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Found 14 results

  1. A Sen-Dai is an workbench functioning with wedges to clamp work pieces down or sideways. especially useful for operations like polishing the surfaces of blades. The bench is very easy to build and requires minimal woodworking/blacksmithing skill. something on the level of a weekend project :"P
  2. This was done for a restaurant here in Louisville called Mirin, an amazing ramen house where everything is made from scratch. It is high carbon damascus with a flat grind and differential hardening. The hamon is pretty high up but the transition can be seen as the etch fades closer to the forge mark and on the last picture in the same area. The blade has a solid distal taper and is the lightest knife I have made by size. The handle is bloodwood with a mosaic pin and a nickel/copper mokume gane bolster. The grain on the mokume is very tight and can barely be seen in person along the side, but i
  3. I have not posted in a while I have been busy. Anyways I made this blade for son who wanted something Japanese so I decided to do an East meets West blade with some cheeky pop culture thrown in. My boy is 6 and loves Pokemon so I made some wrought iron menuki poke balls. 1095 differentially heat treated blade 6"ish Wrought iron tsuba and kashira Copper seppa and fuchi which I attempted to chase a little.
  4. This is the second installation in my series of themed tanto, The Yuugure Kotanto. Here's the story: Yuugure means dusk or twilight, and this is what I tried to model the blade after. The saya has a dark black, ishimeji (or "stone") finish with blackened and brushed copper cladding. It reminds me of the night sky when the last orangey hues of the sunset are just beginning to fade away. The copper can appear very dark black or a bright orange depending on the angle it is viewed at, this coupled with the rough texture of the ishimeji creates a really interesting aesthetic. The haba
  5. Haven't posted on here in several years, but I thought this might be a fun blade to jump back on here with. This tanto was made from an Enfield Mark III barrel with a mild steel core forge welded into it. The idea was to mimic the kobuse forge welding scheme used in many Japanese swords. It was kind of an interesting process getting the hot core down the barrel during welding. If I did it over again, I might have done a few things differently in the forge welding process, but it seemed to work out okay. I did a video on my Youtube channel. I can add the link if anybody's interested in s
  6. The Phoenix Art Museum has a current exhibit of Samurai Armor. The exhibition, organized by The Ann & Gabriel Barbier-Mueller Museum in Dallas, Texas, features more than 140 objects of warrior regalia, with full suits of armor, helmets and masks, weapons, horse tack, and other battle gear. It traces the evolution of the distinctive appearance and equipment of the samurai through the centuries and examines the warriors’ history through works of consummate craftsmanship and exquisite design. Dates:March 1, 2017 to July 16, 2017 http://www.phxart.org/Samurai
  7. hey guys just finished this one up Blade: ~5" of tekefu white no. 2 suminigashi. This thing is a laser and tapers down to a needle point. Handle: Wa style featuring black g10, copper and old growth cocobolo PRICE: $450 If you have any questions feel free to comment/inbox me. Thanks for checking it out!
  8. Hey guys just wanted to share what I have been working on. Forged from 5/8" round W1 With a blade of around 6". Blade style is show zukuri. I know tango are generally Hirazukuri but I wanted to change it up a bit. Please tell me what you think and feel free to critique. The blade is in its rough filed state. I also want to mention that I have not started shaping the tang yet. Thanks for checking it out!
  9. This is my First attempt at producing Japanese sword fittings or any sword fittings. Im really enjoying this and welcome any feedback to enrich my journey into a deeper understanding of the art. the following photo was taken of the porous structure after breaking the shibuichi into manageable sizes following is some in progress of forming annealing and rolling the following is tsuba layout cutting and building an edge profile menuki plates pre forming cutting holes in kashira in progress as a whole the bench i work at in disarray layout of undercu
  10. Hey guys as you know I am working on a shirasaya for the tango I forged. I was wondering how the location of the mekugi ana is determined. I understand that it should be located on the 2nd diamond but I am first making a shirasaya and then full mounts. It will be a while before I gather enough cash to purchase the required materials so I don't understand how to determine the location of the hole. Can I use a regular drill bit or is a tapered one preferred? If so what size and where can I buy it? Thanks. -Jeff
  11. Here are two kitchen knives i just finished, a gyuto and a funayuki. Both are forged from a composite bar of 4 alternating twists with a straight laminate edge. They are both symmetrical double grind and full convex with a micro bevel. Here's a link showing some of the making process. Critique and criticism very welcome, it will help me make the next ones better! Gyuto Total length: 395mm Blade length: 250mm Height: 46mm Point of balance: right at choil Weight: 230 grams Thickness after collar: 3mm Full distal taper Funayuki Total length: 280
  12. Found this at a Flea Market for cheap and had to do something to rectify the abuse this beauty has been through. Judging from the damage, this knife has suffered from a lack of care for quite some time... First of all, it was used as a cleaver, going off the way the handle is cracked - Deba knives, incidentally, should NEVER be used in this fashion! Secondly, used to cut stuff it was not intended to cut, going off of the numerous chips in the edge, none of which are too large thank goodness. Deba knives are much harder than western cutlery, and therefore can chip out if used for anything e
  13. Quite often I'm vexed by not being more multilingual. Usually, Google Translate can help, but not in this case. I'm wanting to come up with a signature for my Japanese-themed work that isn't my usual maker's mark, but rather a chiseled signature referencing the Tidewater Forge. I know there will be no exact translation of this, but I'm hoping something poetic like "fire near the sea" or even "forge by the ocean", or some similar meaningful variant can be found. I don't just want to carve "fire" and "ocean" next to each other, because that's not what I'm trying to evoke, but I'm simply not
  14. I have no idea where to post this. If any of the moderators would like to move it, feel free. I was visiting a friend last week and he pointed out his Del Cheapo Daisho on display in his office. He admited they were not that great. Then from behind the office door, he brought out his other katana. He told me his father paid 30.00 for it in a pawn shop, but other than that, he didn't know much about it. I examined it, and the more I looked, the more I liked. It's a typical size, fairly thick blade, folded steel, and a genuine hamon. Real ray skin and leather wrapping on the tsuka. With
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