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Found 59 results

  1. Just a link from the "Other Weapons" forum on Slinging.org http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1392982390 Feel free to move this topic if it's in the wrong place.
  2. Ok, so I'm all stoked to make a sword. My first inspiration came while I was on a walk, and found an antler that had a very inspirational branch-off that I immediately imagined as a sword grip. My second came from seeing a lot of pictures of the Ulfberht style blades and I'm considering doing something longer like that. The thing is, I'm not sure if the antler section will be thick enough to hold up to a sword blade of a little over a foot long, which is what I'm planning. The antler is about 3/4ths of an inch across the shortest point and 1 inch across the widest. I'm suspecting getting a bit o' 1084 from Aldo's for Christmas, so I'll wait until after then to begin, or order the steel. So, details about my two options. Antler Handled Blade. Blade will be a little over a foot long, similar in shape and size to the 2013 Arctic Fire blade, though the style of the antler makes me think of an arrow shaft, and so I'm considering a hint of an arrow's barb at the corners near the guard. A part problem will be balancing it out; antler is not very heavy and I do not really have ideas for additions to add to pommel weight, without destroying the pointy ends of the antler. For both blades I'll probably (unless I figger a way to cast bronze copper or pewter) forge the guard from steel, or copper if I can find enough. Width of the blade in front of the hilt about 4", while most of the blade is about 1.5" Ulfberht Style Blade. Most of my inspiration comes from the Bragi sword that was recently finished and the sword currently under construction by Rob Toneguzzo. I'm planning on forging the guard and pommel, either cocobolo or bubinga wood handle with mebbe a bit of carving. The blade would be 2 feet long, 2 inches wide at the hilt and slowly tapering to 1 inch where the point is then rounded. The length of the wood handle would be 4.5", the guard also 4.5" So, which one should I do? I plan on keeping at this, though it'll probably take a few months. Any tips or suggestions before I start out? Design tips? This is a big project and maybe too big for my britches, but it'll be fun (hopefully), stressful (almost definitely), and I'll learn a thing or two. I have to get the photos off of an Ipad so I may not have them up immediately.
  3. Dear All, I have today finally finished my first shortsword! This has been the first blade I have made just for myself and I love it, razor sharp and perfectly weighted for me (though this was luck and not skill!) I hope you like it, I welcome any comments as I kind of let this one go its own way. Specs: Blade: 100-layer Mild/Bandsaw damascus - 15'', widest point: 1.5'', thinnest: 1'' Handle: Mahogany with celtic knotwork pattern (my first attempt at carving) - 9.5'' Crossguard: Mild steel beaten from 16mm bar Sorry about all the photos! Cheers for looking, James
  4. lol, Not quite what you expected is it? I made this one on a whim a few weeks ago. I have Hans Tolfhoffers book on medieval combat on loan from the library and I figured that I might as well make a practice sword. I need another one and a friend to mess around with. I'll be making his twin sometime this or next week. Made the blade, tang, and pommel from northwest cedar. The reinforcement, crossguard, and grips are all white oak. It's finished with amber shellac and poyurenthane.
  5. This is a recent commision which has consumed my life for the last 9 months or so. It is forged out of 3/8" x 1 & 1/2" W2 bar purchased from Aldo Bruno, the NJ Steel Baron. The customer took a very active roll in the birth of this sword and had a hand in every step of the process. This would not work with everyone but, this time, it worked out beautifully and he has a true appreciation of all the hard work and artistry involved. Currently, the client is polishing the sword and it is between 900 and 1200 grits. I supplied it to him at a 600 grit finish. The owner of this sword (and his college age son) have been doing extensive cutting and he intends to use it during a cutting event sponsored by a local Aikido Dojo. I am eagerly looking forward to the event. STATS: W2 Steel 25" blade (right at the length of the largest historical example) 2 & 1/8" wide at widest point, just under 2" at narrowest point (1/8" wider than historical examples) 8" handle (from front of guard to end of rivet) Weight is just under 2 pounds (I added weight, in the form of lead shot, in the handle to balance the blade) Handle is constructed from Padauk wood, Cow bone, Bronze sheet, Steel rivet block, Lead Shot, and Epoxy Blade features a raised rib down the center, which is much wider than historical examples, with a re-inforced tip ~Bruce~
  6. So I have a sword i'm starting and its my first. I wanted to go with a water dragon or elvish like themes or both mixed but here it is. Details blade : 19 6/8' tang :7 5/8' overall 27 3/8' steel 5160 pics 1 sword cut out 2, drawing out tang 3, straightening 4, bevels more when i get the chance as always feedback welcomed and greatly looked forward to.
  7. I've started my fourth project, a Mainz Gladius. I am using 1084 this time and I'm pumped about my introduction into legitimate blade steel. I started with a 24" x 2.5" x .125 piece of steel. I have had to do a lot of compression on this one to get the blade into the right form due to the starting width. I've got to work up the sides to edge them and I'm trying to figure out if I should continue to bring in the width before I form the edges since I'm already at full width and I don't want to add to the length. I could just grind them in, but I just love using the hammer! I'm stoked about this project. It's the sword that initially peaked my interest in making swords in the first place, so I'm taking my time and trying to do this one well. Would love your thoughts and suggestions along the way. To keep the thread load time down I will have more images available here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/elysium
  8. This set I made a while ago for a client. The axe is D2 Tool Steel and the Sword is L6, I used varius hard woods for the handles.
  9. I finally got around to finishing the scabbard for this sword (pics here if you are unfamiliar with this work: http://bigrockforge.com/tiodhlac-gift-of-the-ghillie-dhu/ These are the final pictures before sending it off. The scabbard is Lake Superior diver-salvaged 'Flame Birch'. Three piece construction.. two morticed pieces and then a birch spacer in between. It is goatskin lined with fox fur at the throat. There is a copper chape and the throat is copper, birch bark with goat skin extending out to provide a nice soft landing for the cross guard. The fit is firm and secure. The wood is glued together but backed up with two twisted wire 'clamps' that would support it well in case of a glue failure. Not to mention the chape and throat pieces. The flame birch was hollow ground like the blade and finished with danish oil. The suspension is a simple braided tie of no particular time period. Just a simple system that I liked. The poem that accompanies the sword (Gift of the Ghillie Dhu) is laminated onto birch bark and shellaqued with copper nails and leather thong. Sad they always have to go.
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