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Found 4 results

  1. I completed my first (and so far only) sword almost exactly a year ago, a hira zukuri wakizashi with wrought iron cladding. The construction is san mai with a 1095 core and a 15n20 contrasting layer. The cladding is twisted wrought iron and O1 tool steel. The blade was not deferentially heat treated, so no hamon; there would not have been much room for it, and I felt it would visually compete with the cladding. Besides, I was in over my head already with this project so I thought I'd stick with my regular HT routine The engraved habaki and seppa are brass and the tsuba, fuchi and kashira are wrought iron. The ito is silk, over a full same wrap with minimalist menuki made with leftovers of the cladding billet. All in all, this took about 160h, not counting research and practice. Yes I am slow but I learned a huge amount. It definitely has its flaws (for instance, the core could have been better centered, and the overall blade geometry has issues), but I feel that wasn't too bad given my first knife, from stock removal, was a year before. A few weeks back, I started working on its big sister, a katana with a similar construction. I just finished the forging, so at my pace of work, it should be done in what... four or five months?
  2. This is the blade I was meant to make for my kids mum for mothers day (separated but still really good friends). First blade had a crack when i was sanding it so i scrapped that piece and grabbed a new bit of leaf. somehow it has ended up as a 52cm blade with a very slight curve that very closely resembles a wakizashi. Maybe just maybe I used to much metal lol So that is what I have decided to make it. Now I have 0 experience with this type of blade. Iv never done anything on this size and never done a scabbard out of wood. Also never done a hamon. So my questions are as follows. What clay is best for a nice clear hamon? And can anyone give me a step by step on how to do a scabbard that matches up to the handle out of wood? Pictures if possible. And any problems I might run into when finishing this blade??
  3. Hey guys here is a wakizashi that I'm working on currently. I'm in the process of polishing and I'm thinking I'm just going to sell it with blade only. I tried making a saya and it was soooo much more challenging than making one for a tanto...I'm not sure if I can make one for this blade that will do it justice...I need a lot more practice on my shirasaya making...anyways tell me what you think . I forgot to mention, this was water quenched and I must say...getting that whole blade up to temp and even in my tiny forge was a challenge for sure! As you can see the boshi is a little too far back on the blade but oh well...ill do better next time
  4. Here's the exciting news. I actually mounted a blade for the first time in ages. The bad news? Well, uh...it's not this one. So, once again, here's another bunch of shots of an unmounted blade. Sorry guys. But I promise you I'll show the mounted blade as soon as the lacquer dries and I can get it buffed out. Anyhoo, that said, I really liked how the blade shape worked out on this one. The difference between a mediocre blade shape and decent one is often really, really subtle and it's always frustrating as hell to get to the end of a project, look at the final product and go: "Huh. It seemed a lot better when I was making it." So I'm relieved this one worked out the way I imagined it. Parenthetically, sometimes because of a camera lens distortion effect known as "barrel distortion" the geometry of the blade as you see it in real life is also subtly different from the way it looks in the photo. That's sort of the case here, though I think the picture is pretty much close enough for rock and roll. The blade length is a hair over 12 inches and the total length is around 16 1/2, fairly slim and light. It's forged from the same billet of 1000 layer 1050/1095 as the tanto I showed on here a couple of weeks ago.
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