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  1. this sword was started at our hammer in last Oct (swords through the centuries) I welded up all of the billets and did some of the initial patterning in my demo. I have the sword all most finished at this point, so I will start were it is now and then go back to the beginning... might be a few posts I tried to get photos after each day I worked on the sword. patterning the 19 layer billet 19 layer billet welded to the serpent core, 40 layer edge bar ready to weld to the core billet welded, beginning to forge the blade blade forged to shape along with the second blade I forged from the bi
  2. A couple things I have recently learned: I started to file the internal edges of the haft hole/eye. I used to leave it as forged which left the corner angle 90º. While it looked fine as soon as it was used those sharp angles would dig into the haft and mess it up and ruin the haft faster. Now that they have been slightly rounded there is very little damage to the haft when thrown or in chopping. I love making so much better from a rail clip than a rail spike. Although I can finish them to an extreme shine I prefer this medium finish. I just can't get the extra price out of a super shiny a
  3. Hello again! I have yet to get bored of axemaking, and i am always finding myself coming back to the subject. Here is another one, the construction method is symmetrically wrapped with a medium-carbon edge bit! It started out as a piece of mild steel, with the dimensions 12x35x190mm, and a small piece of ø25 round ck60 forged out to form an edge insert. The handle material is elm, and the axe is hafted from the top like a trade axe. Here it is, as forged and normalized And here it is after grinding, heat treat and polishing. And here it is as hafted.
  4. Huginn + Muninn “O'er Mithgarth Hugin and Munin both Each day set forth to fly; For Hugin I fear lest he come not home, But for Munin my care is more.” Above excerpt from the Poetic Edda poem Grímnismál Fast and light it swings Like Huginn’s feathered wings. Quick and brute the seax Like Muninn’s angry beak. 15″ Blade (wrought iron, 1084, 15n20, 80crv2) 5/5” Handle (wrought iron, elk antler, teak) 20.5” Overall 1.2 Pounds 2.125” POB from the hilt If you check out the build thread here you will see where this went from being a 21" blade seax to a 15" blade sea
  5. Hello! I have mostly lurked about this forum a lot because I'm not really a smith like you other guys. However, I would like to think I've made some decent knifes over the years and would like to show you some of my work. Short introduction. My name is Edvin Sjöberg, I'm from Sweden, 34 years and made my first knife in 2007. I studied Archaeology at Gothenburg University and also have a Bachelor degrees in Industrial Design from Gotland University. Now I have a small business named Audhumbla that makes viking style knifes and takes on different kinds of design work. I recently finished t
  6. I've been wrapping up some new axes. Railroad spike core with 1095 edges. They are nicely balanced and throw like a charm. I will be sad to see them go. See more here: Rashystreakers
  7. This is my first post here--I've been playing around with blacksmithing and casting for the past 7 or 8 years, and actually spent some time over the past few weeks to finish this project out. Even though I've made loads of knives in the past, this is my first big big project that I've managed to finish. I had some wrought left over from SOFA, and thought it might make an interesting blade. Blade is god-knows-what-wrought iron and 1080, fittings/handle are cast bronze, wrought and black walnut. Forgive the sheath and handle carvings, both first tries. The sheath fittings are copper sheet, fume
  8. Here are some pictures of a few recent pieces. ~Bruce~
  9. The Story: I made this knife the other weekend at a smithing demo my guild was doing in Myrtle Beach for a small ren faire. We had hammered away all day on custom pieces for people and as the crowd faded away toward evening one of the blacksmiths threw on some steaks. I realized I didn't have anything decent to eat or cut steak with so I quickly fashioned this eating knife so I could cut my steak with style. I also made a fork from a piece of old scroll work from Philip Simmons shop (he is our guild's name sake). The knife worked great and cuts steak like a boss. It also makes fast work of p
  10. I am trying to help solve a mystery about a type X viking sword unearthed fairly recently and in possession of a fellow just down the road from me. It was found in situ with the remnants of the scabbard and belt and the bronze and iron are all that was left when excavated. The brazil nut pommel is firmly in place, but there was no sign of the lower crossguard. In doing some research, I have found several other type X viking swords from the late viking period which are also missing their lower cross guards, but which have the brazil nut pommel firmly in place. When I had originally seen th
  11. Hello to all of you. I am new to this forum and to bladesmithing. I'm a 24 year old man from Norway, and is an educated mechanic. As the title said "One hobby lead to another", and here is why. At the very first day of this year I was out swinging my metal detector when I came across a real Viking sword. Which turned out to be parts of the goods of a viking grave. (Archaeologists did the excavation) And I have to say, that feeling of holding that pice of iron in your hands. Then realizing it is a sword, a weapon of fear that quite possibly have killed men more then a thousand years
  12. Here are a few shots of the next build I will be attempting. It's got a few new things in this build that I have never done. Concave fuller (I will be making a fullering tool and forging first) Intricate 360º handle carving Inlaid copper wires in hilt and pommel I'm pretty excited about this commission project. Also, doing a digital rendering of the sword first was new and I can see how helpful that is going to be. Follow the build here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/bragi The client chose to go with option A, which quite frankly I was hoping to do anyhow. I would lov
  13. I finally finished a baltic war knife I started in August of last year. It's made from Aldo's 1084. The blade is 15" long and 1.25" wide (381 mm by 32 mm). The spine is just under a quarter inch (15/64th or 5.8mm) at the handle and has a very slight distal taper out the where the point begins where it is 11/64ths (4.4mm). I hand finished it down to 600 grit. Grind is flat, and I bought the bevels in so that the edge before sharpening was between .5 and .6mm. I'm excited to take it to a few saplings this spring and see how it cuts. The handle is black cherry with a carving
  14. Working up a quick concept conversion for a leftover handle from the Brag build. I had carved the handle upside down. Now I am changing the lyre to an axe and a drinking horn. The blade will be a 19” seax from a reclaimed farriers rasp. Th he blade engravings will depend on the amount of left over rasp marks after grinding. I made quite a bit of progress today and am hoping to finish forging the blade this evening.I’m not sure what to call this yet. Any suggestions? I'd like to carve the name in runes somewhere, I don't know runes very well and would love some help at some point.
  15. This knife was dug up at the site of Staraya Ladoga in 1986 and just purchased by me from a private collector in Estonia (with a really @#%@#% nice collection, he sent me pictures of some of his nicer stuff... holy cow!) I probably paid too much for it... but it's extremely rare to find a blade in situ with the original scabbard still intact after 1100 years, and I wanted it bad =) While it's not in the greatest condition, you can see from it exactly how it was constructed, as the leather sheath and wood knife handle are still intact. Only one hanging ring is still attached, but as c
  16. Just a link from the "Other Weapons" forum on Slinging.org http://slinging.org/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1392982390 Feel free to move this topic if it's in the wrong place.
  17. Greeting everyone. I finally got another knife done. It's a small viking style with a 4.5" blade. I forged it from 3/16ths 1084 and tried to draw and grind the edge down quite thin before sharpening so it would slice well. I got it down to .5-.6mm before sharpening, and the result is that it sharpened up very quickly and slices like crazy. The handle is a piece of elk antler that being sold as a dog chew at my local feed store. It was too pretty and fit my hand too well to leave it to that fate. I took Miles and Jul's suggestion and attached it by making grooves across the tang, cut
  18. Ok, so I'm all stoked to make a sword. My first inspiration came while I was on a walk, and found an antler that had a very inspirational branch-off that I immediately imagined as a sword grip. My second came from seeing a lot of pictures of the Ulfberht style blades and I'm considering doing something longer like that. The thing is, I'm not sure if the antler section will be thick enough to hold up to a sword blade of a little over a foot long, which is what I'm planning. The antler is about 3/4ths of an inch across the shortest point and 1 inch across the widest. I'm suspecting getting a
  19. So while doing some file work on another knife and listening to some music i was suddenly inspired. The song i was listing to is preformed by a swedish metal band called Amon Amarth very deep into viking mythology. The song was Destroyer of the universe and describes the giant surtur who rises from muspheliem to literally destroy the universe and wage war on the asgardians and such. So somehow or another it struck me that i must when i have the skills enough to forge a beautifully pattern welded viking blade themed and of course made to look as if it would be weilded by the mighty surt himself
  20. While I have known Jeff Pringle for quite a while, I got to know him much better in 2009, while I was attending a university in California for my Masters degree. I was invited several times to drive up to Oakland for the weekend, slept on his couch, fondled his artifacts, read from his library, and worked in Jim Austin's shop down the road. During this time Jeff and I started tossing the phrase back and forth, "the price of knowledge." It might apply to any sacrifice one had to make in order to learn something. Usually it's our time, or the price of rare books, or the cost of a bribe to ge
  21. This is my second RR spike hawk, this time using the head end of the spike for the cutting edge. The last one I mis-centered the punch, and though I did go through with it (due to time limits), I really wish I had more time to start over. Thanks Mr. Florianek- really should have listened and started over immediately. I have learned my lesson. Always listen to Petr . The blade took me about three days, and the handle only one. As I said, blade is HC RR spike- not sure about the handle. I recently watched the Ulfberht documentary and have been fascinated with Viking weaponry, so this has been
  22. Trim the orange edges to complete the profile DONE Finish the finish… er, sanding/polishing DONE Etch the design on both side SKETCHED (I haven't etched/carved it yet, just photoshopped my sketch to test it, thoughts?) Make and mount the handle Figure out something to carve on the handle Sell it… any takers? See the full sized images here.
  23. So here is a fun project I was working on while hanging out at Dave Delagardelle's this past weekend, this axe head was greatly exaggerated from one of his sketches but I think it came out well. Dave was kind enough to give me some wrought iron he had to use in the axe body and to kindly let me use his press. I welded up a 16 layer mini billet of 1095 and 15N20 to make the edge and wrapped it in the body of wrought iron. Having almost no experience working with wrought this certainly was interesting and I will definitely be experimenting with it in the future. I also decided that since this a
  24. hello Gents! i offer you a sneak peek to my latest accomplishments all coments are welcomed
  25. The blade is right around 18" the fittings are made of brass with Moose antler and curly maple the blade is 7 bar composit done atthe brookfield craft center hammer in as a demo, 7 layer straight 4bars- 7layer twist 1 7 layer straight and the edge is a 25 layer twist. the 7 layer bars are 1095/ 15n20 and 4340the edge bar is L6/1095it can very close to riping it's self apart in heat treat... This one is entered into an art show in guilford CT and will be available for sale after I complete the sheath opon it's return. let me know what you all think! MP
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