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Found 38 results

  1. Finished this up a little while ago and thought it was worth showing. It started with half a broken chain hook which wanted to be a knife, but since a test chunk wouldn't harden it became a rather large guard instead. The end result is funky late medieval falchion - bowie hybrid which overall I was pretty happy with. Handle is blackwood and the sheath is laminated lacewood veneer dyed black, I got that idea here. The fittings and sheath were pretty time consuming, I almost wish I had put them on a sword. Interestingly everything on the knife is second hand materials, even the blackwood was salvage, a section off of a few logs found in an old machine shop before it was torn down. Thanks for looking!
  2. Lightweight W2 custom harpoon clip point bowie with a beautiful hamon. Full tang construction. Removeable Carbon fiber, blue and black g10 scales. Titanium hardware with stainless steel pivots. Kydex/ leather sheath with American flag made by Grommets leathercraft. Slight wear marks from being inserted/ removed. Asking $400 shipped in the lower 48. Check out more work on instagram rmor_knives. And rmorknives.imgur.com.Thanks for looking. 7 inch cutting edge, approximately 2 inches wide. Unfortunately I currently have no scale to measure weight. Feels light in hand for size
  3. I put this one together at the beginning of the year. Forged from an old file with brass and salted maple for the handle
  4. I'm not sure this will work. I've lost power at the house and only have my phone on mobile data....... There was a question about how to grind the bevels in a clipped point on a Bowie knife on another forum especially a curved clip and I put together a short video of how I do this. The video is about 18 minutes long, but the grinding is less than 10 minutes. In a short time, I take the bevels from zero to 220 grit.
  5. Hi all just want to show you my second ever knife. I have a very active mind and when it comes to deciding what I would like to make the list is just too long for me to choose, so I decided to make knives as gifts for family and friends. The first of which is this one. My friend has just gone out to do his second stint in south Africa working with an anti-poaching unit to protect rhinos and elephants. He was looking for a nice knife to take with him and I told him I would make him one. After a short discussion on what he wanted ( basically leaving it up to me) I drew a few designs and he picked his favourite. Here it is a Bowie fighter, 12.5" overall, 8.5" blade forged from land rover leaf spring and hand sanded to 400grit satin finish. Brass guard, wild African olive wood handle and a brass/turquoise pin. The knife taught me an extremely large amount, the learning curve was like climbing a shear cliff face but I took it in individual steps instead of thinking about the process as a whole too much after the design phase. Hope you like it any feedback is welcome as I want to know what I can do better next time.
  6. Hey guys, I’ve been working on a Bowie knife from the second half of an old prybar (that hardens well), and this is my first real Bowie and I want a hidden tang to stay true to the classic Bowie shape. I’ve never done a hidden tang before and thought I’d ask a few questions before I continue to hammer out the tang because the last thing I want to do is ruin this knife because it looks good so far. So here is my knife after about an hour and a half (2 days of forging). I like the shape and think it can turn into something nice, but the tang is weird right now. It is not centered and it’s almost aligned perfectly with the top...how can I drop that tang down so that it is centered with the knife? I was thinking I can put the bottom part on the horn and just hammer from the top but I’m not 100% sure... this is really my only question but feel free to add additional tips I should know before attempting my first hidden tang
  7. Hello all! It has been awhile since i have posted anything, as I haven't really done anything worth posting recently to be honest. A few weeks ago I decided I wanted to just make something again. I have several 3/4 in thick leaf springs from my fathers old truck laying around, so i got the idea to see just how well i could estimate the material necessary to forge everything out. It turned out really well and i am very pleased with it. Unfortunately the smallest contacct wheel I have access to is 4 in. so i was not able to clean up the fuller. For the handle I decided to try out g10, as i have never used the material before. i really like how it turned out, but man.. does it stink. Final dimensions are: 16 in overall 11 in blade length 2 1/4 in wide
  8. While doing the modern bowie hunter (rasp knife) for my friend I had it in hand numerous time in the handle making and finishing stage and became quite enamoured of the style I got orders for another two and while I was cutting them out I decided to do something with a large slasher blade I had been given some time back. I hadn't wanted to cut it up for smaller blades so after seeing a number of larger bowies on the forum and elsewhere I decided to use it for as large a knife as I could get from it, so drew one out to see what it might look like I welded a piece of 1084 to the end so I could get a full tang handle as I hadn't wanted to go with a hidden tang. I didn't want to do the hidden And profiled it to give me a knife with an over all length of 15 3/4 inch laid up beside these other blades with the top one having Myrtle scales, the center one having Rimu and my one having bluegum. so what do you guys think of the large blade as far as design and style goes. The top two are orders and made to suit the the comisions requirments
  9. I know it's been a while since I've been on, but I just finished this commission piece. The customer wanted Bowie and instead of making just a regular one, I opted for something a tad bit different. I wanted to do a piece that paid homage to the original, but slightly updated. I came across a few pictures of one that was used during the battle of San Jacinto, Texas. The lines, shape and overall coolness sealed the deal. What you see here is my take on that blade, with some subtle changes. Instead of having 6 to 8 pins for the handle scales, I used 4, along with a brass guard and walnut scales. The blade is forged from leaf spring.
  10. This knife has been raised out of the Graveyard of Broken Dreams, and returned to life! (yeah, I know. Another bloody Bowie knife) Stats: 8-7/8" 1095 blade, NS guard, frame and center spacer. O-1 blued spacers. 410 SS with black fiber liners. The finial is made from a ball bearing. Handle scales are stabilized black ash. 1/16" NS pins, domed and polished. You can see the Hamon (only got a pic of one side) in I Want to See Your Hamon.
  11. Skogr Brandr - The Forestblade Blade length: 23 cm Blade width: 3,2cm Handle Length: 12,5cm Total weight: 305 grams The steel is 120 layers of twisted UHB20C, UHB15LM, 15N20, old rasps and Øberg-steel. Differential hardened. Hamon disappears towards the middle of the blade though. I suspect the clay came off quickly during quench. Handle is colored and stabilized buckeye burl fastened with a mosaic pin. Sheath is stained and waxed leather. Stitched using saddle-maker technique. Enjoy. hope you guys liked it. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  12. This has been a prototype I've been developing for a while and am happy to finally show off! Waterjet cut then forged 5160 blade with integral guard. Handle window contains dried autumn leaves suspended in alumilite. Next I'll be working on different versions of this with various blade styles and handle materials ranging from crushed egg shells to solid cocobolo to antler. Leme know what yall think!
  13. I just finished these up this morning. After seeing me do another Bowie, my friend wanted me to make him a pair of smaller versions. The blade blanks were forged out from leaf spring scraps I had from previous projects, then shaped, ground, and heat treated. The brass guards are from some bar stock, and the handle material is walnut. My friend wanted true coffin style handles, which I haven't tried yet, but these came out nicely. I beveled the handles to mimic the old style coffins, so the handles now have an octagon cross section and an awesome hand feel.
  14. R.W. Deavers

    1836 Texan

  15. Here are my two latest: An O-1 hunter with 416 guard and spacer, with Ironwood handle. 4.5" blade, 9" OAL. and another freakin' Bowie. You guys have seen this handle design before........ This blade is 1095, 9.25" long. The fittings are brass and nickel-silver. The handle is stabilized box elder burl. Thanks for looking. Comments welcome.
  16. Here is the latest thing to emerge from my shop, and just in time too, I have to deliver it tomorrow! Unfortunately, that means I don't have the time to take any really good pics. Specs: 1095/15N20, 7.5" blade, 12" OAL. Nickel-silver (Ni/Si) fittings with minor silicon bronze spacer. Black micarta scales and rope filed frame. Flush Ni/Si pins.
  17. This is a video of Jen-Louis Regel showing how he creates what I think is the coolest take-down frame handle designs ever made. He is very French and there is an interpreter and lots of background noise so turn up the volume and pay attention.
  18. This knife was made with a bit of story attached to it. It is a gift for my Uncle, who is damn near 80 and has been quite an influence in my life. He grew up in the back woods of Southern Alabama (where lots of my family still lives), joined the Navy (his original Navy pea coat hangs in my closet), and then went to art school eventually becoming a life long professional photographer and artist. He traveled the world taking pictures, and crisscrossed the US more times than I can count taking more. I lived with him for a few years while going to school and he has always been one to really encourage me to do something great. Always supportive, but not one to mince words; he would tell me when he thought I needed to fix something or do something differently. I am grateful to know him; he is a great man. So with that being said, I made a knife that I tried to make look as though it has lived a long and well used life. The blade has been aged. The handle was abused so it would have nicks, scratches and dents. The finish is uneven on it. But at the same time, I didn't want it to look worn out, but instead, still strong, sharp and keen. As though the use didn't beat it down, but made it harder. I hope I accomplished that. So enough of the mushy stuff. Here are the specs and pictures. Steel : Aldo's W2 (yes there is a hamon under the patina!) Guard : Rust blued mild steel and copper Handle: stained and aged Goncalvo Alves Blade Length: 6.75 inches OAL: 11.5 inches
  19. I have decided to start a video series on a stag antler Bowie knife build. I have completed the first video of the blade forging. It is about 56 minutes long because I talk about what I'm doing and why rather than just showing the hammer hitting hot steel and letting the viewer try and figure out what is going on. I hope to make a series of these videos of the entire WIP on this knife. Maybe this weekend I can get to grinding, heat treat and finishing the blade.
  20. Just forged these three knives out, the largest one has an 8 inch blade. The seax/bowie hybrid and the large bowie are made from 5160 and will be edge quenched, the smaller Bowie is made from a rail anchor(modified 1060) and will be clay quenched in an interrupted water-oil quench to obtain a hamon.
  21. This is ABS Mastersmith Kevin Cashen talking about the making of the ABS Board Knife for this year. It is a substantial Bowie with 1095 and Hamon, walrus ivory handle and Damascus fittings. As is typical with Kevin, there is a lot of info and a quirky sense of humor.
  22. Here is the latest. I called it the Rifleman's Bowie because I took a picture of it with my rifle. That's pretty much it. The steel is Aldo' W2, differentially heat treated to produce a hamon. The hamon is ok, not as active as I wanted, but them's the breaks. I had already heat treated it twice and I had no desire to temp the fates for number three. The wood is stabilized maple burl, which the pictures hardly do justice to. It is gorgeous, with tons of birdseyes, little whorls and other cool stuff. I'm just not good enough with a camera to bring it out. The fittings are silicon bronze, lightly textured with a wire wheel, and then patina'd so it isn't so shiny. Shiny is stupid. There is also a small spacer of cocobolo that separates the bronze pieces. OAL: 12.5 inches (31.75cm) Blade Length: 7.5 inches (19cm) Let me know what you think! Thanks
  23. A little while back, a good friend asked me to make a saber. The design of the saber was based from combining a Confederate artillery saber with a Spartan sword. After it was finished, he decided he wanted a companion piece for it. He had always been a fan of Jim Bowie. What you see here is the result. The full tang blade was forged out of a leaf spring, and the D guard is brass. The handle scales are slightly charred walnut. The overall length of this knife is 16" with 10 3/4" long blade.
  24. So I started quite a few weeks ago and have been doing a little bit when I can. The last couple of weeks have been tough. Lots of traveling, bronchitis, oh yeah and this thing called a job..... Anyway, I figured I post up some photos before I totally forget what I was trying to do. I was originally going to use the Stanley flat bar and just do a standard single steel blade, but then the wife says to me: "Why are you saving all those bandsaw blades?" And I got to thinking.........So, here is my drawing. All the notes are in the upper right corner about what the materials and design elements will be. Here are the materials. There are 15 used bandsaw blades for my porta-bandsaw. Typical blades you buy at Home Depot. Also from HD is a piece of 1x4 red oak with some cool looking grain, the flat bar, and a 4 ft stick of #5 rebar. At Ace Hardware I got the 5/64" music wire, 1/16" brass rod, and a small sheet of 16 gauge carbon steel. OK, so I didn't really BUY that at Ace, but I could have. It's just that we buy that stuff in 4 ft by 8 ft sheets and I happen to have half a sheet in the shop so......whatever. Please don't ask why the rods look pre-twisted, they are not. It's just a funky camera thing. Then the hard part. I needed a piece of white bone for the spacer. After digging through the dog chews at the local feed store/pet supply I found one that might work. Oh yeah let's not forget the sheet of white construction paper from the CVS pharmacy in the school supplies section. If anyone thinks that CVS is not on our "approved vendor list", let me know and I'll leave that bit out. So I took the band saw blades and cut them into pieces. Now I have 120 short pieces of steel roughly .06" thick, .5" wide, and about 5-1/2 inches long. (photo taken after the heating) These blades are covered with some sort of lubricant coating that could really Jack up the forge welding. So, I heated them up in the forge to burn that stuff off and after several hours of wire wheel work, put them in the drill press vice to prep for the forge weld. Weld the ends and attach handles. Then into the diesel fuel, forge, and press. (or is that presto?) This photo was taken after I ground one face off to remove the teeth and see if the welds took. Tomorrow I go to Tucson for the gem & mineral show. I am showing a buddy of mine how to make Damascus on Sunday (so that video of the press doing hot work should be ready by Monday night). I might have some time Sunday night to do more on the KITH project, but don't bet on it. Probably next weekend.
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