Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'viking'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • Read before you register
    • Forum News
    • New Board Issues
  • New Work
    • Show and Tell
    • Photography
    • Video and Multimedia
    • Knives For Sale
    • Design and Critique
  • Old Work
    • History
    • Old Masters
    • Library
  • Forge Work
    • Hot Work and Bladesmithing
    • Hot Work
    • Bloomers and Buttons
    • Beginners Place
    • Teacher Directory
  • Forges, Tools, Equipment and Materials
    • Tools and Tool Making
  • Finishing, Tips and Tricks
    • Fit and Finish
    • Sheaths and Leatherwork
    • Carving and Applied Arts
    • Shop Safety
    • Non-Ferrous: fittings, alloys, patinas
  • Heat Treating
    • Metallurgy and other enigmas
    • Heat Treating by Alloy
  • Events
    • Events of Interest
  • Discussion
    • The Way
    • Fiery Beards
    • Books, Videos, and other Media
  • Tailgate Sales
    • Tools, Supplies and Materials
  • Hall of Fame
    • Nominations
    • Show and Tell Hall of Fame
    • WIP/Tutorial Hall of Fame
  • Pinned Topics
    • Pinned Show and Tell
    • Pinned Hot Work Topics
    • Pinned Buttons and Bloomers
    • Pinned Tools and Toolmaking
  • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Marks to be Identified
  • KITH
    • KITH 2011-2019
    • KITH 2020
    • KITH 2021

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. I found a 700gr hatchet in a market that had an elongated and teardrop "eye" for the handle with a beatiful shape. I took it with the idea of modifying it and obtaining a bearded one with the addition of a steel beard obtained from the leafspring of a truck thick enough to be forged. then I cut away a piece of the bevel of the purchased axe and welded the leafspring. then I forged the new bevel, reshape the profile, heat treated and sharpened it. with a nice piece of walnut I made the curved handle and with a piece of lthick leather a sheath to protect the edge (and myself). for those who w
  2. One of my latest ones, big boy blade
  3. Finally got some time in the shop, so I made a sheath and knife inspired by Viking finds from Gotland. The blade is commercial as I don't have a forge where I live at the moment, but I use them as cheap options to practice my fit and finish on handles and sheaths. There are a lot of 'first time' elements in this and there are definitely things I am not happy with, I can see where I lost focus. The handle is from reclaimed Birch, fittings are brass and the suspension ring is bronze. Leather is vegetable tan.
  4. This was a very pleasant commission to work on for me. I could practice a little more of inlaying and the results got better than i could anticipate, even if I have much to evolve in this art. The blade was mostly done by stock removal, but the tip and the tang were forged prior to the grinding. It was made using 1070 steel. The hilt is of a variation of Petersen's type L and it's components are made in mild steel and the inlays are nickel silver. The twisted wires are also nickel silver. It was then oil coated and lightly heated to make it look darker, so the contrast with the coope
  5. Hey everyone, just finished, or finished the rough finish on my "viking" axe, which now looks slightly more like a generic tomahawk sort of. As a beginner with only weeks of experience, I'd call this a major success and boosts my morale for gaining more and more experience. Obviously compared to most work on this forum this is in the range of bad to mediocre, but I'm pretty proud of it. Since I used a new hatchet head for the start, I had a lot of extra steel to work with for a smaller axe, and it was very hard to work out the shape I wanted from it since it needed a lot of modifying, might've
  6. Hey guys, as a beginner, forging for only a few weeks with only a few finished knives, I decided to maybe do a modification rather than a knife from scratch. Can't say it's good so far but after about 30 minutes in day 1 I'd say it's a start! I'd love to hear some honest feedback, how to make it better, and if it's a good start! Please no nasty comments, I'm very new at this and would like critique and not harshness, thanks! I'll continue to post my progress, may take a while to complete! Also, if I sprinkle some borax on the axe before I decide to treat it, will it make it look cleaner? I've
  7. Ok so as I mentioned in my last post I screwed up making a handheld viking style hatchet, so I went to Lowes and picked up a pretty cheap wood handle hatchet. It's not a bad hatchet, but the handle is on there good and I don't really want to ruin the handle or make it unusable incase the other handle can't be fit on. So I was wondering if anybody had suggestions for how I could get this handle out, most likely epoxy used too. Epoxy I could just heat up and soften it, but I have to loosen the wood first. I'm fine with drilling into the handle and patching it up later with glue or something, but
  8. Hello! Some time ago I have started the project of wolf teeth spearhead that Niels Provos had posted, and I discovered that in the middle of process So firstly, I want to show you ready spearhead, and then photos of process of forging step by step. Please enjoy and comment The spearhead's socket is 21cm long and blade is 45cm long and 7cm wide, socket is forge welded from old iron, blade is made of 50HF spring steel and low carbon S235 steel. Each teeth is welded from separate piece of tooth. Firstly , I drew the project in the 1:1 scale with ever
  9. Hello! I would like to offer my latest knife. The story if its creation can be followed here: It is a knife with a blade made of four bars - wrought iron, patternwelded rod of 9 layers, wrought iron again and high carbon steel on edge.The handle is ashen, hand-carved in ringerike style, the motif taken and adjusted from an 11th century brooch. At the end of the handle is a wrought iron butt cap and a loop, housing a brass ring decorated with triangles made of punched small 1mm circles. Also, there is a leather strap to make the pulling of the knife easier. The sheath features an an
  10. hey guys this isn't a blade but I thought I might share some of these forged steel strikers I've made. I got an order for some a few days ago and I really enjoyed making them. I made the smaller one for myself and the larger one was part of an order. Tell me what you guys think! -Jeff Fogleboch
  11. Good evening everyone! This is the latest knife I am making, and I´d like to share the process with you I decided to focus more on making knives as a whole, not only blades. That is not to say I am stopping blades, but I deffinitely want to finish more pieces It all started with me having a blade I really liked, and a piece of curly maple: I really wanted to do something in Urnes style which... I didn´t Somehow I am always drawn to the Ringerike style! In this case, the brooch below, particulary the beast portraited there, caught my eye... And so it began... I am st
  12. Good morrow, fellow smiths. I present for your consideration my first attempt at a small (one-handed) battle axe in the Viking mode. If I did my research right, this should be something like a Petersen type C axe, though I'm not going to try to claim historical accuracy on this one because the eye shape is a tomahawk-style teardrop, and because it's made of one solid chunk of steel. I documented the whole process so that those of you who know more than I do can critique it, and hopefully it will of value to those of you who are looking to get into axe-making. Anyway, without further ado, t
  13. Greetings everyone, I’ve got a commission that has started me down the multi-bar road, so I thought I’d try and do a WIP. The commission is for an anglo-taxon style broken back seax with an 18” or so blade. I decided to do a basic 3 bar blade with wrought iron on the top, a twist in the middle, and high layer count on the bottom: I made my 3 bars, the middle being 36 layers of 15N20 and 1095, and the edge was 432 layer of the same. I tried using hose clamps to hold the bar together and I thought it worked really well. I forged out the blade about 70% of the way
  14. Hi all ! It's my first post on this forum so I wanted to say hello and show you my pattern welded seax which I finished few days ago. Total length 47cm, blade 32cm Width 3,2 cm Maciej Leszczyński - Kuźnia Wilkowo
  15. So, I think this is the right place to put this. I found an interesting video on the YouTube channel Shadiversity regarding what we commonly call the "Viking sword," and whether or not that is an acceptable name. No endorsement implied, but I find his logic and proposals interesting, and he puts out some cool videos from time to time. I was curious, as makers, how folks here feel about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wyk2SJw39Z4 Hope I did that link right. First time posting from Chrome.
  16. This is a very special sword for me, as it both ends and starts the year. This was the last blade I quenched at 2016 and the first piece I finished in 2017. So it is kinda different. Forn Hrafn, or Old Raven is made to resemble a humble sword from the beginning of the ninth century Norway. This sword was made by stock removal (not forging, guys) from a piece of 1070 steel. It is heavily inspired on C10560 from Kulturhistorisk Museum from Norway. As I didn't have access to more material about this find, I used some of it's measures and invented others. As you can see on the pictures
  17. My end of a trade with a friend. We have done a lot of blacksmithing together and wanted a piece of each other's work (especially now that we live very far apart). So we decided to each make a knife for the other. He designed the handle carving to have urnes period viking style hawk and deer. It is a bit difficult to see the carving in the handle as the grain in the burl tends to hide it. This is a replacement for his everyday carry knife that broke, so it is a fairly simple blade that should be pretty useful for mostly anything. His original design sketch for the handle The final
  18. Hey, folks. This knife was a real pleasant work to do. Although unexpected, it came out better than I could have imagined. About the blade, it was handforged with a wrought iron spine and a bloom steel edge. The bloom was made by accident when I was trying to produce some shear steel with a wrought iron bar. The iron box in witch the wrought iron was simply melted down and so did the wrought, and then it all became a strange looking bloom with just a little slag from the refractory mantle that melted too. Then I refined it and found a very good amount of carbon in it. After that I covered
  19. Hey guys here is a small Viking axe I just finished. It's made from 1018/W2. This was my first time making an axe and forge welding so it isn't perfect. I have a few delaminations but overall I like it. Tell me what you think and I would appreciate critiques and advice. Thanks!
  20. 3 Fighting axes inspired by the Viking style. Mild steel bodies with bearing race edges forge-welded in. $175 each. Email adriaang66@gmail.com
  21. I finally got another blade out the door. This one was a commission for a very patient customer (Thorvaldr). I guess I'd call it a heavily historical fantasy seax. The blade is Aldo's 1084. It's 10" long, flat grind, 1/4" spine. It does taper ever so slightly from the peak of the spine back to the handle, but it's barely noticeable. The blade has younger futhark runes inlaid in nu gold (15% zinc, 80% copper). On the right side they say "Thorvaldr owns me" and on the left "MHB made me". The customer had his previous seax stolen so maybe have his name inlaid in the blade will deter th
  22. A couple things I have recently learned: I started to file the internal edges of the haft hole/eye. I used to leave it as forged which left the corner angle 90º. While it looked fine as soon as it was used those sharp angles would dig into the haft and mess it up and ruin the haft faster. Now that they have been slightly rounded there is very little damage to the haft when thrown or in chopping. I love making so much better from a rail clip than a rail spike. Although I can finish them to an extreme shine I prefer this medium finish. I just can't get the extra price out of a super shiny a
  23. Hello again! I have yet to get bored of axemaking, and i am always finding myself coming back to the subject. Here is another one, the construction method is symmetrically wrapped with a medium-carbon edge bit! It started out as a piece of mild steel, with the dimensions 12x35x190mm, and a small piece of ø25 round ck60 forged out to form an edge insert. The handle material is elm, and the axe is hafted from the top like a trade axe. Here it is, as forged and normalized And here it is after grinding, heat treat and polishing. And here it is as hafted.
  24. this sword was started at our hammer in last Oct (swords through the centuries) I welded up all of the billets and did some of the initial patterning in my demo. I have the sword all most finished at this point, so I will start were it is now and then go back to the beginning... might be a few posts I tried to get photos after each day I worked on the sword. patterning the 19 layer billet 19 layer billet welded to the serpent core, 40 layer edge bar ready to weld to the core billet welded, beginning to forge the blade blade forged to shape along with the second blade I forged from the bi
  25. Huginn + Muninn “O'er Mithgarth Hugin and Munin both Each day set forth to fly; For Hugin I fear lest he come not home, But for Munin my care is more.” Above excerpt from the Poetic Edda poem Grímnismál Fast and light it swings Like Huginn’s feathered wings. Quick and brute the seax Like Muninn’s angry beak. 15″ Blade (wrought iron, 1084, 15n20, 80crv2) 5/5” Handle (wrought iron, elk antler, teak) 20.5” Overall 1.2 Pounds 2.125” POB from the hilt If you check out the build thread here you will see where this went from being a 21" blade seax to a 15" blade sea
×
×
  • Create New...