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Found 5 results

  1. I know what I could have done better, but have at it. Thoughts?
  2. I thought this question was better off here than in heat treating. We have seen that a hamon CAN be created in 80CrV2 but since it is a deep hardening steel it is sort of fighting what the steel wants. I have seen reports of alloy banding showing up in hamon attempts. Given that the Japanese hamon came about from differential quenching/hardening to give a hard edge without a brittle overall blade, has anyone found a downside, with regards to the integrity of the blade, from forcing hamon in 80CrV2 ? I can't see it as a problem with the cutting edge as long as temps are in the normal range
  3. Is there any significant difference between the 80CrV2 from Aldo (New Jersey Steel Baron) and Alpha Knife Supply? I am not worried about price but AKS has some dimensions that would be a bit friendlier to a project. I must commit stock removal. As Grandpa said, "There's more than one way to skin a cat but you won't get a decent answer asking the cat which way he prefers."
  4. If you are using only Aldo's 1084 and 80crv2 with stock removal technique, is it necessary to normalize? It would save me a lot of decarb...
  5. Greetings everyone! I wanted to give my twisting machine/jig a workout (the twist-o-matic). Plus, I wanted to actually make a European sword. After all, I have only made seaxs. Or Chinese stuff. Since I have made a couple of bauernwehrs, and no one really seems to be making a lot of messers, I thought I would give it a shot. This is truly a, "work-in-progress." I am not too far along, and there are about a thousand ways that this can fail. By the way, my quench tube is full of Parks 50. Do you guys think Parks is OK to use with 80crv2 and O1, or should I go with something slowe
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