Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'longsword'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General
    • Read before you register
    • Forum News
    • New Board Issues
  • New Work
    • Show and Tell
    • Photography
    • Video and Multimedia
    • Knives For Sale
    • Design and Critique
  • Old Work
    • History
    • Old Masters
    • Library
  • Forge Work
    • Hot Work and Bladesmithing
    • Hot Work
    • Bloomers and Buttons
    • Beginners Place
    • Pinned topics for the Beginners Place
    • Teacher Directory
    • North American Bladesmith and Blacksmith Directory
  • Forges, Tools, Equipment and Materials
    • Tools and Tool Making
  • Finishing, Tips and Tricks
    • Fit and Finish
    • Sheaths and Leatherwork
    • Carving and Applied Arts
    • Shop Safety
    • Non-Ferrous: fittings, alloys, patinas
  • Heat Treating
    • Metallurgy and other enigmas
    • Heat Treating by Alloy
  • Events
    • Events of Interest
  • Discussion
    • The Way
    • Fiery Beards
    • Books, Videos, and other Media
  • Tailgate Sales
    • Tools, Supplies and Materials
  • Hall of Fame
    • Nominations
    • Show and Tell Hall of Fame
    • WIP/Tutorial Hall of Fame
  • Pinned Topics
    • Pinned Show and Tell
    • Pinned Hot Work Topics
    • Pinned Buttons and Bloomers
    • Pinned Tools and Toolmaking
    • Pinned Fit and Finish
  • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Marks to be Identified
  • KITH
    • KITH 2011-2020
    • KITH 2021
    • KITH 2022
    • KITH 2023

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 3 results

  1. Hello all, There is a question that has been nagging me for some time now. I have made a few European swords over the last few years, and I usually attach the cross guard with a small TIG bead on the underside, that is then covered by the wood scales/grip. obviously this is not historical. and not the best way to do it i know. some other ways i have found by researching this online say to slide the guard onto tang hot with the slot in the guard slightly undersized. This allows the slot to expand and fit; then cool and contract. OK, this sounds good but wont the heat seep into the hardened and tempered tang/blade junction and soften it? It seems like it would soften the steel even more than welding it on. I already peen/plug weld my pommels on before the grip material is added, and the pommels never move afterward. i guess my question is how do you all do it? specifically viking swords, or swords with cruciform guards. thank you all for your time, and possibly helping me get over this hurdle.
  2. I'm finally starting on my first completely custom Longsword that hasn't been made from scrap and spare parts from the shop. Haven't quite gotten around to posting many of my past works yet, so I'll start with my current build! Starting off, the design of this sword is pretty sizable.I am also loosely basing it off of an Oakeshott type XX. At 46"(116.64cm) in overall length, it'll have quite the reach. The blade will be 36" (91.44cm) from tip to shoulders. It will be made from stock removal of a pre-tempered 5160 blank, cut to profile.The guard and pommel are pretty hefty. Made from a mild plate steel, the material on the guard is starting out a 3/8"(.9525cm) in thick and the pommel is 1/2"(1.27cm) thick. they will be extensive sculpted and blackened. Hopefully my idea of a copper wire inlay will pan out. I'll be doing a heat blackening, I'm not sure how that will affect copper wire. So if anyone has any info or other suggestions, I'm all ears) An interesting feature will be a channel which will start at the bottom of the pommel and continue through the handle and end in a sort of arrowhead depression in the center block of the guard. Engravings all throughout the channel, as well as the large fuller that runs about 2/3 of the length of the blade. I started on the guard today, but forgot to snap my pictures. More will come tomorrow. For now i have a sketch that is pretty close to accurate in terms of proportions. Let me know what you guys think!
  3. So, I got in the forge today and felt a little bit froggy. So I picked up a rather large piece of 1075 that I had lying around and decided that I saw a langsaex hidden inside. Only one picture so far, and a concept sketch will come a little bit later because I haven't quite decided what to do with the hilt. I just picked up the steel and said "what the hell, let's make a sword." As is fairly typical with my projects, the planning will come after the project has begun. I'll be doing some research tonight, and may have some concept sketches by tomorrow. The reason I'm calling it a bastard saex is that It's going to be a marriage of styles between a bastard sword and a langsaex, with a narrower blade than is typical on historical saexes, as well as a crossguard, hilt, and pommel similar to a medieval bastard sword. Anyway, here's the one picture:
  • Create New...