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  1. My end of a trade with a friend. We have done a lot of blacksmithing together and wanted a piece of each other's work (especially now that we live very far apart). So we decided to each make a knife for the other. He designed the handle carving to have urnes period viking style hawk and deer. It is a bit difficult to see the carving in the handle as the grain in the burl tends to hide it. This is a replacement for his everyday carry knife that broke, so it is a fairly simple blade that should be pretty useful for mostly anything. His original design sketch for the handle The final
  2. Some of you who attended the Swords through the centuries event last weekend got to see most of these. I've since replaced all my containers with archival safe foam and materials thanks to Mr. Shea donating some scraps of ethafoam he had. It's nothing like Jeff Pringle's collection, but it's my own =) A fellow nearby me who is conserving a viking sword and scabbard pieces recently unearthed let me onto the fact that there's some fairly reasonable priced authentic viking pieces coming out of Estonia and Latvia on ebay right now, and so I've got another couple axe heads coming my way afte
  3. Hi all ! It's my first post on this forum so I wanted to say hello and show you my pattern welded seax which I finished few days ago. Total length 47cm, blade 32cm Width 3,2 cm Maciej Leszczyński - Kuźnia Wilkowo
  4. I finally got another blade out the door. This one was a commission for a very patient customer (Thorvaldr). I guess I'd call it a heavily historical fantasy seax. The blade is Aldo's 1084. It's 10" long, flat grind, 1/4" spine. It does taper ever so slightly from the peak of the spine back to the handle, but it's barely noticeable. The blade has younger futhark runes inlaid in nu gold (15% zinc, 80% copper). On the right side they say "Thorvaldr owns me" and on the left "MHB made me". The customer had his previous seax stolen so maybe have his name inlaid in the blade will deter th
  5. One of my latest ones, big boy blade
  6. Finally got some time in the shop, so I made a sheath and knife inspired by Viking finds from Gotland. The blade is commercial as I don't have a forge where I live at the moment, but I use them as cheap options to practice my fit and finish on handles and sheaths. There are a lot of 'first time' elements in this and there are definitely things I am not happy with, I can see where I lost focus. The handle is from reclaimed Birch, fittings are brass and the suspension ring is bronze. Leather is vegetable tan.
  7. Greetings everyone, I’ve got a commission that has started me down the multi-bar road, so I thought I’d try and do a WIP. The commission is for an anglo-taxon style broken back seax with an 18” or so blade. I decided to do a basic 3 bar blade with wrought iron on the top, a twist in the middle, and high layer count on the bottom: I made my 3 bars, the middle being 36 layers of 15N20 and 1095, and the edge was 432 layer of the same. I tried using hose clamps to hold the bar together and I thought it worked really well. I forged out the blade about 70% of the way
  8. This was a very pleasant commission to work on for me. I could practice a little more of inlaying and the results got better than i could anticipate, even if I have much to evolve in this art. The blade was mostly done by stock removal, but the tip and the tang were forged prior to the grinding. It was made using 1070 steel. The hilt is of a variation of Petersen's type L and it's components are made in mild steel and the inlays are nickel silver. The twisted wires are also nickel silver. It was then oil coated and lightly heated to make it look darker, so the contrast with the coope
  9. Hey everyone, just finished, or finished the rough finish on my "viking" axe, which now looks slightly more like a generic tomahawk sort of. As a beginner with only weeks of experience, I'd call this a major success and boosts my morale for gaining more and more experience. Obviously compared to most work on this forum this is in the range of bad to mediocre, but I'm pretty proud of it. Since I used a new hatchet head for the start, I had a lot of extra steel to work with for a smaller axe, and it was very hard to work out the shape I wanted from it since it needed a lot of modifying, might've
  10. Hey guys, as a beginner, forging for only a few weeks with only a few finished knives, I decided to maybe do a modification rather than a knife from scratch. Can't say it's good so far but after about 30 minutes in day 1 I'd say it's a start! I'd love to hear some honest feedback, how to make it better, and if it's a good start! Please no nasty comments, I'm very new at this and would like critique and not harshness, thanks! I'll continue to post my progress, may take a while to complete! Also, if I sprinkle some borax on the axe before I decide to treat it, will it make it look cleaner? I've
  11. Ok so as I mentioned in my last post I screwed up making a handheld viking style hatchet, so I went to Lowes and picked up a pretty cheap wood handle hatchet. It's not a bad hatchet, but the handle is on there good and I don't really want to ruin the handle or make it unusable incase the other handle can't be fit on. So I was wondering if anybody had suggestions for how I could get this handle out, most likely epoxy used too. Epoxy I could just heat up and soften it, but I have to loosen the wood first. I'm fine with drilling into the handle and patching it up later with glue or something, but
  12. Hello! Some time ago I have started the project of wolf teeth spearhead that Niels Provos had posted, and I discovered that in the middle of process So firstly, I want to show you ready spearhead, and then photos of process of forging step by step. Please enjoy and comment The spearhead's socket is 21cm long and blade is 45cm long and 7cm wide, socket is forge welded from old iron, blade is made of 50HF spring steel and low carbon S235 steel. Each teeth is welded from separate piece of tooth. Firstly , I drew the project in the 1:1 scale with ever
  13. Good evening everyone! This is the latest knife I am making, and I´d like to share the process with you I decided to focus more on making knives as a whole, not only blades. That is not to say I am stopping blades, but I deffinitely want to finish more pieces It all started with me having a blade I really liked, and a piece of curly maple: I really wanted to do something in Urnes style which... I didn´t Somehow I am always drawn to the Ringerike style! In this case, the brooch below, particulary the beast portraited there, caught my eye... And so it began... I am st
  14. Hello! I would like to offer my latest knife. The story if its creation can be followed here: It is a knife with a blade made of four bars - wrought iron, patternwelded rod of 9 layers, wrought iron again and high carbon steel on edge.The handle is ashen, hand-carved in ringerike style, the motif taken and adjusted from an 11th century brooch. At the end of the handle is a wrought iron butt cap and a loop, housing a brass ring decorated with triangles made of punched small 1mm circles. Also, there is a leather strap to make the pulling of the knife easier. The sheath features an an
  15. hey guys this isn't a blade but I thought I might share some of these forged steel strikers I've made. I got an order for some a few days ago and I really enjoyed making them. I made the smaller one for myself and the larger one was part of an order. Tell me what you guys think! -Jeff Fogleboch
  16. Good morrow, fellow smiths. I present for your consideration my first attempt at a small (one-handed) battle axe in the Viking mode. If I did my research right, this should be something like a Petersen type C axe, though I'm not going to try to claim historical accuracy on this one because the eye shape is a tomahawk-style teardrop, and because it's made of one solid chunk of steel. I documented the whole process so that those of you who know more than I do can critique it, and hopefully it will of value to those of you who are looking to get into axe-making. Anyway, without further ado, t
  17. So, I think this is the right place to put this. I found an interesting video on the YouTube channel Shadiversity regarding what we commonly call the "Viking sword," and whether or not that is an acceptable name. No endorsement implied, but I find his logic and proposals interesting, and he puts out some cool videos from time to time. I was curious, as makers, how folks here feel about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wyk2SJw39Z4 Hope I did that link right. First time posting from Chrome.
  18. This is a very special sword for me, as it both ends and starts the year. This was the last blade I quenched at 2016 and the first piece I finished in 2017. So it is kinda different. Forn Hrafn, or Old Raven is made to resemble a humble sword from the beginning of the ninth century Norway. This sword was made by stock removal (not forging, guys) from a piece of 1070 steel. It is heavily inspired on C10560 from Kulturhistorisk Museum from Norway. As I didn't have access to more material about this find, I used some of it's measures and invented others. As you can see on the pictures
  19. Here's my Norse reenactment getup, It's about 80% made by me. Its the best I can do so far. The tunic, undertunic, belts, buckles, pouch(deerskin), leg wrappings (are a WiP), knife sheath(lambskin or deerskin sewn inside out and reversed it was a pain in the behind), knife, the tiny copper brooch by my collar were all made by me. The overtunic is 100% wool except for the cotton thread stitching, with tablet woven wool trim I had ordered. Under tunic is undyed linen Pants are linen, I only dyed them. shoes also bought(I gave up on trying to make them) the sword is just some production
  20. I've been putzing around at bladesmithing now as a hobby for 8 years and I figured it was time to get off my butt and make my first sword. As many people know, I have a fairly large collection of original viking era artifacts, and I love that period and the styles. I figured that for making my first sword it's not that much more work to make it pattern welded than it is to make it monosteel. One sword that I've always loved was the Type K sword in the Universitetets Oldsaksamling, Oslo (C11014) as depicted in Ian Pierce's book. I really like the shape of that blade, long parallel sides wit
  21. Hey, folks. This knife was a real pleasant work to do. Although unexpected, it came out better than I could have imagined. About the blade, it was handforged with a wrought iron spine and a bloom steel edge. The bloom was made by accident when I was trying to produce some shear steel with a wrought iron bar. The iron box in witch the wrought iron was simply melted down and so did the wrought, and then it all became a strange looking bloom with just a little slag from the refractory mantle that melted too. Then I refined it and found a very good amount of carbon in it. After that I covered
  22. Hey guys here is a small Viking axe I just finished. It's made from 1018/W2. This was my first time making an axe and forge welding so it isn't perfect. I have a few delaminations but overall I like it. Tell me what you think and I would appreciate critiques and advice. Thanks!
  23. 3 Fighting axes inspired by the Viking style. Mild steel bodies with bearing race edges forge-welded in. $175 each. Email adriaang66@gmail.com
  24. I have been commissioned to make a sax for a person who plays in the SCA. His persona is that of a Rus trader and he wanted something sufficiently "viking" and with a bear theme. So... The requirements are about 7" in the blade, dark wood handle of a wood native to that region of the world, "Gotland" style sheath and, a bear theme. He also mentioned that he is hard on knives and has broken several in the past. After a bit of back and forth we settled on a Borre style of art for the fittings and sheath. The first thing I did was look for Norse bear motifs. There are not many. Th
  25. this sword was started at our hammer in last Oct (swords through the centuries) I welded up all of the billets and did some of the initial patterning in my demo. I have the sword all most finished at this point, so I will start were it is now and then go back to the beginning... might be a few posts I tried to get photos after each day I worked on the sword. patterning the 19 layer billet 19 layer billet welded to the serpent core, 40 layer edge bar ready to weld to the core billet welded, beginning to forge the blade blade forged to shape along with the second blade I forged from the bi
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