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Found 5 results

  1. I know what I could have done better, but have at it. Thoughts?
  2. I thought this question was better off here than in heat treating. We have seen that a hamon CAN be created in 80CrV2 but since it is a deep hardening steel it is sort of fighting what the steel wants. I have seen reports of alloy banding showing up in hamon attempts. Given that the Japanese hamon came about from differential quenching/hardening to give a hard edge without a brittle overall blade, has anyone found a downside, with regards to the integrity of the blade, from forcing hamon in 80CrV2 ? I can't see it as a problem with the cutting edge as long as temps are in the normal range, it's the rest of the blade I'm curious about.
  3. Is there any significant difference between the 80CrV2 from Aldo (New Jersey Steel Baron) and Alpha Knife Supply? I am not worried about price but AKS has some dimensions that would be a bit friendlier to a project. I must commit stock removal. As Grandpa said, "There's more than one way to skin a cat but you won't get a decent answer asking the cat which way he prefers."
  4. If you are using only Aldo's 1084 and 80crv2 with stock removal technique, is it necessary to normalize? It would save me a lot of decarb...
  5. Greetings everyone! I wanted to give my twisting machine/jig a workout (the twist-o-matic). Plus, I wanted to actually make a European sword. After all, I have only made seaxs. Or Chinese stuff. Since I have made a couple of bauernwehrs, and no one really seems to be making a lot of messers, I thought I would give it a shot. This is truly a, "work-in-progress." I am not too far along, and there are about a thousand ways that this can fail. By the way, my quench tube is full of Parks 50. Do you guys think Parks is OK to use with 80crv2 and O1, or should I go with something slower by a tad? There are 3 twisted bars. Each of these has a mass ratio of 4:3:2 (80crv2/O1/15n20). The edge is, "piled" construction, which means 7 layers. The ratio of this is not as neat as the others, but there is less 15n20. The edge will be 80crv2 and o1. Here are the stacks with handles welded on. I welded them all together without any flux, and it works great! welded, drawn, and made into octagons for twisting (about 3/4" in diameter). New anvil stand deserved a pic (compare this to the plastic tub full of dirt it was sitting in above - see first pic of anvil in this thread)! The arm is of the rolling captain's chair I have in the shop, for when I am waiting for things or when I am working with jeweler's or engraving stuff. The Twist-o-matic 3000 working hard. Inside that little firebrick forge, about 1.5" of the bar reaches a screaming welding heat. I just move the forge along the bar, one inch at a time. That is what the chalk marks are for. Move an inch, soak at welding heat for a couple of minutes, and give it 1.5 revolutions. Move another inch, repeat. I could easily do 3 rev's per inch with these steels. This little forge just sips the propane. I LOVE IT. I am going to use it for small knives, too. I built a mounting bracket, so the forge can come off of the post-and-rail assembly. Cool, isn't it. You know you should take a day and build yourself one of these (two if you build your own forge). Twisted and squashes to .625". I cut the end off of the bottom bar, because I did not like the look of that one spot. You can see the fourth bar on the floor by my foot. Here I am cleaning and squaring. Both are CRITICAL. If not clean, no welds. If not square, then the whole thing will shift as it welds, and you will get a crazy pattern where some bars are very small and others are very large in appearance. You need rectangular or square cross-sections. So, after clean, these were about 1/2" square bars.
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