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Blade length: 11 in Overall length: 16 3/4 Materials: 1095 steel; differential heat treat, brazilian cherry, brass bolster and pin Asking $350

Hello! I am new to the knife making world and am trying my hand at some new steel. I came across a plow wear blade I had laying around that I'd love to turn into a few knifes maybe a hatchet or two. I reached out to the company that makes the blade (unfortunately they don't make the specific one anymore) but they told me that the steel used is 7 Gauge HRPO steel Grade 50. They didn't specify what type of steel other that what I already stated. I feel dumb asking if this is potentially good steel to work with for a blade or not, but I cannot seem to find any answers online anywhere else. If this steel won't hold a good edge or won't harden as much as it should to hold an edge my plan is to make a set of tongs or two.

Alright, so December 2019 I forged a fork for my wife (link HERE) and in 2020 I was suppose to get her a matching knife.. Now, time ran away from me - and I weren't able to finish it until now- but now I have! The steel is 15n20 and.. something - I don't remember... I decided to practice some more inlay, doing some 0,5mm and 1,0mm wire inlay into the "bolster" and heart. Made some use of my new Lindsay Bench Jewel Rotary Tool along with my newly acquired super small FG 1/4 dentist burs. (undercutting 0,5mm grooves is a b*tch... I mean - challenge! ) (even had to grind of the 0,5mm head, and sharpen a 0,2mm point for the undercuts... ) Alright - so on that note - Peace out, and I'm off to sharpen this little toothpick, and we'll see how it cuts the potatoes and baked vegetables. Sincerely, Alveprins.

Hey everyone. I am new to this forum. My name is Blake and I am a sculptor artist who specializes in recycled and strange materials. I have recently been intrigued with knife making and decided to put a bit of a spin on it for my first knife. I wanted to create a carved handle that replicated a shark. Now you may be thinking "how do you hold it with the fin"? I can actually hold the knife fairly comfortable with the fin resting right in front of my thumb and pointer finger. With that being said, this knife is more of a "show" knife than actual use. As for the blade, I used a old file and I was un-able to heat treat because I do not know anybody in my area that has a forge. I was sure to try and keep the file cool as I ground and cut it. If anybody knows someone with a forge near Fresno CA I would love to connect! Anyways, Just wanted to share and hope you guys like it! I also have a FULL TIMELAPSE video on the entire process of this build. Link below! Check it out if you have a chance. I would love to hear what you guys think. Thank you! Th

I finally finished the seax knife using the first puck of high carbon hearth steel I had made: It's a very simple shape using a brass bolster and curely maple handle. Here is a close up look of the blade to bolster transition: To be honest, I am not a really good knife maker as fit and finish is not something I pay a lot of attention to. There will be a video on my Youtube channel tomorrow that goes through all the steps with occasional quirk comments on my knife making philosophy. Let me know what you think Niels.

A friend of mine is getting married, so I told him I was going to make him something out of metal. A few months pass and I haven't decided what it'll be yet - luckily he makes a suggestion. He's a big Liam Hoffman fan, and he likes his Jaegers, but he wants an EDC size. So here she is. 3" blade, 6" overall. Cocobolo handle!

Dear All, These Anglo Saxon inspired seaxes are finally finished for my wedding two months hence! Some of the WIP (before I broke my camera and had to push onwards) is on this thread: Enjoy! Comments and Criticism gratefully received. I have learnt a heck of a lot on this build, if I were to be making just one I am sure I could have done a much better job of it. However, since there were ten.... yes ten.... with a definite deadline I struggled to spend the extra hundred hours on the sheath required per piece! All in all, I'm happy with them and I'm sure their new owners will be too. A huge amount of thanks must go to Sam Ecroyd, without whom this would not have been possible! Cheers, James P.S. Sorry about the bits of stuff on the blades, didn't realise there was dust on them until I was editing!

I am happy to finally show off the economy custom chopper series we've been working on the past six months! The blades are all 80CrV2 high carbon tool steel forged to shape, rough ground, and heat treated by yours truly; then final ground and assembled by Justin Kirck, who also made the leather sheathes. Handle materials include stabilized burls, hybrids, micartas, and hardwoods. While this isn't the completed set, the choppers here are great representation of the fun materials we got to play with. More collaborations are on the horizon, I will keep yall in the loop! TheoRockNazz.com - JustinTheBlacksmith.com

Dear Blade Brethren, Mr Ecroyd and I have been working on a project now for some time and we have finally got to the stage that we have something to show you for our toil, blood and tears. I am getting married next year (Mr Loose is making my ring ) and I decided all the best men, ushers and fathers needed wedding knives. We sat down and, true to form, we decided to attempt something ridiculous. This is obviously very similar to the flame edge patterning Dave Stevens showed on Arctic fire and Mick Maxen's explosion mosaics. The plan: Blades: Serpented two bar interrupted twist spine, Flame edge with 'Brownian motion' smoke above it Fittings: Cast bronze chape and pommel, celtic/norse love-themed knotwork Handles: Choice of wood made by the receiver of the knife (Likely wild mango/bubinga/cocobolo/coolibah burr) Sheathes: Veg tan leather with electroetched makers mark and bronze/brass fittings This was the plan for the blade patterning: I have made a few videos of the process thus far which will be linked at the bottom of this post. I started with 18 layers of 15N20 and 1095, then a massive block of 20 layers of 1095 with a strip of EN42J in the middle, welded on top of the stack. This was welded and elongated, resulting in this pattern on the end of the bar: This was then stacked at 90 degrees to the original orientation and re-welded, resulting in this pattern on the end of the bar: This was then again stacked and welded, resulting in much tighter flames: Finally, this was stacked three times and welded. After this, the billet was allowed to cool very slowly from critical temperature to make it as soft as possible, allowing it to be cut into slices. Another billet was then prepared, 18 layers of 15N20 and 1095, welded and elongated, then twisted alternately one way and then the next. This was split into two and then welded together inside two bars of EN8 plain carbon steel. The resulting bar was cut into a zig-zag and forged back to bar stock, causing undulation of the central two alternating twist bars. The slices of the flame edge bar were then forged into 1cm thick bars: These were then married up to their serpent bar and welded, then drawn out to the correct thickness for forging the knives. It was attempted to elongate them as little as possible, to avoid elongating the twist too far, however the flame edge bar needed elongating to unbunch the pattern. A compromise had to be made. These bars were then forged into two knives each and normalised before grinding. After a huge amount of grinding, normalising, quenching, grinding again and then polishing, the knives were etched and taken to a final polish at 1200 grit. I made a machine I named the 'Hand-sand-o-matic 2000' to assist with polishing but I think it will be more useful when time is not such an issue as most of these were polished with A45 trizact belts, as there was no plunge line. Thank you for looking, any comments and criticisms are as always welcomed. Video links to follow to some horrifically amateurishly edited videos! I will post more as we progress with the casting, handling and sheathing. Cheers, James and Sam

Decided to take a crack at making a seax after seeing so many great examples. Got some really good quality high carbon steel lawnmower blades from the local power equipment dealer who was cleaning out his old inventory. Great guy gave me more blades than I can use in a year... lots of material. My 13-year-old son got excited about it so I got him involved in the initial shaping. Great to have a second set of arms swinging the hammer when trying to take a 4-inch wide piece of steel down by about half. Took a while to get the blade right and then a lot of file work to get the fuller in right. Had to switch to a vertical quench tube because by normal knife trough was not long enough... also this seax stretched the limits of my little forge. Guess its time to build a bigger one. Anyway, used reclaimed copper from an old broken extension cord to make the disks for the guard and pommel and used black walnut trimmed from two logs my friend at the power equipment shop donated to my cause. Peening went much better this time... although I'm going to go out and get a peening hammer now. A while back I decided to try making sheaths for my knives and had made two so far, so I figured the Seax needed one also. After scrounging around and finding that I did in fact have a piece of leather large enough, I boiled, shaped and stitched away... and here it is: Sewing is still not my thing and I really need to plan out better where I'm using my clamps so I don't get all those extra marks, but... it's only #3. Still have to put grommets in the two tabs and forge some rings to connect with a belt. Still have to do the final sharpening and I'm considering carving a pattern into the handle as it feel like it could twist a bit in the hand.

Hello everybody! A few lovely knives for outdoor activities, they feel really light feel in the hand! Steel: 1070 high carbon steel Dimensions:Overall lenght: 25 cm - 9.8''Blade lenght: 13 cm - 5.11''Blade widght: 3.3 cm - 1.29''Blade thickness: 4mm - 0.157 inchesHandle lenght: 11.5 cm - 4.5''Weight: 180 grams - 6.34 ounches Handle material: Burned oak wood with aluminum pins and lanyard tube. One of them does not have a burned handle but oak wood as it is. Differentially heat treated by drawing back the spine with a torch. Finished with ferric chloride. They come with a leather sheath. Feel free to ask me anything via comment or pm. Asking price: 200$/knife Free international shipping with priority mail and a tracking number.Via PayPal.

UPDATE-Currently running this through my Instagram, but figured some people here may be interested as well. RAFFLE $25 Rules: Each ticket is $25, if you get 3 or more tickets they are $20 a piece. Limit of 50 total tickets To enter, send your payment through PayPal (friends and family only) to kevinkleinblade@gmail.com Include the message May 2018 and your Instagram handle, please follow up with a DM.  Numbers get assigned in the order I recieve payments. Raffle runs through May 15th when I'll pick a winner using an online random number generator. Shipping included within CONUS. Blade: 8.75" edge length, 13.75" OAL. Rosewood handle, silver spacer, silver pin.  Sheath: cow hide body, ostrich leg inlay, shark skin back. Good luck! PS, If your number is not picked, your payment will be applied to a future purchase. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Hey there from the home of the Lederhosen! Just recently finished this knife as a gift for a good fellow servicemember of mine (yup...this one here is part of the German Armed Forces) who left us now to another post. The steel is some 1095 and 15N20 damascus. The hardware is stainless. Handle and the coating of the blade itself is carbon fiber. As always i have to excuse for my bad english my lousy footage my even worse editing and pretty much everything!!! Comments and criticism are very welcome! ...although some honey spreading would be better.... Also it would be very cool if you'd check out my other videos...but hey...it's just me...

A simple design yet proven over the time! Steel: O1 tool steel Overall lenght: 30 cm - 11.81 inches Blade lenght: 17 cm - 6.69 inches Blade height: 3 cm - 1.18 inches Thickness: 6mm - 0.236 inches Heat treated using clay at the spine of the knife to achieve a differential heat treatment. The handle is made with brass pommel and guard. Oak wood with leather spacers and deer antler. The pommel and the guard have a textured satin finish. The handle is secured with epoxy and pinned at the end of the tang. It comes with a simple leather sheath. I ship world wide. FREE SHIPPING! Asking price: SOLD Payment via paypal.

Something different here. Customers order...a chisel knife! Finally got the last part edited...like if you could call that editing... Please excuse my bad footage...can't afford a better camera now... Please excuse my bad english...just a little Kraut here... Please excuse...pretty much everything...

Alrighty, gotta get these off my hands. [br]Three blanks I made, one a smallsword or long dagger (along the lines of needle from Game of Thrones, this one has both a guard and pommel) And one my interpretation of the Uruk Hai scimitar from the Lord of the rings, with a tang set up for either a katana style grip or a knife style handle. Lastly is a knife, with pin holes and lightening holes already drilled. [br]Knife measures 11.5 inches overall, cleaver sword measures 31 overall, and the smallsword thing measures just under 29 inches overall. [br][br]35 for the small sword, 25 for the knife blade, 35 for the uruk hai chopper, or 75 for all three. Steel is 1075. Untempered. Buyer pays shipping.. [br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br][br]

Nóż wędkarski , stal nierdzewna, długość ostrza 145 mm, długość całkowita 260 mm, rączka mosiężna, kość wielbłąda, G10, heban, orzech.

Hi all just want to show you my second ever knife. I have a very active mind and when it comes to deciding what I would like to make the list is just too long for me to choose, so I decided to make knives as gifts for family and friends. The first of which is this one. My friend has just gone out to do his second stint in south Africa working with an anti-poaching unit to protect rhinos and elephants. He was looking for a nice knife to take with him and I told him I would make him one. After a short discussion on what he wanted ( basically leaving it up to me) I drew a few designs and he picked his favourite. Here it is a Bowie fighter, 12.5" overall, 8.5" blade forged from land rover leaf spring and hand sanded to 400grit satin finish. Brass guard, wild African olive wood handle and a brass/turquoise pin. The knife taught me an extremely large amount, the learning curve was like climbing a shear cliff face but I took it in individual steps instead of thinking about the process as a whole too much after the design phase. Hope you like it any feedback is welcome as I want to know what I can do better next time.

This is a reproduction of an antenna hilted knife from the urnfield period. It's based on an original found in Csóka, Serbia. It's 20cm long, made from 12% tin bronze and with a workhardened edge. I previously cast these in a soapstone mould. The mould was lost, so I made a model from one of the casts, where I had to undo the curve and thicken up the edge, so that I could cast them again and hammer them to the correct shape after casting.

Hey guys, not exactly a "newbie", but I am finding zero information on how to create a napped finish on a blade; similar to how a flint knife appears. I have seen some work on here with a few examples but can't seem to find any details on how to achieve this result. Any advice you guys might have would be great thanks.

I already asked about the tang and tip of a knife and I'm beginning to get the hang of that, but one issue I have now are the bevels of a knife. I understand it's about holding the knife at an angle half of the angle of your strikes, like if you hit straight down hold the knife at 45 degrees so both ends flatten the same. Obviously this just takes practice but does anybody have any tips or video links? Thanks

So as a beginner with a very very cheap workshop, I don't really have the tools to make hidden tangs yet, as I don't have money or space for a drill press yet. Because of this I'm stuck to scales, which means I have to shape my tangs into what the handle will eventually look like. My issue is that my steel I use is thick and when I finish my blade and start my tang, the area for my tang is usually heavier, making the blade a bad balance. So I'm basically stuck with drawing out my tang to eventually have a flatter material. When I draw out my tang, how do I make sure that the metal for the tang stays through the midpoint of the knife so that when I eventually flatten the tang, part of it doesn't protrude either above or below the blade? I know this seems like kind of a stupid and obvious question, but it was an issue with one knife I made and I want to make sure I don't make this mistake again!

Heya guys, You know what time it is! Let me know if any of these blanks interest you and we'll get them into your hands. 80CrV2, already heat treated. Has a fun lanyard hole/loop that'll provide an extra challenge. A customer already has their eye on this one - I would need you to finish it and slap my provided micarta on. We will agree on how to divide profits privately. Email at TheoRockNazz@gmail.com. TheoRockNazz.com 1095 fighter, already heat treated. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics) 80CrV2 cleaver/chopper... clopper?..cheaver? Already head treated. Has inverted distal taper. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics) 1095 thick chef's knife, heat treated with temper line. Can be bought outright or percentage of final sales (email for specifics)

For the desk top warrior ;-) Very thin 4" blade with an overall length of 8.75" Damascus, mokume, ebony, and silver. I will make a simple, but elegant leather cover before sending it out the door. High resolution images, so you can click, then zoom in to get a better look at the damascus and mokume. Price is $850.00 Let me know if you have any questions :-)

Simple little project for sale at $600. Tightly patterned damascus blade with an edge length a hair over 3" with a mokume band transitioning to the African Blackwood handle.