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Found 13 results

  1. So I gave this a try: San Mai of 1095 core and 410SS jacket. Starting pieces are 3/16" thick and either 5-1/2" or 6" long by 1-1/2" wide I then used the TIG welder to fuse all the edges closed. And welded the billet to a handle. After forge-welding in the press, I ground the edges clean (or sort of clean) Intermediate forging pic of tapering the end to a point. I didn't get many photos during the forging process, but eventually, I went to grinding and HT. Here are three blades at 320 grit finish. The secret lies hidden.
  2. I did a site search on Google foor this topic and only found one discussion that didn't yield much, so I'm asking again. I recently started using 1095 in my Damascus and I have this multi-bar pattern all welded up and ready to accordion cut. I normalized 3X and set the bar to anneal. The bar measures 1-1/2" x 7/8" x 8" Into the Paragon: Ramp up to 1450 @ 250 degrees per hour, hold for 1.5 hours Ramp down to 1200 @ 100 degrees per hour hold for 1 hour Turn off oven. This would not cut on the bandsaw (at least not very easily, it killed two blades before cutting 6 lines each about 3/4" long) A
  3. Have a quick question. Is it possible to get a hamon besides using clay? Ive never messed with hamons at all yet but seems like i have a faint one going on in my recent blade. its a damascus chefs knife comprised of 1095,15N20 and nickel sheet. any ideas? Heres a picture and ill try and take a better one to show you what I'm seeing. along the edge is a faint shadow. Thanks
  4. Well Its been a while, but I am back in Thunder Bay Ontario and back in the shop. I have finished a half dozen blades or so, and decided to work on something for myself. I also decided to take some pictures to remember the process. I bit the bullet and ordered some 1095 and 15n20 steel to do a Pattern welded blade. I have done low layer count blades in the past and also worked with steel cable, but this was to start with a 21 layer count, and hopefully end up some where around 200 including a 1095 core. If you have any questions or general tips for me, feel free to drop a comment.
  5. walnut scales, copper pins wth high test epoxy, 1095 blade steel with wedge grind, kept it slightly rustic so that it wuld have charicter, full tang, and first attempt at a sellable knife.
  6. Ok I've used 1095 O1 and 1080 for blades but it's been hard to come by but I have a ready supply of 440C stainless can I use this during stock removal or is it useless
  7. Hi all, I've been lurking here for a while, but wanted to share what your collective knowledge helped me achieve. This is my first real attempt at forging a knife. It is my take on a yanagi ba style knife. It is made from 1095 steel differentially quenched in brine for 3 seconds and then into canola oil. I ultimately decided that I liked the hamon better without etching it so I polished it back out. You can almost see it in one of the pics. There are a lot of flaws in the knife, but the pics hide them pretty well. I learned a lot from this one and it won't be my last. Here ar
  8. I'm almost done with my new knife. All I have left is the sharpening. Till I get that done, here's some pics of the process starting with the blade with clay on. The clay I use is Rutland's Furnace Cement. Helpful criticism very welcome. Also, after this knife is complete, I'm going to make a Japanese style straight razor. But the only belt sander I have is the Harbor Freight 1 x 30. So any tips on how to go about doing a hollow grind on one side would be appreciated.
  9. Last night I got home from work at about 5:30 and went straight to the forge. After about 4.5 hours of forging, I then annealed the blade in sand over night. This morning I got up good and early and began grinding. I've only got the rough grinding done, but I thought I'd post a pics as I go. As always, your criticism is welcome, And I appreciate your time! -=James Fuller=-
  10. Kitchen knife I made for the wife. 1095 with paper micarta handle. Let me know what you guys think.
  11. Kitchen knife I made for the wife with paper micarta handle.
  12. Howdy folks, I am happy to announce that I finally have my new shop up and running as good as opening day at Disney Land. So far, in the last month, I have had more failures than in the whole of my knife making experience. I started using new steels (1095 and L6) and experimenting with them to find a good heat treat has been actually a lot of fun. I now have a grand total of 5 broken blades! 1095 blade after the quench. A total of six cracks are visible I had it stuck in my mind after the first broken blade that no matter what, I was going to quench my 1095 in water. I
  13. SAM_6068 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6069 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6070 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6072 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6075 by djs1984, on Flickr SAM_6078 by djs1984, on Flickr This Knife is one of our first two narrow tang knives, this is our first attempt at a blind tang. We used 1095, Cocobolo Handle and brass for the guard and 3/16 pin. This knife was clay coated and differentially heat treated. A high polish, and Acid etched to give it a more rust Resistant finish, and bring out the Nice activity in the hamon. ---------------------------------Knife Details-----
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