before, and am doing surface grinding in house now. Feel free to call on me for large projects as I can handle billets up to ~30lbs now. All of my steel comes to you normalized, annealed, and precision ground unless otherwise noted. Note that the etch on this piece is simply to show an idea of the pattern. Contrast should be more pronounced after heat treatment and finishing. Shipping is via USPS flat rate box, and I'm happy to combine multiple orders into one shipment. You pay the shipping, I'll pay the insurance. On to the show! I'll add additional posts to this thread for each available piece. "Pseudorandom" Pattern Welded Steel Billet - .190"x1.25"x14" SOLD! Stock #: 20181017-Random1 This is a .190"x1.25"x14" billet of 1084/15n20 steel in a "Pseudorandom" pattern.

Hi !! I had some problems with my computer, so still i have to make and add my bearded photo. But now i will show you my new knife project. Blade is made of 15n20, 1070 damascus and i try to make handle with some stainless damascus parts. Stainless damascus i made of 304 and 416L (? in my country 4h13 or 1.4034).

These were both for my table at NYCKS, the blades are two differnet patternes of mosaic damascus, we got a new shop mate here at Dragons breath forge, Mereko Maumasi he is a bit of a wizard with mosaic and some of his ideas have infected me. The spidy pattern came about after showing him the parent bar and he had an idea and drew out the pattern..looked so cool I went with it. the shooting star pattern was one i came up with, putting together some things I have been playing with along with some of Marekos methods. Totally looking forward to exploring these ideas further. the spidy pattern is maple with bronze and G10 spacers the shooting star is Koa with nickle silver and G10.

Hey guys, so I've been forging for several years now and just got set up for forge-welding, I read these forums everyday so I have seen a few posts about what type of steels to use, the problem is I'm not gonna drop a ton of money on steels, I'm mostly a scrap hunter. I want to do a damascus blade, I know normally you go with known metals that will offer a high contrast, I have some leaf spring, some mild steel, a massive industrial saw mill blade, several bandsaw blades and files and some stainless. My hope is that some combo of these metals will create a decently vivid contrast will forge welded. Anybody have a suggestion out of those materials? Sorry for the lengthy question, apparently there is wisdom in wine but only rambling and over-explanation in bourbon. Thanks in advance.

400 layers of 1084 and 15&20, 1/4 hollow ground, 3" cutting edge, 10" overall open, 6 5/8" closed length. Handle scales and wedge are maroon linen mycarta, brass pins and washers. Includes zippered pouch. 125$ shipped in continental US. I take check, money order, or PayPal. If paying by check or money order I will ship once the check clears the bank. If using PayPal I will ship next business day, or same day if post office is still open. I ship priority mail and include tracking number. Please email for more pictures or questions. William Courtney

Hey everyone, just wanted to post a few custom orders I recently finished. First up is a Damascus EDC Neck Knife with a full saya and a tethered mekugi. Furniture is wenge and spalted maple + leather and copper and mosaic pins Next up is an extended blade version of the cleaver, this time with a horizontal leather hip holster. Furniture is a nice cut of cocobolo + copper and mosaic pin. Finally, a damascus friction folder. Blade is a drop point, furniture is walnut with a bubinga spacer and copper pins Thanks for looking! All comments/discussion welcome -Grant

Dog Bone Quillon Dagger This is the dagger from the pinned WIP on this forum. Blade: 300+ layer 1080/15N20 ladder Damascus from Randy Haas at HHH Damascus.Guard and Fittings: 4140, mild steel, stainless steel. Hot blued.Handle: Mammoth ivory with stainless pins and escutcheon plate.Sheath: Leather and deerskin belt sheath by Tony Beard.Blade length: 10-5/8"OAL: 15-3/4"$2600 Shipped in the US. Outside the US, please message me.Prefer Paypal. Most other forms of payment accepted. Email moosetrax@live.com

Hey all. I was wondering if anyone had a chart or info on how different steels etch, compared to each other. For instance, I know that high-alloy, high-carbon steels, like 52100 and 5160, etch pretty dark, and high chrome steels, lik L6, etch bright. Does anyone have a list, or just a condensed chart on how a lot of steels etch? Thanks.

Hello! Yesterday I started new project - pattern welded pipehawk. It is my second attempt to forge pipehawk. I started with a sketch with dimentions: And then I cut pieces of steel for billet, one were made out of 50HF spring steel and S235 low carbon steel, and second out of 50HF and NCV1, Billets ready for forge welding, the bigger one have 30 layers and 1640 gram of weight, smaller one has 20 layers and 888 grams of weight. Few pictures of forging using power hammer, fluxing and heating up. Billets ready for grinding, cutting and welding After welding both have 120 layers, I marked and forged the bigger billet into the U-shape Now is time to forge the pipe: When the pipe is ready, I improved it's shape and then I cut out piece of smaller billet for a blade. When everything is alright, it's time for forge welding entire hawk. The pipehawk after forging: At the end of this day I finished the pipe on a lathe. Now it's weight is 890 grams. Enjoy

I have a new design that I am very excited to show you all today! I recently saw a traditional kiridashi from Japan, it had a wood saya and it got me thinking about a new knife design. This knife features a full shirasaya and a necklace. The blade is held firmly within the saya and can be worn around the neck using the necklace. It can then be easily drawn with one hand, and the saya will be left around your neck attached to the necklace. Now here's the really cool part, if you don't want to wear it around your neck, the necklace has clasps that can be opened and allow the necklace portion to be easily removed. Once you remove the necklace, you can carry the blade around in your pocket like a pocket knife. The shirasaya and blade are designed to be very compact and lightweight, creating a very versatile blade for many situations. Now for the specs: OAL of shirasaya: 5.5" Blade length from tip to start of handle: just under 3" Blade width: ~.75" Blade thickness: .17" Furniture: Walnut with cocobolo spacers, leather wrap and necklace with aged brass clasps, and a mosaic pin I see this blade being used best as a self defense and utility knife. It would also function very well for woodworking uses like as a marking knife or for carving. I'm asking $SOLD for this one, ships free USPS priority in the contiguous USA. PayPal preferred Feel free to post questions or comments, first one to say "I'll take it" gets it. You can also contact me at YozakuraForge@gmail.com. Thanks for looking! -Grant

Just finished this little thing in order to finance some motorcycle restoration and preparation for the summer vacation. Blade length: 11 cm Hardness at edge: 58 HRC Handle length: 13 cm Blade stats: Two bars of 15 layers folded and twisted 15n20 and 15-steel, in a sanmai lamination with Øberg-steel in the middle. Handle stats: 2800 year old Russian bog oak from Siberia, vulcanized fiber, brass sheet, copper, and mosaic pin. The blade is reaaally thin - like 2,7mm thick. Flexes ever so slightly. I hope to make the sheath by next weekend.. I have so much screwing around (literately) to do with my bike atm. Sincerely, Alveprins.

Hi all! I"m new to this forum and also to forging knives. Only some two years. I wanted to show you all some of my recently finished knives and also get some input. The damascus is all forged by me and is 15n20 with either 1095, W2 or 52100 This first one is a laddered crushed W 190 mm gyuto. Handle is desert ironwood burl with copper and ebony spacers. Ferrule and endcap is sperm whale tooth. Saya made from american walnut with pin of whale bone. This next one is a laddered 240 mm kiritsuke. Koa with ebony/buffalo spacers. Ferrule and endcap buffalo Here is my first try at a composite blade. 210 mm gyuto 3x maidens hair twist with 15n20 in between. Handle made from ebony with sterling silver and swedish moose bone spacers.

I have for you today a cleaver style damascus neck knife with a full wood saya and leather necklace. The blade is made out of 15n20 and 1095 damascus with a teardrop pattern. It has a convex bevel, and features a ricasso near the handle. The handle itself is a sandwich style and is made of wenge and zebrawood. There are two pins used in the handle, one small copper one and one larger copper and brass mosaic pin. The saya is hand carved and made of zebrawood. There is a leather wrap around the saya that connects to a leather necklace via two brass clasps with an aged patina. The blade is held in the saya by a small wenge pin attached to a short leather string. The pin can be easily popped out and will hang from the leather string that is attached to the necklace so that you won't lose it. The blade has been sharpened up to 6000 grit on waterstones, and is etched enough that you can feel the texture of the steel. OAL: 4.25"Blade Length: 2"Blade Width: just under 1.5"Thickness: 3/16"Materials: 1095 and 15n20 damascus, wenge, zebrawood, copper, brass, leatherThis would be a great EDC blade for self defense and utility. It is very compact and easily carried, while still having a comfortable two-fingered grip. The lack of a stabbing tip on this blade means it can be legally carried concealed or unconcealed in many states. I'm asking $SOLD for this blade, ships free anywhere in the contig. U.S. First one to say I'll take it gets it, feel free to email me at YozakuraForge@gmail.com, PM me, or post a comment if you have any questions or would like to claim the blade.Thanks,Grant

This is the seax blade I welded up and forged out in my demo at Grizzy Iron works in Phoenix AZ last Feb, Totally welded with out flux or oil under Grizz's chambersburg 300 utility hammer. The bolster is moose antler and the handle is stabilized sycamore

I started this sword last Jan In Peter Johnssons sword class at tannery pond forge in NH. I got is as far as as rough assembly then it sat untill I had time ... well i decided to take the time and get it finished for my table at blade show in june, the blade is a little over 500 layer random pattern damascus of 15n20 and 1080, the furniture is nicely figured wrought and I set two 12mm carnelian cabochons in the pommel . the grip is a maple core with cord and leather wraps. the sword is a take down, and is held together with a pommel nut, that is shaped to appear as a peen block. enjoy, and you can check it out in person at table 21-o. Enjoy guys, pro pics to come

Good day, my friends!I want to offer some mosaic blades. All blades are hardened(58-60HRC) and polished. Cutting edge is twisted pattern.Steels:1095+O1.Body is made of 15n20+pure nickel+1095 1)125*28*4.5.Price 100$+shipping 2)125*32*4.Price 140$+shipping

Strips of 15N20 for sale. The pieces are cut 1 1/2 inches wide. They are 0.078 inch thick. Lengths are 6 inch, 7 inch, 8 inch, and 9 inch. The steel is annealed. The "gullet" or "clip" is still on the pieces but the measurements are for full width and length. I have used this steel for damascus making for many years. I'm out of the Damascus making business now. I am not a professional supplier, just closing down the Damascus making part of what I do.Prices are as follows:6 inch pieces...........50 cents each7 inch pieces...........75 cents each8 inch pieces........1.00 each9 inch pieces........1.25 eachShipping is extra but not that bad in flat rate boxes.Contact: raymond@damascusknife.comYou can see this steel in Damascus I have made at: http://www.damascusknife.com

my name is Aaron Breda 19yo. , i normally make custom gunparts but i have recently found a passion for knife making. this is the first knife i have made with the intention to sell, its a fixed blade, Damascus,Tanto style blade with box elder burl stabilized and dyed wooden handles. the blade was etched and then slighly polished. knife also has file work down the spine of the blade all the way down to the hilt. this knife is handmade im not sure on a price since i have never sold a knife that i have made, but it is the only one on the planet and i do not plan on making another with the same design. so i guess ill auction her off , starting bid 100$

Made a small damascus blade using sickle sections from a combine and some steel from cultivator sweeps. Tons of this stuff on the prairies and all free. Both really good grades of 1080 steel.

Here is the latest thing to emerge from my shop, and just in time too, I have to deliver it tomorrow! Unfortunately, that means I don't have the time to take any really good pics. Specs: 1095/15N20, 7.5" blade, 12" OAL. Nickel-silver (Ni/Si) fittings with minor silicon bronze spacer. Black micarta scales and rope filed frame. Flush Ni/Si pins.