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Showing results for tags 'Propane'.
Found 16 results
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Started work on this 20lbs propane tank yesterday.
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Good afternoon, this may sound like a stupid question, but does anyone use brake lines to run propane for their forges? I found a set of burners for sale on ebay, but he says to use brake lines to run the propane...
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Good afternoon everyone, the store that I purchase my refractory from does custom casting of refractories, and after talking to one of the employees there came up with the idea of pre-cast forge liners. Is this the king of thing that people would be interested in? (the more interest, the cheaper it could be since they have to build a mold for the castings) I figure that the kit could include- 1- cast 3000 degree refractory cement cylinder (with a 2"hole centered for the burner) wrapped in 1" kaowool, and sized to slide into a propane cylinder forge 2- 2" thick piece of kaowool sized
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I have a scrap 8" x 24" air tank that I am planning on building into a propane forge with my brother in law this weekend to give to him for his birthday. I have an adjustable propane regulator and the pipes/fittings to make one venturi style burner. I was planning on lining the inside with 2 inches of kaowool and skinning with refractory cement then having a fire brick or two to set the metal on. This would leave a 4" diameter hole in the center of the tank. Here are the two options that I would like an opinion on though since for now I only want to do a single burner setup. Option 1
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Howdy, my name is Mark. I built a propane forge about a year ago. The chamber does not heat properly. It has cold spots and doesn't get the metal as hot as it should. I need to remeasure it, but I'm pretty sure the mouth is 6"x6" with a depth/length of 18". 6" from burner to burner. I used the common ez burner style. 1.25"x.75" reducer. 8" 3/4" pipe with a flared end. For insulation I used 2" soft firebrick. And then it's kiln shelfing on the bottom (3/4" thick) and sides (1/2-5/8" thick). The propane is a high pressure 10psi regulator When I thought the problem was that too much he
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This is my take on propane blower. It takes about 2 hours to make. The big tube is 2" nominal, the small is 1" nominal. The cone between is bought black metal "weld fitting" 2" to 1" and the end is the same thing but just 1" to 1 1/2". The air intake is regulated by flat round cap on piece of 10 mm screw. The jet is again 10 mm screw, which I drilled very nearly through with something like 6 mm hole along -on my lathe and then drilled one side at the end just 1 mm hole. Tunning is very primitive or nonexistent. It runs very well from 1 bar of pressure up, it really shines at 2 bars. Tha
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Good evening everyone, I am getting ready to start a forge build this weekend, the body of the forge will be an 11 gallon compressed air tank ( I only chose this over the 5 gallon because I am hoping to work on some wider pieces that might not fit in the narrower body after insulating) My current plan is -a rectangular door in the rear with angle iron top and bottom so that I can slide a brick in to block the hole. -larger rectangular door on the front, also with angle iron so that I can close most of it off to allow higher temps. -I currently have 2" ceramic wool, 10 x 1/2
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I've been forging with a coal forge for about three months now. although coal forges have an authentic feel and grit to them, I would like to build a propane forge. I though of making one by using fire brick, but if there's a better way, feel free to say so. Q: Where can I buy fire brick? Q: Is there a better alternative?
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I'm hoping this is the correct subforum- Anyway, I've mostly used to coal, but recently I built an insulating brick propane forge. I've noticed that my steel looks a bit burned on the outer, thinner parts after repeated heats. It crinkly like it's being oxidized (I guess it is). The thing is, I'v got it dialed to the point where there are dragon flames just starting to come out the opening. Shouldn't this indicate a reducing atmosphere in the forge, and thus the steel shouldn't be oxidizing? Perhaps? The forge is built with a single forced air burner that is in the center of the fo
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Hello,- I'm working on putting together a forge and am looking at propane regulators. I don't know a ton about this stuff so bear with me. If I get a regulator like this, can I put a gauge down the line from it since there is no port on this particular regulator? How does one add a gauge to line? Can it simply screw into a T-Fitting of some kind? Help me shed some light on this conundrum. Thanks,
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Hello, I did not notice an introduction thread for new members so please move this if it is bothersome. My name is Karl Myers. I am a 25 year-old father of two sons Atticus and Atlus. I live in Franklin, Indiana with my wife Marcia. I am in school for nursing and my wife is a registered nurse. I have always wanted to get into forging, I just never had the money to do a start up. I have bought a small forge. I am shopping for a suitable propane cylinder. I have been looking at 100# tanks. I had 4 tanks for forklifts but learned they are not suitable for my application and have gotten rid of t
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Hi everyone I'm new here but wanted to post my forge build, sorry if this is wrong place. Just lookin for any pointers or advise. Got two one inch layers wool, coated completely with satanite and been re coating one day for last three days. Fired burner few times briefly to help cure. Like I said just looking for any and all comments , ideas, etc. also sorry not the prettiest forge but I'm sure it'll work, used an old cast iron lid that fits perfect lol. I'll post more after its cleaned up. Thanks!
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I am in the process of building my first propane gas forge. The question I have is it necessary to have extra vent to allow more oxygen into the forge? My forge is a square tube 8x8x12 horizontal forge. One end is welded close. The open end has a door on it with a 3x5 opening so that I can place my blades into the forge while it is running. The propane burner will be mounted on the right side 6" from the front of the forge, at a 45 degee angle.
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After finally getting my shop in order to start forging at home, I realized that as I was working the propane pressure was steadily dropping. Whenever I would try to turn the pressure back up, it wouldn't change anything. I had been checking it for leaks a few days prior and it all checked out fine. Any ideas on what I should do?
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Hello Everyone, I am establishing a new shop in Toronto. One of the last things I need to do is run my propane from the bottle outside, to the forge. The propane forge will be outside in a cage, the forge will be roughly 60' away, inside. The burner is a blown burner, I got the idea from Geoff Keyes. My question is how to run the propane from the bottle to the forge, what should the propane run in (rubber or black iron pipe?). What diameter of pipe is needed? Where would pressure valves and other devices be located? Last question, I know this will vary by local but does this
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The attached picture is of my propane tank and the torch I have purchased. The system I am running is a forced air (hair dryer) forge. I have tested it out and it seems to work fine, I just want better efficiency so I can work longer. What I would like to know is what do i need as far as regulators go? Do I need a high pressure reg? Or a low pressure reg? I found a webpage from Don Fogg talking about the setup he recommends, using a high pressure reg at the tank and a low pressure reg with a needle valve and shut off close to the forge. Do I really need the low pressure reg? Or is it a prefer
