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  1. I've always wanted to make a seax similar to this and hadn't seen many examples. I based it off of the find which is mostly gone. The blade is about 16" and the handle it just large enough for two hands. I used wrought iron for the fittings and a piece of camphor burl for the handle. It's getting close.. still need to go over everything again and peen the tang. Afterwards is the long process of making a sheath. If you've ever made a traditional sheath for a seax.. it's a bugger bear. Hope you enjoy and thanks for looking! More to come as I tackle the sheath!
  2. So if a traditional seax does not have a riccasso, how is the joint between blade and tang setup so you can make a good connection to the handle without showing the gap? The blade will be tapered down to the edge in crossection (say a triangle with a flat spine and full flat grind). If the tang is larger in thickness, for strength, and rectangular in crossection, per usual design, the top of it will show when you look down at the handle. If the tang is smaller in thickness, and rectangular in section, it won't show, but the size change will make the knife weaker at that critical point. If
  3. I wanted to make a very traditional folder, something as traditional as quaffing mead, boar hunting, getting into a long boat and raiding the coastlines of Europe. So I designed and made a pocket seax. This is the second one, the first had the thicker, more rounded handle of a fixed blade seax, so I decided to trim the handle down while retaining a bit of a rise towards the end. This one is 4" long from bolster to the end of the lanyard loop. I am thinking of doing a smaller, 3 1/2" version as well. SAE1070 blade and spring, Brass bolsters and liners, p
  4. Dear Brethren, I made this seax a while back but havent posted it until now as it was a secret present for the honourable Mr Ecroyd for his upcoming trip to the other side of the world. This is meant as an every day carry knife while he works on a farm over there. I havent had any of my knives apart from kitchen knives see any serious work yet so hopefully he can give it a good field test! Blade: 5", 15N20/EN42J Handle: Lost wax cast bronze bolster with stabilised coolibah burl. As always let me know what you think! Cheers, James
  5. Dear All, These Anglo Saxon inspired seaxes are finally finished for my wedding two months hence! Some of the WIP (before I broke my camera and had to push onwards) is on this thread: Enjoy! Comments and Criticism gratefully received. I have learnt a heck of a lot on this build, if I were to be making just one I am sure I could have done a much better job of it. However, since there were ten.... yes ten.... with a definite deadline I struggled to spend the extra hundred hours on the sheath required per piece! All in all, I'm happy with them and I'm sure their new owner
  6. It's a frequent discussed topic, but I thought I'd open a tread specificially dealing with evidence for broken back style sax sheaths, in particular aimed at the fittings, suspension. Anyone who has looked for information on this subject will find that the archeological evidence is unsatisfactory incomplete. There are quite a lot of leather sheaths found in rubbish pits in the UK and Ireland, but they are nearly always completely stripped of any metalwork. First a summary of the examples that still have metalwork remaining: The famous hunting knife of Charlemagne, which so far has the mos
  7. I present to you my rendition of the seax found at Little Bealings, housed in the British museum. The 26 5/8 inch blade is forged from 80crv2 steel. The handle is dark stained hard maple, wrapped with nickel silver and brass wire. The sheath is speculative, as there are no Saxon langsax sheaths that have survived, and very few langsax sheaths at all. I wanted it to be true to the artifacts yet distinctly Saxon in character. The fittings are bronze and include a baldric for carry. The chape was cast by Matthew Berry of Hopkins Forge. This is the largest seax I have finished.
  8. Hi All! Haven't been here for some time... I've been learning, and improving skills Here there is a scramasax forged out of 5 bars: 3 x twisted rods (45/68/45 layers) + spine and cutting edge of 80CrV2. The handle is made with bronze spacers, deer antler, pear wood and black leather spacer. The "eye" on the butt is brass riveted and soldered from beneath. Overall len.: 515mm/20,27" Blade len.: 323mm/12,71" Handle len.: 184mm/7,24" Width: at handle: 33,5mm/1,32", at widst point: 35mm/1,38" Thickness: 5,5mm/0,22" Weight: 483g/17oz Let's save the word
  9. Dear Blade Brethren, Mr Ecroyd and I have been working on a project now for some time and we have finally got to the stage that we have something to show you for our toil, blood and tears. I am getting married next year (Mr Loose is making my ring ) and I decided all the best men, ushers and fathers needed wedding knives. We sat down and, true to form, we decided to attempt something ridiculous. This is obviously very similar to the flame edge patterning Dave Stevens showed on Arctic fire and Mick Maxen's explosion mosaics. The plan: Blades: Serpented two bar interrupted twist s
  10. Decided to take a crack at making a seax after seeing so many great examples. Got some really good quality high carbon steel lawnmower blades from the local power equipment dealer who was cleaning out his old inventory. Great guy gave me more blades than I can use in a year... lots of material. My 13-year-old son got excited about it so I got him involved in the initial shaping. Great to have a second set of arms swinging the hammer when trying to take a 4-inch wide piece of steel down by about half. Took a while to get the blade right and then a lot of file work to get the full
  11. Hi all ! It's my first post on this forum so I wanted to say hello and show you my pattern welded seax which I finished few days ago. Total length 47cm, blade 32cm Width 3,2 cm Maciej Leszczyński - Kuźnia Wilkowo
  12. I finally got another blade out the door. This one was a commission for a very patient customer (Thorvaldr). I guess I'd call it a heavily historical fantasy seax. The blade is Aldo's 1084. It's 10" long, flat grind, 1/4" spine. It does taper ever so slightly from the peak of the spine back to the handle, but it's barely noticeable. The blade has younger futhark runes inlaid in nu gold (15% zinc, 80% copper). On the right side they say "Thorvaldr owns me" and on the left "MHB made me". The customer had his previous seax stolen so maybe have his name inlaid in the blade will deter th
  13. A simple design yet proven over the time! Steel: O1 tool steel Overall lenght: 30 cm - 11.81 inches Blade lenght: 17 cm - 6.69 inches Blade height: 3 cm - 1.18 inches Thickness: 6mm - 0.236 inches Heat treated using clay at the spine of the knife to achieve a differential heat treatment. The handle is made with brass pommel and guard. Oak wood with leather spacers and deer antler. The pommel and the guard have a textured satin finish. The handle is secured with epoxy and pinned at the end of the tang. It comes with a simple leather sheath. I ship world wide.
  14. This seax speaks to the past with it's style based on millennia old originals as well as the wrought iron it its pattern from a 150 year old window bar. In addition to a wrought iron spine, the blade also has a central bar of twisted 15n20 and 1095 and an edge bar of W1 tool steel, sharpened to a working edge. There is also the shadow of an auto-hamon reveled by the etch. The handle is made from a beautiful piece of curly maple stained and burnished to bring out the figure. The knife comes with a leather sheath with brass fittings configured for edge up carry as it is believed may have been th
  15. I've been quiet lately, I haven't had as much time to bladesmith as I'd like between job and weather. I'm trying very hard to get caught up on commissions. Here we have a pair of wolfstooth seaxes with ash handles. Both have wrought iron spines and w1 edges. The larger one is just over 2 ft long, silver wire wrap, and the handle stained with aqua fortis. The fittings on the sheath are nickle silver.. we'd wanted to use silver but it just wasn't in budget. The smaller one is just over 10" long, with an oil finish on the handle and bronze sheath fittings.
  16. Hey, I'm Mike and I'm new to the forums. I've been making knives off and on for about a year. My focus is on historical pieces from the migration period through the viking age. Here are the blades I've made so far as well as a couple Mjolnir pendants I forged in order of completion.
  17. Greetings everyone, I’ve got a commission that has started me down the multi-bar road, so I thought I’d try and do a WIP. The commission is for an anglo-taxon style broken back seax with an 18” or so blade. I decided to do a basic 3 bar blade with wrought iron on the top, a twist in the middle, and high layer count on the bottom: I made my 3 bars, the middle being 36 layers of 15N20 and 1095, and the edge was 432 layer of the same. I tried using hose clamps to hold the bar together and I thought it worked really well. I forged out the blade about 70% of the way
  18. Here's a little thing I restored actually - recently. The blade was made quite a few years ago - but had been collecting dust'n rust. So - I shined it up and made a brand new handle and sheath for it. The runes on the blade reads "Smar Haukr" - old Norse for Little Hawk. Steel: Don't remember. Hardness at edge: 58 HRC (differential hardened) Handle: Russian Bog Oak (2800 years old) + maple, green vulcanized fiber and 925 silver. This will be my daily beater in the mountains and forests whenever I travel. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  19. This is the seax blade I welded up and forged out in my demo at Grizzy Iron works in Phoenix AZ last Feb, Totally welded with out flux or oil under Grizz's chambersburg 300 utility hammer. The bolster is moose antler and the handle is stabilized sycamore
  20. I used 1095, L6, and 15n20. I ended up making 2 smaller knives out of the material because I had an inclusion in the middle that there was no getting around. I have not cast the guards or pommels yet, one will be inlayed with Lapis Lazuli and the other with malachite.
  21. Two rather simple seaxes I recently finished. I've been quiet here lately, working on a very challenging commission that has me upgrading much of my equipment, the heat-treatment in particular. These two blades are part of the first group of blades heat-treated in my new furnace, and I needed something new to take to Tannehill, so I went ahead and finished these out. The blades are forged from 1084 and are just under 1/4" thick. Both were grinded down to a zero edge, then refined with a tiny micro-bevel... They are very sharp and cut well for being so thick. One is 10 5/8" overall wit
  22. hello guys! it's been a while hope you are all doing fine! so this is my last work, had the chance to fondle few seax repros at a recent knife show, so i decided to try and make myself one. While forging i decided to go for a type I/II norse style, not really accurate but i like the outcome. i recycled some leaf springs (i know it's frowned upon but hey all good for experience) total length around 54 cm blade is 38 cm thickness around 5-6 mm the handle is made out of brass, gabon ebony and walnut might try to carve it some of these days need to do some res
  23. Update: SOLD Recently finished up this little Seax. The blade is made from a W1 edge, a 1095 and 15n20 twisted bar for the center, and 150 year old wrougt iron window par for the spine. The wrought iron is fairly corse and shows a distinct pattern. The blade is approximately 4", the handle 4.125" A sheath is not included, but I can make one upon request. Price is SOLD plus shipping. If you're interested, send me a PM or go to the etsy page here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/498881227/pattern-welded-broken-back-seax-knife?ref=shop_home_active_1 Thanks for looking
  24. Update: SOLD This is a piece built around undulation, from the waves of the twin serpents in the blade steel and sheath, to the bursting stars of the twists and the wavy grain of the maple in the handle. The blade is made with a W1 edge, 1095/15n20 pattern welding, and mild steel in parts of the serpent. The handle is made from curly maple stained to bring out the figure and the sheath is leather with hand textured brass fittings. The front side of the sheath has a serpent tooled onto it to match the steel of the blade. I should mention that on the rear side of the sheath, there is a s
  25. This project started in earnest last summer when I had a whole day to personally examine three late iron age archeological finds from Finland; two seax blades and one ”ango” spearpoint. I want to thank Finland’s National Board of Antiquities and especially Intendant Leena Ruonavaara for the wonderful opportunity and professional insight. My main focus was on one of the knife blades; namely the KM7752:2 a ”straight backed Finnish seax” from Perniö. It is mentioned in ”Puukon Historia I”, by Anssi Ruusuvuori, p. 64. This particular knife blade caught my imagination (to put it mildly) and I’v
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