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Hello, I had a question about a bone handle I'm working on. I took on the project of a viking style of knife and have a brass-antler-wood-bone-brass sandwich going on, that I'm going to carve some designs into. The only antler I have is a bit too big for the handle and I have to sand it down. I was just wondering how far I can go, and if I can go into the slightly porous section without completely trashing the handle. Thanks.

hi guys I'm allergic to epoxy and most 2 pack industrial type paints.. does anyone know an alternative to epoxy..... formaldehyde resin is the only other thing I can find thanks aaron

Quick question - when you have file work along the spine, of a full-tang knife, do you fill the voids with epoxy so that the whole spine is flush, or do you keep the voids free of epoxy? -Jeff

Gentlemen, I am not sure if I should post this under tools, but his is the newby section, so here I go. I am rather new to making knives and would like to eventually work my way up to swords, I would like some advice on a few different items in regards to tools, heating and materials. 1) After combing through the internet I believe I have decided upon a grinder to purchase, I have decided spend the cash first, (and once). I am look in at a BEE Grinder 2 x 72 but I am wondering what the difference/advantage/disadvantage would be between: A) The 1 hp and the 2 hp, The single speed vs the variable speed, C) A 8” contact wheel vs a 10 “ contact wheel, D) A smooth contact wheel vs a serrated wheel. Obviously the price goes up depending upon which accessories are added and I am trying not to break the bank. Below is a link to a supplier I have located with the descriptions. https://www.knifemaker.ca/BEE-Grinders 2) I am considering a heat treating oven as opposed to a propane forge due to the accurate temperature control capabilities for annealing, heat treating and tempering. I have found one that may be sufficient in regards to size for a sword and may be used for a knife simultaneously (I believe, although it may waste a lot of energy for knives alone). It is an Evenheat KF 49.5 Oven Setpro Control 10"W x 6.5"H x 49.5"D 240v. What I am wondering is: A) Am I nuts or should I be looking into a propane forge for one third or less of the price Could this do the job for both a knife and a sword C) Would I be better off getting a custom one built where it opens like a coffin from the top (as I have read nothing but good reviews about these coffin custom builds) D) Does anyone have any experience with this type of oven and what is your opinion on the Setpro temperature controller Here is a link to the oven I am considering with its description. http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-making-machinery/heat-treat-ovens-and-accessories-c-57/evenheat-kf-49-5-10-wx6-5-hx49-5-d-w-setpro-control-240v.html 3) I am having trouble locating a band saw that can cut metal under $1000.00, but the Proxxon MICRO Bandsaw MBS/E may be suitable for a decent shop, any thoughts or opinions? http://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/37172.php?list 4) My final question is in regards to the handle material known a Pakkawood/Dymondwood, I have worked with this material in the past and now knowing that the factory has gone the way of the dinosaur, I have found a replacement that may be suitable, so this is also a passing on of information to those whom may not know of it, but I would like to know if anybody has used it and would recommend it. Webb Wood. https://webbwood.com/about_webbwood.php Thanks for any assistance you are willing to give. Josh

Hey there fellas. I'm new to both this forum (first post) and this hobby (first knife), and I have a question I can't seem to grasp from reading through existing posts. Attached are 3 images of my handles (Black Mesquite). 1. One shows the handle right after applying a coat of linseed oil--lustrous, high contrast, deep colors. 2. Then, I have an image from about 20 minutes after the application of the oil--no luster, somewhat muted colors and contrast. 3. Finally, the picture I took 24 hours later--bland coloring and contrast, looks almost freshly sanded. How do I get my material to look like it was freshly oiled--less perhaps the luster? In browsing posts, I've seen mention of both hardwood wax and "hand polished". Can someone please describe the processes and materials involved in either of these finishes? Are there advantages and disadvantages to each? Since this is my first knife, I'm all for spending the time to make it right (or as right as this knife is going to be). Additionally, I've attached an image of my blade - Admiral 1095 CRA (hard to get a good picture of). I've sanded this down to 500 grit then finished with red scotch brite. My issue now, is that after the diamond stone I got some cross grain scratches. Is this common? I thought I was just hitting the secondary bevel, but I guess not. Also, after the water stones, my edge is finely polished and the transition into the primary bevel is sloppy. How do you ensure a sharp, straight line between primary and secondary bevels? I appreciate any and all advice you can send my way. I'm just soaking up all that I can at this point. Thanks

This is a project I finished just before leaving for college last summer for a neighbor. It was a factory made blade, and the leather washer handle was literally rotting off. I cut off the handle and the pommel, (leaving the guard at the request of the owner) and then fit this handle on. From the guard, the materials are rosewood (I think), sheet copper, beech, sheet copper, and deer antler. The handle is a little too large for the blade, and given the size and shape of the antler, I'm not sure it's the most comfortable grip, but I'm pretty pleased with it overall.