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  1. So, I think this is the right place to put this. I found an interesting video on the YouTube channel Shadiversity regarding what we commonly call the "Viking sword," and whether or not that is an acceptable name. No endorsement implied, but I find his logic and proposals interesting, and he puts out some cool videos from time to time. I was curious, as makers, how folks here feel about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wyk2SJw39Z4 Hope I did that link right. First time posting from Chrome.
  2. Hi! I want to show You my current project, it is an ulfberht sword blade, welded from 4 pieces, 2 turned 18-layers bars(50HF and S235 stell) and 2 blades(50HF steel). At the moment the blade is fully welded and place for inscription is chiseled(2 days of chiseling, the grooves are 3mm wide and 4mm deep) Tomorrow I'm starting to weld a bar for inscription. After matching the bar inside the grooves and welding it, it is time for forging edges and fuller. It is the hardest part for me, previously I failed at this point. The blade delaminated on edges a little after forging the fuller on dies with power hammer. Do you have some advice for me at this moment of work? The chiseled inscriptions: The pattern on rough forged blade (it is flat at this moment): And chisels I made from NC6 steel: Regards, Rafał Garbacik!
  3. I've been putzing around at bladesmithing now as a hobby for 8 years and I figured it was time to get off my butt and make my first sword. As many people know, I have a fairly large collection of original viking era artifacts, and I love that period and the styles. I figured that for making my first sword it's not that much more work to make it pattern welded than it is to make it monosteel. One sword that I've always loved was the Type K sword in the Universitetets Oldsaksamling, Oslo (C11014) as depicted in Ian Pierce's book. I really like the shape of that blade, long parallel sides with the well defined fuller in the center, and the classic well defined 5 lobbed pommel. My goal for this blade is to be similar dimensions, with a blade around 30 inches long and about 2.125 to 2.25 inches wide, but I want my first viking sword to be pattern welded. Since the original is type K from the 9th century a pattern welded blade is appropriate still. I started this a little over a month ago, but my shop time has sucked, as I've been getting my little British sports cars ready for show season which starts tomorrow. I welded up the initial cores on my forging press and then moved to my hammer to start drawing it out. Stupidly I forgot to write down how many layers my core billet it, but I think it was 9. It's 1084 and 15N20, although the 15N20 is thinner than I wanted, and I think I'd have preferred if the two metals were closer in thickness when I started. The two core bars are interrupt twisted in opposing directions. The two outer layers are just straight 1084. After coming off the forging press and going to the hammer, I immediately found that my weld in the center hadn't held at the end, and while I was re-heating it to re-weld, I thought that I'd clamp my phone in my vice and do a little video. So here's a youtube video I took about a month ago, re-welding the tip of the billet. This is my first project really using the power hammer, and I'm still getting used to the control and speed. Watching my own video, I'm painfully awkward with the treadle, as I hadn't got it adjusted where I like it yet =) I've got a lot better with the hammer now! =P This afternoon I picked up where I left off and continued drawing out the billet. I first took it to 18 inches long by 1.25 wide and about 5/8 thick. At this point my propane tank froze up, so I took a break and let it cool down. With the billet cooled down, and while I still had a lot of thickness, I took a saw and cut a V in the tip so that I could close up the tip and make the edge billet meet up and wrap around. After sawing it open I took a file and tried to smooth everything out as best I could so that when I closed up the mouth it would be as tight a fit as possible. Even prior to welding it shut, it was hard to see the line of the two halves after I closed up the tip The tip welded up nicely and I went back to the power hammer and kept drawing out the billet. My tank froze up again, and is almost out of gas, so I need to get both my tanks refilled before I continue. The billet is now 26 inches long by 2 inches wide and 3/8 thick. Right now I'm hoping that I have enough material to get it as long as I want, at this point I need to just stretch it out length wise, because forging in the fuller in the center, and then the bevels should give me the width that I'm looking for. Here's a closeup of the tip which seems nice and solid after welding it up, and didn't once try to split apart on me.
  4. Hello, It's been awhile since I've been active on here but the projects never stop. Here is my latest work in progress. I based the design off of an Oakeshott Type Xa arming sword, but made it a hand and a half with a waisted grip. This is quick and dirty work and by no means the final product. I forgot to snap pictures of the progress as I went sadly. This one started out as a sparring sword but quickly changed to being sharp once I started getting a feel for for how it was shaping up. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZRDBlRjRqMEFNek0/preview The blade is about 28" long and over 2" at the base. The guard is 10" wide, however its gonna get shortened up I think. I hadn't done large long fullers before on a blade, so this was a test on an unproven method. To achieve the fuller I had fixed the blade, unground, on a metal table with magnets; aligning the center about 2" from the straight edge of the table. I made a guide from angle iron that I had fixed to an angle grinder, so that the disc was spinning perpendicular to the tabletop like a wheel. I used a flap disc which had a round edge. Then I would run the grinder up and down the blade. This method proved difficult as I had put it together rather crudely. It however worked in theory! I have a fuller that looks decent, however it could be much better. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZVXhiVXl2YVVaR0k/preview "https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZbExSbTIzR2IwREU/preview My method of grinding in the bevels starts with 5160 .21" stock that's cut to profile with a waterjet. Not my preferred method but until I get the forge built I have to use my company's production methods. I then use an angle grinder and a flap disc to put in bevels. I definitely fell short here. I ground too much in some spots and ate away chunks from my profile which I had to compensate for. Bad Mark. but i came out with a nice sharp profile and good angles for edges. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZRG5oTlRxZ0t4RHc/preview Once I had this ground out I did a little bit of straightening with some heat, correction, and quenching. this went well I think. The stock is pre-hardened before its cut to profile, so we do tempering and straightening in house. After this, I started on sanding, which I have much more to do. So far this is kind of a rough 220 grit. should be a lot more diligent in the polishing department. From there I welded up this guard from mild steel pieces i had cut to shape. This will get more bevels and contours on monday. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZdWI5MXp0bU5BbjQ/preview The handle is made from 2 pieces of red oak with channels routered into them. I then spun the the shape on a lathe. This will get cording and leather wrap. The pommel is more of a place holder at this point, it's not accurate I don't think, however the weight is right where I want it. I'll be making a disk pommel with a threaded pin insert to attach to the threaded tang later on. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZOE9qRVZyN1Vmc2M/preview What do you guys think so far?
  5. hey guys i was just wondering if you could explain how the decorative filing on japanese blades is accomplished. Yes, I do know it is done with the file and I have done perpendicular file marks using the corner of a file but there must be some trick. Whenever I try the file does not cut a straight line or it skips. I really want to know how to do the "Kesho" pattern. If you look at some howard clark blades and nihonto the filing is near flawless! Thanks!
  6. Howdy fine folks, Well it has been an eternity since I have last posted. I have made many knives since my last post and will post them in due time, however for now I would just like to post this sword and leather that I have been working on. The leather was partially made from a hundred year old saddle, and it smelt great.... This He-Man sword replica is 35" overall with a hollow grind and is made from 5160 leaf spring steel. It has a wire wrapped handle over wax thread wrapped oak slabs. This was my first sword and I hope you enjoy. "I have the powerrrrrr!!!!"
  7. By now, I know some of you have seen this picture. I added this picture as a starting point to the build. For this build, I started out with a 24" long piece of 1/4" thick leaf spring. I started with point of the blade and worked my way to the handle. I was thinking of doing a barb-style hook, but I opted not to. Once I got the general blade width determined, I worked my way to the offset. This is where it got a little tricky. Once I figured out how long I wanted the cutting edge to be, using a corner of the anvil, I started the offset. After a little over 6 hours in the shop, this is what came out. I have the basic profile I was looking for. I slightly hammered in the blade bevels just to get a rough idea. Granted, it turned out to be a little different that the initial design drawing, but I can totally live with this. I honestly cannot wait until I get this one done!
  8. this sword was started at our hammer in last Oct (swords through the centuries) I welded up all of the billets and did some of the initial patterning in my demo. I have the sword all most finished at this point, so I will start were it is now and then go back to the beginning... might be a few posts I tried to get photos after each day I worked on the sword. patterning the 19 layer billet 19 layer billet welded to the serpent core, 40 layer edge bar ready to weld to the core billet welded, beginning to forge the blade blade forged to shape along with the second blade I forged from the billet (with an added edge bar)
  9. I was talking with a very good friend the other day. During the conversation, the topic of craftsmanship came up ( as it kind of often does). He asked me if I had heard of Jot Singh Khalsa. I must say, up until then, I have not. My friend proceeded to pull Jot's web page up on his phone. The work he does is simply beautiful. To this point, I haven't really cared too much for Middle Eastern and other foreign styles, but after seeing Jot's work, I was intrigued. Later on that evening, I got on his site and had some time to really take in what was presented to me. Seeing his work has inspired me. With all of that being said, I have had a design doodled out for a khopesh. I have done a little research on them and have seen some modern-made ones in action. Simply put, I want one. So, here's what I'm figuring, combine the khopesh with some inspiration from Jot's work. To me, it seems kind of natural. My question is this: Should I or shouldn't I? Below is a drawing of a slightly traditional khopesh drawn to 1:1 scale (actual size). Let me know what you think.
  10. It's been a while since I've been able to work on personal blades. Since I finally caught a break after the Christmas rush, I decided to put together a few pieces I've had to shelf. This one was made from a guard i used to experiment with TIG welding, so it's a bit rough. The handle was put together from some handle stock that shifted in the gluing process, but worked well for this project. The pommel was from our standard turned stock, sadly not handmade in house. However the blade is made from a scrap of 5160 that was getting kicked around for awhile. It's not perfect, but it seemed like a good exercise so I can finally finish that big Fantasy Longsword. Blade length is 30" from shoulder to tip. It has 8" tang. Blade weight is 14oz. Guard is 9" from the quillion tips. Altogether its 38" tip to pommel, and 2lbs 5.2oz in total weight. Balance falls a half inch in front of the guard. This was inspired by visualizing a nautical themed sidesword from the 15th century. It is somewhat thrown together and will undergo more finishing. For now the blade handles like a short and stout rapier, but still retains a very cut happy characteristic. I imagine it to be the dueling side arm of a mercenary. Robust and useful for a many fights. (crumby pictures, new ones soon)
  11. I've decided to sell my broadsword. Originally I was making it for myself but I have my eye on a new rifle so I'm putting it up for sale. The sword is 1/4" thick of 5160 has is 30" in blade length ( Not including the tang) it is 2" at the widest and looks gorgeous. Sam Salvati, of Baltimore Knife & sword and the youtube series "Man at arms" ground the bevels with a 12" contact wheel. It is at a 320 grit. I'm asking $215 shipped for the sword blank but I am open to offers so let me know. thanks
  12. Anyone see this? http://britishlibrary.typepad.co.uk/digitisedmanuscripts/2015/08/help-us-decipher-this-inscription.html Might be old news, but I thought it was interesting.
  13. Hi, I'm looking to build a 72 inch vertical forge with minimal volume. Does anyone have any advice on design? My basic plan is to use a steel pipe (8 inch diameter) lined with 2 inches of Kaowool. This will provide a 4 inch diameter mouth that runs the length of the pipe, which will give me enough room to hang longer pieces for a heat treat soak. I'm not looking for forging heat, but definitely need to get thicker steel to critical temperature for heat treat. I'm thinking about using a 3-burner system, evenly spaced along the length of the pipe to try to keep my heat even but I'm concerned that I'll end up with nasty hot spots around the burners. Is there a way to even out the heat better? Is 2 inches of Kaowool enough to provide efficient operation? Any and all advice is welcome! Thanks!
  14. Got the final pics back on this guy enjoy! comments welcome! 27" blade 15n20/1095 (welded up totally fluxless) steel fittings wood and leather grip. engraving by Michael Coffey
  15. It has a busy month for me and it is barely half over! first is a Damascus arming sword with steel fittings and a leather and wood grip, A bit more polishing on the pommel and a sheath and this one is out the door. engraving is by Michael Coffey. next up is a Big seax in W2 with hamon the guard is bronze adn the wood is black walnut I need to re polish and possably etch the blade after I scratched it doing the final assembly... (ALLWAYS use a brand new lint free paper towel to clean up epoxy off the blade!!!) next up is a Pugio for a customer blade on this one is 1075 and the handle is bronze olive wood and curly maple, still need quite a bit of work, I finished up a bare blade order for one of the Biggest swords I have ever forged, a 43" blade 56" overall sword in L6 I named it big Pocking sword ... and lastly a Axechete this is one of the few Mid tech designs we make, the preform is cut form 1/4" 80crv2 by Aldo on his water jet and then the edge and spike are forged in this one is just out of heat treating, still needs the edge re polished, handle cord wrapped and sharpening. and more to come soon! let me know what you think guys thanks MP
  16. hello! I am looking for someone to help me with my project. I am making a medium length, one handed sword about 36" overall with a 28" blade and 2 inches of a ricasso. I need someone to grind the bevels for me. I will pay very well, just shoot me a PM if your interested and we can work something out. I already have the blade profiled out, its just been sitting in my shop for a few months because my job and college has kept me insanely busy so what I lack in time I make up for in monies. the steel is 5160 from jantz, its 2inches wide and a 1/4" thick. Either a flat grind or hollow grind is fine ( as long as your contact wheel is 10"+ in diameter) so just let me in if your interested. Thanks! Harrison
  17. Hey all! This is a project that has seen many mutations throughout its life, but now I can say it is finally close to being done. All that is left now is to create a sheath! I forged the blade for this project a few months ago and it sat as a blade blank of 1075 for a month waiting for me to chisel in the letters for an ulfberht. I got tired of looking at it one day so I started grinding it out and then heat treated it the old fashioned way, by stoking it through the fire to normalize and then for quenching. After that I finished the grinding and started the hand polishing. The blade and fuller are straight enough but I'm not super happy with how it turned out. I'll have to give it a better go on the next sword. After the polishing it sat again for a few weeks waiting for the Petesen Type Z fittings that I never forged, mostly because I realized I'd rather see them on a pattern welded sword blade or a cleaner monosteel blade. Jump forward a fe more weeks to yesterday when I realized that I wanted a user sword, and that the blade I had lying around would make a pretty good one. I got a few pieces of copper and some blackwood I had lying around and started planning the fittings, and spent like three hours sawing and filing to get the mouth of the guard to be as tight as possible. I then left the fittings rough shaped by the band saw and clamped with epoxy. This afternoon I went in and realized the epoxy was useless and it fell apart on me as I shaped the guards due to heat. I decided to bite the bullet and just rivet them together and it went much more smoothly from there on out. Afterwards I sanded them to 400 grit and will leave them be to weather on their own through use and time. I planned to make a grip covered in leather with a riser in the middle, but the pieces of black walnut I picked for the core turned out to be quite beautiful and so I left them as is. Then came a lot of sanding, filing, fitting, and riveting, but at the end of it I had a finished sword! I guess what I learned from all of this is to plan as thoroughly as possible, but to let inspiration change your course as many times as it needs to before you are happy with the product. Anyway! What's a thread without some pictures? Here's the blade prior to sharpening and before the fitting of the pommel cap. Right before the peening. I need to get better at judging the material I need, because it is always supper nerve wracking and I always forget to anneal the tip before the actual peening begins, which definitely does not help. A nervous fifteen minutes later I was happy enough with the fit however. I had already spent way too much time at the shop today and so after the peening the next few minutes were a frantic whirl of energy and I didn't get any photos until it was done. I milled the slot inside the pommel cap for the peened tang to sit in as the mill was set up from the last time I used it and it saved me some headache that way The fit at the mouth is pretty good I think, and the patina the copper had from lying around a few years is really beautiful. I can't wait to see the rivets and the sides of the guards begin to turn dark also. Here you can see some of the figuring in the walnut, subtle but beautiful. I think it goes really well with the rest of the sword. A shot in hand. It looks almost like a toy in this picture because of how simple the colors look. I promise it looks and feels better than that and when it starts to age I'm sure it'll look even better! Anyway, hope you guys like it! I know I'm glad to have a new piece to bring back home for spring break and show off to my parents
  18. Hello! I've been making my third knife (first sword length blade) for about 35 hours now and I've taken vague inspiration from Orcrist from the movie Hobbit http://images.wikia.com/lotr/images/archive/2/2f/20130101143745!Orcrist.jpg I'm in the process of filing grooves to the handle so I can inlay twisted steel wire into the grooves. The blade is 46 cm / 18 inches long and the point of balance turned out to be a bit too far away from the guard, approximately 14 cm / 5 inches. The pommel will be very slim so it will have very little effect on the point of balance. The pommel will be added last so I can insert the wire without it being in the way. The finish of the blade and guard could be better, but since I'm on a bladesmithing course 2 times a week with very little possibility to work on the sword at home I sometimes work in a slight hurry... Also removing all the scratches from the blade would've thinned it too much. I feel like my photographs could be much better, but since Finland is quite dark in the winter and I only have my phone I can't provide much sharper photos. Edit: I forgot to mention, The blade is 1060 steel, the handle is walnut which was surprisingly hard compared to birch and the guard and pommel will be brass
  19. Hello fellow bladesmiths! I was contacted by a customer who wanted a simple 10th century sword. After discussing it a bit further, he has chosen a quite funny (at least in my opinion) sword It is described in Ian Pierce´s Swords of the Viking Age, page 122-123. I say funny, because the pommel is ridiculously small for the blade and cross dimensions... Well, here is my attempt. Blade is 78,4cms long, the grip 9,7cms. It weighs 1030g, and it´s blunt.
  20. Hello! Finally, I got to making swords! And while I have made several, this one isthe first I have ever made... I almost finished half a year ago, and then I didn´t have time for it, up untill now. It is my personal sword, and it is not a direct replica of any original. It is my own impression of type H. I´ve spent quite a lot of time thinking about what this type means to me, what impression it makes, and what feelings do I have when I look at various examples. The conclusion that I reached was that these swords create, at least for me, a very strong sense of "presence", almost if they bent matter around themselves (no, I didn´t take any drugs or alcohol before writing this ) . And so I made this sword. I call him "The Tutor", since he taught me a lot on the way. The blade is of spring steel, 70cms long, 5cm wide at the base and 3,7cms wide before the tip. It weights 1390g. Since it is my personal sword, and I like the swords to have their own "pull", I find this weight quite comfortable for my trainings. The PoB is 11cms from the guard, and the hilt is silver and brass decorated. The grip length is 8,9cms, so it hugs the hand nicely.
  21. I am trying to help solve a mystery about a type X viking sword unearthed fairly recently and in possession of a fellow just down the road from me. It was found in situ with the remnants of the scabbard and belt and the bronze and iron are all that was left when excavated. The brazil nut pommel is firmly in place, but there was no sign of the lower crossguard. In doing some research, I have found several other type X viking swords from the late viking period which are also missing their lower cross guards, but which have the brazil nut pommel firmly in place. When I had originally seen those swords, I had assumed that they probably had a bronze cross guard that broke off at some point in its past, but with this sword having been discovered with even the very thin bronze chape of the scabard intact (albiet in 2 pieces) it's fairly certain that this is not the case. I'm wondering if anyone had any insight. Here's the sword, only the two largest pieces have been stabilized with electrolysis, as my friend who is doing the conservation work on it fears to do anything with the smaller shards from further down the blade because nothing would probably come out of the tank at all. Here are two swords catalogued in Dr. Alfred Geibig's 1991 book on 8th to 12th century swords So it's apparently something common enough for there to be several good examples completely missing the cross guard, even in very good states of preservation. Right now I am just at a loss as to the why, was it an organic crossguard that didn't survive? perhaps bone or antler? I dont know that I've ever seen a brazil-nut pommel viking era sword with one though. In the interest of full disclosure, I would like to talk the current owner of this sword into selling it to me, but have not yet broached that subject with them as of yet.
  22. Hello to all of you. I am new to this forum and to bladesmithing. I'm a 24 year old man from Norway, and is an educated mechanic. As the title said "One hobby lead to another", and here is why. At the very first day of this year I was out swinging my metal detector when I came across a real Viking sword. Which turned out to be parts of the goods of a viking grave. (Archaeologists did the excavation) And I have to say, that feeling of holding that pice of iron in your hands. Then realizing it is a sword, a weapon of fear that quite possibly have killed men more then a thousand years ago. And also when holding the sword play with the thought of that the last person that had it in his hand was a Viking. Then, about 4 months later I discovered another grave! This time from the period before the viking age, Merovingian age. (if that is what it is called in English?) This time I realized it was a grave before pulling any artefacts out of the ground, The grave contained a sword, spearhead, axe, scythes, arrowheads, and more. I also a few days later found a viking age spearhed So now I really want to learn the art of bladesmithing to hopefully be able to replicate my finds. I do not yet have any tools or furnace, so thet will have to be built and bought first. Thank you for leting me into this forum
  23. There is a lot I wanted to ask about, so I'll keep it short and too the point. Basically, I'm a newcommer in the bladesmithing hobby who has more ideas and thoughts than are good for him. Just so no one starts attacking me with their knives yet, here are the questions that seem at least somewhat to make sense: What is the difference in forging knives and forging swords? Do we use a different type of steel, is it file vs. hammer, does legnth and amount come into effect? Why is it suggested that I start out with knives rather than swords? Can we make ballistic knives? Throwing knives? Poisoned filled weapons? What type of swords do you make, which ones are more popular than the others, which ones perform the best (weight, legnth, appearence) Can I put a little bit of fiber optic through the sword to make it look better, and how will it effect performance? Halberds? Spears? Axes? Weapons with blades at both ends? How? Could I make a weapon out of something non-metal like plastic? Could I replace certain parts of the wepon? What regulations did you commonly find when you made these forges? What rules on where could you place it, what type of fuel to use, what protection it needs? How does it change in a urban area? What shape is the best (based on end product) in your forge? What types of fuel show the least amount of smoke (specific brands please). Which blades are the lightest? How could you tint the colour of a weapon to make it look, for example, blue? How does it effect performance? Thanks in advance, Sagun Singh.
  24. More practice until the real thing. My latest waster. I took the time to weight it with lead to get the balance right. This is the handle wrap I made. I know the pictures are crummy (from my phone since I don't have the camera right now), but I hope you get the idea.
  25. Here are a few shots of the next build I will be attempting. It's got a few new things in this build that I have never done. Concave fuller (I will be making a fullering tool and forging first) Intricate 360º handle carving Inlaid copper wires in hilt and pommel I'm pretty excited about this commission project. Also, doing a digital rendering of the sword first was new and I can see how helpful that is going to be. Follow the build here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/bragi The client chose to go with option A, which quite frankly I was hoping to do anyhow. I would love to hear your thoughts.
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