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Hi, I'm new here and new to knife making. I had been considering having a go at making knives for some time so a couple of months ago I jumped into it. I'm absolutely hooked! I've used O1 for these blades and recycled/native wood for handle scales. These are my first three knives. My first attempt is a general purpose hunter or camp knife with a 4" blade and recycled Teak handle. The next two I built simultaneously. The largest one I built for my workmate who wanted something to stick wild pigs. It's a 7" blade again with Teak handle. The smaller tanto style knife is a utility/EDC with 4" blade and recycled NZ native Matai wooden handle and sheath. I've already gained a lot of valuable information from the forums here, so thank you all very much.

I present to you - the latest Deer-Hunter - Yggdrasil laufsblað - Leaf of Yggdrasil! Blade in 3 bars folded and twisted steel. 100 layers of folded railroad steel for the body, and 60 layers of ferrier's rasps and 15n20. Handle in Chestnut with core of Holly, w. spacers in vulcanized fiber. Front part of handle is Mammoth Ivory, with spacers of vulcanized fiber and brass. The Holly is engraved with Elder Futhark runes in Old Norse. The poem is taken from Grímnismál verse. 33 - Codex Regius and pertains to four deer that eat from the leaves of Yggdrasil - the world tree. This knife will be used - shock - for hunting deer. As always, any feedback and criticism is heartily welcome! Sincerly, Alveprins.

Let me present Roðinn Hrafn - the Red or "Bloodstained Raven". Blade in folded and twisted railroad steel, in a san-mai lamination with Øberg steel for the core. Handle in stabilized Maple, with Holly for the core, copper, brass and vulcanized fiber. The Holly is engraved with Elder Futhark runes - written in old Norse - and filled with ashes. Any and all critique, is ... as always - most welcome. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.

Alright, so from the same billet as my last knife - here is another one. Blade in folded and twisted railroad steel, in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in stabilized Maple, with spacers in brass and vulcanized fiber - with copper for the front. All feedback and critisism is, as always - most welcome. Chiao!

Just finished another hunter... San-mai lamination, forge folded and twisted railroad steel for the body, and Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in burl Maple, with spacers in vulcanized fiber, brass and thick piece of copper. Working on the sheath, but RL job is taking up all my time. And yes... my logo is kind of big, still.. nothing has changed there. I am however - planning on perhaps having a new stencil made, without the square frame... Time will show... As usual, all feedback and critique is more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.

Here is another "Moose Hunter" - forged from the same billet as my previous one found HERE. These two knives are for a moose hunting couple who are about to get married. So, these are their wedding-knives. :) As always - any and all comments and criticisms are more than welcome. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.

Yakut Hi guys, I would like to offer you this Yakut Knife. The blade is forged from the material O2 and hand polished. For handle is used piece of ash. The handle is impregnated with linseed oil. Sheath is made of cow leader. The ring is deer Antlers. Details: Steel: O2 9 – 1/2“ Overall length 8,9“ Knife lenght 4 – 1/2" Blade length Knife weight 4,9 oz and with sheath is oz 8,8 oz $150 USD include shipping worldwide. It takes 5-14days. Hunter 1 I would like to offer you this high carbon steel hunting knife. Blade is made of hi carbon steel. Hardening and visible hamon. Hand polished. For handle is used piece of shear steel, buffalo horn and piece of deer antler. Sheath is made of cow leader. Dimensions are: Steel: W1 13,4“ Overall lenght 13“ Knife lenght 8-1/2“ Blade lenght 9/32“ Blade thickness Knife weight 15,8 oz and with sheath is 20,1 oz $350 USD include shipping worldwide. It takes 5-14days. Hunter 2 I would like to offer you this high carbon steel hunting knife. Blade is made of hi carbon steel. Hardening and visible hamon. Hand polished. For handle is used piece of shear steel, buffalo horn and piece of deer antler. Sheath is made of leader and it is cover with snake. Here is video of cut test: $380 USD include shipping worldwide. It takes 5-14days. PayPal accepted jardagrof@gmail.com ( this e-mail can also be used to contact me ) You can contact me: swejk@seznam.cz Thanks for looking. Jarda „swejk“ Grof.

I made these for my table at NYCKS, but had Coop get photos before the show , good thing because the bird and trout went early on the first day. the hunter i 1084 with bronze and stablized maple, it is a full take down with the little tool in the photo. the bird and trout is 8670/1094 random damascus with nickel silver fittings and silver inlay in the tiger maple handle.

Ok - this is an early preview for you guys. I am keeping this one under wraps since it is a surprise gift - but I thought I'd share with you guys since I did get some advice in the Fit & Finish section. Ok, so here it is.. Hjarta Gaddar - The Heart Piercer. Blade is san-mai lamination with scrapmascus. Handle is ebony and holly, with mammoth ivory and vulcanized fiber spacers... oh, and also two pieces of silver tinn. The runes are engraved in elder futhark, written in old norse; filled with an two component epoxy + ashes mixture. Until the sheath is done - these mobile phone amateur pics will have to do. Studio quality pics will come later when the sheath is in order. And now I need to get back down into the forge... So much steel to weld - so little time.

3 1/2" blade forged from 5160, etched satin finish with hammer marks left on flats. 8 3/4" overall length. Epoxy impregnated 550 paracord wrap, kydex sheath with leather belt loop. Price includes zippered pouch and shipping in CONUS. I can supply a teclock if desired. SOLD I take check, money order, or PayPal. If paying by check or money order I will ship once the check clears the bank. If using PayPal I will ship next business day, or same day if post office is still open. I ship priority mail and include tracking number. Please email for more pictures or questions. William Courtney

Drop Point Hunter in 14C28N with Kydex sheath I'm a hobbyist custom knifemaker from Sweden. I offer for sale a Drop Point Hunter made of Sandvik 14C28N. Which is a very capable steel, optimized for knife applications, with focus on edge performance, high hardness and good corrosion resistance. It's a useful size for a knife, not too large nor too small. And it's got a forward choil for more control when whittling or carving. Knife: Drop Point Hunter Mk I Steel: Sandvik 14C28N stainless steel Thickness: 3 mm (1/8") Hardness: 62 HRC Handle: Black Micarta with red liners, hand sanded to 800 grit and polished Attachment: Stainless steel pins Blade finish: Hand sanded to 400 grit Total length: 240 mm (9,4") Blade width: 40 mm (1,6") Blade length: 110 mm (4,3") Weight: 168 grams (5,9 oz) Sheath: Black kydex with sturdy belt loop Edge: Sharpened convex at 18 dps The knife comes in a zippered storage case. I ask $150 including shipping within the US/EU. Payments with Paypal. Thank you!

I finally got a small coal forge put together from half of a 35-gallon air compressor, some grating material and 2.5" exhaust pipe...it's been a good while since I last did benchwork regularly so this project was all about knocking the rust off of old skills and trying to remember the process. I've been saving up some dull files to send to Boggs and just pulled one out to try on this venture - I think it turned out well in spite of me, and learning how to use a new forge. Not completed yet, putting some finish on the handle and polishing out some bits here and there, but I'll update with the finished product later.

This is a hunter model knife made of SAE 5160 carbon steel. Length of the blade 12,5 cm. Width 36 mm. Revelation revealed. Cable in wood of Guajuvira, with brass pins remanchados. Thank you very much! This is a hunter model knife made of SAE 5160 carbon steel.Length of the blade 12,5 cm.Width 36 mm.Revelation revealed.Cable in wood of Guajuvira, with brass pins remanchados.Thank you very much! This is a hunter model knife made of SAE 5160 carbon steel.Length of the blade 12,5 cm.Width 36 mm.Revelation revealed.Cable in wood of Guajuvira, with brass pins remanchados.Thank you very much!

Here are my two latest: An O-1 hunter with 416 guard and spacer, with Ironwood handle. 4.5" blade, 9" OAL. and another freakin' Bowie. You guys have seen this handle design before........ This blade is 1095, 9.25" long. The fittings are brass and nickel-silver. The handle is stabilized box elder burl. Thanks for looking. Comments welcome.

I feel I've had quite a productive week! After a complete failure (serious delamination) where I had to discard the entire blade, I felt kinda out of it... However - I pulled myself together and finished an old knife I had forgotten all about, and also decided to finish a new knife design I've been working on... Hunter A: This one is kind of improvized actually. I started making this one - then my belt grinder broke down - and I put it aside. I only resumed work on it after I broke another knife I actually cared about finishing. Wood is Buckeye Burl, steel is my usual steel, san-mai lamination and differentially hardened. Hunter B: This is my interpetation of a Puukko knife. I though all those regular designs here in Norway were so boring - I decided to go with a full tang version... So, yeah.. Perhaps its not a puukko at all... haha! Wood is 2800 year old bog-oak from Russia. Blade is made from old wrought iron I found on my property. (probably more than a 100 years old...) and modern #20 steel. The unusual wrought iron made a tough time for me, and I got some delamination and stuff due to - I suppose - not using high enough heat while forge welding. I was not aware I needed super high temperature for wrought iron. But now I know better! Anyhow, threw this one away - then regretted doing so - and decided to instead actually finish it. I love how the acid reacted with the iron... Gave incredible contrast. I am going to drop these two babies off at a saddle-maker for sheaths. I still lack the neccesary equipment for leatherworking - but I suppose I will order a bunch of stuff off E-bay soon enough. Any critique is as always sincerely welcome! Sincerely, Alveprins.

Ok, so I wanted to make something a little special... I decided to combine modern #20 steel for the edge, and some - I presumed iron - I'd dug out of the ground on my property which I bought last year. (The oldest part of my house is dated to around 1820) So.. I found this round iron wedge under my old storehouse, along with some chains and farm equipment for digging in the earth and whatnot... So I decided to use the wedge for the san-mai lamination. I drew it out into two flat bars, cleaned them up, and added the modern steel. While working on the forge weld, I noticed the mystery-metal was extremely soft, and it felt as if it would not "take" very well... And by "take", I mean stick to the steel. I found it to be somewhat difficult to get it laminated. The "iron" would simply be squeezed around the carbon steel in the middle - as a result of their quite different levels of hardness obviously. Anyhow, I could see the blade starting to de-laminate even at normalization, so I dropped the differential hardening and just went for a straight quench instead. I got two normalization cycles in before quencing. I let the blade air-cool all the way down to +23C before re-heating. Anyhow, here are some pics: BEFORE QUENCH: AFTER QUENCH: Notice the extreme difference in color between the edge and the jacket? AFTER #120 SANDPAPER: I have no previous experience with iron - so I am asking... Is this how iron looks in contrast to steel in a lamination like this? I thought it looked so special, I could not bring myself to discart the blade. I feel the historical significance of the iron or whatever it is - is too valuable to me to simply discart this otherwise fine blade. The mystery-metal does not even seem to have taken the quench... Hardness is like - less than 40HRC. But the edge on the other hand is as expected 63HRC - which is as high as this particular steel goes. It current rests in my oven at 200C... Oh, and that delamination near the handle area? - I cheated and welded that bastard shut with my arch welder! I'll hapilly take any input and thoughts on that "iron" or whatnot though... I havent seen coloration like that before... Sincerely, Alveprins.

Here are a few clip point hunters I have made. I haven't been able to get in the shop much, so it was nice to pound out these two.

Hi All, Here are the latest offerings from Mongrel Knives. Made by hand by me in the Sunny state of Florida. Both are made from 5/32 (.156) thick 154-CM and tempered to a Rockwell 59. Specifications: Drop Point Hunter with Micarta Scales Length - 8.75 inches Blade length from tip to scales is 4 inches Scales are made from Brown Canvas Micarta 3 Brass pins are 3/16ths inch thick Mirror finish on the hollow ground bevel (10 inch wheel), hair popping sharp and well balanced. File work on the spine is the” Vine and Thorns” pattern Price is $167.50 shipped to the lower 48 via USPS Priority Mail. If you want a custom Kydex sheath like this one add $25.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kydex-sheath-for-the-ESEE4-or-ESEE4P-Horizontal-vertical-carry-NOT-THE-KNIFE-/311082545289?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT That is me on Ebay add $25.00. You just need to tell me if it is for right or left hand draw. If no sheath is requested then it will be shipped very carefully wrapped in paper and bubble wrap. Specifications: Penetrator Point Hunter with Rose Wood Scales Length – 8 and 5/8ths inches Blade length from tip to scales is 4 1/8 inches Scales are made from Bolivian Rosewood 3 Brass pins are 3/16ths inch thick Mirror finish on the hollow ground bevel (10 inch wheel), hair popping sharp and well balanced. File work on the spine is the” Vine and Thorns” pattern Price is $157.50 shipped to the lower 48 via USPS Priority Mail. If you want a custom Kydex sheath like this one add $25.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kydex-sheath-for-the-ESEE4-or-ESEE4P-Horizontal-vertical-carry-NOT-THE-KNIFE-/311082545289?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT That is me on Ebay , You just need to tell me if it is for right or left hand draw. If no sheath is requested then it will be shipped very carefully wrapped in paper and bubble wrap. Speaking of sheaths, all of mine are made from .080 inch Black Kydex and I make a lot of them. If you need a new sheath for your knife let me know and I will quote you a price. I like challenges and I don’t charge more for them. Thanks, Ken Thanks for looking, Comments are always welcome. Ken

This is my second knife and my first one that doesn't look like a third-grader's art project. I bandsawed the rough profile, drilled the holes, cleaned it up with a Dremel, and made the bevels with a belt sander. After heat treatment (edge quench in hot oil, followed by oven temper), I finished it to 200 grit, attached the handle scales with JB Weld and put the pins in. I then sanded the blade to 800 grit and dropped back to 600 for a satin finish, and sanded the handle to 800 grit. After 5 coats of tung oil, I cleaned the handle and applied a coat of MinWax paste wax. Comments and critiques are welcome! Thanks, Minh-Anh Day

Both are 1084, the throwing knife clay hardened and tempered to 420 Fahrenheit , the hunter hardened and tempered at 375 for 45 minutes then 350 for another five minutes, snap cooled with water in between cycles. THROWING KNIFE. A drilled hole serves as the marker for the CG. Once I figger out the right distance and stay consistent in form, it sticks almost every throw. This one I'm trading for a wallet from a leatherworker. HUNTER. Guard is scrap 1084, soldered on with the simple tin lead alloy solder. Antler secured with epoxy and hidden pins, sheet brass for spacers. The wood is driftwood I found down by the Sacramento River, oiled and stained, and secured with rifle cartridge pins and epoxy. Full tang. Still gotta do the detail filing, but I like this one . Any tips and suggestions? Thanks, Caleb.

Hi All, This is the most technicality challenging knife to date also probably my nicest. Its done in the old school fashion bolsters front and back with the scales between. This knife is entirely made from Aldo’s 154-CM that would be the central blade as well as the four bolsters. The wood scales are matching Bocote polished to a very high luster. Shaving sharp (I mean it) hardened and triple tempered to a very solid Rockwell 59. Red spacers and brass pins finish it off. A special knife done slowly with a lot of care. The Specifics: Material- All steel is 3/16ths 154-CM Hardness- Rockwell 59 Over All length- 9.25 inches Blade length to the bolster- 4.5 inches Blade at it’s widest- 1.5 inches Handle thickness at the bolsters 3/8 inch Handle thickness at the center- 7/8ths height is 1 inch very firm in the hand Scales- Matched Bocote polish to a high luster File work on the spine for your thumb to rest on if need be 6 1/8th inch brass pins and 2 red fiber spacers compleat it. Weight- 8.6 ounces I have a medium to large hand and there is still room between the hand guards (bolsters). This is a really really nice knife a true Hunter/Fighter Price is $245.00 plus $7.50 for USPS priority shipping. If you want a Kydex belt sheath add another $25.00 you wont be disappointed. Otherwise it’s up to you. Enjoy the pictures comments are always welcome.

just finished these up ordered for Christmas presents, using antler he provided and steel from harrow points from his family's farm. I have one more of the harrow points and I really like this steel just feels good. oak bolster.

Howdy folks, I am happy to announce that I finally have my new shop up and running as good as opening day at Disney Land. So far, in the last month, I have had more failures than in the whole of my knife making experience. I started using new steels (1095 and L6) and experimenting with them to find a good heat treat has been actually a lot of fun. I now have a grand total of 5 broken blades! 1095 blade after the quench. A total of six cracks are visible I had it stuck in my mind after the first broken blade that no matter what, I was going to quench my 1095 in water. It does say in the material data sheets that it should be quenched in oil when dealing with small cross sections, but i figured what the hay! So after learning that my heat colour judging was a bit off, I started to hone that in. After making sure I wasnt over heating before the quench and leaving a little extra meat on the edge, I arrived at a hardened blade. Actually two blades, since I was determined to have a blade survive the quench, I decided to work on two at once. I could see, what I believe to be the line between the hardened edge and the softer spine. I horizontally quench my 1095 in water that has been boiled, but backed of to the point where it stops bubbling. around 130-150 dF or so. I wait untill my blade is a deep red to bright red colour, but staying away from orange hues. Im looking to get it around 1475 dF, give or take. I had been relying on a Analog pyrometer, but realized that it must have been reading off a bit. That, or my thermo couple placement was off. I run a horizontal forge made from a 40lb propane tank, that roars a 1'' T-Rex burner. It easilly gets hot enough to weld, but i find it harder to keep lower temps. So here are those two blades! The first one out of the forge is some kind of antler that my buddies dog found in Rossland, BC. It has stainless and mokume gane fittings(definitely not made from quarters ;-) ). It has some copper and leather spacers and currently does not have a sheath. The second is red brass, and stacked leather pieces. On these blades I could see what looked like a hamons, but it was hard to photograph. It was just a bright line running exactly where the colours divided on the blade after the quench. Both of these were a lot of first for me, including peening the tangs. The antler handled blade has the pomel hole tapered so the tang would smush into it, but the other one does not. By the way, smush "IS" a technical term. I apologize for the low quality pics...

Hi All, Today I have for sale a knife I just finished up. I am calling it a hunting Ulu but I am open to suggestions. This one is extremely comfortable in the hand with your thumb on the non-slip groves. The ergonomics turned out great. The Specifics: Steel is 3/16ths 1095 hardened to a Rockwell of 58-60 Not quite a mirror finish. Length 6.5 inches Maximum height of blade is 2 inches Blade length from scale to tip is 2.75 inches, hair popping sharp. Scales are made from Andiroba and three 3/16ths brass pins. Price including shipping and a Kydex belt sheath is $ $75.00 Thanks for looking, Ken