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So, it is said that in order to make progress one must get out of one's comfort zone... so - I started a little project. About 75 hours into it atm. Still lots to do. Still need to complete background removal, then do the shading of the scrolls and leaves... And the do it all again on the other side... And then there is the guard, handle, sheath... yeah.... ... The road is long and perilous. Already made a few mistakes. Alright, that's it for now.. Have a wonderful weekend everyone! I know where I will be... bent over my microscope cutting steel... Sincerely, Alveprins.

I don't know how interesting this is, but.. been working on a birthday present for the lady of the house this weekend.. I used a piece of 15n20 nickel steel and engraved a simple design in relief, with 24k gold inlay in the heart as well as four 0,03ct white diamonds around. Currently I'm working on the bail, which will be in 925 sterling silver. cut shape, drilled holes and bent it this morning before work. I have a silver chain left-over from the work I did last year, so I will use that for the necklace. 14 hours into it at this point. Have a nice week everyone!

Hi all! First - some lore! Disguised as the wanderer "Grimnir" - the god Odin once told the young Agnarr - son of King Hraudung about the god's two companions. He told the young prince about the two ravens - Hugin and Munin; which every single day flies all over the earth and brings news and tidings back with them. Grimnir (Odin) said the following: Old norse: Huginn ok Munin fljúga hverjan dag Jörmungrund yfir; óumc ek of Hugin at hann aftr né comiþ, þó siámc meir um Munin. Modern English: Hugin and Munin fly each day over the spacious earth. I fear for Hugin, that he come not back, yet more anxious am I for Munin. An interesting thing to take in here, is that the name Hugin means "thought" while Munin means "memory". Design: As I was - a while back - asked to create a knife based on Hugin and Munin, I came up with the concept of an "Iron Feather" as I thought it fitting. I formed the blade edge to curve more or less identical to that of the upper beak of a common raven, and gave the tip a bit of a broken back as to give it a bit more of an aggressive point as well as a slight reference back to the more traditional seaxes. I forged the pattern welded steel in a very high layer count in order to crate something similar to fine lines as seen in feathers. When observed in sunlight - the blade displays a shimmering almost 3d-effect. The blade is in two bars 1056 layers of folded and twisted farrier's rasps and 15n20 steel, engraved and inlaid with copper and 24kt gold. The handle is in stabilized black Hornbeam, with a bolster in Inconel 718 -engraved in a relief w. inlaid copper and gold - as well as the names of Hugin and Munin on each side. The sheath is in 4 layers of 2mm thick leather with a frame of hand cut and brightly polished brass. Knife stats: Blade length: 13cm Blade width: 2,8cm Blade thickness: 3,8mm Handle length: 13cm Weigh W/O Sheath: 153 grams Hardness at edge: 58 HRC And then there is, of course.. a few pics.. And that's about it! Alright, gonna sharpen this baby up and get a certificate going. Delivering this one in person tomorrow. Have a wonderful .. week? I suppose... Sincerely, Alveprins.

Hi guys, I've been working on this little side-project for the past week - and thought I'd give a little sneak-peek. I've decided to go with a new makers mark for myself. This one is the first one of it's kind - and is in a deep relief with copper inlay. In the future all my makers marks will be 24k gold inlay. (still in the mail unfortunately...) Thought I'd give a shot at a dagger - and finished the blade in it's entirety today. about 40 hours work on the blade. (not including pattern welding. Had a bar lying around...) Have a great week! Sincerely, Alveprins.

So, I had an engraving thread here a while back (link HERE) and since then I've made some progress. I just finished Sam Alfano's "Deep Relief Sculpting" instructional video: And here is my result! Of course I could not help but improvise a bit as I am a slave to details... As a first try - I am quite happy with the outcome. Next time I want to combine it with inlay as well. I can't wait to use this technique for my next blade project... I can imagine using this technique on the blade, as well as metal details for handle and / or sheath. Combined with some sort of inlay - I think this will work out great! If you guys would like to see some images from the process with explanations - leave a comment in this thread, and I'll see about making a little compilation. Sincerely, Alveprins.

Alright, so... better late than never... Let me present "Odal" - the Heritage knife. Details on the blade can be found in my previous post HERE. Handle is in walnut, supplied by customer - treated with oil - also provided by customer (he makes his own). I decided to attempt to further develop both my drawing skill as well as engraving - so I sketched up a Urnes inspired dragon on my pad and put one on each side of the bolster. The back cap (or whatever it is called) on the handle is in the same steel as the blade. I've also done some inlay on this one, with a border of brass and a Odal rune in copper. Blade length is 10cm, while handle length is 12,5 cm. One of the shorter knives I've made, but the customer insisted on a blade this short... Anyhow, enough text... here's some pics. Hardness at edge is around 58 HRC. Alright, so .. that's pretty much it folks! Wish you all a wonderful week! Sincerely, Alveprins.

Alright, so I am preparing to do some serious inlay work on a blade I am working on. I've never done this before - so I figured I'd start with some test plates. After making myself a flat point chisel graver and a brass punch today, I cut a deep groove into some 15n20 steel I had lying around, cut into the bottom of the groove from both sides to lift up "teeth", and then proceeded to punch the 1mm copper wire into it. Went surprisingly well. Next step will be to cut grooves in the form of runes into a piece of steel, harden it, and then do inlay - as this will be the most likely method I will use on the actual blade. It's not much, but it is a start. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.

Though its simple, I was exited about this since it is my first successful attempt at differential hardening and my first actual commission. Its a basic integral with some kind of purple-red tropical hardwood scales and nickle silver pins. The custom part was engraving the bolster with an anniversary date in roman numerals and tooling for the sheath. I also extracted the filings from the handle scales in alcohol and used it to dye the sheath which seemed to work well. Steel was an old cold chisel quenched in oil with some high temperature pipe insulation cement for the spine. I only took it up to 400 as I was figuring on it getting used and cleaned with a scotchbright pad. Etched in vinegar to bring the line out a little. Also chose to leave in some flaws from sloppy forging rather than grind thinner. Of course I failed to take some decent pictures before it left. Hammer engraving the bolster was the hardest part and came out barely tolerable. I did the layout electronically and glued the paper to the bolster which did not work very neatly, should have tried some king of solvent transfer. Even unhardened the steel took the edge off my home made engravers in single cut though they work ok on mild steel. Wound up hammering on a commercial push engraver. Would appreciate any critique. Thanks for looking!

Engraving a couple of new steel tags for another Roger Bergh and SaraMi axe. And noticed that this part of the forum has been quiet for a while.. Hope this will liven it up a bit

It's been a while since I posted a show and tell. I started a blog, and need photos to go along with the stories, so you guys are now unwitting victims of my relentless pursuit of infamy. I finished this little craft knife about a week ago. I then listed it on Etsy and posted it here on the For Sale forum. This morning, on my way to mailing a parcel that is going all the way to California I stopped at a garden where there is a ginkgo tree growing a couple of yards inside the fence. We had a bit of a storm last night, so I managed to pick a number of fallen leaves off the ground outside the fence without having to trespass. I love ginkgo leaves, having used them as a theme for a couple of years and I always keep a couple of leaves for reference. With our move two months ago all my dried leaves got crushed. Back home I considered the day's work when inspiration struck. I immediately deactivated the Etsy listing for this knife; don't want it to sell while I am busy tripling its value! I did a couple of layout sketches, each leaf a simple half rounds with a stem. When I was happy with the composition I made a number of copies, cut each leaf from the paper and glued it onto the metal I chose for the inlays: Copper, brass and nickel silver Each leaf was then sawn using a jeweller's saw fitted with a 0/5 blade. I broke only three in the process. Each is sawn at a slight angle, the bottom of the inlay must be larger than the top to allow the raised edge of the pocket to trap the inlay when the edge is tapped down with a punch. From the right, 1 - copper, 2 - nickel silver, 3 - brass, 4 - copper, 5 - nickel silver, 6 - brass and 7 - copper. I transferred the layout from one of the copies using carbon paper, then went over the outlines with a permanent marker. In the pic below you can see that the first copper leaf is in place, and I have raised the edges and started cutting the hollow for the nickel silver leaf that fits against it. After carving it will look like the nickel silver leaf is partially beneath the edge of the copper leaf. It takes some careful filing of the abutting edge to ensure a tight fit. All inlay and carving work is done using hammer and chisels, I also use various punches to set the raised edges. Next instalment I'll show a bit more of the inlay process and the carving. Thank you for looking, questions, comments welcome. Tiaan

This is one of the most challenging piercings I have done. It's an example of a certain type of project where you don't finish the piece, the piece finishes you. I could work many more hours on it but an end point presents itself when you pull back and say, "OK, I'm done". It's not exactly saying "good enough" as in settling for something less than is desirable, but more like an acceptance of ones place in relationship to perfection. The subject is Hemlock needles. These needles often release in June around here and can be seen in large quantities where they have drifted down to the ground or gathered in rocky crevices carried by water. This piece is in copper with three needles added in 18k gold and is part of a larger sculpture in Vera wood. The first step was drawing a pattern from Hemlock needles I had randomly cast(as in thrown) against the nearly finished wood-carving which will host the needle carving. I drew these directly on the copper as seen in the lower photo. This was designed with some strength built in so the piece would hang together. The smaller photo is about scale(60mm long). I'll put up other progress pics later.

Part of a recent sculpture, I made this feather in shibuichi (40%silver/60% copper) and shakudo (4% gold/ 96% copper). Both of these alloys were made for me by Phillip Baldwin of Shining Wave Metals. I chose this alloy of shibuichi for patina reasons that will be explained later. The inlaid shakudo quill makes a striking contrast. I modeled the feather from one from Jean's collection. Sadly I don't know what it's from. I'm making up a tutorial with more photos but this should give the basic idea. The smaller photo should be close to life-size in a full browser(38mm or 1.5"). More photos to follow