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  1. So, I think this is the right place to put this. I found an interesting video on the YouTube channel Shadiversity regarding what we commonly call the "Viking sword," and whether or not that is an acceptable name. No endorsement implied, but I find his logic and proposals interesting, and he puts out some cool videos from time to time. I was curious, as makers, how folks here feel about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wyk2SJw39Z4 Hope I did that link right. First time posting from Chrome.
  2. Hi! I want to show You my current project, it is an ulfberht sword blade, welded from 4 pieces, 2 turned 18-layers bars(50HF and S235 stell) and 2 blades(50HF steel). At the moment the blade is fully welded and place for inscription is chiseled(2 days of chiseling, the grooves are 3mm wide and 4mm deep) Tomorrow I'm starting to weld a bar for inscription. After matching the bar inside the grooves and welding it, it is time for forging edges and fuller. It is the hardest part for me, previously I failed at this point. The blade delaminated on edges a little after forging the fuller on die
  3. I've been putzing around at bladesmithing now as a hobby for 8 years and I figured it was time to get off my butt and make my first sword. As many people know, I have a fairly large collection of original viking era artifacts, and I love that period and the styles. I figured that for making my first sword it's not that much more work to make it pattern welded than it is to make it monosteel. One sword that I've always loved was the Type K sword in the Universitetets Oldsaksamling, Oslo (C11014) as depicted in Ian Pierce's book. I really like the shape of that blade, long parallel sides wit
  4. Hello, It's been awhile since I've been active on here but the projects never stop. Here is my latest work in progress. I based the design off of an Oakeshott Type Xa arming sword, but made it a hand and a half with a waisted grip. This is quick and dirty work and by no means the final product. I forgot to snap pictures of the progress as I went sadly. This one started out as a sparring sword but quickly changed to being sharp once I started getting a feel for for how it was shaping up. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZRDBlRjRqMEFNek0/preview The blade is about 28" lon
  5. hey guys i was just wondering if you could explain how the decorative filing on japanese blades is accomplished. Yes, I do know it is done with the file and I have done perpendicular file marks using the corner of a file but there must be some trick. Whenever I try the file does not cut a straight line or it skips. I really want to know how to do the "Kesho" pattern. If you look at some howard clark blades and nihonto the filing is near flawless! Thanks!
  6. Howdy fine folks, Well it has been an eternity since I have last posted. I have made many knives since my last post and will post them in due time, however for now I would just like to post this sword and leather that I have been working on. The leather was partially made from a hundred year old saddle, and it smelt great.... This He-Man sword replica is 35" overall with a hollow grind and is made from 5160 leaf spring steel. It has a wire wrapped handle over wax thread wrapped oak slabs. This was my first sword and I hope you enjoy. "I have the powerrrrrr!!!!"
  7. By now, I know some of you have seen this picture. I added this picture as a starting point to the build. For this build, I started out with a 24" long piece of 1/4" thick leaf spring. I started with point of the blade and worked my way to the handle. I was thinking of doing a barb-style hook, but I opted not to. Once I got the general blade width determined, I worked my way to the offset. This is where it got a little tricky. Once I figured out how long I wanted the cutting edge to be, using a corner of the anvil, I started the offset. After a little over 6 hours in
  8. this sword was started at our hammer in last Oct (swords through the centuries) I welded up all of the billets and did some of the initial patterning in my demo. I have the sword all most finished at this point, so I will start were it is now and then go back to the beginning... might be a few posts I tried to get photos after each day I worked on the sword. patterning the 19 layer billet 19 layer billet welded to the serpent core, 40 layer edge bar ready to weld to the core billet welded, beginning to forge the blade blade forged to shape along with the second blade I forged from the bi
  9. I was talking with a very good friend the other day. During the conversation, the topic of craftsmanship came up ( as it kind of often does). He asked me if I had heard of Jot Singh Khalsa. I must say, up until then, I have not. My friend proceeded to pull Jot's web page up on his phone. The work he does is simply beautiful. To this point, I haven't really cared too much for Middle Eastern and other foreign styles, but after seeing Jot's work, I was intrigued. Later on that evening, I got on his site and had some time to really take in what was presented to me. Seeing his work has insp
  10. It's been a while since I've been able to work on personal blades. Since I finally caught a break after the Christmas rush, I decided to put together a few pieces I've had to shelf. This one was made from a guard i used to experiment with TIG welding, so it's a bit rough. The handle was put together from some handle stock that shifted in the gluing process, but worked well for this project. The pommel was from our standard turned stock, sadly not handmade in house. However the blade is made from a scrap of 5160 that was getting kicked around for awhile. It's not perfect, but it seemed like a g
  11. I've decided to sell my broadsword. Originally I was making it for myself but I have my eye on a new rifle so I'm putting it up for sale. The sword is 1/4" thick of 5160 has is 30" in blade length ( Not including the tang) it is 2" at the widest and looks gorgeous. Sam Salvati, of Baltimore Knife & sword and the youtube series "Man at arms" ground the bevels with a 12" contact wheel. It is at a 320 grit. I'm asking $215 shipped for the sword blank but I am open to offers so let me know. thanks
  12. Anyone see this? http://britishlibrary.typepad.co.uk/digitisedmanuscripts/2015/08/help-us-decipher-this-inscription.html Might be old news, but I thought it was interesting.
  13. Hi, I'm looking to build a 72 inch vertical forge with minimal volume. Does anyone have any advice on design? My basic plan is to use a steel pipe (8 inch diameter) lined with 2 inches of Kaowool. This will provide a 4 inch diameter mouth that runs the length of the pipe, which will give me enough room to hang longer pieces for a heat treat soak. I'm not looking for forging heat, but definitely need to get thicker steel to critical temperature for heat treat. I'm thinking about using a 3-burner system, evenly spaced along the length of the pipe to try to keep my heat even but I'm conc
  14. Got the final pics back on this guy enjoy! comments welcome! 27" blade 15n20/1095 (welded up totally fluxless) steel fittings wood and leather grip. engraving by Michael Coffey
  15. It has a busy month for me and it is barely half over! first is a Damascus arming sword with steel fittings and a leather and wood grip, A bit more polishing on the pommel and a sheath and this one is out the door. engraving is by Michael Coffey. next up is a Big seax in W2 with hamon the guard is bronze adn the wood is black walnut I need to re polish and possably etch the blade after I scratched it doing the final assembly... (ALLWAYS use a brand new lint free paper towel to clean up epoxy off the blade!!!) next up is a Pugio for a customer blade on this one is 1075 and the handle is b
  16. hello! I am looking for someone to help me with my project. I am making a medium length, one handed sword about 36" overall with a 28" blade and 2 inches of a ricasso. I need someone to grind the bevels for me. I will pay very well, just shoot me a PM if your interested and we can work something out. I already have the blade profiled out, its just been sitting in my shop for a few months because my job and college has kept me insanely busy so what I lack in time I make up for in monies. the steel is 5160 from jantz, its 2inches wide and a 1/4" thick. Either a flat grind or hollow grind is fine
  17. Hey all! This is a project that has seen many mutations throughout its life, but now I can say it is finally close to being done. All that is left now is to create a sheath! I forged the blade for this project a few months ago and it sat as a blade blank of 1075 for a month waiting for me to chisel in the letters for an ulfberht. I got tired of looking at it one day so I started grinding it out and then heat treated it the old fashioned way, by stoking it through the fire to normalize and then for quenching. After that I finished the grinding and started the hand poli
  18. Hello! I've been making my third knife (first sword length blade) for about 35 hours now and I've taken vague inspiration from Orcrist from the movie Hobbit http://images.wikia.com/lotr/images/archive/2/2f/20130101143745!Orcrist.jpg I'm in the process of filing grooves to the handle so I can inlay twisted steel wire into the grooves. The blade is 46 cm / 18 inches long and the point of balance turned out to be a bit too far away from the guard, approximately 14 cm / 5 inches. The pommel will be very slim so it will have very little effect on the point of balance. The pommel will be add
  19. Hello fellow bladesmiths! I was contacted by a customer who wanted a simple 10th century sword. After discussing it a bit further, he has chosen a quite funny (at least in my opinion) sword It is described in Ian Pierce´s Swords of the Viking Age, page 122-123. I say funny, because the pommel is ridiculously small for the blade and cross dimensions... Well, here is my attempt. Blade is 78,4cms long, the grip 9,7cms. It weighs 1030g, and it´s blunt.
  20. Hello! Finally, I got to making swords! And while I have made several, this one isthe first I have ever made... I almost finished half a year ago, and then I didn´t have time for it, up untill now. It is my personal sword, and it is not a direct replica of any original. It is my own impression of type H. I´ve spent quite a lot of time thinking about what this type means to me, what impression it makes, and what feelings do I have when I look at various examples. The conclusion that I reached was that these swords create, at least for me, a very strong sense of "presence", almost if they bent
  21. I am trying to help solve a mystery about a type X viking sword unearthed fairly recently and in possession of a fellow just down the road from me. It was found in situ with the remnants of the scabbard and belt and the bronze and iron are all that was left when excavated. The brazil nut pommel is firmly in place, but there was no sign of the lower crossguard. In doing some research, I have found several other type X viking swords from the late viking period which are also missing their lower cross guards, but which have the brazil nut pommel firmly in place. When I had originally seen th
  22. Hello to all of you. I am new to this forum and to bladesmithing. I'm a 24 year old man from Norway, and is an educated mechanic. As the title said "One hobby lead to another", and here is why. At the very first day of this year I was out swinging my metal detector when I came across a real Viking sword. Which turned out to be parts of the goods of a viking grave. (Archaeologists did the excavation) And I have to say, that feeling of holding that pice of iron in your hands. Then realizing it is a sword, a weapon of fear that quite possibly have killed men more then a thousand years
  23. There is a lot I wanted to ask about, so I'll keep it short and too the point. Basically, I'm a newcommer in the bladesmithing hobby who has more ideas and thoughts than are good for him. Just so no one starts attacking me with their knives yet, here are the questions that seem at least somewhat to make sense: What is the difference in forging knives and forging swords? Do we use a different type of steel, is it file vs. hammer, does legnth and amount come into effect? Why is it suggested that I start out with knives rather than swords? Can we make ballistic knives? Throwing knives? Poisoned
  24. More practice until the real thing. My latest waster. I took the time to weight it with lead to get the balance right. This is the handle wrap I made. I know the pictures are crummy (from my phone since I don't have the camera right now), but I hope you get the idea.
  25. Here are a few shots of the next build I will be attempting. It's got a few new things in this build that I have never done. Concave fuller (I will be making a fullering tool and forging first) Intricate 360º handle carving Inlaid copper wires in hilt and pommel I'm pretty excited about this commission project. Also, doing a digital rendering of the sword first was new and I can see how helpful that is going to be. Follow the build here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/bragi The client chose to go with option A, which quite frankly I was hoping to do anyhow. I would lov
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