Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'seax'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General
    • Read before you register
    • Forum News
    • New Board Issues
  • New Work
    • Show and Tell
    • Photography
    • Video and Multimedia
    • Knives For Sale
    • Design and Critique
  • Old Work
    • History
    • Old Masters
    • Library
  • Forge Work
    • Hot Work and Bladesmithing
    • Hot Work
    • Bloomers and Buttons
    • Beginners Place
    • Teacher Directory
  • Forges, Tools, Equipment and Materials
    • Tools and Tool Making
  • Finishing, Tips and Tricks
    • Fit and Finish
    • Sheaths and Leatherwork
    • Carving and Applied Arts
    • Shop Safety
    • Non-Ferrous: fittings, alloys, patinas
  • Heat Treating
    • Metallurgy and other enigmas
    • Heat Treating by Alloy
  • Events
    • Events of Interest
  • Discussion
    • The Way
    • Fiery Beards
    • Books, Videos, and other Media
  • Tailgate Sales
    • Tools, Supplies and Materials
  • Hall of Fame
    • Nominations
    • Show and Tell Hall of Fame
    • WIP/Tutorial Hall of Fame
  • Pinned Topics
    • Pinned Show and Tell
    • Pinned Hot Work Topics
    • Pinned Buttons and Bloomers
    • Pinned Tools and Toolmaking
  • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Marks to be Identified
  • KITH
    • KITH 2011-2019
    • KITH 2020
    • KITH 2021

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







  1. This is technically my second Seax, but my first one broke soon after hardening. The steel is from a leaf spring, the handle is Bubinga wood from some very good friends of mine, and the pommel piece is also from a leaf spring: my friend and I are planning a sword build (he's the lucky one with the big forge and property) and I'm supposed to do the handguard and pommel. The pommel on this piece I was originally planning to use as the handguard for that sword, but I decided it was too small and used it for this. So here we go. Forging... Forging done, also showed next to my plan
  2. Hey guys and gals, Its been far too long since I have posted anything. It's been a crazy year in the shop and out of it. I wanted to share a few seax knives that I have been working on finishing up. Sam forged the two wing nuts and kerry did the initial forging on the blade that has the bronze hande fittings. The rest was done by me. The carved handle was the first handle I ever carved about 5 years ago. I had it waiting for the right blade all this time. The top seax is 4130 with an edge quench and does show some activity in the right light. The fittings are steel and the handl
  3. Two of these are commissions, the rest were test pieces and offcuts that somehow became seaxes. The two bottom blades were the experiments in wolf's toothery, one, the smaller of the two had the pattern forged into the wrought iron and ground into the edge bar, the other the pattern was forged into the edge bar and the iron forged into it while the welding took place. Both experiments seemed to work, with no real advantage found to either method, IMO. These are all ground to 120 grit with a test etch before heat-treating. This is the blade that was commissioned, he wanted a 'serrat
  4. "What if?" has lead me into more trouble than I care to remember, but it such a fun game: "What if Thor had a folding knife?" has lead to this: 13" open, pattern welded blade consisting of a W2 edge, four twisted bars, tripple braid and a spine. Inlayed copper fittings and blackwood. I started carving the first bolster this morning: I am still in two minds about the pommel end, should I add a cap?
  5. The following knife is an experiment of sorts. It's the first blade I have forged from our Wootz-ish crucible steel (~1.7%C?) and meant to resemble a small seax. The ring-and-dot motif on bone is reminiscent of Viking-age bone decoration, although the motif is much older and common to many different cultures. The bolster is a simple copper plate that I drifted to the shape of the tang. The handle is scavenged ironwood from a flooring job. Unfortunately, I messed up the heat treat on the knife. Tempering at 500F for an hour left the blade very brittle and not suited for anything but
  6. Well... despite the title of this thread, I do know the Sax is not an African design. My brother is moving to Africa in a few months, courtesy of Uncle Sam. A few weeks ago he purchased a Savage Long Range Hunter rifle, the week after that he bought a Range Rover. Obviously the next thing he will need is a knife capable of taking care of, well whatever chores might happen to go along with a plains game rifle and a Land Rover. So I imediately knew I had to do a Sax, mostly because I haven't yet had the pleasure of doing my first one. Maybe second, but not sure I should cound my first
  7. The blade is right around 18" the fittings are made of brass with Moose antler and curly maple the blade is 7 bar composit done atthe brookfield craft center hammer in as a demo, 7 layer straight 4bars- 7layer twist 1 7 layer straight and the edge is a 25 layer twist. the 7 layer bars are 1095/ 15n20 and 4340the edge bar is L6/1095it can very close to riping it's self apart in heat treat... This one is entered into an art show in guilford CT and will be available for sale after I complete the sheath opon it's return. let me know what you all think! MP
  8. I am teaching a class on forging and hilting of Seaxs June 29-30th Every Viking warrior had one. the Saxons are named for them. The Sax or Seax is a knife designed for utility, carried all over Europe for century's, the varying forms used for every task imaginable , carried by Frankish farmers and Viking warriors alike, Seax's out lasted any other knife design. In this fun two day class students will learn about the varying sizes and shapes of the seax from the small broken back seax's of the British isles to the large sword hilted Scramaseax or Langseaxs of the viking warrior. Students ca
  9. Hey Y'all, I just quenched this one an hour and a half to two hours ago! It has been oil quenched and I'm pleased with it. There is a little warpage on the spine. I heard that one could straighten a blade with a vice and pliers. Is this true? should I do this before or after tempering? Anyway I hope to clean it up more and put on its scales and let y'all see them. They'll be blue! I'm so freaking excited! Cheers!
  10. I've been working on this narrow sax (did I get it right, blade taxonomists? ) for a while. 17.75" OAL, 11" BL, 5/16" thickness at the handle. Handle is walnut, maple, and browned wrought, built with reference to one of Petr's pieces that I admire a lot. Tool steel. Sheath is maple, browned mild steel rings, bronze nails and a little leather at the top. The carvings are inspired by some very old designs found in Ireland but I tried to give it a little more Urnes. Not everything went right with this but all-in-all I'm pleased and I learned a lot. I hope you like this..... thanks for any
  11. Okay, so I have this great apprehension of showing my work anywhere, especially here, due to the simply amazing quality of work that graces these pages. That being said, my meager contributions will only increase in quality if I force myself to suck it up and put my work out there. It's the only way I can get the proper advice on what to change in my approach, as well as anything else that may be lacking. It was a good learning experience, and I have a better idea what I need to not do in the future. The leather sheath, for example, was a first for me, but I hope to try some nice copper fi
  • Create New...