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  1. So I started a tanto the other day, and included it in a post. I also promised to keep it updated, so this is where I'll do that. Started with a Diamond file, and it turns out that files are just about the perfect stock to start a tanto with. It should be noted that my process for this is primarily stock removal, as I'm a lot more competent in my abilities to create symmetrical blades this way than forging. Some of the profile as well as a distal taper were forged in, but mostly it's stock removal. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures of the file before I started working. I guess a file's
  2. So, I got in the forge today and felt a little bit froggy. So I picked up a rather large piece of 1075 that I had lying around and decided that I saw a langsaex hidden inside. Only one picture so far, and a concept sketch will come a little bit later because I haven't quite decided what to do with the hilt. I just picked up the steel and said "what the hell, let's make a sword." As is fairly typical with my projects, the planning will come after the project has begun. I'll be doing some research tonight, and may have some concept sketches by tomorrow. The reason I'm calling it a bastard saex i
  3. So, remember the picture I posted a while back of the piece I was working on that I was likely going to send to the YouTuber Skallagrim? Turns out, that will not be the one I send. I got a design from him yesterday, and will begin work on it soon. I will post pictures as I progress with it.
  4. I forged this one out of 5/8" round W1. I did a clay harden on it and a bit of carving on the handle. so here is the finished piece and some in progress pics
  5. This is a big saex style blade that I've been working on, 1055-1060 (railroad clip). This may end up not being a saex at all when I finish this, as it's probably going to end up going to youtuber Skallagrim for a review and as a gift. It's still very rough and likely to have a lot more work done. It's definitely a beefy blade, though. It's 1/4" thick at the base of the blade, 1 5/8" wide, 6 1/2" blade, 14 1/2" overall. Pic below:
  6. Someone write down that I'm the first to post a WIP for the 2014 KITH. Anyway, I've drawn up a design for a heavy Indian hunter, or maybe war knife. It'll be nice to put in my silversmithing skills finally. The blade will be 1084, forged fairly thin. I may decide to use no electrical equipment in its construction. Blade will be inlayed with brass, carved in while annealed and inlayed with annealed brass after heat treating. I'd like to inlay it beforehand, and so melt the brass in place, but it may drip out. I've experimented a bit with pewter casting, and so will cast a handle from th
  7. Hello all, Now that it is the first week of school, in the first month of the year, and the my last semester in this Professional Crafts program I think it is time to start my first sword! Actually, that is not entirely true, as I will be working on two swords, in case one doesn't work out. I've already posted the original designs here: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=28294, but here they are again in full scale (not that you can tell): Both swords are about 42" overall (the upper is exactly 42"). I slightly modified the width of the guard on the lower swor
  8. this project was born when I picked up a stick in the park. I noticed how greatly the balance affected how I could swing it and that made me think of swords. Realizing that I could not make a sword when I have never even made a gaurd I decided to go with a smaller blade at first. dangit Caleb you spread the sword fever to me. This started as a peice of leaf spring that is apparently not 5160(it was from an old ford f150). forged down to thickness and lenght before forging the tang. I don't have a fullering tool so I just used the edge of my anvil. Tang forged! forging the tip: en
  9. extra slim longsword, started from a bar of 18mm ∅ U8A, almost ready for heat treatment. blade 777mm handle 777/3=259mm point of balance 259/2=129.5mm from hilt. blade thickness at POB 7.77mm blade width at POB 22.2mm
  10. I haven't had much time in the shop so I thought I would post what Iv'e been working on. These are part s a comission I have been picking at. The order is for two matching coffin handle bowies. This is my first match set so planning has eaten a lot of time but it has paid off. Let me know what you think. The customer picked the blade and gaurd style so the look is a little less than traditional!!! Kip
  11. Aldo's O1. 6" hollow grind, about 16" OAL. Was going to be double edged, or a false edge on the back. Not sure i want to mess with it. Time for bolsters and scales. thanks, -brian m.
  12. Last night I got home from work at about 5:30 and went straight to the forge. After about 4.5 hours of forging, I then annealed the blade in sand over night. This morning I got up good and early and began grinding. I've only got the rough grinding done, but I thought I'd post a pics as I go. As always, your criticism is welcome, And I appreciate your time! -=James Fuller=-
  13. Aldo's 1095. 6" hollow grinds, double edged. Not sure what the scales or bolsters will be yet.
  14. Aldo's 1095. Shortened by about 1" because I put it spine down on a really hot brick in the tempering oven after quenching and it went PING! I don't think the edge was ready for that kind of thermal expansion. Actually I don't know what happened, but I should have probably interrupted the quench sooner and not dropped the whole knife into the tank.. oh well.
  15. Aldo's O1 steel. 10" swept hollow grinds. This one has a pretty long point, looks menacing. 17" length, 1/4 spine. The tang needs tapering and I forgot to remove some material by drilling. After I drilled and chamfered the pin holes I went right down to heat treat it. I want to do white copper or copper mokume bolsters. The only white copper I have is a roll of brake line though. And black horn. or some jet stone..
  16. Started making a mushroom hunter's/utility knife for an avid mushroom and ginseng hunter. The steel is from a Nicholson file and I plan to have the handle made from walnut with pewter bolsters. There are some interesting looking swirls in the blade upon etching. Not quite sure how that happened. Maybe someone can tell me? I normalized 3 times, quenched twice in canola oil, and tempered 3 times at 450F. I was worried that I may have messed up the heat treat but the blade can be bent and returns to its original shape and it holds quite a nice edge. Let me know your thoughts!
  17. just needs oiled, assembled and sheathed. 1095 water quenched with auto-hamon, carved red deer antler and carved elm:
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