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This is my latest Bowie. Hand forged from 1095 high carbon steel. The guard is from 1018 mild steel. The handle is Sonoran Desert Ironwood. The overall length is 15-1/4 inches.
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Little forged wood marking/kiridashi style knife for a fellow artisan. Completely forged to shape from a file end with forged finish edges. Smoothest forging I have ever done. Pretty amateur work for some of the people around here but I'm proud enough of it to give it away to a mates husband. Bevel was established with hammer then HT and tempered before grinding and polishing on king stones. Single bevel 8000grit edge. Shaves like a dream. Should be a small little handy tool.
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Hey all. Lit the forge for the first time in 18months and decided to get a little hammer swinging in. Forged this little wood marking knife/kiridashi style thing for a mates husband who does wood working. She said he doesn't have one so a perfect opportunity to practice forging before I get into making that "Apple Knife". This piece was a cut off file tang and has been hand hammered to shape. I know for alot of you reading this it's a nothing project but after an hour of forging and checking, thermal cycling and heat treating my arms are toast. I'm tempering it as I type this and hope to grind it tomorrow. Single bevel obviously. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out for my first run out of the gate, does anyone have any feedback?
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I'm a newbie getting a shop together on a budget. I have one inch tread plate steel for material. After doing some research I want to make a coal/charcoal forge that is water cooled like an English side blast forge but bottom blast on an electric blower. My question is...couldn't I make a fire pot with a connected tuyere go into a one inch plate (hearth) and under that plate, a few inches of water connected to a tank of water like a side blast forge. So basically the fire is sitting in a one inch thick inverted pyrimid, partially submerged surrounded by water on the bottom. With the outside pipe of the tuyere going through water for a few inches then coming out of the bottom to the ash dump and blower... why cant I find anything like this? Am i missing something? Or will all that water keep the it from getting to the proper temp? It sounds like it would be really efficient and keep everything from melting/wearing in my head. Even maybe a connection for a garden hose to cirrculate fresh water in. It would never melt ?? I really want to build this and start forging. any input appreciated. Thanks.
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3 1/2" blade forged from 5160, etched satin finish with hammer marks left on flats. 8 3/4" overall length. Epoxy impregnated 550 paracord wrap, kydex sheath with leather belt loop. Price includes zippered pouch and shipping in CONUS. I can supply a teclock if desired. SOLD I take check, money order, or PayPal. If paying by check or money order I will ship once the check clears the bank. If using PayPal I will ship next business day, or same day if post office is still open. I ship priority mail and include tracking number. Please email for more pictures or questions. William Courtney
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Forged 5160 blade, 4 3/8" cutting edge, 9 3/4" overall. Etched satin finish, forge marks on ricasso. Handle is epoxy impregnated paracord and leather. Leather spacer for the base to give a thicker side profile, orange paracord underlayment, black overwrap and Turk's head guard. Epoxy is soaked in at each stage of the handle's construction. Heavy leather vinagroon dyed sheath. Includes zippered pouch. 125$ shipped in continental US. I take check, money order, or PayPal. If paying by check or money order I will ship once the check clears the bank. If using PayPal I will ship next business day, or same day if post office is still open. I ship priority mail and include tracking number. Please email for more pictures or questions. William Courtney
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Heya guys, You know what time it is! Let me know if any of these blanks interest you and we'll get them into your hands. 80CrV2, already heat treated. Has a fun lanyard hole/loop that'll provide an extra challenge. A customer already has their eye on this one - I would need you to finish it and slap my provided micarta on. We will agree on how to divide profits privately. Email at TheoRockNazz@gmail.com. TheoRockNazz.com 1095 fighter, already heat treated. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics) 80CrV2 cleaver/chopper... clopper?..cheaver? Already head treated. Has inverted distal taper. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics) 1095 thick chef's knife, heat treated with temper line. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics)
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Hi All, So while trying to find some images of my grinder build for someone I realised I have the images of my first knife here at work. I have shared this on the Aussie Knife Forum, but not here, so here goes. This is the post i copied and pasted from the other forum back in January - Have learnt tonnes since this and have a 72" grinder and a gas forge now. "So i thought i would share my first knife and its journey. Like most (?) we all started off very ambitiously i presume. I built the forge, and the tools to use at said forge. Then learnt a bit more (thanks youtube) and decided i would give this knife thing a go. Brought some 1075 and was told to go stock removal for a first. Check, did that. It wharped on HT so i tried to straighten it. Snapped the first 35-50mm off of the gyuto kitchen knife. Hmmm... So then changed plans and decided to make a Santoku(esk) knife. Fired up forge and went at forging my first blade from what was left. Nice! Then HT. Was straight, WINNING! Ok, back to files... Doh! this sucked. So I inverted my hand held belt sanded. Much better. Anyway, i can ramble on for ever about the process but i know you all came to look at the images. I am truly hopeful some of you out there will be able to provide some well thought out constructive criticism and/or as questions of why i did what i did so i can explain and then perhaps receive more feedback. So please have at it!!! Again, this is the first knife i have ever made, first HT (sort of), first temper, first polish, first handle, first WA handle, first everything... Here are some stats."Knife:Material - 1075Cutting edge - 170mmOAL - 325mmHeight at Heel - 50mmWidth at Heel - 3mm Tapered to - 1.2(ish)mmHandle:Material - Swamp Mahogany and CopperLenght - 150mmHeight @ ferrule - 28mmWidth @ ferrule - 25mmHeight @ end - 30mmWidth @ end - 28mm
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This is a blade that's been in the work for months, finally I am happy to be able to show it off! This concept came to me quite some time ago, and it took me winning Forged In Fire to finally scrounge up to the funds to move forward on. The handle and general blade shape was waterjet cut from 1/2" thick 5160 spring steel, then forged to shape from there. Had to get inventive with some stuff - sanding the twisted areas was a nightmare - ended up leaving bits of forge finish some places because I wanted to allude to it's forged nature. I gently hot blued the handle to protect all the nooks n crannies. Overall I am very happy with this knife; it's sharp as the dickens and light in the hand. Let me know what yall think, Theo
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So I am experimenting with this new handle material I made up that I call Impregg. It's sanitized and crushed egg shell, mica powder, and G-Flex epoxy. It's got some really neat depth to it, you can see through the gaps between shells to the swirls of mica powder inside. The tang is left rough and the material is "cast" directly onto it. I feel it will work really well for my integrals especially. Please let me know what you think, I plan on using it in a little upcoming series. Hand forged S7 high carbon steel camp knife with integral guard. Impregg handle and wenge insert. This knife features a forged thumb rest that gives you wonderful control over the blade for most tasks. Hand forged W2 high carbon steel camp knife with integral finger rest. Impregg handle and 3D printed cast bronze medallion with my logo incorporated. Please let me know what yall think! Theo
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Hello, this axe is now going up for sale, i did a work in progress on it over in the edged tools subforum of bushcraftuk (http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141510) This axe was forged entirely by hand, and the haft handcarved from a locally sourced piece of ash. Here are some specifications: Edge length is 100mm (4") - total length is 475mm (18,7") - weight is 885 grams (just under 2 pounds) The head is forged from a solid block of mild steel, with a slit and drifted eye. The edge has a laminated ck60 cutting edge. The price is 170£ / 200€/ 1500Dkk / 225$ + shipping If interested you can contact med at: visti.knifeworks@gmail.com or send me a PM Next to a GB sfa for reference Best regards Peder Visti
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Hello, i recently finished my journeymans-test, and so have a bit of time to focus on axes again. So here is another one: Edge length is 100mm (4") - total length is 475mm (18,7") - weight is 885 grams (just under 2 pounds) The head is forged from a solid block of mild steel, with a slit and drifted eye. The edge has a laminated ck60 cutting edge. The haft is ash from the local sawmill. As forged: A bit of grinding later: and finished: a comparison with the well-known GB sfa: Best regards Peder Visti
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Hello, i had the idea of starting this thread because i like forging as close to the final result as possible, i am sure i am not alone. This is supposed to be a picture thread, used to show our knives, tools, axes, spears, etc. as they leave the forge, mods if this is the wrong place for this, feel free to move it. I will start: I did these 2 kitchen knives yesterday and today, forged from 6x35x80mm o2: Lets see if this catches on! Peder Visti
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I spent all my summers as a youth, at the countryside, right next to a river. So obviously I devoted a lot of my time casting lures with a spinning reel. Pike and bass the name of the game. I am ashamed, that I never thought of doing this before. It's böhler "leuku" and uddeholm "crane" 30ish layers, only some showing. Heat treated and tempered. Half of the front side has the temper colour still showing, to mimic "belly and back" Slight distal taper from middle towards both ends, bevels only on the frontside. The backside has hammer finish for superior accented reflection action. I got to try it for 45 min yesterday. Pike just love it! I got 2 and one flashed a stomack, no pics, they were too small, I let them live. The curvy shape and slightly offset hook, makes it swim and flow, ohh so, gracefully.
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Hello, everyone! Long time no post--I imagine most of the folks on here won't even remember me, these days . After forging my first knife under the guidance of Tai Goo about 7 years ago, I visited a couple local bladesmiths to help me learn a bit more, but after that, I dove into leatherworking because I was living in apartments and couldn't set up my own forge. Now, though, I have a house, so I built a forge and got myself a fairly wimpy little old anvil. Probably about 5 years ago, now, I visited Cris Anderson with a bar of 1084FG and a plan to make a tanto, and he helped me shape the tip and get a bevel started, which is what you can see in this image: Now that I have my own set up, I was excited to finally get back to work on it! I still have more to do, but here it is with a base bevel down the entire length: Right now, most of the edge is about nickel-thickness, or a little thicker, so I still have some thinning to do on the edge. There is also a bit of a twist at the tang, but I can fix that (I think ): I'm not really going for a fully traditional tanto with this project, but it's a fun thing to play with. When I put the bevel in, it curved quite a bit, as you would expect, and I took about half the curve out of it with a chunk of wood, but I wasn't sure how much to take out of it, at this point. I was planning to try claying it up and doing a differential hardening, despite the fact that 1084FG doesn't take a hamon all that well, and as I understand it, quenching in oil (which is my plan) will have a tendency to cause negative sori and straighten the blade out. With that in mind, I left some curve in it, but maybe my thought process is off? In any case, once I thin the bevels out to where I want them, and take the twist out, I plan to take it to the belt grinder to clean it up a little bit, but I want to get the majority of the shaping done with the hammer, if it all possible. Then, it'll be on to hardening and tempering, a little sanding/polishing/sharpening, and a simple wooden tsuka and saya.
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Hi guys just wanted post my little sheepsfoot Dashi I made out of some scrap steel (1084 or O1) def one, not sure which. I was just screwing around building my vertical forge and decided to bust out the ol two brick forge and forged this little guy. It's nothing pretty and I can't believe how handy and using it is for EDC, especially since I didn't even play to really carry it. Took a wicked edge too.
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52100 kitchen carver? with interesting handle attachment.
PederVisti posted a topic in Show and Tell
Hello again I have recently ventured into making kitchen knives, initially because i needed some kitchen cutlery for myself. This is the latest result to come out of the forge, the blade is 205mm long (8") and about 32mm wide (1 1/4") at the widest point, it is also quite thin, around 3,5mm at the thickest, tapering to the point and edge, the blade is flat ground, transitioning to a convex for the last 8mm, these factors lead me to believe it is a carver or sujihiki, but i may very well be wrong, since typology is not my strong point, feel free to educate me if you please! The blade was edge quenched, and after finishing i did a 15 minute etch in ferric chloride, to combat the inevitable oxidation that will occur in the kitchen, this also revealed a simple quench line, and alloy banding of the parts that were left unquenched. The handle is simple, it is maple and bocote, the handle is attached by drilling a 10mm hole partway through the handle block, and then drilling a 6mm hole a bit deeper, to guide the thinner end of the tang, so it is not a sloppy fit. The gaps around the tang at the top are then filled with two tapering hardwood wedges, in this case beech dowel, the wedges are glued to the handle itself with regular woodglue, but are just a friction fit to the tang, this may or may not be a strong enough constrution, that will be proved during testing. But seeing as lots of handmade japanese kitchen cutlery is also just put together with a friction fit, i think this will be allright. Regards Peder Visti -
hey guys this is the first time i have tried a traditional japanese style blade. It is made from 1075 steel from Aldo. Please tell me what you think and critique and give me suggestions so I can continue to improve! Also if anyone knows what to call this hamon that would be appreciated as well! Thanks. -Jeff
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Hello there! Took the plunge on a different approach to axe making today! I recently bought James Austins dvd on how to forge an asymetric axe head, and wanted to explore this method myself. However, i was not exactly thrilled about forging down such massive stock which it requires! So as a compromise i decided to try a symmetric wrap instead, this allowed me to use smaller stock, since the material is effectively doubled on itself! Starting material was 10 x 35 x 205 mild steel flat, with a bit of ck60 running all the way through the weld! The axe weighs 450 grams, and the cutting edge is 70mm (2 3/4") Here the axe is as forged, the mild steel forged much easier than the medium carbon core, and so i had to take a fair bit of material off to expose the seam: Here the axe is ground: I etched the edges quickly to see the welds (sort of): And a picture with the starting material: Overall i am happy with it, the welding went very well, and i will definitely do more this way! It was also faster to forge than the axes i slit and drift! Feedback would be greatly appreciated! Best regards Peder Visti
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Hi all, I am knifemaker from Czech republic, and I want to share and offer my work. this one is forged from old file, parcialy hardened and on handles is cherry wood from my garden :-) lengh is 28cm price is 100dolars
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today i had the day off, and i had decided to have a go at another axe, it started out as a piece of mild steel, 20x40x100 mm, and a piece of ck60 for the cutting edge. The body was slit and drifted, this time with a new shield style drift, that i am really starting to like, it is a lot more elegant than my old one! These pictures are as forged, i will get it ground tomorrow: The axe looks enormous in this picture, but i just have a very small anvil! I also tried out a new makers mark stamp i made, it is quite simple, but i like it! I really like the shield shaped eye on this one! Best regards Peder visti
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Hey guys, I figured it was time to show some of my latest work. I've been at this for about a year and a half now trying to learn all I could from YouTube and reading, but nothing beats experience and besides that's more fun than reading. I take criticism well and invite it, I'm looking forward to the comments. The first is a skinner, 4 inch blade of 1095, flat ground and polished to about 600 before a light buffing. The handle is 4.25 inch's long and I line the tang with blue sf spacer material. The handle itself is stabilized king wood. The second smaller knife is a pokko inspired EDC. 3 inch flat ground blade made of 1095. The handle is spalted maple and walnut with red spacer material to separate them and measures out to be about 4 inches. This was a father's day gift, I wish I had better pic's but its not always my first thought. Thanks
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Hello, I just got done with my new forge, and decided the maiden voyage should be an axe of course It started out as a bit of 20x40x100mm mild steel for the body, and 52100 for the business end. I notched the cutting insert ala James Austin (Thanks a bunch btw!), which made welding much easier. The eye was slit and drifted, but one of these days i have to try an assymetric wrap instead (when i build up the skill/courage) I found that my new forge would not stand a chance getting to a welding heat, so i had to do the weld in my old coal forge. I have since then upgraded my burner and some blower piping, and now it's good to go The weight is 460 grams and it has an edge length of 85mm Now i just need to go fetch some ash for the handle. Any input would be appreciated Best regards Peder Visti
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I have made some stock removal knives but this is one of my first forged ones. It is from a 3/8" round bar of 52100. It finished out with about a 3" blade.
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Just finished this handforged edc, 1084 blade Natural micarta handle w/ ss pins and red vulcanized liners. Oal -7 3/4" Blade 3 1/2" It has a definite swedge, but as it's forged in and wasn't ground at all, it'd harder to make out in photos. (this handle material is to lovely not to get a closeup)....
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