Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'file'.
Found 9 results
-
This was just an experiment to see how large of a blade I could get out of an old file. Ended up with something like a half-sized Oakeshott XVIIIa
-
Hi, I was hoping someone could help me with a problem. I am making a knife out of an old metal file which I bought from a car boot sale. Because I’m going to work it by hand, I tried to remove the hardness of the file in my homemade charcoal forge. I got the file to a bright yellow in colour, but when I removed it, it seems to have broken into two pieces, and partially melted! There is also a mound of metallic stuff attached to the bottom of my forge. Is there a reason for this? Did I screw up somewhere? Do you think the steel is still salvageable? Thanks, Joe
-
hey guys i was just wondering if you could explain how the decorative filing on japanese blades is accomplished. Yes, I do know it is done with the file and I have done perpendicular file marks using the corner of a file but there must be some trick. Whenever I try the file does not cut a straight line or it skips. I really want to know how to do the "Kesho" pattern. If you look at some howard clark blades and nihonto the filing is near flawless! Thanks!
-
Hi all, I am knifemaker from Czech republic, and I want to share and offer my work. this one is forged from old file, parcialy hardened and on handles is cherry wood from my garden :-) lengh is 28cm price is 100dolars
-
I ground my third knife today from a file. The first knife was forged and heat treated, the second was ground and tempered twice at 400 degrees +- 5 degrees. This time I tempered a file three times at 400 degrees +- five degrees for 1 1/2 hours, letting it cool in the oven to room temperature between cycles. I then ground a knife. I tested the file tang before I ground the blade and it easily bent about 30 degrees and then back to zero. I ground the knife and did the brass rod test on the middle part of the blade and it passed at 30 pounds force. The tip failed, staying deformed. The very tip bent with minimal pressure. I put the knife in a vise to see if the body would bend, and it snapped in two. So, what is going on? is this uneven tempering or over tempering, or something else. Also, the tip did not change color during grinding so I do not think it overheated. I would appreciate any help.
-
Started making a mushroom hunter's/utility knife for an avid mushroom and ginseng hunter. The steel is from a Nicholson file and I plan to have the handle made from walnut with pewter bolsters. There are some interesting looking swirls in the blade upon etching. Not quite sure how that happened. Maybe someone can tell me? I normalized 3 times, quenched twice in canola oil, and tempered 3 times at 450F. I was worried that I may have messed up the heat treat but the blade can be bent and returns to its original shape and it holds quite a nice edge. Let me know your thoughts!
-
Hey, I have been trying to source some good files for a week or so, and I am wondering where you guys order your files from. right now, I have a 12" mill bastard hardware store nicholson, and I have heard that the hardware store files are cheaper quality. anyways, I have heard lots about simonds multi-kut, and nicholson magicut, but i seem to be having a hard time finding them somewhere I can order them from. Also, related to this topic, is what is your favorite files in sequence from course, to final file before sandpaper? are double cut any good? can you go both ways, or do you only "draw" or just "push" the file? Don Fogg on Arctic fire 2021 demonstrates files cutting both ways. I trust Don's experiance, but is this the correct way? I'm curious. Sveinn
-
This was a knife I made a couple of years ago for a friend who works at a pharmacy. It is made from a 1095 file, the wood is poplar that I aged to a darker color, and the fittings are of a mix similar to pewter (no lead though). I made this in 2 days which is significantly faster than I normally work. The back of the pommel was engraved (pretty badly as it was my first try at it and was done with a pocket knife) with the logo of his pharmacy, an outline of the U.S. on a mortar and pestle. This was also the first time I used my forgemark and it didn't turn out well on this one.
-
This was the first knife I ever made a few years ago. It was inspired by a few aspects of the Lord of the Rings props. I didn't take very many photos of the process as it was not much of a process. At this point no one had taught me anything about bladesmithing and so everything that went into this knife was from my own experimentation. The steel is a 1095 file, the wood is cocobolo, and the pommel and guard are made of an alloy I was working on at the time that looks gold, doesn't oxidize, and is more wear-resistant than steel so it stays shiny (it is by no means as strong as steel though). You can see the difference between it and brass as the rivets in the handle are normal brass and have a different color.
