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Found 13 results

  1. Hey gang, maybe some of you are like me and can't hold an awl straight to save your life. I can do ok on thin stuff, but 3 layers gets a bit cattywumpus. I made this awl that screws into the ram of my elcheapo harbor freight arbor press so it's always perfectly straight, no issues with torquing or twisting. It starts with a 3/8-16 hex head bolt (I previously drilled and tapped the end of the ram 3/8-16 for another project) Then I drilled an approximately 1/8 hole on the head of the bolt, and a cross hole that I tapped m4x.7(could use #6-32, #6-40, run what you got) Then I ground up an awl out of a slice of bandsaw blade, insert into the top, tighten the grub screw, and voila! No more wonky stitching. Also goes a lot faster than doing it by hand, mostly b/c I'm not trying to check my alignment. At some point I'll make up a foam backing block so I don't have marks from the steel plate behind the leather. Could probably also modify this to hold leather stamps.
  2. What do i need to know and have tool wise to start making sheaths. What are useful resources for beginners.
  3. It's a frequent discussed topic, but I thought I'd open a tread specificially dealing with evidence for broken back style sax sheaths, in particular aimed at the fittings, suspension. Anyone who has looked for information on this subject will find that the archeological evidence is unsatisfactory incomplete. There are quite a lot of leather sheaths found in rubbish pits in the UK and Ireland, but they are nearly always completely stripped of any metalwork. First a summary of the examples that still have metalwork remaining: The famous hunting knife of Charlemagne, which so far has the most intact sheath known: Not a lot of describing text is available about the sheath (to me). The exact dating is unknown, as is the material of the fittings. It could be gold filligree and glass inlay. The total length of the seax is 52cm. Worth noting is that the shape of the scabbard does not match the blade: the length of the tip beyond the angle is shorter on the sheath as well as the entire blade portion of the sheath. This could mean that the sheath. This could indicate that the sheath was not made for this particular seax.
  4. So I wanted to do it all for my first knife. I made the Micarta myself, and did the kydex work as well. It is just a small neck knife, with a mustard patina. Never done this before but I'm happy with the turn out and I can see areas I need to improve in, but want to know what you all think. Thanks for all comments and critiques!
  5. Inlaid sheath and holsters. KT
  6. Hello, I made this axe (along many others) and decided it was time i tried myself with an axe mask. Leatherwork is not really my cup of tea, and so i made it as simple as i could, which worked out alright i think! I chose a stud button for the snap, also out of simplicity, i quite like simple stuff! A large tapered welt was needed at the bottom for a good fit. any suggestions for improvements to the next one would be welcome! Peder Visti
  7. hey guys wanted to show my test/practice piece since I've never made a puukko with the nice flat grind and diamond cross section, or done a scandi style sheath. the blade is 4 7/8 and the handle is just shy of 4 1/4. coil spring curly oak and antler. let me know what you think.
  8. This knife was dug up at the site of Staraya Ladoga in 1986 and just purchased by me from a private collector in Estonia (with a really @#%@#% nice collection, he sent me pictures of some of his nicer stuff... holy cow!) I probably paid too much for it... but it's extremely rare to find a blade in situ with the original scabbard still intact after 1100 years, and I wanted it bad =) While it's not in the greatest condition, you can see from it exactly how it was constructed, as the leather sheath and wood knife handle are still intact. Only one hanging ring is still attached, but as can be seen you can see the 3 layers of leather and finish along the edge of the sheath perfectly clear. The triangular punchwork decoration indicates where the other hanging rings were attached as well.
  9. This is my second railroad spike knife, but the first blade I've ever done on commission. Compared to a lot of the work I see here, I can tell I have a ways to go. It's nothing fancy, and I can see areas where I wish I'd done better (I think the handle is too long, but I have smaller hands anyway), but I don't think it turned out too bad. The forgework was all done by hand, with a belt sander to finish things off. I went from 80 grit to 120. I'd like to find some higher grit belts to get a finer finish. The jimping on the spine was done with a file. The engraving was one of my first (and most complicated attempts) to use vinegar and a battery charger. My wife actually got me the charger as a birthday present just so I could get this knife done in time for Christmas (since the knife itself is a present). The sheath is "mountain-man style," from cowhide, hand sewn with a buckskin spacer to keep the blade from slicing the waxed nylon thread I used. When it was finished, I gave it a good heavy coat of olive oil. Any suggestions or critiques for the next one would be greatly appreciated. Buck
  10. Thought I'd show off some more of our knives and leather work.... questions, critiques, comments, and especially compliments welcome... ha ha Blind tang, 1095, Clay & oil hamon, Cocobolo and Brass SAM_6068 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6069 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6070 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6072 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6073 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6075 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6078 by djs1984, on Flickr
  11. Hi All, Just getting back to knife making after being sick for 6 weeks. So this is what I was able to do this week. It’s a small EDC or hold out that fits snugly and unobtrusively in the small of you back. This one is made from Aldo’s 1/8th inch 1084 hardened and tempered twice to a Rockwell 60. Rose wood scales and brass pins, hair popping sharp. Almost impossible to see you are carrying if you leave your shirt out or are wearing a jacket. Comes with the sheath. Paypal is preferred. Thanks for looking. Price shipped to the lower 48 is $80.00 Thanks for looking feedback is always appreciated. Ken
  12. Hi All, I had a small piece of O-1 so I made a small dagger out of it. Mirror finish with Rosewood scales and two 1/8 inch brass pins. This knife and the sheath that comes with it are meant to be worn in the small of your back. I keep mine on the strong-arm side of the back center belt loop. It could also be worn in a cross draw configuration. When worn behind the back it is almost impossible to see. The sheath protrudes only about ½ inch below your belt the rest is covered by the belt its self. I have been wearing mine for a week now and know one has seen it yet. This is a real nice way to carry a full tang knife and not be real obvious about it. Works well as a holdout or last ditch knife if you follow. Price including sheath delivered to the lower 48. $85.00 Metal: O-1 to a Rockwell 60, tempered twice. Overall length: 5 7/8 inches Blade length: Tip to scale is 2 ¾ inches Blade width: ¾ inch Scales: Rosewood with two 1/8 inch pins Widest part of the scales: 1 inch and about ½ inch thick. Very comfortable in the hand. Sharpened on both edges to a hair popping sharp. Let the pictures speak for them selves Thanks for looking; your comments are always welcome. Ken
  13. Hi all! I finished the sheath for my opinel knife today. I soaked the leather in hot water, formed them around the knife and let it dry. After it dried i cutted away the excess material and made the stitching grooves. After that I punched in the holes for the stitches and made a leather belt loop at the back of the sheath. I then stitched it all together and polished the leather with leathercream. It's a fun little project to do if you like leatherworking, not hard at all but gives the knife a much better look even though it's a simpel opinel knife. Jasper
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