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  1. This was just an experiment to see how large of a blade I could get out of an old file. Ended up with something like a half-sized Oakeshott XVIIIa
  2. I've got this dagger and I have no idea of its origin or its worth - any help?
  3. Hola amigos, les muestro las fotos que salieron de una sesión de fotos que tomamos para la Sword of the Battler. ¡Espero que te guste!
  4. Hi. Recently I've started welding billets for a pattern welded sword. This is something that I wanted to do for a long time. Luckily my cousin who takes part in battle reenacting wants to fight with PW sword. I took advantage and decided to do it even more cool comparing to the agreed price - to practice, to improve my skills, to take the challange and to make myself an "internal exam". The blade will be welded of 8 bars. 4 twisted bars (29 layers 1045x51CrV4 - spring) for the fuller, 2 straight laminate bars (mild steel x 1,2%C steel) + 51CrV4 (spring) on edges. I'm at the begi
  5. At last, I was able to finish my first medieval sword ... The work was artisanal in its entirety, the steel I used was the 5160, in total I took two sheets, the first, after being forged, and carved the phrases on both sides and made the TT discard it as it appeared a small microcrack , that was an important blow, because I was about to abandon the task, but after a few days I started the second sheet from virgin steel, the forge integrates, forge the hammer channel and chisel again all the letters and symbols as They are in the original, taking into account the length, width and above all, th
  6. I was interested in doing a 3rd century roman sword. While researching I found out that there was a short sword still in use by then something called a semi-spatha. So far I've read that it was either a broken Spatha reforged or a gladius that's hanged around for longer. But other than that I haven't found any exact details or images on the sword. Thank you in advance for any information.
  7. I'm doing an elvish sword for a customer that has a forge welded pommel. The welding was tricky as you have to put the guard on first and the guard wouldn't allow me to stick the tang all the way into the forge for welding. That part I made work. I just heat treated yesterday and I had the same problem, however. No matter what I couldn't get the base of the blade hot enough to quench. I gave it a go anyway, and the entire blade hardened except the first 2 inches from the tang shoulders and, here's the kicker, I had no warping! I tempered like normal and the blade flexes beautifully. The unhard
  8. my latest sword about 28 inches overall 23 in blade with a forged red bronze guard and a cast bronze pommel . sword blade is forged from 1075.
  9. ... and another sword This time, short, light, fast - for a "flyweight" sworsman. Blade of 60WCrV8 tool steel, cross guard and upper guard + pommel - wrought iron - etched, burnished with oil then polished with abrasive paper 1000 grit.. Grip - wood + leather. Overall lenght - 867mm Blade lenght - 707mm Grip - 102mm Width at cros guard - 47mm Cross guard lenght - 72mm Upper guard lenght - 52mm Point of balance - 166mm Weight - 990g / 2,18 lb
  10. Another sword finished Blunt blade forged out of massive bar of 60WCrV8 tool steel. Cross guard, upper guard and pommel forged and filed of wrought iron + brass inlay. "Rivets" are actually screws - not historical techinicque, but the sword is dedicated for sport fencing. The grip was made of black locust wood and leather. Some data: Overall lenght - 935mm / 36,8" Blade lenght - 776mm / 30,55" Grip - 102mm / 4 Width at cros guard - 48mm / 1,89" Cross guard lenght - 107mm / 4,21" Upper gu
  11. Don't have the time to have this treated or mounted anymore. Made of 1075, and untempered. Measures 27.5 inches long overall, and has a 19.5 inch long blade. You can have it for 60 dollars and shipping.
  12. Alrighty, gotta get these off my hands. [br]Three blanks I made, one a smallsword or long dagger (along the lines of needle from Game of Thrones, this one has both a guard and pommel) And one my interpretation of the Uruk Hai scimitar from the Lord of the rings, with a tang set up for either a katana style grip or a knife style handle. Lastly is a knife, with pin holes and lightening holes already drilled. [br]Knife measures 11.5 inches overall, cleaver sword measures 31 overall, and the smallsword thing measures just under 29 inches overall. [br][br]35 for the small sword, 25 for the knife bl
  13. Hello folks I've recently started working on the swiss short sword inspired by examples from 15/16th century. Since it survived the heat treating I decided to share it. Before HT Current state after HT (lots of hand polishing ahead )
  14. As some of you may remember a little while back, I was asking about steel types for a rapier project. Well, I opted to use what I have on hand, spring steel. To refresh everyone's memory, I included pictures of my design drawings along with progress pictures. The design drawings show a general idea of what I want to accomplish. In the second drawing, I zoomed in to show the basket. The next pictures shows the start of the build. I started off with a long leaf and split it length-wise. Starting with the tang, I drew it out to roughly the shape and size I need then proceeded
  15. Hi, I am not sure if this is the right forum for my queries. If not pardon me. Well, first of, I am not a blacksmith/blade smith. However I have been entrusted with a project to revive the dying art of traditional sword and knife making in Bhutan (a small himalayan kingdom). It is not just preserving the art but also to promote as a viable livelihood. The last of the master craftsman is in his 80s. The attempt is being made to train some younger folks to take up the craft. However, to do it in a traditional way, the younger folks are not interested. It is considered dirty, physically
  16. This was a very pleasant commission to work on for me. I could practice a little more of inlaying and the results got better than i could anticipate, even if I have much to evolve in this art. The blade was mostly done by stock removal, but the tip and the tang were forged prior to the grinding. It was made using 1070 steel. The hilt is of a variation of Petersen's type L and it's components are made in mild steel and the inlays are nickel silver. The twisted wires are also nickel silver. It was then oil coated and lightly heated to make it look darker, so the contrast with the coope
  17. Hi All, I'd like to see what other people do to straighten sword-length blades out of the forge. Correcting warps post-HT is simple enough and has been covered numerous times on this forum alone, but getting a long blade perfectly straight in the first place has always been a challenge to me. I find it especially hard on curved blades. My go-to is generally to find a flat surface, heat the blade up for normalizing, and either gently tap with the hammer down the length on the flat surface (flipping occasionally), or lay the sword down and press down on it with a heavy piece of flat steel (
  18. Hello everyone, this is my first post here but I have been lurking around for a while, studying all of the amazing work you create. I have been making chefs knives and a couple of daggers for a while but my goal have always been to forge swords. I decided to begin that journey at the end of last year and have been working twoards this goal since then. I have a full time job and too many hobbies to count but smithing have always been my number one passion and I have finally reached a milestone I've been looking forward to for a long time. I've finished my first sword. The proportions
  19. Hello, I would like to show you a few of blades that I welded in a last couple of months. Everything is welded from S235 low carbon steel and 50HF spring steel. Only axe is made of C45 steel and 50HF welded into the cutting edge. First I want to present viking sword blade, the core is made of 2 bars with separate sections of twist pattern and solid blades. It is 75 cm long, 5,2 cm wide and the thickness starts from the 7mm near tang and ends at 4mm at a tip. Next one is the long knife with wolf teeth blade, 42 cm long and 3cm wide. It is welded from 2 twis
  20. This sword was from a little while ago, though I thought some of you may enjoy it. This was a commissioned piece. It is a traditional Chinese Jian. Primarily due to the extreme distal taper, this sword is an absolute joy to handle. Light and thin at the tip yet stiff, much of the weight is concentrated in the hilt and first two-thirds of the blade. This allows the balance to be placed far from the grip, giving the blade a surprising amount of cutting power while remaining fast and responsive. Overall, a fantastically fun sword with surprising power and quickness. The brass guard and
  21. Hello everyone. Forged Roman gladius (Pompeii). One of my favorite builds so far! I'm sorry to see this leave my shop and go to its new owner. Steel- 5160 Wood- Walnut Handle- Elk antler Overall Length- 28.5" Blade Length- 20.25" Blade Width- 1.8" Point of Balance- 2.5" from guard Weight- 1lb 11oz
  22. I started this sword last Jan In Peter Johnssons sword class at tannery pond forge in NH. I got is as far as as rough assembly then it sat untill I had time ... well i decided to take the time and get it finished for my table at blade show in june, the blade is a little over 500 layer random pattern damascus of 15n20 and 1080, the furniture is nicely figured wrought and I set two 12mm carnelian cabochons in the pommel . the grip is a maple core with cord and leather wraps. the sword is a take down, and is held together with a pommel nut, that is shaped to appear as a peen block. enjoy
  23. So nearly finished hunting knife. Getting prepped for a major work that will hopefully be the finest blade I have ever made. Pulling out all the stops on this and going to take it slow and easy. First step was doing the design on paper. Took a bit of work and looks like it will come out as a nice sword. Going to make a wooden version to see how it looks put together. As for the Damascus pattern I'm hoping it will look good but time will tell. Going for a twisted core and plain Damascus on edges. And going to use Damascus for the guard and pommel with a wire wrapped hand grip.
  24. This sword was the most challenging piece I made so far and it really let me with a wish to achieve some more on my next swords. The blade was mainly made by stock removal, except for the tip and about 10cm of the cutting edge, as the owner wanted it to have some forging on it. It is 1070. Guards and pommel are made from a piece of British wrought iron from the Victorian Age and the inlays are brass. They are heavily inspired on the designs from a type S sword from Gjermundbu, Norway, but it is not made to look like the original. As some of you may notice it also resembles some interpreta
  25. 21 1/2 inch spring steel blade with mild fittings and charred oak handle topped by a 20 side die as a pommel nut. I thought i'd just have a little fun this time, the next will be a little more historical. let me know what you think
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