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Found 15 results

  1. New Design. The "Thorncrafter". AVAILABLE. 5/32nds 80CRV2 Steel. Saber Grind. 4.5" from Tip to Handle. 9" Overall Length. 1.2" Height. 20LPI Jimping. Olive green Bead Blasted micarta handle Scales. Two Tone Finish with Black Acid Stonewash Flats. Black Kydex Sheath with a Combat-Loop Belt Attachment. SOLD. Thanks for looking.
  2. Hey there folks and greetings from good ol germany! Here i did a little restoration of an old knife that has been sitting to darn long in a dark corner. Unfortunately i don't know much about that knife but i couldn't help myself with giving this fella a facelift. Have a look and leave a comment if you like...criticism well welcome!
  3. I made this knife as a gift to my brother. For blade i use O2 tool steel and i make handle using different matirials such as brass, micarta, veal bone, leather
  4. Finally finished the leather sheath for this knife I made a while back. Original post HERE. A bit late - but finally managed to put it up for sale. I must say though - working with leather is definitively not my favorite... Sincerely, Alveprins.
  5. My knife making journey which I now call a hobby / obsession started off with me wanting to buy a Survival knife. I had always wanted to make a knife like used in the movie The Hunted. The closest knife I could find that was like the knife in the movie was the Tops Tom Brown Tracker, but after looking at the design in closer detail I did not feel comfortable with how close the saw teeth on the spine of the knife ran nearly right up to the tip of the knife by the look of it It seems as though the tip could break off. So I then spotted The Pappa Bear by Scar Blades I really liked the look of this knife but the size was a little to big for my liking. So after a week or so of looking at the different Survival knives on the market, I started to research what actualy makes a good survival knife. Weeks of more research followed from what a survival knife needs to be able to do to what type of steel the knife should be made from 1095, 1084 and 10xx High Carbon Steel seems to be the main steel used in these knives Next came length With some knives having blades that are 13" long but 10" to 6" seems to be the norm. So after all that I decided to buy a Schrade SCHF37 On first impression I was quite happy with the knife considering the low price but the length was not to my liking so I decided to try my hand at making my own kife because I am a newbie I picked 1084 carbon steel instead of 1095 from what I have read it is more forgiving than 1095. After a few more months of watching You tube videos. I felt confident enough to attempt making my own knife it was suppose to be a 6" long blade survival knife. But due to to several mistakes I made on the belt grinder I had to reshape the knife and have now shaped the blade with a bastard file and a Jig I learn t to build from Gough Customs youtube channel.The file may take longer but I enjoy this over the noisey belt grinder here are a few pics of my progress to far still a lot of learning and practice to go. Due to the mistakes I made the knife is now more like a camping / trapper knife no longer a survival knife. I was going to use Jarrah Scales but now going more towards G10 Scales
  6. Ok, time to start another project. I've made one of these before, but only a simple version. This time I will (hopefully) be making the kickass multibar version. I'll kick this Work-In-Progress off with a concept drawing, and a picture of the two billets that will make out the body and edge of the blade itself. I will also be making day to day videos giving the walkthrough. "Skaugubben" is Norwegian and consists of two words "skau" (forest) and "gubben" (the old man). This knife will be ment for old and middle aged geezers who wander the Norwegian woods hunting and skinning game. The steel is old files and rasps donated to me, along with some railroad and #15 and #20 steel. And here is the video: https://youtu.be/tHAJpjpQbHM
  7. Ok, so I've been busy all day and all night the past few days to complete this modest little thing in time for the 50th birthday of one of my colleagues. My boss approached me and asked if I could come up with a knife for a colleague since he is a hunter - and I could not resist the chance to make something I havent made before. So here it goes: Blade length: 103mm Blade thickness: 4mm at handle - tapering down to a narrow tip. Blade hardness at edge: 63 HRC. Handle length: 109mm Blade materials: UHB20C for the edge and UHB15LM for the jacket. Differentially hardened ofc. Handle materials: Madagascar Ebony and mosaic pins. The blade is full tang, naturally. And here are the pics... Fashionably amateurish as always: Any and all critique is as always very welcome. I must say though - I am extremely happy with the handle. You probably can't tell from the images, but this knife sits really well in the hand... Its like... I don't want to let it go once I grip it... Sincerely, Alveprins.
  8. Hello everyone, I haven't posted in ages, but my hands have not been idle, and now that I got my camera working again..., (Sigh, hammer and tongs I can use, computers i am not so good at.) Anyway, a couple of Hunting and Skinning knives in my series of ergonomic blades. These have black walnut handles, with copper pins on top, and brass pins on the bottom. And as per usual, they are 100% recycled materials. The copper is grounding wire, the brass is scrap from a diesel engine, the blade is 1085 plow steel, and the black walnut handle is salvaged from an old ottoman. Both have already been sold, for $60 a piece. I don't know how much time I put into them, but it probably wasn't more then four hours each. Not a bad days work.
  9. I'm pretty new and the few comments i've gotten so far on the things i've posted are very respectable, no crap from people nay saying things just constructive feedback so i figured i'd share some of my older stuff try to make a few friends and stay a while, i been doing this for 15ish years i started learning from my great grandpa when i was around 11 he passed away and i took it upon myself to try to finish learning.
  10. Blade Steel Japanese special clad stainless steel vg-10; - Heat Treatment Technique Vacuum hot treatment, low temperature tempering of 72 hours; - Construction Overall Length :246mm Blade Length :125mm Handle length:121mm Blade width :32mm Blade thickness: 4.5mm Hardness :59.5-60.5HRC Handle material:Relief of Ebony Scabbard:lether scabbard Blade steel: Japanese special clad stainless steel vg-10 Package:Cloth cutter bag - Blade Steel Crucible stainless damascus steel - Heat Treatment Technique Vacuum hot treatment, low temperature tempering of 72 hours; Construction Overall Length :246mm Blade Length :125mm Handle length:121mm Blade width :32mm Blade thickness: 4 mm Hardness :59.5-60.5HRC Handle material:Relief of Ebony Scabbard:lether scabbard - Blade Steel :Crucible stainless damascus steel Package:Cloth cutter bag
  11. My family came up this weekend, and my Dad, who is also a beginning bladesmith, showed me some pictures of the knives and sheaths he and Cliff Morris (our mentor) had made. Cliff is a professional who lives near my Dad and the two of them spend a lot of time in Cliff's shop. Keeps them out of Mom's hair, I guess. I don't know much about the steel, except there is no stainless involved. You never even mention 'stainless' around Cliff. Ever. Mac Hedges (my Dad) did the leatherwork. This one is my favorite sheath: Pics were taken with a cell phone. Not the greatest quality, and I'd like to see some more of the blades themselves. And a shameless plug: this Mac Hedges is the same one who wrote Last Buckaroo and Shadow of the Wind.
  12. Hi I'm not sure what section this is supposed to be in. But I think it can also be Show And Tell. It's a quick tutorial on how to cord wrap a knife handle. Someone asked me how and where I learned it. I learned it from somewhere on the internet but can't find the link anymore so here's a quick tutorial I did. Took less than 10 mins to wrap the handle while taking pics. I don't know how to upload a pic and put text below it so I'm just going to upload all the pics and hopefully you guys will be able to figure out how its done. I think the pics are self explanatory but I'll give a run down of every pic here: 1: The blade. I'm using a cracked blade I have. Make sure the blade hasn't been sharpened when you do this because you will put your hand on the edge during the whole process. 2: 550 cord. This one has not been gutted. If you take the stuff from the inside out, the cord will lay flat and look nicer, but this way will give you a little more cushion. I also don't know how much cord to start with. Use more than you think you will need. 3: Wrap the cord around your shoe so and keep pulling on it the whole time so there's tension. This will keep the cord tight on the tang. 4: "Lay" a long "loop" on the whole blade. Near the butt you should have a little extra and leave a longer "tail" on the blade side, you will need enough to grip when you pull everything tight in the final step. 5: Start wrapping over the "tail". 6: Wrap one whole turn and stop here for a moment. 7: See that piece over the thumb? Pull on that so there's no slack in the first wrap you did. Now grab the knife with both hands and turn it so that it gets wrapped around with the cord. Keep pulling on the cord that's wrapped around your shoe so the cord will be tighter on the tang. You may need to use your fingernails to make sure there's no gaps between all the turns. Wrap all the way down close to the butt. If you get too close to the butt, the cord will move later and show gaps. If this happens, back off enough turns to avoid the gaps. 8: Put the cord in the loop through the top. 9: Pull the cord all the way through the loop. 10: While holding the cord you put through the loop down with your thumb, pull on the "tail" that's on the blade side. This will close the loop and pull on the cord near the butt so that doesn't unravel on it's own. Then pull on the cord near the butt to make sure there's no slack there. You can pull as hard as you want. The harder you pull, the more secure it will be. But if you do pull it too hard on the "tail", you will end up with a little bump under the wrap on the butt side. 11: It should look like this. 12: Another look. 13: The other side. 14: A knife I had done the cord wrap on. Notice how the ends have been cut and burnt so the tips don't unravel. I have covered everything I can think of. If I missed anything or if you guys have any questions let me know.
  13. Hello all. New member here. Been making knives for the last few months. This is my second knife with Hamon and the best one so far. Steel is 1095 from Aldo Bruno. Let me know what you guys think. Trying to sell the knife. Will post it in the Knives for Sale section soon.
  14. For sale is a Hunting Knife with Hamon (no sheath included). Clay Hardened and the Tempered at 350 degrees F twice for an hour each time. Hand Sanded to 2000 grit sandpaper and etched using Vinegar and Lemon juice. There's a small scratch on the side of the blade that can be seen in some of the pics, but not very deep. Selling for $150.00 + Shipping. If buyer is around the Nashville area I can meet somewhere and we can do the sale in person. If buying online, PayPal will have to work. Message me if you have any questions. Specs: Steel: 1095 High Carbon Steel Handle: 550 Cord wrapped and with Lanyard Hole Knife Length: Approx. 8.75" Blade Length: Approx. 4.25" Blade Width: Approx. 1.40" at its widest Blade Thickness: Approx. 3/16" near the handle Price: $150.00 + Shipping
  15. This is a small hunter' combo that I came up with as I don't like making blades with a gut hook, I've broken a few hooks off during hardening! These sell as fast as I can make them!oal is 220mm.blade 110mm brass fittings,warthog ivory,blue wildebeast horn and African hardwoods complete the handle.a lightweight easy to carry worker! Thanks for looking
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