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Found 90 results

  1. Forged with 150 year old wrought iron, this seax is the result of a successful experiment in fixing flaws in old material. A crack in the wrought was filed out and filled with a small piece with matching grain direction to make an almost imperceptible fix and adding to the knife's story and character. The blade is made from a three bar of composite of W1 tool steel, twisted 14 layer 1095/15n20 and a spine from antique wrought iron window bars. The handle is made from a piece of scrap walnut and matches the blade at 5" (~12 cm) long with a very subtle hourglass shape. A sheath is not included, but I can make one custom upon request. The price for this knife is SOLD(US). If you're interested, send me a PM here or check out the knife's Etsy listing here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/473932948/pattern-welded-broken-back-seax-knife Thanks for looking! Aiden Carley-Clopton
  2. Dear fellow keepers of the flame, One of the projects on my bench is a seax that has been very long in the making. The blade was forged many years ago and has been sleeping undisturbed for a long while. When Owen organised his "Axe and Seax" event the other year I decided to bring along this seax to have something to show. It never made it, as I as distracted and could not finish it in time. Now I have set about to finally completing it. Between other projects over the past few weeks I have been working on its hilt. Attached are some photos of what it currently looks like. The grip is from a rib bone of a deceased spices of sea cow with fittings of tin bronze ( a lovely warm and slightly pink color!). The leather scabbard is already done and decorated and now awaits bronze fittings. More pics to follow. Hope you enjoy!
  3. From the album: stuff working on

    Seax i'm working on at the moment.
  4. Hello, recently I forged and finished two knives. Both pattern wleded with wrough iron. The cutting edges are made of 80CrV2 tool steel. The bigger one's handle is made of: brass, leather, deer antler, leather, black oak. The smaller one's handle is made of: brass, leather, black locust burl, leather, elm wood. I hope you like them They both are looking for new owner http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=33579
  5. Just forged these three knives out, the largest one has an 8 inch blade. The seax/bowie hybrid and the large bowie are made from 5160 and will be edge quenched, the smaller Bowie is made from a rail anchor(modified 1060) and will be clay quenched in an interrupted water-oil quench to obtain a hamon.
  6. According to the Örvar-Odds saga, Hafgufa was the mother of all sea monsters and fed on whales, ships, men, and anything it could catch. Hafgufa was said to have lived underwater, and when the tide was low at night, her nose and head would rise out of the water. The only physical description provided in the saga is the nose sticking out of the water, which was mistaken for two massive rocks rising from the sea. Source: Wikipedia Blade: 5.625″ Wrought Iron Spine, 1095/15N20 Twist, 1095 Edge This blade was forged to feel like a sea creature. The middle bar is oddly twisted to look like tentacles reaching out through the tides of the ocean just under the surface of the sea, which is represented by rippled wrought iron. The point of the blade is structured to feel like the side profile of a ship with a gentle curve upward to a stable deck. Handle: 4.25″ Wrought Iron, Extinct Sea Cow Rib Bone, Copper Pin The handle is hand carved from extinct sea cow bone. The carving is of kraken tentacles reaching upward and grasping at the copper pin, which much like a sail on a ship is the main element that can rip the piece apart. The guard is also wrought iron and has the word, “Kraken” carved into in on both sides in runes. Overall: 10″ Spine: .125″ through break POB: center of the guard Check my ETSY store for availability. Check out the build pics here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/kraken%20seax
  7. Hi, everyone I was always fascinated by those wolf teeth patterns found on viking age spears and saxes but the only time I tried to make it before it was a complete failure. Anyway, I decided to make it again, excited due to a video from Niels Provos about it on Youtube. Here are some of the steps: First, with an angle grinder, I just marked the area on which I would put the "teeth". My cutting discs are about 1,5mm (1/16in) thick, then I decided to use a 2mm thick sheet of mild steel for it. As it where a bit thicker than the hole, I ground it a little, so it would be both smaller and cleaner to the welding process. It should not be so thin because I wanted it to be held even before the forge welding process. After that it was all firmly held on the steel bar. Just before assembling all the pieces together. Here all the bars. The edge from 5160 steel, then a 2mm sheet of 1020 steel, 2 twisted bars of 1020/1070 and at last wrought iron. Forge welding it. After welding it all together I simply made a pseudo-tang to help holding it better. I was really anxious to know how it would look like. Then I ground it a little to see how it was. And this is how it was after the forging. I have to grind it a lot more. I wished to remove more material so it could reach a level on the twisted bars that would look more than simple stripes. But it is going good for a first try. Even if not so straight as i would wish it. Sadly it ended with what look like a different steel between the 1020 teeth and the 1020 thin bar on the point area. I don't know if it is the lack of a heat treatment or if there occurred some carburization while forge welding. I'll take a better look after all the HT. A friend from Facebook said me to make the initial cuts more triangular next time, so the teeth would be able to put pressure on it's walls too, not only to the bottom. I'll experiment that. Well, I hope you like it. I really don't know yet what will come out from this blade, but I'm looking forward to work with it soon.
  8. Hello everyone, This here is my first ever attempt at making a blade. It's forged out of 1095, 17 1/2" in length overall, with a 12" blade. What do you think of the overall blade geometry? My thought is the tip is too pointy, and I need to grind the break down to a steeper angle. Also, is the tang too wide? I think I'm probably going to burn on a simple wooden handle.
  9. jheinen

    First Knife

    From the album: Jeff H's Work

    This is the first blade I've ever made.
  10. I'm very excited about this project! Owen Bush has asked me to create a "Dwinesque" (similar to a seax I made in 2013) hilt and scabbard for a massive and beautiful bear-tooth pattern-welded Seax blade he forged while creating seaxes for the national geographic program about the staffordshire hoard. He wanted it to have a bear theme. Here is the initial concept sketch. I'm now waiting for bronze and working on the wood for the hilt. and here's a glimpse of the pattern—
  11. Hey all, This is a blade about 6 months in the making. The billet is 1095 with a wrought iron core, and I had forged this out at Scott Roush's place last fall. This is nothing but firsts for me, from the seax, to the fittings on the sheath. It was a great learning experience and am looking forward to making another one soon with my new found experience. As always, advice and critique are appreciated. Thanks in advance. Stats: OAL: 10 1/4 inches blade: 5 3/8, 1/4 thick at the break Vegetable tanned leather with brass sheet used for the fittings.
  12. MY FB PAGE: https://www.facebook.com/kovarstvikundera Knife inspired by the Vikings, price 100 dollars plus shipping. overall length 25 cm Blade length 14 cm Blade thickness 3 mm !! Handle 11 cm Blade: damask of top is from chain of chainsaws linear pattern. Middle damask from chain of chainsaws wild patern. Blades welded butt of 19,312 (high carbon steel) guard bronze, ash with engraving, bronze. Construction on the pin and riveted plus epoxy for sure. Handle surface : Bath from linseed oil and beeswax. cowhide leather of 3.5 mm Knife inspired by the Vikings, price is 100 dollars plus shipping. overall length 18 cm Blade length 8 cm Blade thickness 4 mm Handle 10 cm Blade: damask of top 11 ??? plus 19,191 wood pattern. Middle torsion damask from the same materials. blades welded butt of 19,312 (high carbon steel) guard bronze, ash with engraving, bronze. Construction on the pin and riveted plus epoxy for sure. Handle surface : Bath from linseed oil and beeswax. cowhide leather of 3.5 mm bowie "hornet" price is 140 dollars plus shipping. overall length 34cm Blade length 20 cm Blade thickness 5 mm Handle 13,5 cm STEEL is high carbon (1% C) 19 191 with hamon. toughness 58 hrc HANDLE: guard stainless steel, imitation mahogany,ash.... .construction on the pin and riveted plus epoxy for sure. Handle surface : Bath from linseed oil and beeswax. cowhide leather of 3.5 mm
  13. Hi All. Some time ago I finished seven blades and handles. Actually I did my first steps with making handles. I learned a lot doing them. I think the next level after blades and handles will be sheath making :-) I put some more pictures and details on my blog: http://lipinskimetalart.blogspot.com/2015/12/kolejne-dziwery-next-pattern-welds.html If you are interested in anything more about these blades just ask.
  14. Originally seen in this thread... http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32346&hl= The commission on this knife fell through, so I am putting it up for sale. It is not my usual style, it and it's brother are the first bowies I've made in a decade, and also they are my first frame handles. A bowie in the style of Woodhead and Butcher, overall length of 17 1/2 inches. The blade is 1084 and 15n20 in a 4-bar composite pattern, with a frame-style handle of brass and Jobillo. The rearmost pin goes through the tang, scales, and handle frame. The sheath is a side-seam with a removable frog. I am asking $650 for it. Also... I have 3 seax blades that are ready to be etched, and I thought I would try something a bit different... My proposal is, buy a blade, and I will finish the blade with whatever handle material and sheath configuration you desire... or if you prefer I will sell you the blade and you can build a knife around it yourself. This will allow you to have control over how you would like it finished, instead of me finishing the knife and then putting it up for public sale. Blade #1, the top blade, is just a hair under 6" long, and is approximately 1/4" thick. The blade is composed of W1 tool steel for the cutting edge, with wrought iron either side of a twisted bar of 1084 and 15n20, making it a 4-bar composite. The blade itself, as is, is $150. An embossed leather sheath with bronze fittings for this one will cost $60. Blade #2, the middle blade, is 10 5/16" long, and approximately 1/4" thick. It is also a 4-bar composite of the same composition as blade #1. The blade, as is, is $250. An embossed leather sheath with bronze fittings for this one will cost $102. Blade #3, the bottom blade, is 7 13/16" long and approximately 1/4" thick. The blade is W2 tool steel. The blade, as is, is $75. An embossed leather sheath with bronze fittings for this one will cost $75. To add a simple one-piece wooden handle to any of them will cost an additional $50 plus the cost of the handle material. I should be able to have the seax ready for Christmas delivery.
  15. Trying to replicate knife 2808 from Coppergate, York. All the information I got on it was on the book Anglo-Saxon ironwork from Coppergate, by Patrick Ottaway. This is a project that came into my mind some time ago and I got so excited about that I had to make it. Last month I made a bloomery furnace on the workshop as an experience with some friends, to show them a little of how steel was made back in time. As it was the first time I worked properly with the results of a successful furnace, I wasted almost everything on refining, cutting, folding, cleaning and so forth, as well a forging it badly on the start of the process, till I learned how to work it properly (it's far too different from modern steels, of course). Some of the working, mainly on the start of the stacking process was done on the workshop of a fellow bladesmith, as he has a hydraulic press that quickened the work a lot. It resulted on a more-than-500 layers bar, that I used to forge the knife out. However, I had to forge weld a piece of mildsteel to the tang, so I could be safer with it's lenght. As I don't have any information on the original tang lenght, this aspect is purely conjectural on my version. I had to make it bigger that I wanted, then I could cut and grind the excess off, so it could be on the exact measures of the original one. The main difference of this blade and it's inspiration is that the original one was made with a softer steel on the backbone and a very hard steel for the edge (about 65 HRC, according to the info present on the book, althoug it is listed there on Vickers hardness scale). I only had access to a high carbon content bloom steel, so I hadn't much choice other than make it from a single kind of material, wich is still authentic for the period, but not the exact one found on the exemplar. Also, the inlays on the blade (that can be seen on the the original) are only listed to be of cooper alloy according to the York Archaeological Trust webpage, what make it kind of difficult to replicate perfectly, then I'm yet to decide if I'll use nickel-silver or brass on it, but I'm rather inclined to use the first. After all, it's obviously not an exactly replica as I didn't get the original with my own hands, so lots and lots of details are just passing by, but I made my best till now. It's not even close to perfection, with lots of forge weld fails and a dubious carbon content, but let's see what comes next. This was by far the most amazing knife I ever worked with and I'm eager to see how it will be after complete.
  16. Huginn + Muninn “O'er Mithgarth Hugin and Munin both Each day set forth to fly; For Hugin I fear lest he come not home, But for Munin my care is more.” Above excerpt from the Poetic Edda poem Grímnismál Fast and light it swings Like Huginn’s feathered wings. Quick and brute the seax Like Muninn’s angry beak. 15″ Blade (wrought iron, 1084, 15n20, 80crv2) 5/5” Handle (wrought iron, elk antler, teak) 20.5” Overall 1.2 Pounds 2.125” POB from the hilt If you check out the build thread here you will see where this went from being a 21" blade seax to a 15" blade seax.
  17. I'm pretty new and the few comments i've gotten so far on the things i've posted are very respectable, no crap from people nay saying things just constructive feedback so i figured i'd share some of my older stuff try to make a few friends and stay a while, i been doing this for 15ish years i started learning from my great grandpa when i was around 11 he passed away and i took it upon myself to try to finish learning.
  18. Double Twist Seax I’ve been sneaking in some morning practice before work this week. So far this week I was able to prep some previously forged out 10 layers stacks. I twisted two 8 inch bars and stacked them between some wrought iron from old wagon wheels. Then I welded those bars with the 1095 edge bar together with a handle for ease of forging. Next I forge welded that whole set together. That’s a fun and tricky process. The hard part is keeping the temperature consistent throughout the whole piece since the wrought iron needs to be worked at a temperature where carbon steel can burn up. However, I was able to get a good weld. I checked this by grinding out the side topography and concentrating on any potential problems. I did have to take one side pretty low for a weird twist flaw so I will have to take care not to thin that section out any further during the remainder of the process. Once the bar is solidly welded and ground, I was able to forge the blade profile. I started with the edge profile working up to the point. This “pushes” steel up the edge into the tip which helps make it protrude further. I did do a little grinder clean up on that, more will be required soon. Next I used a handmade tool to help me forge in the tang. The tool I use sure does make it much faster to forge a tang than just using a hammer. As you can see the pattern is starting to show a little bit through the scale and it looks pretty good. I still need to do the final profiling and straightening before I do a grind then heat treat and final grind. If I get some time this weekend I may just be able to make that happen. My fingers are crossed. Follow this build on my blog here.
  19. Hello! I have mostly lurked about this forum a lot because I'm not really a smith like you other guys. However, I would like to think I've made some decent knifes over the years and would like to show you some of my work. Short introduction. My name is Edvin Sjöberg, I'm from Sweden, 34 years and made my first knife in 2007. I studied Archaeology at Gothenburg University and also have a Bachelor degrees in Industrial Design from Gotland University. Now I have a small business named Audhumbla that makes viking style knifes and takes on different kinds of design work. I recently finished this matching viking set and I'm happy how they turned out! Sheath mounts and bolsters in 925 sterling silver on vegetable tanned leather, silver rivets. Sheaths are treated with beeswax and beech tar. Handle is bog oak, moose horn with sterling silver draw ring and bolster. The blades are made custom for this project by the very talented Łukasz Szczepański. I'm sure it wouldn't have been nearly as nice without his input to the project. Highly recommended. I hope you like them! More pictures on my page, Audhumbla
  20. Weston Hunting Camp: 1976 This is the finished blade that my cousins (Dan, Ken, Nick and Matt) and I made over the weekend in my forge. This will be the trophy knife that will be used like the Stanley Cup for our annual shooting contest at hunting camp. The handle still needs to be finished. It will be made from deer leg bones we found in the woods last year. Edge is 1095 center is wrought iron then a 10 layer stack of 1095/15n20 and a wrought iron spine. The blade is 5.75" with an overall of 9". I did have some problems with some of the welds only sticking halfway through. I on;y had my cousins for a day so I had to salvage whatever we worked on. I was able to take my arc welder to a few of the gaps and fill them in. This resulted in some "splatter" spots that you can see by the tang in the lower picture and one by the wrought iron seam on the first picture. The good news is it saved it and other than that there were no problems. It survived heat treat (edge quench just in case). Next up, the handle and hardware. I'm just waiting on my cousin to send me the cured bones for the handle. I guess I could start sketching out some ideas for that. For larger pictures click here.
  21. Here is a big seax I've been working on based around one of Greg Verizhnikov's excellent damascus blades (see the For Sale forum). 22" OAL, 15" of blade. Handle is maple and browned wrought iron. Sheath is leather with browned steel and bronze fittings. Darkened the maple with potassium permanganate. Hope you enjoy!
  22. GEzell

    little wolf

    http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=27605&hl= I had not realized this blade had been setting around the shop for almost 2 years, waiting for me to notice it. The blade is 4 3/8" long, composed of 1095 (some of Aldo's old batch with the vanadium) and wrought iron joined together in a wolfstooth weld. The handle is masur birch, and the overall length is a hair over 9 inches. The sheath is made from leather, bronze, and brass. Not much else to say about it, other than I'm glad it is done. There are lots of pictures because I couldn't decide which were my favorites... Thanks for looking
  23. Hi all, below are a few of the projects I've been dorking around with, the past couple weeks. The first from the left, is a wrought-iron pattern-welded seax, with a 1095 edge. I intentionally over-etched it, to really define the layers, unfortunately, it had some really heavy pitting in a few spots, that maim the aesthetics. The second-over is a file-knife that I've been procrastinating; It's effectively a test piece for a later project--it'll have "dagger-ized" Petersen L hilt, when finished--it needs a bit more draw-filing before HT. Next is my KITH Puukko, and a test knife (trying out Aldo's steel); experimenting with how it works. Last one is another fiddley knife; just playing with negative space, etching, and handle-work. A bit more of the seax My KITH puukko is a 4 bar composite--a layer of wrought, two opposing 1095/"refined" wrought twists, and an edge of 1085. The inside twists were my first attempt at Damascus; really interesting to work with. I haven't found an etchant I'm thrilled with yet--once I do, some pictures will be posted. Sadly, I think I deleted my WIP of this knife, I'll try to take some more as the project progresses. More detail of the junker knives, both etched in sulfuric acid (~4M). The first, like the seax, was left in the solution for a couple hours.
  24. Greetings everyone. I got lost this winter making jewelry, but I've found my way back onto the path and finally finished a seax. I believe it's a broad seax, but I've never been good at categorizing. It's 18" overall, with an 11" blade. The blade is Aldo's 1075, 1/4" thick at the spine with no distal taper. It's 1 1/3" wide. I meant it to be straight, but it has a slight upward bend - the quench didn't curve it down quite as far as I had thought it would. I've inlaid NuGold wire (85% copper, 15% zinc) down the blade on both sides. I did it before heat treat and left the wire proud. That way after tempering I can go over the wire one more time with the hammer and get rid of any spaces. The quench leaves the wire dead soft. The handle is caramelized maple that I stabilized. I carved it so it runs up inside the bronze ferrules on each end with a nice tight fit, so having it stabilized it good because there will be very little expansion. The handle is all one piece. The ribbing was a series of saw cuts that I then rounded out with files & rasps. The ferrules are silicon bronze. I carved the original in wax, made a silicon rubber mold of it, cast 2 more in wax using the rubber mold, and cast the bronze from them. The sheath was made by wrapping the leather wet around the knife and pressing it using pieces of PVC foam mat (the shop floor mats). That way I get the leather to conform to the knife without making any lines in it. I did the embossing after it had dried, wetting only the section I was going to work with a sponge. All the fitting for the scabbard were done the same way as the ferrules: carve 1 rivet, make a rubber mold, cast 20 copies in wax then bronze. As far as "Historical Accuracy" goes I know I'm off the path a bit with this one. It fits well with the general aesthetic of the dark ages, but it's decoration especially is a couple steps removed.
  25. I have three spots left in my April 20-25 Patternwelded seax class at the New England School of Metalwork. last years class went amazingly well and this year should go even better in the new shop space!
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