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Found 9 results

  1. Hello, my name is Maciej Tomaszczyk I am from Poland.This is my first post here but I registered in 2011. I am not a professional blacksmith. Blacksmithing is my passion. The most I like to forge ancient and early medieval replicas of spears and axes. Sometimes I use for it bloomery iron I smelting my own. In my works I try to use the same technics as ancient blacksmiths. Bellow same of my Viking age spears. If you have any questions about the technology I used, feel free to ask. pattern-welded spearheads based on the archeological finds (early medieval) from northern Poland. Replica of earlymedieval spearhead from Lutomiersk (Poland). Entirely forged from scrap metal, in the core i used T-55 tank cannon, old steel rail and wrought iron wagon axle. Pattern welded spearhead, based on the find of the spear from Ostrów Lednicki (Poland). The total length of the replica is 50 cm. max. width 4.5.
  2. Case hardening inside a split weld, prior to welding split closed.. Just curious if this is something someone has tried as an alternative to steeling a bit into mild steel (or wrought). If I don't get a response, I'll give a report on my hopeful success!
  3. I used 1095, L6, and 15n20. I ended up making 2 smaller knives out of the material because I had an inclusion in the middle that there was no getting around. I have not cast the guards or pommels yet, one will be inlayed with Lapis Lazuli and the other with malachite.
  4. this sword was started at our hammer in last Oct (swords through the centuries) I welded up all of the billets and did some of the initial patterning in my demo. I have the sword all most finished at this point, so I will start were it is now and then go back to the beginning... might be a few posts I tried to get photos after each day I worked on the sword. patterning the 19 layer billet 19 layer billet welded to the serpent core, 40 layer edge bar ready to weld to the core billet welded, beginning to forge the blade blade forged to shape along with the second blade I forged from the billet (with an added edge bar)
  5. Today I started my KITH project, I'm still working on the actual design for the build, but figured I should start my billet now... Yep, all hands in, (my own two that is) making a pattern weld by hand hammer for this! Starting with four layers of 1095, and three of 15N20, for a seven layer first weld. Here goes nothing!!!
  6. When I became engaged a year and a half ago I had every intention of making my wedding rings, little did I know what a challenge it would be. I wanted them to be pattern welded steel with a gold inlay like J. Arthur Loose's rings, I thought it should be relatively simple to do, but man was I wrong... It ended up taking me seven rings to get them right (seven busted rings) but as of yesterday I finally got them down. After ruining a bit of gold (saved and remelted down) I decided to go with bronze as I have always been fond of that metal. Also because the pattern weld was not stainless it needed to be sealed anyway so there shouldn't be any discoloration. All that being said here they are and I would love to hear what you think of them. I still have a long way to go until I get this technique under my belt, but for a first attempt I think it went well. Robert
  7. I want to know some good blends for a first time pattern weld im not concerned about having a specific pattern but i just want some know how and someideas on what metals to use on a first try
  8. Ok so I know That Mokume is a metal alloy made of soft metals such as brass and copper or silver. My question is how much more diffcult is it to make than damascus and how much of a pain is it to work i want to use it as a bolster and pomel but I dont know if its in my range or if i should stick to blued stell for the effect i want
  9. Here is one I just finished up, minus sheath. I'm calling it Splinter and it's your basic utility knife, the blade was forged from 1095 and 15N20, the handle is made from copper, maple burl, leather, and zyrcote. Thanks for looking. -Robert Burns
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