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Found 88 results

  1. I am about to finish up a master's degree in physiology, after which I will be moving to start dental school. Because of this I won't have space for a workshop and likely won't have the time for knife making, so I decided to work hard to finish these up before the move. A kitchen set for my parents. All triple-quenched high-carbon damascus, mokume bolsters, and snakewood handles. Hope you enjoy.
  2. After a long hiatus of moving and trying to get the new farm up and running, I finally got the new shop partially set up and started making some knives. Took three years but hopefully will be steady now. Thought I would post a few of my favorites from this set. I kept a log of hours on this set of 15 knives and was amazed how long it takes me to make the Damascus, make the mokume, make the pins, stabilize the wood and then make the blades. Now its on to sheaths. Apologies for the poor photography, all of the knives are coated with gun grease so sometimes looks like scratches on bolsters etc. The copper in the mokume should darken over time and make the pattern much more obvious. The woods used are ebony, bocote, buckeye, mesquite, laurel, wenge and mahogany. All of the Damascus is 1095 and 15N20. I have been making some long Damascus billits (up to 6 feet). If anyone interested in seeing those let me know. I resized images and hopefully have them attached correctly. Not sure if its better to insert into post or leave as attachments Thanks Matt
  3. Hi !! These time I want to show you my latest project in collaboration with "CICHY Knives". My job was to make forgewelding. The razor will be a reward in the shaving tournament in Poland (https://www.najlepszypolskigolibroda.com/) Hope you will enjoy
  4. Is there a means of making a reasonable canister if you don't have access to a welder? For that matter. Has anyone done a canister of strictly powdered mix steel? Ex: 1095 and W1. With different ratios? I am just trying to understand what the range of possibilities are. I don't want to waste time/material trying things that have already proven to be a flop.
  5. Hey folks! This is my introduction post. I've been reading the forum for a couple of years now, and the amount of helpful, obscure and esoteric information I've dug up from past years is just astonishing. It's been such a help, so thank you everyone who contributes here. A little bit about me: 29, forged my first blade a little over three years ago. I quit my job 2 years ago to pursue this skill/addiction full time, and have not looked back since. I live and work on a little acreage surrounded by tall trees in the country at the base of the Washington state peninsula. I tend to be a bit long winded on forums, so please prepare yourself in advance, there may be some tangents. Also, won an episode of forged in fire (S5E7) Polish Karabela, which has been a somewhat helpful feather to wear in my mohawk. I don't want to rest my laurels on a tv show, but it was helpful in getting me where I am currently. Without further ado, my Peshkabz. This is loosely based off of an antique Afghani blade I found online. I've found these blades to be fascinating for some time. I particularly love the T spines, and also how purpose driven they are. It's a weapon. Can you cut your dinner with it? sure, why not, but its primary use is stabbing through armor, bones, and flesh. Blade length:8”Overall length:13.5”Blade width at widest point: 1.25”Weight: 6.75 oz/189 GWeight with sheath: 9.75 Oz/271 GBlade steel: Multibar Damascus of L6 and 1080. Handle: African Blackwood, leather spacers, multibar damascus pommel with peened over hidden tang. Sheath: form fitting tooled, dyed cow leather. Hand stitched and conditioned with water resistant oils. I had a ton of fun making this thing. I had been making a lot of chef's knives, and needed to make a weapon to refresh my soul. The steel is 4, 16 layer loose twist bars, alternating directions. I've also really been enjoying working on my integral bolster skillset. The first roughly 40% of the spine was forged in to a T profile, for rigidity and strength. The remaining 60% ish is a stretched diamond. Originally, the entire spine was a T, but I ended up spending the better part of a day stabbing steel, leather, cinderblocks, chainmail, bones etc. and adjusting the geometry until it performed how I wanted it to. Before making it pretty, I conducted the following tests with the geometry as you see in these pics. -Hammered through a cinder block - stabbed part way through 3/4" of leather. Not as much penetration as I wanted. It did a 1/2" fine, but I got cocky and 3/4" defeated me. -Chopped through a cow femur -stabbed through an elk shoulder blade -Achieved 2" of penetration and opened a roughly 1.5" wide hole in a piece of chainmail strapped to a folded up hoodie. It did not sustain any tip or edge damage through this process, but did pick up a slight warp near the tip that I was able to coax out with not too much trouble. Fullers for Days! these were an interesting challenge, and some times a huge PITA. Especially the transition on to the bolster, and the blended triangle thing near the tip. All of this was ground freehand on a 1/2" contact wheel. 4 fullers in total, they have a central ridge between each set, and eventually blend in to a single sort of triangular shape closer to the tip. It's sort of hard to see with the etch, so here's a picture of it rough ground for reference. The spine fullers run all the way up the bolsters, down the handle and end at the pommel. This was purely for fun, but the handle fullers do feel quite comfortable. The Pommel. A scrap piece of multibar that I annealed and then threaded before hardening. The base of the tang was a bolt I welded on to the tang prior to quenching. Originally I annealed the tang, threaded it, and was in process of getting it to fit properly, when I managed to shear it while twisting. First experience tapping and dieing, definitely a learning experience. Anyways, the bolt eventually got sanded down and peened over during glue up. The texturing is achieved with some careful work on that same 1/2" contact wheel. The Sheath: I also made the sheath, I try to make a cohesive aesthetic flow between blade, handle and sheath. and since CLEARLY THERE WEREN'T ENOUGH FULLERS, the sheath also looks fullered. It started as veg tan, tooled, glued sandwich spacers, drilled holes, stitched, dyed, then used leather conditioning rub to shape and smooth everything, and mold the sheath to the knife. Aaaaaaand that's a wrap. Thanks for taking time to check this out, I'd love some feedback/constructive criticism on it. I look forward to getting more involved in this community. Victory through fire and steel! -Ethan Kempf www.kempfforge.com
  6. This was done for a restaurant here in Louisville called Mirin, an amazing ramen house where everything is made from scratch. It is high carbon damascus with a flat grind and differential hardening. The hamon is pretty high up but the transition can be seen as the etch fades closer to the forge mark and on the last picture in the same area. The blade has a solid distal taper and is the lightest knife I have made by size. The handle is bloodwood with a mosaic pin and a nickel/copper mokume gane bolster. The grain on the mokume is very tight and can barely be seen in person along the side, but it can be seen on the flat in the first picture. Feedback welcome.
  7. 4.5" blade 15N20 1088 steels 9.25 OAL Fossil walrus scales Damascus bolsters Yup, I still make stuff like this...just not that often.
  8. This piece has been around for some time now. It found it's way back to my shop for some minor cosmetic uplift and a scabbard. It had never been photographed or shown before now. Blade 7.5" 11" OAL Hollow ground 15N20 and 1088 steels African Blackwood carved hilt Pattern welded fittings
  9. Blade Length 12.5" OAL 17" Steel 15N20 1088 Damascus bolsters, file worked spine Bocote scales.
  10. My end of a trade with a friend. We have done a lot of blacksmithing together and wanted a piece of each other's work (especially now that we live very far apart). So we decided to each make a knife for the other. He designed the handle carving to have urnes period viking style hawk and deer. It is a bit difficult to see the carving in the handle as the grain in the burl tends to hide it. This is a replacement for his everyday carry knife that broke, so it is a fairly simple blade that should be pretty useful for mostly anything. His original design sketch for the handle The final result
  11. Let me present Veðrfölnir - named after the hawk with the same name, which sits atop Yggdrasil - the world tree. Description - blade: The blade is made from three bars of folded and twisted steel. Two bars are made from railroad steel from the Numedal Railroad here in Numedal, while the bar for the edge is made from Farriers rasps mixed with 15n20 steel. Hardness at edge: 58 HRC Description - handle: The handle is made from stabilized grey Maple, Holly, Brass, white vulcanized fiber as well as mammoth ivory which is between 10 000 - 30 000 years old. The handle is engraved with Elder Futhark runes, written in English. The text reads: "Better to die with Honor, than live with Shame" followed by owners name and surname initial. The engravings has been filled in with ashes. Description - sheath: The sheath is in vegetable tanned leather with certain engravings, stitched using grey tiger thread and saddle makers stitches. Stained in antique black leather stain and treated with antique leather fat. Any comments, input, critique and suggestions are as always - very welcome. :) Sincerely, Alveprins.
  12. A recent commission, the blade is a tiled end grain w's pattern with a 340 layer twist edge, the guard and spaced are also 340 layer Damascus and the pommel is a single tile of the mosaic pattern. there are 7 carnelians set in the hilt and scabbard the handle is cord and leather wrapped and the scabbard felt lined popular with a leather wrap and steel fittings it is set for a left hand carry, as this was ordered as a companion to the falchion I made a few years ago. Like the falchion this is a full take down, and includes a damascus wrench with a damascus skull bead to take it apart. enjoy!
  13. Hey there from the home of the Lederhosen! Just recently finished this knife as a gift for a good fellow servicemember of mine (yup...this one here is part of the German Armed Forces) who left us now to another post. The steel is some 1095 and 15N20 damascus. The hardware is stainless. Handle and the coating of the blade itself is carbon fiber. As always i have to excuse for my bad english my lousy footage my even worse editing and pretty much everything!!! Comments and criticism are very welcome! ...although some honey spreading would be better.... Also it would be very cool if you'd check out my other videos...but hey...it's just me...
  14. First part of my new project... A little (meant to be)EDC but for shure with my fancy custom touch. The steel i'm using is some basic damascus out of 1095 and 15n20. For the handle i decided to go for some carbon fiber. And because this is not difficult enough i thought...hey...why not slamming some of this carbon fiber onto the blade itself so you will get a rad transition between the carbon fiber and the damascus...!!! Holy lord, this has been a stupid idea... As always i have to apologize for the bad quality and also for my bad english! Especially in this episode i've been really hammered and in this state me 'ol brainy no worky... I hope maybe one or two will enjoy it nonetheless... Leave some comments if you like and it would be this little Krauts pleasure if you would also have a look at my channel!!!
  15. ok so I thought I would post a few pictures this time so that if it goes wrong (again) it may help some others... here are the first stages in pictures... 1075 and 15n20 rounding off the edges. my power hammer needs more power for this jig through, but it seems to have worked.
  16. I'm new at forging. I've forged a couple camp style blades. I'm starting on a Viking Seax and my question is....is it possible to forge a Damascus blade without a power hammer? Is it doable with a hammer and alot of will power?
  17. Here is a camp chopper knife I made from a 12 layer Damascus billet I made from 4 layers each of 1095, 1084, and 15N20 steels. I just did an edge quench on this. The handle is made from stabilized walnut, with copper pins. Knife is very well balanced, straight, and feels light in the hands. It's kind of like a Kukri, but not quite. It's very sharp and chops great. I chopped up a piece of hard Eucalyptus branch with it and it chopped very well, and didn't loose it's edge at all, and would still slice paper and shave hair afterwards. I left some imperfections in it to give it an older, hand forged look. This is the 6'th knife I have made.
  18. So I'm finishing my first multi bar knife, an integral chef i'm pretty happy with considering it has taken 5 tries to get there (5 forging tries, 3 handles...). I etched it three times in ferric and thought the contrast wasn't to my liking, so decided to try out instant coffee etching. I first tried it out on a former, smaller knife i had, and absolutely loved it, so in went my new knife, as well as all the others I had. Coffee etching rules!! Only one problem: Where before i had a not so contrast-ful but clean pattern, I end up with a good contrast, but lines have appeared on one side of the knife. all the other blades came out great, but not my latest, as luck would have it... any idea why? Picture attached!
  19. Help! Newbie possibly in over his head A good co-worker of mine passed on to me a handful of steel rods. I "spark" tested them and was content with the results. I lack welding equipment so I improvised by using rebar tie wire and wrapping it in twisted knots. It's more to hold in place than anything. Tossed newly wrapped wad of 1/4" steel rods in my home made charcoal forge and heated that bad boy up. I tried to simply forge weld the ends but to no avail. Boraxed it to hell and back and re heated. Now to the over my head part.....I through the wad into the vise and started twisting them into a cable looking...thing. I've heated till it started to spark and continued to slap it with my 4lb hammer to no avail. So bear in mind: newb! Minimal equipment, lots of ambition, and willing to listen and try. Thanks for any input.
  20. Hi, I'm new to the forum, and to knife making. This is my first post. Thought I would post a pic of the first 3 Damsacus knives I made. These are the 4'th and 5'th knives I have ever made. The two matching knives I made for my parents, and they are made from 1084,1095, and 15N20. They are 64 layers with some raindrop pattern in them. The other knife is 1095, and 15N20, and is only 24 layers. Handles are Cocobolo. The handles on the two matching knives have a partially hidden guard that I came up with as a way to fix a mistake I made. I drilled the forward tang hole too close to the guard and it would have left less than 1/4" of wood if I butted the wood up against the guard. I was afraid that would crack over time, so I wrapped the wood around the guard by cutting it out in a mill. All together I have about 70 hours in the two matching knives. Those two knives were made from the same piece of steel, and the handle scales were all four cut from one piece of wood, then one scale from each pair was used on each knife so they are truly matching knives. I tried to make a cross pattern with the raindrop pattern, but didn't come out the way I planned, so they are hard to see. Hope you like them. Any constructive criticism is welcome as I am learning. I started making knives in September. Thanks for looking!
  21. So, I have a really large pattern welding contract coming up, and I'm working on the final prototype pieces. This set a new record for me today, so I figured sharing would be as good as excuse as any to return to one of the forums that I've neglected for way too long. I can't say what the end product is yet, but trust me, as soon as I can, I will. Today's work was a billet of 1045/1075/15n20. Just a wee tiny thing, it started at 2"x4-3/4"x10" (about 30lbs). This is to date the largest billet I've ever done, and provided that everything works out, I'll only have to do somewhere between 25 and 50 more of them! After the first weld/draw it was down to 3"x1-1/2"x~21" usable That was cut, ground, and re-stacked by 3 for 75 layers and drawn to 2-1/4"x2-3/4"x~13" usable Tomorrow I'll cut, grind, and re-stack this by 2 once more for 150 layers. Then, it will get drawn to 2-1/2" square and get the living bejeezus twisted out of it on the twisting machine I finished building not long ago, dubbed "Screwcifer". Here's a little video of the first "real" test twisting a 2" square billet. screwcifer_first_twist_2_inch.lrv I'm gonna go find some Advil....
  22. Hey all, I know I haven't been around in a while, but it's been crazy here in Dekerville as the shop has been undergoing MASSIVE changes. Change isn't free though, and so I have a bunch of barstock here available for sale. There will be more coming, and I'm also always up for custom orders if you need something special. My shop capabilities have changed dramatically, and so I can now work much larger stock than before, and am doing surface grinding in house now. Feel free to call on me for large projects as I can handle billets up to ~30lbs now. All of my steel comes to you normalized, annealed, and precision ground unless otherwise noted. Note that the etch on this piece is simply to show an idea of the pattern. Contrast should be more pronounced after heat treatment and finishing. Shipping is via USPS flat rate box, and I'm happy to combine multiple orders into one shipment. You pay the shipping, I'll pay the insurance. On to the show! I'll add additional posts to this thread for each available piece. "Pseudorandom" Pattern Welded Steel Billet - .190"x1.25"x14" SOLD! Stock #: 20181017-Random1 This is a .190"x1.25"x14" billet of 1084/15n20 steel in a "Pseudorandom" pattern.
  23. Hi !! I had some problems with my computer, so still i have to make and add my bearded photo. But now i will show you my new knife project. Blade is made of 15n20, 1070 damascus and i try to make handle with some stainless damascus parts. Stainless damascus i made of 304 and 416L (? in my country 4h13 or 1.4034).
  24. These were both for my table at NYCKS, the blades are two differnet patternes of mosaic damascus, we got a new shop mate here at Dragons breath forge, Mereko Maumasi he is a bit of a wizard with mosaic and some of his ideas have infected me. The spidy pattern came about after showing him the parent bar and he had an idea and drew out the pattern..looked so cool I went with it. the shooting star pattern was one i came up with, putting together some things I have been playing with along with some of Marekos methods. Totally looking forward to exploring these ideas further. the spidy pattern is maple with bronze and G10 spacers the shooting star is Koa with nickle silver and G10.
  25. Hey guys, so I've been forging for several years now and just got set up for forge-welding, I read these forums everyday so I have seen a few posts about what type of steels to use, the problem is I'm not gonna drop a ton of money on steels, I'm mostly a scrap hunter. I want to do a damascus blade, I know normally you go with known metals that will offer a high contrast, I have some leaf spring, some mild steel, a massive industrial saw mill blade, several bandsaw blades and files and some stainless. My hope is that some combo of these metals will create a decently vivid contrast will forge welded. Anybody have a suggestion out of those materials? Sorry for the lengthy question, apparently there is wisdom in wine but only rambling and over-explanation in bourbon. Thanks in advance.
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