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Blade length: 11 in Overall length: 16 3/4 Materials: 1095 steel; differential heat treat, brazilian cherry, brass bolster and pin Asking $350

This is a small "herb chopper" I made recently from one of my recent ingots. 1.6% C with a lamellar water pattern. Bog oak and titanium pants.

Hi all, So I'm opening this topic up for debate... I'm starting to make kitchen knives (chefs knives) and was told 1060 was a great steel to make them. I'm also thinking of making them Damascus so I was thinking 1060/15n20. What are your thoughts on this steel for forging chefs knives and what other type do you think is better and why! We need to keep in mind availability, price and difficulty in forging tempering etc.

hi gents, i come to you with a new inquiry... i want to make a kitchen knife. a chefs knife to be exact out of 5160 steel... i need all the necessary info to accomplish this task, -is there is anything that needs to be done during the forge grind normalization, quench, temper etc that i need to know, that is different from forging a hunting knife? -does anyone have a preferred video or tutorial they can share??? -would you rather do it out of 5160 o 1095 steel. which is the best choice out of the two (that's the only types i have) i can procure stainless. so that's out of the question... And if I could get any steel what would be your reccos for chefs knives?? Your ultimate go to steel, that is not a pain to forge and quench of course. thanks a million.

Ok, let's see how this goes since I'm posting from my phone. This project has been dogging me for weeks now. Started one in 1084 and it cracked in the quench. Decided to try one in 1075 and go for a hamon. As far as I can tell, no hamon (or super minimal). I only took it to 220 on the KMG so far, followed by a coarse scotchbrite, 800 grit cork, then fine scotchbrite. Threw it into the ferric, and rubbed it with some mother's mag polish. I'm going to go back to 220 and work through the hand grits and see if that presents anything. But so far, no luck. So if anyone wants to speculate why and offer an opinion, please do. I think I didn't put the clay far enough down the blade. Either way, she'll be thin and she'll cut like crazy when I'm done in the end! I went ahead and paid the blood price so hopefully that'll satisfy the blade and her new owner never need know her bite.

Hi All, So while trying to find some images of my grinder build for someone I realised I have the images of my first knife here at work. I have shared this on the Aussie Knife Forum, but not here, so here goes. This is the post i copied and pasted from the other forum back in January - Have learnt tonnes since this and have a 72" grinder and a gas forge now. "So i thought i would share my first knife and its journey. Like most (?) we all started off very ambitiously i presume. I built the forge, and the tools to use at said forge. Then learnt a bit more (thanks youtube) and decided i would give this knife thing a go. Brought some 1075 and was told to go stock removal for a first. Check, did that. It wharped on HT so i tried to straighten it. Snapped the first 35-50mm off of the gyuto kitchen knife. Hmmm... So then changed plans and decided to make a Santoku(esk) knife. Fired up forge and went at forging my first blade from what was left. Nice! Then HT. Was straight, WINNING! Ok, back to files... Doh! this sucked. So I inverted my hand held belt sanded. Much better. Anyway, i can ramble on for ever about the process but i know you all came to look at the images. I am truly hopeful some of you out there will be able to provide some well thought out constructive criticism and/or as questions of why i did what i did so i can explain and then perhaps receive more feedback. So please have at it!!! Again, this is the first knife i have ever made, first HT (sort of), first temper, first polish, first handle, first WA handle, first everything... Here are some stats."Knife:Material - 1075Cutting edge - 170mmOAL - 325mmHeight at Heel - 50mmWidth at Heel - 3mm Tapered to - 1.2(ish)mmHandle:Material - Swamp Mahogany and CopperLenght - 150mmHeight @ ferrule - 28mmWidth @ ferrule - 25mmHeight @ end - 30mmWidth @ end - 28mm

Let me introduce hvassþorn - the Sharp Thorn. This will be a 13cm long 3cm broad blade, and 13cm long handled thorn-themed kitchen-knife in a slim protective sheath made from antique brown stained leather. The steel with be UHB20C UHB15LM and 15N20 mixed with tool steel (old rasps) folded to about 200 layers then twisted tightly. The handle will be 2800 year old Russian bog-oak fastened with mosaic pins. I expect to get physically started on this between Winter Solstice and New-Year.

Hello everyone, Last year I asked a friend of mine to make me a razor. He said he did not want money from me so he proposed a trade. He would have drawn a project for a kitchen knife, since he didn't have a nice one and, supposedly, in his opinion, I was getting the hang of it. I accepted, of course, as he is like a third brother to me and a very good bladesmith so it was such a honor for me... Well, after a little more than a year here are the projects. It has a lot of references to violins... because I am a violin maker. This will be a very cool project, the blade will be laminated, all 52100, but my friend deciced for full dip quench, no clay. He want it to be as simple as possible, even the finish. The flat side will be ground slightly hollow with a scraper and the signs of the scraper left on the surface. Maybe he will me to leave even file marks on the bevel side... we'll see. Anyway, the stop pin will be a violin peg, linked to the tailpiece with a violin string. So, the scabbard would most likely... play! I know it will be a lot of fun!

This is a 6" kitchen blade with a 2 3/8" heel. This was asked for by the customer and actually feels pretty good. The handle is ebony, snakewood and G10 The steel is 1075

I forged this one more than two years ago, when a customer wanted a simple carbon steel slicer. The business was cancelled when much of the rough filing was already done, so the blade was thrown on a shelf and stayed until one of my friends found it. He liked the shape (just as me), and told me that I should do something with it. My workshop went through quite a development in that period and finishing the blade was a fraction of the work it would have been two years earlier, so I decided to make a decent kitchen knife for myself. There are a number of things that I would do differently. The blade should be thinner, I should have left more of the forged surface, and I swear I will never ever use leather for spacers again. Still, looking at it makes me satisfied. Blade is Uddeholm Arne (around 60 HRC), handle is cherry wood with black leather spacers and fully hidden pin design. OAL length is 290 mm. Let me know how you like it. Thanks for reading!

This is a piece I made for myself but decided to sell because I need the money more. The steel is 5160 heat-colored to a deep gold color (400F temper). Overall length is just over 8", with a 3" blade. This is forged from a single piece of steel with the forge marks left in the handle, as well as one small one in the right side of the blade. The handle although being forged from the same piece is actually quite comfortable and offers excellent control in kitchen applications. Asking price is $60 plus shipping, negotiable. I'm willing to make more of these on by request, different blade lengths available, pricing negotiable. Offers to be sent to my email at archangel.knives@gmail.com

I did something a little bit different from the usual the other day, and finally got it finished and photographed today. You may have noticed that I've slowed down on production over the past few weeks, and that's because we've been down a man at work. That's ending in the next couple of weeks, though, so I'll be back in the forge a lot more. Anyway, on to the blade. The steel is 5160, and the total length is about six inches. I did a heat color on this to protect it from rust and also because it looks sweet as hell. Not much to tell about this one, really. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I also include this as kind of a peak behind the curtain on how I do some of my pictures. A towel on top of an ironing board, with a Tums bottle providing support. Pretty simple, but with the two lights and the mirror it works very well.

Here is my latest, and best, work so far. It is a petite cooking knife in a Japanese fashion. 1084 (A's), birdseye maple, G11 from years ago, and some coin fokume. Came out great. It was for a good friends 50th and since he is a trained and experienced chef, I am sure I will get some good input from him, and prolly some good grub! Hope you guys like it,,, jm I think it's the one under the rest,,, gluing some handle together,,, how does it look together? super long handle,,, a look at the grind,,, obligatory close-up,,, on a rock,,, rounded edges for user comfort,,, using it one last time before I dropped it off,,,

Kitchen knife I made for the wife. 1095 with paper micarta handle. Let me know what you guys think.

Kitchen knife I made for the wife with paper micarta handle.

Hi All, Today something very different, I got some of Aldo’s 1095 in 3.5 inch width. What to do with it? Obvious answer, after a lot of thinking, make an Ulu. What’s an Ulu you say? It’s a traditional Inuit knife used for fleshing out a seal or in the warmer climate chopping vegetables or any thing else for that matter. So this is my modern take on a traditional knife. The Particulars: Steel: 3/16ths 1095 to a hardness of 58-59 Length of cutting edge: 5.25 inches, slightly convex at the base sharp around the corners to about 1 1/8 inch high on the sides. Grind is hollow on a 10-inch wheel, very sharp. Height from the base of the edge to the top of the handle is 3.25 inches Handle material is Corian with 4 1/8 inch brass pins Finish: Mirror Weight is 11.5 oz Price shipped to the lower 48 including shipping is $145.00 if you want a Kydex belt sheath for it add another $15.00. It will sit blade down in the sheath. Thanks for looking, Ken