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  1. Hey all! A few months ago I messaged our own Mark Green about possibly doing a collaboration together. He responded positively and sent me two seaxes from one of his latest runs of home made steel. The deal was made that he would send me two seaxes heat treated and tempered and I would take care of the rest. I would keep one and he would keep the other. I took way too long finding the right inspiration to finish these and had the blades sitting there waiting for me to hilt them up for a few weeks. I finally got an idea I liked and this past week has been spent frantically working to g
  2. Hello, A long time ago I made a pattern welded piece of steel, and recently I started to make a blade out of it. I decided to make the broken back seax. The steel on the edge is an old file, in the middle there is a twist, the back is made from a piece of tool steel. The blade was differentially hardened by edge quenching in warm oil. I didn't expect the hamon to show up, but it is visible. Not as crisp as on clay and water quenched blades, but still quite interesting IMHO. There is also a pattern on the edge made of old file that looks a bit like the old iron . The structure
  3. Hi! I was lucky enought to create a really funny thing! It is a broken-back seax from central Europe (Great Moravia at the 9th century), and it´s interesting because of one thing - it has fake lines, that are trying to immitate PW rod and wolf´s teeth weld! So, here is how I went about it... and the last picture, well.... that´s my new love, Chewbacca.
  4. Just finished this one up.... And knowing the pattern would be hard to make out.... The blade is 2 twists of 1084 and 15n20 sandwiched between w1 (I needed a break from wrought iron) 6 1/2" long, and the handle is bog oak, overall length 11 11/16". I'm not entirely happy with the patina on the bronze sheath fittings, but at least the texture is visible. This one feels really good in the hand.... Thanks for looking.
  5. Here are some pictures of a few recent pieces. ~Bruce~
  6. Lately, I have been experimenting with carburizing wrought iron to make shear steel. Here is my first successful result. It is a simple seax in san-mai construction. The cutting edge is medium-phosphorous shear steel made from wagon tires and the jacket is high-phosphorous iron from the Wisconsin globe elevators. Brass, copper and stained hardwood for the hilt. The tang is peened over. OL: 17in/430mm BL: 9.75in/250mm BWAH: 1.5in/38mm The photos are poor since I just snapped them in my office. Let me know what you think. Niels Ps: By high-phosphorous, I mean
  7. I have a very exciting teaching schedule this year. I am very happy to have been asked back to all of these schools. This is what is set up so far I will be adding more classes through out the year to my schedule as I book them. First beginning in Jan. my return to Brookfield craft center in Brookfield CT this is a great shop that has seen some hard times financially over the last few years and has been forced to close its doors more than once, but with a totally new board of directors in place new life is being breathed back into this school. I have a real soft spot for it as it is the first
  8. Thought I would share this recently finished project with you all. ' I forged the blade in late summer from 5160 , hand filed to finish. I suppose it could be classified as a seax, although the upswept blade profile is not what is viewed as being a 'traditional' seax shape.Plenty of historical finds to validate the shape ,though. Fittings are wrought iron, and the handle is blackened chestnut. Sheath was a challenge ,I hadn't tried repousse before, so it took a few tries to get a result that was at least presentable. And please don't ask me about peening those rivets in between the
  9. The Story: I made this knife the other weekend at a smithing demo my guild was doing in Myrtle Beach for a small ren faire. We had hammered away all day on custom pieces for people and as the crowd faded away toward evening one of the blacksmiths threw on some steaks. I realized I didn't have anything decent to eat or cut steak with so I quickly fashioned this eating knife so I could cut my steak with style. I also made a fork from a piece of old scroll work from Philip Simmons shop (he is our guild's name sake). The knife worked great and cuts steak like a boss. It also makes fast work of p
  10. I haven't made a blade in a while because I've been learned how to do lost wax vacuum casting this year, and this is the first blade I've dressed in the results: It's a broken back seax in 1084. The blade is a little over 19" (490mm) long, The spine is 6.5mm at the break, and tapers just a wee bit back to 5.4mm at the handle. It's 1 3/4" wide (45mm) at the break. I had wanted the blade to have a slightly straighter profile, but the tip didn't drop as much as I had figured in the quench. My guess is that's due to switching to Parks 50 for a quenchant (faster) and the inlaid runes. Spea
  11. Well, I was laid off on Tuesday so I had some time to work on this during the week. I still need to do the carving and some fit and finish work but here's my WIP to date. It's a 3-bar broken back seax with a 10 layer core (wrought, L6, 1060 and mild), a wrought-iron spine and a 1095 edge. The bolster is a stack of copper sheets separated by quarters mokume. http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/elk%20king%20seax
  12. I just had an awesome post all written up and I was putting images in and it disappeared. So, now you all get the shorthand version. I'm finally popping my cherry on damascus and multi-bar. I've been dying to do it and I figured I should stop being such a scaredy cat and put the hammer to the steel. I made my first forge weld earlier this summer (4th of July actually) by hammering a carbon bit into one of my axes. Then I did it to a few axes. Now, I'm back to knives. I've been really inspired by Petr Florianek's seaxes and I've been itching to to give one a go. Here's what I did: B
  13. Hi guys, so just for something completely new on here, i thought i'd have a go at making a seax i'm aiming for something reasonably accurate, but since i haven't done all that much research on them we'll see how it goes. my plan is to finish it to look like a well aged piece with lots of pitting and worn high spots, so i'm not too worried that there's scale and hammer marks. here is the blade forged from leaf spring annealed, rough ground, and carved into with a sharpened concrete nail (far from an ideal graver) on top of concept sketch view of spine trying to show tapers
  14. This is my first post on the forum, and by way of saying howdy I thought I would post some pictures of my latest work. (I'm not real good at forums, so hopefully the pictures show up.) I've been making knives on and off for about 15 years, if you start counting from the first knife-shaped object I made. Started forging blades about 8 years ago. I moved to a new place last spring, and have only lately started getting my "shop," such as it is, back together. These are the first blades I've forged in about 3 years (made a lot of knives from factory-made scandi blades in between.) After crui
  15. Here's one I've been working on recently. I am thinking about also working on a sheath for this out of leather with copper decorations. We'll see how that turns out. But I'm pretty happy with the seax. I'm including a few finished shots with more process shots here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/mammen%20seax The carving was fun. I feel like I am getting better at that. I have also now successfully heat treated several blades on my own now (saving me the time and cost of taking it somewhere). I feel particularly good about that as the whole process belongs to
  16. GEzell

    more seax

    I'm becoming predictable, I'm afraid... A new batch on their way to their new owners. Walnut or bog oak handles, 1084 or pattern-welded blades, ranging from 8" to 9 3/4" overall. Not the best photos, what look like horrible scratches on the bog oak one is just the oil on the blade.... scabbard fittings are bronze. The pattern-welded blade is wrought iron, W2 edge, with a 22 layer twist of 1084, and 15n20.
  17. Good day gentlemen! The upcoming state exams have been taking most of my time, but I have sneaked to my workshop every now and then. This is a wedding gift for one of my friends, an archaeologist. He likes Carolingian culture, and so I tried to produce something in that manner - the blade shape is taken from the late 8th century examples, and the floral motive belongs to the 9th. The grip is oak - bog oak and oak to be specific... I thought that him, being an archaeologist, would appreciate the spacers made of the old wood. The rest of thee grip is normal oak, and for me, I must admit it was
  18. It was starting to rain, but I managed to photograph these before they go to their new homes... From the top, first up is a 'mini-seax' in shear steel and horn with a 3 1/2" blade, about 7 3/8" overall. In the middle is one of my experiments in wolf's teeth from last fall, made of wrought iron, 1095 edge, and bog oak for the handle, with a 6 1/2" blade, about 12 1/2" overall. Last up is a patternwelded blade (wrought iron, 1084/15n20 twist, w2 edge) with a walnut burl handle. Blade is about 7 5/8" long, just under 14 inches overall. This one has a bit of an auto-hamon. Here t
  19. This Seax was inspired by David DelaGardelles drawings and Dave Stephens Seax knife. I have always loved Seax knives but could never find a blade shape that I liked. This one I like. My idea in this sketch was to forge weld a piece of plain steel with a piece of Damascus steel at an angle, much like patterned welded knives, but different in the sense that the Damascus is not part of the cutting edge. Is there any reason this would not work? I have never seen this blade steel design/composition on any other knife. How could I keep this weld in a straight line? I am also looki
  20. Hey guys A few days ago I forged together some bars I had lying around. There were some band saw blades and banding strap in there from the Fire and Brimstone hammer-in, basically 1095 and 15n20 and some wrought iron from some chain that some friends of mine and I salvaged. The wrought is on the spine and the twist is made of the banding straps and band saw blades. For the edge I went and welded up 200 layers of 1075 and 15n20. So the issue isn't so much of an issue. The welds went flawlessly and the profile is gorgeous to me, or at least was. I normalized three times and made
  21. Working up a quick concept conversion for a leftover handle from the Brag build. I had carved the handle upside down. Now I am changing the lyre to an axe and a drinking horn. The blade will be a 19” seax from a reclaimed farriers rasp. Th he blade engravings will depend on the amount of left over rasp marks after grinding. I made quite a bit of progress today and am hoping to finish forging the blade this evening.I’m not sure what to call this yet. Any suggestions? I'd like to carve the name in runes somewhere, I don't know runes very well and would love some help at some point.
  22. Hey everyone, This is my first post here so I figured I would start off with a bit of information about myself. I'm a first year at Hampshire College in MA and have recently started learning the craft of blacksmithing. Shortly after beginning this endeavor I began to itch after my own blade. I have been interested in swords and knives since I was very little, and the realization that I had all of the resources I needed to make my own available to me sent me right on to making my first knife. Needless to say, my first knife blank was pretty bad. Mild steel and a pretty rough grind.
  23. So I'm wanting to do a historically-accurate seax, and would like some pictures of actual artifacts, or accurate modern ones. It's much easier if there are a bunch of pictures on one topic, rather than hunting through the forum trying to find a few pics.
  24. Greeting everyone, I've been lurking on this forum for a couple years learning HUGE amounts, and I thought it was time I started contributing. This is my latest project, a gotland style seax with a few mutations/departures from the historical ones: The blade is 12" x 1 1/4 forged out of 1/4" 1084. It's a flat grind that I took down to 220 on the belt grinder, and then went from 220 (again) down to 600 grit by hand. The handle is stabilized caramelized maple. You can see in this shot where the wood got a little scorched during the caramelizing. The washers are leather and all
  25. This is technically my second Seax, but my first one broke soon after hardening. The steel is from a leaf spring, the handle is Bubinga wood from some very good friends of mine, and the pommel piece is also from a leaf spring: my friend and I are planning a sword build (he's the lucky one with the big forge and property) and I'm supposed to do the handguard and pommel. The pommel on this piece I was originally planning to use as the handguard for that sword, but I decided it was too small and used it for this. So here we go. Forging... Forging done, also showed next to my plan
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