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My friend just bought a cosplay sword, here's the link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1240262112/custom-hand-forged-stainless-steel-the?click_key=66427faebb52cecd26a2c04976131448412978e0%3A1240262112&click_sum=2382a0ef&ref=hp_rv-2&frs=1 There isn't any real information about the steel used to make it with other than just "stainless steel". At any rate, my friend said that despite being for cosplay purposes, the blade is actually sharp. Seeing as he wants the sword to be safe(er) while using it for cosplay purposes, can anyone give me some insights into the best method to go about intentionally dulling the sword for him that won't ruin the look of the sword and will allow for it to be sharpened later on if he chooses to do so? I don't have any type of belt grinder, but I do have a good angle grinder if that would be the best route. Thanks in advance for any and all tips.

Hi guys i meed advice i got some cheap stainless steel but im a beginner and besides that its stainless i dont know what composition it has. Any advice on how to heat treat would be appreciated i want atleast attempt to heat treat it. If this does not belong here please tell me where to post it.

As for general bladesmithing, I don't really consider myself to be a beginner, but along the aspect of pattern welding, I am. I have been trying pattern and forge welding for a while now (off and on for about 4 years). About two weeks ago or so, I finally had a successful piece. I am currently working on another blade. While working on my current blade, a friend wants a pattern welded knife using stainless steel. I have never tried it in pattern welding. I know that there are basically two kinds of stainless steels, magnetic and non-magnetic. My friend wants me to incorporate different kinds of steels along with the stainless. I'm not sure where to look so any help will be greatly appreciated.

Both bars are 19c27 and 302 stainless steel with a random pattern. The first bar on the top is 12" long, 1 3/4" wide, and .168" thick for $138.30. The second bar on the bottom is 10 1/2" long, 1 3/4" wide, and .135" thick for $111.13. Properly heat treated this steel is great! It cuts very well. It has good contrast and is easy to etch. I know many knife makers who prefer to work with this steel! This is how we heat treat our stainless steel Damascus when the layers are AEB-L and 301. In case anyone needs some tips for stainless: HEAT TREATING: Preheat furnace to Austenizing temperature Place blade in furnace​ Allow furnace to cycle back to Austenizing temperature Soak for 15 minutes Quench in oil Temper 2 times for 1 hour each time Quench in liquid nitrogen for 4 hours and re-temper 1 time HEAT TREATING TEMPERATURE MATERIAL AUSTENIZING TEMPER Stainless 1925F 350F FINISHING: Take blade to 400 grit finish (must be a sharp belt) Do not buff before etching To etch, submerse blade in a 50/50 solution of ferric chloride and distilled water for 10 minutes Remove blade and rinse under running water Repeat every 5 minutes until desired results are obtained For a brighter blade, buff and reetch 1 time Neutralize with tri sodium phosphate

Properly heat treated this steel is great! It cuts very well. It has good contrast and is easy to etch. I know many knife makers who prefer to work with this steel! This is how we heat treat our stainless steel Damascus when the layers are AEB-L and 301. HEAT TREATING: Preheat furnace to Austenizing temperature Place blade in furnace​ Allow furnace to cycle back to Austenizing temperature Soak for 15 minutes Quench in oil Temper 2 times for 1 hour each time Quench in liquid nitrogen for 4 hours and re-temper 1 time HEAT TREATING TEMPERATURE MATERIAL AUSTENIZING TEMPER Stainless 1925F 350F