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Blade length: 11 in Overall length: 16 3/4 Materials: 1095 steel; differential heat treat, brazilian cherry, brass bolster and pin Asking $350

Hello everyone! I wanted to share with you a recent process build video of mine - I forged a Gyuto/Santoku hybrid out of 102cr6 steel and paired it with a traditional Japanese scarf joint called Kanawa Tsugi. Making a Kanawa-Tsugi joint on this micro scale is well... somewhat complicated. In western terms the joint translates to a half-blind tenoned, dadoed, and rabbeted scarf joint. The joint is carefully measured and adjusted slightly against traditional ratios/angles in order to compensate for the small scale. It's a joint that is typically used for joining beams together by timber framers in Japan. I've made a few of these knives now and they are all holding up well but with this variation I've opted to stabilize the handle with G-Flex epoxy resin in order to deter any moisture or material degradation. This keeps the handle rigid and allows me to drill the holes for the hidden knife tang without potentially loosening the wedges. I'm happy to answer any question regarding the process. This santoku/gyuto hybrid is forged from 102cr6 steel. It has been normalized three times before receiving a 10 minute soak and quenching in fast quench oil. Following the quench it was tempered at 200 degrees in 2 stages of 2 hours each. I would love to hear your feedback - this is a direction I'll continue to pursue as I hope I'm bringing something unique to the conversation of knife making. Thanks a lot for watching!

Here a couple I finished up recently. A wa-gyuto with burnt hawthorn handle, blade forged from w2 and differentially hardened. Blade was around 8.5”.

I know you guys are gonna hate me because this isn't forged but...sometimes a high quality stainless blade is what you need Anyways I am very proud of this and I hope you guys enjoy it! Blade: ~7" (177.8mm) cutting edge with CPM154 stainless heat treated by Matthew Gregory (thanks man!) and it is about 2" (50mm) tall allowing for plant of knuckle clearance. I used 0.1" (2.5mm) thick stock and it tapers down to a needle point and the edge is almost at zero. The spine and choil are crowned for comfort. Handle:Wa handle style about 5.125" long (130mm). The bolster is made from black paper micarta to mimic buffalo horn but have complete water resistance. The body portion of the handle is made from a beautiful piece of stabilized curly Tasmanian Blackwood. This stuff looks sort of like Goa wood and the amount of chatoyance it exhibits really is something to admire. Simply put it's a gorgeous piece of wood. Overall this knife is ~12.25" or 311mm Price: I am asking $500 plus shipping which will probably be done via USPS. and now for some pictures! IMG_5095.MOV IMG_5097.MOV

Well this is a blade that is stainless steel and done via stock removal don't hate me too much guys! Sometimes high quality stainless is the way to go! I hope you enjoy it! Please feel free to share your thoughts and opinions on how I can improve my work. Blade: ~7" (177.8mm) cutting edge with CPM154 stainless heat treated by Matthew Gregory (thanks man!) and it is about 2" (50mm) tall allowing for plant of knuckle clearance. I used 0.1" (2.5mm) thick stock and it tapers down to a needle point and the edge is almost at zero. The spine and choil are crowned for comfort. Handle:Wa handle style about 5.125" long (130mm). The bolster is made from black paper micarta to mimic buffalo horn but have complete water resistance. The body portion of the handle is made from a beautiful piece of stabilized curly Tasmanian Blackwood. This stuff looks sort of like Goa wood and the amount of chatoyance it exhibits really is something to admire. Simply put it's a gorgeous piece of wood. Overall this knife is ~12.25" or 311mm and now for some pictures! <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/q74di1XsrqY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YFUrPx_7Hrg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Hi guys I have just finished this one up. Its a japanese inspired petty knife hand forged by me.Steel:Hitachi Shirogami (white steel) number 1 laminated with SUS 410 stainless with pure nickel in between them.Blade:~4.375" long featuring a full distal taperHandle:~4.25" Wa handle featuring old growth mahogany bolster paired with beautiful light colored ringed gidgee This blade is wicked sharp and has a rounded choil and spine. I also took time to chamfer the sharp edges on the front of the handle and round the back of the handle. The blade was hand finished to 800 grit and etched to show the frosty mountain-like scenery in the blade caused by the carbon diffusion between the stainless jacket and high carbon core steel. The handle was finished to 2500 grit, buffed, rubbed with teak oil, and finally finished with paste wax.ASKING $300 Thanks for checking this out guys. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Now for some pictures.

Hi guys I have just finished this one up. Its a japanese inspired petty knife hand forged by me.Steel:Hitachi Shirogami (white steel) number 1 laminated with SUS 410 stainless with pure nickel in between them.Blade:~4.375" long featuring a full distal taperHandle:~4.25" Wa handle featuring old growth mahogany bolster paired with beautiful light colored ringed gidgee This blade is wicked sharp and has a rounded choil and spine. I also took time to chamfer the sharp edges on the front of the handle and round the back of the handle. The blade was hand finished to 800 grit and etched to show the frosty mountain-like scenery in the blade caused by the carbon diffusion between the stainless jacket and high carbon core steel. The handle was finished to 2500 grit, buffed, rubbed with teak oil, and finally finished with paste wax.ASKING $300 Thanks for checking this out guys. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Now for some pictures.

Hey guys I finished this one up about a month ago and thought I would share it with you. The blade is made out of .100' thick CPM154 stainless and is 8" long. Handle is g10 with brass pins. The grind is slightly convex and was taken to .005" before sharpening. The spine and chill were crowned for maximum comfort. Now for the pics... Thanks for checking it out. Please feel free to comment/Critique -Jeff Fogleboch

Hey guys I recently made some sanmai 1018/1084 and all of my welds were solid and has no delamination of any sort. I went to heat treat it, thermal cycled 4 times and then quenched in mcmastercarr super quench. The blade passed the file test with flying colors. However upon further inspection there was a crack in the middle of the core steel running the length of the blade...like it just wanted to spilt in 2. What cause this and what am I doing wrong? I know people make low carbon sanmai with a high carbon core all the time. I suspected that I may have over heated it so I took it to the vice and snapped it at the tip, the middle, and at the heel. All of the grain was silky like you would find if you snapped a file so overheating is out of the question. Thanks for the help guys!