Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Norse'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • Read before you register
    • Forum News
    • New Board Issues
  • New Work
    • Show and Tell
    • Photography
    • Video and Multimedia
    • Knives For Sale
    • Design and Critique
  • Old Work
    • History
    • Old Masters
    • Library
  • Forge Work
    • Hot Work and Bladesmithing
    • Hot Work
    • Bloomers and Buttons
    • Beginners Place
    • Teacher Directory
  • Forges, Tools, Equipment and Materials
    • Tools and Tool Making
  • Finishing, Tips and Tricks
    • Fit and Finish
    • Sheaths and Leatherwork
    • Carving and Applied Arts
    • Shop Safety
    • Non-Ferrous: fittings, alloys, patinas
  • Heat Treating
    • Metallurgy and other enigmas
    • Heat Treating by Alloy
  • Events
    • Events of Interest
  • Discussion
    • The Way
    • Fiery Beards
    • Books, Videos, and other Media
  • Tailgate Sales
    • Tools, Supplies and Materials
  • Hall of Fame
    • Nominations
    • Show and Tell Hall of Fame
    • WIP/Tutorial Hall of Fame
  • Pinned Topics
    • Pinned Show and Tell
    • Pinned Hot Work Topics
    • Pinned Buttons and Bloomers
    • Pinned Tools and Toolmaking
  • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Maker's Mark Registry
    • Marks to be Identified
  • KITH
    • KITH 2011-2019
    • Christmas KITH 2019
    • KITH 2020

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 7 results

  1. Been looking for days and it would seem everybody is lazy and ignorant in this style. I have a leather lace about a 15th of an inch thick by a quarter inch thick. I'd like to do a wrap around the hilt without using glue,rivets,screws or any other fastening device other than the leather. I hope somebody on this site can help by either demonstration or posting a link to a similar form of education on the matter.I have seen it done before and I have done it myself but i'd like to know more than one way of doing so. I currently have no sword to work on in practise so I am currently using a half inch by quarter inch bar of steel. Best wishes-Nathaniel
  2. Here's my Norse reenactment getup, It's about 80% made by me. Its the best I can do so far. The tunic, undertunic, belts, buckles, pouch(deerskin), leg wrappings (are a WiP), knife sheath(lambskin or deerskin sewn inside out and reversed it was a pain in the behind), knife, the tiny copper brooch by my collar were all made by me. The overtunic is 100% wool except for the cotton thread stitching, with tablet woven wool trim I had ordered. Under tunic is undyed linen Pants are linen, I only dyed them. shoes also bought(I gave up on trying to make them) the sword is just some production one I own and rehilted. you may ignore it. And a big thanks to my friend Christine who took the photos for me. (I should have taken off that bloody date and time option on the camera gahhh!)
  3. According to the Örvar-Odds saga, Hafgufa was the mother of all sea monsters and fed on whales, ships, men, and anything it could catch. Hafgufa was said to have lived underwater, and when the tide was low at night, her nose and head would rise out of the water. The only physical description provided in the saga is the nose sticking out of the water, which was mistaken for two massive rocks rising from the sea. Source: Wikipedia Blade: 5.625″ Wrought Iron Spine, 1095/15N20 Twist, 1095 Edge This blade was forged to feel like a sea creature. The middle bar is oddly twisted to look like tentacles reaching out through the tides of the ocean just under the surface of the sea, which is represented by rippled wrought iron. The point of the blade is structured to feel like the side profile of a ship with a gentle curve upward to a stable deck. Handle: 4.25″ Wrought Iron, Extinct Sea Cow Rib Bone, Copper Pin The handle is hand carved from extinct sea cow bone. The carving is of kraken tentacles reaching upward and grasping at the copper pin, which much like a sail on a ship is the main element that can rip the piece apart. The guard is also wrought iron and has the word, “Kraken” carved into in on both sides in runes. Overall: 10″ Spine: .125″ through break POB: center of the guard Check my ETSY store for availability. Check out the build pics here: http://rashystreakers.tumblr.com/tagged/kraken%20seax
  4. I have been commissioned to make a sax for a person who plays in the SCA. His persona is that of a Rus trader and he wanted something sufficiently "viking" and with a bear theme. So... The requirements are about 7" in the blade, dark wood handle of a wood native to that region of the world, "Gotland" style sheath and, a bear theme. He also mentioned that he is hard on knives and has broken several in the past. After a bit of back and forth we settled on a Borre style of art for the fittings and sheath. The first thing I did was look for Norse bear motifs. There are not many. The first one I found was this illustration of a "grave marker" found in Brampton, England and dated to the 6th Century. Not quite from the area I was looking for, wrong area and time. Then I found a photograph of bear shaped "grave markers" from Yorkshire, England also dated to the 6th Century. One of them looks like the illustration. Next were a pair of carved jet bears, also from Yorkshire, and dated to the 8th Century. Closer in time. I just was not finding what I needed and so I started looking at the art of some other ethnic groups of people that the Rus traders might have had contact with. I found this bear in the Permic style from Finnland. Pretty cool but, not exactly Borre. The Scythians also yielded a bear image. Somewhere in there I got lucky and stumbled upon this antique for sale. It was listed as a "viking borre style bear heads concave disc mount." Closer but, not sure I could use something like this on a knife. Maybe I could use one of the bears heads as a thematic element. Last was this belt mount from Armour and Castings. When I first ran across this image it was on an outdated website that did not give any information on provenence and time frame. Later on I found the newer website where it is listed as being from Iskorosten, Russia and dating from the 10th century. At last, something from exactly the right place and time. ~Bruce~
  5. Thought I would share this recently finished project with you all. ' I forged the blade in late summer from 5160 , hand filed to finish. I suppose it could be classified as a seax, although the upswept blade profile is not what is viewed as being a 'traditional' seax shape.Plenty of historical finds to validate the shape ,though. Fittings are wrought iron, and the handle is blackened chestnut. Sheath was a challenge ,I hadn't tried repousse before, so it took a few tries to get a result that was at least presentable. And please don't ask me about peening those rivets in between the repousse lines. Sanity is slowly coming back now. The project was not without mistakes and compromises, but I was fairly satisfied with how the whole set ended up.... one thing I do regret is not getting much character out of the wrought. It ended up just looking like mild steel. I'd love to hear what you all think.
  6. Here is one I just finished up, minus sheath. I'm calling it Splinter and it's your basic utility knife, the blade was forged from 1095 and 15N20, the handle is made from copper, maple burl, leather, and zyrcote. Thanks for looking. -Robert Burns
  7. Hey all So this is The Dryad King, and i have only just started making him Uploaded with ImageShack.us This is my first Damascus blade. I have started welding the first weld on the billet with a custom hydraulic press I made. Jee, it is much harder than i thought but I totally love it. Here in this forum I will be posting my progress and my questions since I am a newbie and you guys are total nerd-heads! So, here you go, first photos: 17 layers to begin with: And now for the Problems 1) Alright the first thing is that the two outer layers after the first welding process, are nearly gone! (you can observe that on the last photo, these two (top and bottom) where heated much more quickly than the rest of the billet, they were already red hot when the rest of the steel was still black. Despite the fact that i fluxed regularly, for some reason the heat ate them up. those to were 1095 steel btw. 2) the second problem so far is that, as I observed, the middle layers of the billet don;t get squished much when I press them, I checked their width, and it is about the same as the original pieces of steel. It seems to me that only the outer layers of the billet get squished.Any idea why ? Guys any recommendations on those two problems or anything else you observed from the photos will be a big help for me . I hope you are all well and happy! Labros
×
×
  • Create New...