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Hi, I'm new to bladesmithing, but I've got a fair amount of practice with wood. I just got the material for my first quench tube, an old Argon tank, and wondered if anyone had any ideas of what else I need to make it everything I need. I'll post pictures as I get things done. So fast I plan on cutting it open tomorrow and building a stand to hold and raise it. I'm not sure what I'll do for a living though. Also, if any of you live in DFW Texas the guy who supplied me with the tank said he'd love more business. Here's his most recent Craigslist, https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bfs/d/irving-120-aluminium-and-steel/7046444072.html

I am new to black smithing and would like to know what tools to get. What kind of welder? What kind ofPower hammer? What kind ofPress? What kind ofGrinder? What kind ofDrill? What kind of Hammer's/Tong's? What kind of forge both propane and coal? Maybe a resource to find this stuff cause my shopping list is getting expensive Blu Max 65 = $5,995 TW90 Grinder = $3,850 Baileigh Press HSP-20A= $995 Delta drill press = $1,048 Cutting torch = $929 Venturi forge = $700 Delta 28-400 Bandsaw = $698 Post vise/Leg vise = $550 Anvils (estimate) = $500 Rod Welder = $480 Angle Grinder = $169 Stationary buffer = $52 Hammer's = ?? Tong's = ?? Punches = ?? More? Any advice cause I'm feeling pretty overwhelmed.

Hey guys I just made a slot punch and a drift (almond shaped) in order to use the punch and drift method to forge an axe. I was wondering if you guys could critique them and tell me if you would make any changes. The slotpunch is unfinished but will look like the handled punch up top I got from GSTongs. Obviously I still have some grinding to do but I still have time! I saw this video where a guy drilled 2 holes about the length of his slot punch and then punched through normally. What is the purpose/advantage of this? Does it make it easier to keep the hole straight? Any other general tips on forging an axe in this method will be greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot guys. -Jeff F

A few handle broaches I have made. For those that don't know, a broach is used to enlarge and excavate the hole in your handle material for a hidden tang knife. They are pretty effective and I like using them. They are more or less just small saws. Both of these are 1080, one with Cocobolo and Copper and the other in Bloodwood and Ebony. The "blades" are 4.5 inches (11,4 cm) long, with total lengths of about 9 inches (22,9 cm). At the tip they are about 3/32 of an inch wide. Only the first inch or so is hardened. If you have made your own handle broach, please post it in here. I would love to see them. Thanks!

Hey all, My new Hay Budden anvil has a 4/5" hardy hole. Is that common? I've not found any places that sell hardy tools in that size, which means I'll have to make anything I need? The first thing I need is a hot-cut chisel, and I've never made one before. It seems pretty straightforward, however since I don't already have a hot-cut, I have to figure out how to cut a piece of tool steel to length. Could I cut it with my 14" cut-off saw or my bandsaw? Does anyone know a place that sells hardy tools that would fit? -Jeff

The video shows the process of how I did cutters for homemade lathe wood. Thank you for attention!

Posting this for a blacksmith/jeweler friend who is downsizing. Estate sale with tons of tools, tools for armoring, blacksmithing, jewelry tools and materials, glass and glass tools (mostly Bullseye), large quantity of leather, books (medieval, jewelry and art) and lots of other stuff. This may be more of a treasure hunt than an organized estate sale, but there is guaranteed to be interesting stuff. PM if you need any details. 9:00(no early shoppers please)-3:00 September 19, 2015 430 Bogert Ave. Ridgewood NJ

Someone gave me a couple of nice old lawn mower blades...nice because they are from a ride-on and are a little thicker, old because they are stamped,"made in USA"...I figured half of one looked quite a bit like the nata I often use for yard and forest work when visiting family in Japan. Nata come in various sizes and shapes, but most fit the description of a light brush hatchet or heavy camp knife. Common characteristics include thick spines and heavy blades, often with single beveled edges similar to Japanese wood chisels. This type work well for medium duty camp tasks, carving hatchet work, roughing and shaping, green wood work, and bamboo splitting. Similar to boat builders or timber framers slicks, they can make controlled straight slices due to their mass and chisel-like bevel. Another common variation has double sided bevels, cord wrapped integral handles, and curved or hooked blades for working in the rice fields. Most nata are permanently mounted to a hardwood handle because it is faster and easier for production. However, this piece has been assembled in the takedown style using elements of nihonto handle engineering and features swordsmith style hon-yaki edge hardening rather than a thin steel edge laminated to an iron body. Forged from half of an old lawn mower blade, nothing was wasted as the full volume of steel was reshaped into the nata blade. The ura (back side of the blade, in this case towards a right-handed users left side) has a slightly (~1mm) concave shape forged into it for the purpose of flat sharpening, and the omote (front side, to the right of the user) bevel was forged in roughly and filed clean before hardening. The ferrule tapers slightly outwards as the tang tapers slightly inwards. This allows for a snug fit of both parts to each other and to the wood. Getting close to a final fit! Because of the rectangular cross section and flat sides of the tang, all of the carving can be done on one side. The benefit of this method is that the stress will not be on the joint, but fully contained in one of the halves of the wood block. The handle is sapele wood, finished with fukiurushi, a technique of wiping on thin layers of natural urushi lacquer to fill the grain and bring out a rich, intense colour...similar to some types of tansu furniture made with keyaki (zelkova). more info on making a nata: islandblacksmith.ca/2015/06/making-a-hon-yaki-nata/

I'm looking to build a forge in Vancouver, Canada, but it's difficult to find a place in the city. So what I'm hoping on getting one started up on the outside balcony. Does anyone know a good forge set-up that's not too difficult to get started (and won't disturb the neighbors)? I need a smaller forge for the area I'll be working with (565 square ft). And it needs to be a propane or coal forge to fit their regulation standards (can't be a gas forge!). Biggest issue I need to take care of is eliminating the smoke or anything that may bother the neighbors or become a hazard. What would be a good affordable ventilation system for a set up like this? Thanks a lot guys. It's been ridiculous finding a place in the city- I've been itching to get started and would appreciate any help/advice Here's a picture of the area from the previous owners.

I got a first commission from a friend of mine, he wants and Irish scian im doing lots of research but to little avail. One of the things i want to do on this is to use a little bit of brass. I was thinking about using a 3 pound brass hammer from a hardware store but ive never worked with it before so i have some questions. 1 being how will this behave when forged do i need my gas forge set to lower temps does it move easy or tough. 2 would that cheap brass hammer be any good or is it a poor quality alloy. And 3 would it be better to just buy brass stock or sheets. if it is ok to forge the brass hammer down what are some pointers and any points in any better easier directions that might save me some headache?

So I am a 17 year old guy who just finished making a charcoal forge and have all the tools I need (to start at least) except a good anvil. I live in Saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada so not a lot of market for that kind of thing here and the only place I could find that sold anvils was Princess Auto and those were only 24 pounds and really small. I got one figuring "eh it will work" and so far my friend and I are learning that we really could use something bigger so we have more surface and it doesn't bounce (the actual anvil bounces when we strike the metal). I am just wondering if there are any good places online that sell anvils or if I should just watch places like ebay hoping that someone will be selling a good anvil? Any suggestions for this or any other tips for a beginner would be appreciated I am also having troubles getting the charcoal hot enough but that may just be a case of not using enough charcoal. But yes assistance and suggestions about the anvil would be great. Thanks all! -Justin Reynolds